Limited budget, destined for 37s - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San Diego, ca
Age: 31
Posts: 27
Feedback: 0 reviews
Limited budget, destined for 37s

I have a 2014 JKU Sport S. I want to get to 37's. And I want to be able to take it on some moderate trail riding to see the sights and have some fun.
But, with a limited budget and no welding/fab skills, that goal seems so far away.

Can anyone (perhaps with experience in the same position) help identify steps and stages in a gradual project like this?

upgrades im going for:
37's
4.88 r&p
15 inch wheels ~3" back spacing
some sort of after market computer modifier
front/rear bumper/tire carrier
highline flat fenders
2.5-3.5 " suspension lift. I want as low COG as possible.

Stuff Know I'll have to upgrade in the near or distant future:
Front and rear drive shafts
front axle/possibly rear axle
selectable locker
winch

I just need help breaking this down. E-5 in the navy and the wife wont share her money for this. Cant imagine why?
saiyan slayr915 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 02:21 PM
Rock God
 
j-rod17's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Farmington WV
Age: 38
Posts: 1,520
Feedback: 4 reviews

first and foremost with the desire for 35+" tires get C gussets and sleeves welded into that D30 before you bend it. also upgrade your ball joints.

My setup is 3" lift, flat flares...blah blah blah and I am on 37's and love it. I run 4.88 gears and ARB

still running stock drive shafts with no issues.

I would also not go with 15" wheels. many reasons: cant run many 1 ton tie rod ends later on. choice of tires are less than those in 17". I run 16" wheels and I only have a few options for 37's right now.

2008 JKU: continual work in progress
j-rod17 is offline  
post #3 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San Diego, ca
Age: 31
Posts: 27
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by j-rod17 View Post
first and foremost with the desire for 35+" tires get C gussets and sleeves welded into that D30 before you bend it. also upgrade your ball joints.

My setup is 3" lift, flat flares...blah blah blah and I am on 37's and love it. I run 4.88 gears and ARB

still running stock drive shafts with no issues.

I would also not go with 15" wheels. many reasons: cant run many 1 ton tie rod ends later on. choice of tires are less than those in 17". I run 16" wheels and I only have a few options for 37's right now.
would i run into any problems with my drive line/drive shafts on a 2.5" lift? Id like to do some easy trails with as much stock as i can for now. And i was thinking of the artec truss kit for the D30. 17" wheels it is.
saiyan slayr915 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 03:00 PM
Rock God
 
j-rod17's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Farmington WV
Age: 38
Posts: 1,520
Feedback: 4 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by saiyan slayr915 View Post
would i run into any problems with my drive line/drive shafts on a 2.5" lift? Id like to do some easy trails with as much stock as i can for now. And i was thinking of the artec truss kit for the D30. 17" wheels it is.
I would assume drive shafts fine with 2.5" lift. Mine are fine on 3.25"

C gussets are a must before big tires though. my buddy didnt and after a couple years and many many wheel bearings later he learned the 36" tires destroyed the axle C's and he is replaced/replacing the entire axle now.

2008 JKU: continual work in progress
j-rod17 is offline  
post #5 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San Diego, ca
Age: 31
Posts: 27
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by j-rod17 View Post
I would assume drive shafts fine with 2.5" lift. Mine are fine on 3.25"

C gussets are a must before big tires though. my buddy didnt and after a couple years and many many wheel bearings later he learned the 36" tires destroyed the axle C's and he is replaced/replacing the entire axle now.
any idea how much labor might cost for an entire artec truss kit install?
its about $270 for the kit shipped.
saiyan slayr915 is offline  
post #6 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 03:45 PM
JKO Addict!
 
Abacabb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fishersville, VA
Posts: 2,261
Feedback: 1 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by j-rod17 View Post
I would assume drive shafts fine with 2.5" lift. Mine are fine on 3.25"

C gussets are a must before big tires though. my buddy didnt and after a couple years and many many wheel bearings later he learned the 36" tires destroyed the axle C's and he is replaced/replacing the entire axle now.
It's a must have but it took him a couple years to notice.


