35s are here and fenders are cut, what else? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 03-10-2014, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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35s are here and fenders are cut, what else?

So Ive finally got some real wheels and they should be installed next weekend once I get a new tie rod. The front fenders are already cut and the rears will be next weekend but what else do I need to do to run 35s at stock height?

Ive heard pinch seams mentioned many times but I dont really know what all you need to do to them. I would like a 2.5" lift eventually but it may be a while.

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post #2 of 15 Old 03-10-2014, 11:49 AM
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In my case the installer recommended 1.5 in. bump stops rear. I don't have pictures but any Jeep shop or most Jeepers can show you the pinch seam. It's the body seam just forward of your rear tire on each side.. We did have to trim it and the Rubi rock rail to get clearance.

2013 JKR, Auto, Yukon 4.56, Goodyear MTR/K 35/12.5/17 on XD222 KMC Enduro Beadlocks,Teraflex Big Brakes & Spare Carrier, Warn RC Winch, Metalcloak Front & Rear Bumpers, Metalcloak Overliner Flares & Front Inner Fenders w/ Corner Guards/Tail Lamps, Metalcloak Game Changer 2.5" w/6-Pac's, ARB Diff Covers & Onboard Air, AFE High Tuck Muffler, Front Lower Control Arm Skids, Artec Aluminum Skid System, Poison Spyder Hood Vents, Ripp SC.

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post #3 of 15 Old 03-10-2014, 11:51 AM
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P.S. Forgot. I had to remove the front inner fenders. Replaced with aluminum from Metalcloak.

2013 JKR, Auto, Yukon 4.56, Goodyear MTR/K 35/12.5/17 on XD222 KMC Enduro Beadlocks,Teraflex Big Brakes & Spare Carrier, Warn RC Winch, Metalcloak Front & Rear Bumpers, Metalcloak Overliner Flares & Front Inner Fenders w/ Corner Guards/Tail Lamps, Metalcloak Game Changer 2.5" w/6-Pac's, ARB Diff Covers & Onboard Air, AFE High Tuck Muffler, Front Lower Control Arm Skids, Artec Aluminum Skid System, Poison Spyder Hood Vents, Ripp SC.

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post #4 of 15 Old 03-10-2014, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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How hard are the bump stops to install? I looked at the front ones while replacing my ball joints and it looked like you have to take the spring out to get to them. If its a quick swap I could do it next weekend but anything more it may have to wait.

My fender liners in the front are cut back a good ways, I guess ill see if they fit or not.

Any good threads on how to trim the pinch seams? If I have a good idea of what needs to be done maybe I can do it this weekend.
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post #5 of 15 Old 03-10-2014, 12:36 PM
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Bumps and Seams

Replacing bumper stops you need to remove springs. If you can do that might as well as put a lift on at the same time... Other wise just disconnect your swaybar and see if your wheels make connection with your fender or if your shock compresses all the way.

What year JK do you have? The new 2013 and all the 2014 have a trimmed pinch seam. If you don't have one of those take a sawzall or grinder and get to work! It is the corner of the jeep body that is in the front of your wheel well in the rear. If it is not cut it makes a 90 degree. If it is like that then go ahead and cut it at a reasonable angle so the tire fits and will not hit is when the tire goes up and down. If you want pictures send me a pm so I can text or email them to you.
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post #6 of 15 Old 03-10-2014, 12:54 PM
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RE: Pinch Seams.... Look just in front of your rear tire, where the metal from the tub appears to be pinched/welded together, there is a 90* angle. THAT is the pinch seam that everyone refers to. A lot of times, it needs to be cut back to make clearance for larger tires.

I had to trim mine back about 3" to fit my 37's. Use a Sawzall to cut it. Then touch it up with some spray paint so the cut edges do not rust. If you have Rubi rock rails, you may need to trim those too (I had to do this too). Just remove them (3 or 4 bolts), pop off the end cap, cut the rail, put end cap back on, bolt back on.

RE: Bump Stops... Go to a sports store and buy some practice hockey pucks (1" thickness; ~$1 each) and go to a hardware store, buy a bolt that is about an inch longer than the amount of bumpstops you wish to run, and a washer and bolt. Remove the front springs, drill a hole through the bumpstop pad wide enough for your bolt, drill same size hole through the middle of your pucks, stack them, run the bolt through the pucks and the hole, bolt in place. Much cheaper than spending $30-70 for manufactured bumpstops. Using this method, I have adjusted my bumpstops w/o having to remove the front springs, once I had the initial hole drilled. Hope this helps you save some money!

For reference, I have a 2.5" lift, and 37's. I run 3.5" bumpstops in the rear, and 2" bumpstops up front, with trimmed flat fenders.

2008 JK Rubi on big tires and stuff, RIPP supercharger.
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post #7 of 15 Old 03-10-2014, 01:04 PM
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Throw a 1" - 1.25" body lift on for tire clearance. You'll get added clearance in both the front and the rear.

It's cheap, easy, and better than losing 1.5" of suspension travel and riding on your bump stops.
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post #8 of 15 Old 03-10-2014, 01:24 PM
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Add rear bumps (as mentioned) cut rear punch seam and rock rails if you have stock rubi rails.


Attatched pics shows where 35s will rub if you don't cut enough seam and have added bumps. Last pic shows how the seam will slightly bow out if you don't add bumps/ cut enough. Your tires will push on the body at not even full stuff.



Sorry for my shitty cell phone pics




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post #9 of 15 Old 03-10-2014, 03:12 PM
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I'd like to throw in some Bushwacker flat fenders and my 35s...probably need a true 2" lift, right? I do go offroad and disconnect. I like this flat fender idea, either way.
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post #10 of 15 Old 03-10