2012 Jeep Wrangler - Gecko
3.5" Rock Krawler X Factor
40x13.5 Nitto Mud Grapplers / 17" Fuel Hostage
Poison Spyder Brawler Lite / Poison Spyder Rocker Knockers
Poison Spyder RockBrawler w/ Tire Carrier



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k2wranglerx View Post
and yet... canada still sucks worse

we'd make fun of your prime minister if we could... unfortunately nobody's ever heard of him!
Abacabb is offline  
post #7 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 03:51 PM
Rock God
 
j-rod17's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Farmington WV
Age: 38
Posts: 1,520
Feedback: 4 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abacabb View Post
It's a must have but it took him a couple years to notice.
he was in denial. We all told him. he replaced a couple wheel bearings a year, multiple ball joints, and TRE. and now the entire axle housing.

2008 JKU: continual work in progress
j-rod17 is offline  
post #8 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 03:52 PM
JKO Addict!
 
Abacabb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fishersville, VA
Posts: 2,261
Feedback: 1 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by saiyan slayr915 View Post
I have a 2014 JKU Sport S. I want to get to 37's. And I want to be able to take it on some moderate trail riding to see the sights and have some fun.
But, with a limited budget and no welding/fab skills, that goal seems so far away.

Can anyone (perhaps with experience in the same position) help identify steps and stages in a gradual project like this?

upgrades im going for:
37's
4.88 r&p
15 inch wheels ~3" back spacing
some sort of after market computer modifier
front/rear bumper/tire carrier
highline flat fenders
2.5-3.5 " suspension lift. I want as low COG as possible.

Stuff Know I'll have to upgrade in the near or distant future:
Front and rear drive shafts
front axle/possibly rear axle
selectable locker
winch

I just need help breaking this down. E-5 in the navy and the wife wont share her money for this. Cant imagine why?
What is your budget?

No point in regearing and not putting a locker in it. Unless you want to pay for labor twice.
I would also go ahead and do the Artec truss and c gussets while you have all of that out and upgrade the balljoints.

Everything else looks fine.


2012 Jeep Wrangler - Gecko
3.5" Rock Krawler X Factor
40x13.5 Nitto Mud Grapplers / 17" Fuel Hostage
Poison Spyder Brawler Lite / Poison Spyder Rocker Knockers
Poison Spyder RockBrawler w/ Tire Carrier



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k2wranglerx View Post
and yet... canada still sucks worse

we'd make fun of your prime minister if we could... unfortunately nobody's ever heard of him!
Abacabb is offline  
post #9 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 03:52 PM
JKO Addict!
 
Abacabb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fishersville, VA
Posts: 2,261
Feedback: 1 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by j-rod17 View Post
he was in denial. We all told him. he replaced a couple wheel bearings a year, multiple ball joints, and TRE. and now the entire axle housing.
You can't fix stupid!


2012 Jeep Wrangler - Gecko
3.5" Rock Krawler X Factor
40x13.5 Nitto Mud Grapplers / 17" Fuel Hostage
Poison Spyder Brawler Lite / Poison Spyder Rocker Knockers
Poison Spyder RockBrawler w/ Tire Carrier



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k2wranglerx View Post
and yet... canada still sucks worse

we'd make fun of your prime minister if we could... unfortunately nobody's ever heard of him!
Abacabb is offline  
post #10 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San Diego, ca
Age: 31
Posts: 27
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abacabb View Post
What is your budget?

No point in regearing and not putting a locker in it. Unless you want to pay for labor twice.
I would also go ahead and do the Artec truss and c gussets while you have all of that out and upgrade the balljoints.

Everything else looks fine.
I can only spent 2k or so at a time. with 6 months to a year in between. Im saving up to transition out of the military.
If i could skip new fenders for a while and use stock trimmed that would help a lot.

speaking of lockers... I would only consider a selectable locker. That said, its about 800 for the arb locker... About the cost to regear an axle. My thoughts on this are why not put that cost (the cost to regear an axle) into the locker? By buying a crate assembly. But is the D30 4.88 R&P really that weak to justify going to a 44?
Curries replacement rockjock HP44 costs $2,000 alone. But gear set up only costs $150. I'd be spending about an extra 1K on peace-of-mind it seems.

As far as build stages or "steps", I figure building from the drive line out is the most realistic in terms avoiding avoidable equipment failure. Let me know if Im wrong. Im here for advice
saiyan slayr915 is offline  
post #11 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San Diego, ca
Age: 31
Posts: 27
Feedback: 0 reviews

I guess what Im really asking is, how many "stages" can I break this build down into? With the end result being 37s on a rig capable of moderate trails (not mudding!) and maybe a locker (why not, right?).

I was thinking 3 or 4 stages.
stage 1: driveline
either buy currie HP44 with all the essentials for a full replacement. and maybe an ARB locker, and buy a rear 4.88 R&P
OR work on Trussing the D30 and buy R&P 4.88 front and rear.

stage 2: body armor
looking at ORE 1/4 pounder or PSC BFH fronts. In the air over a tire carrier/rear bumber.
modify stock flares. New steel highclearance flares are $$

stage 3: Suspension
Metalcloak 2.5 or 3.5 inch suspension. depends on how high they actually sit. Dont have a lot of weight right now.

somewhere in there I gotta fit wheels and tires and get the gears installed. And need aftermarket computer mod. I think I can install the entire lift. Except MC recommends you take the jeep to a suspension specialist for fine tuning. Whatever that is.
Doing this in stages seems impossible on a daily driver.
saiyan slayr915 is offline  
post #12 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 08:05 PM
JKO Addict!
 
Abacabb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fishersville, VA
Posts: 2,261
Feedback: 1 reviews

That's $2000 just for the housing.
You'll still need shafts, gears, lockers, ball joints, diff cover, yoke, etc. ($$$$).
You also won't want to run 4.88 gearing on stock tires.


2012 Jeep Wrangler - Gecko
3.5" Rock Krawler X Factor
40x13.5 Nitto Mud Grapplers / 17" Fuel Hostage
Poison Spyder Brawler Lite / Poison Spyder Rocker Knockers
Poison Spyder RockBrawler w/ Tire Carrier



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k2wranglerx View Post
and yet... canada still sucks worse

we'd make fun of your prime minister if we could... unfortunately nobody's ever heard of him!
Abacabb is offline  
post #13 of 14 Old 03-30-2014, 12:39 AM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 217
Feedback: 0 reviews

If there is a cheap way to do 37's in stages I missed it.

Minimum:
- Tires - 4 plus a used 37 as a spare, mount and balance
- Wheel spacers to use your current wheels (or new 17 inch wheels with better backspacing)
- Budget boost and cut fenders
- C-gussets - welded by a local shop or a friend at the base hobby shop
- Computer/AEV procal
- Tire carrier or ratchet strap the spare in the back
- Gears - With 4.10s and a Pentastar people are okay with 35's. If you have 3.73's and 37's your going to want to regear when you throw the tires on.

If you wheel lightly the truss and armor can come later, along with a winch.

Last edited by Nomad_K; 03-30-2014 at 05:03 AM.
Nomad_K is offline  
post #14 of 14 Old 03-30-2014, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San Diego, ca
Age: 31
Posts: 27
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abacabb View Post
That's $2000 just for the housing.
You'll still need shafts, gears, lockers, ball joints, diff cover, yoke, etc. ($$$$).
You also won't want to run 4.88 gearing on stock tires.
Ya. No matter what a lot of this has to get done at the same time in terms of labor.
saiyan slayr915 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome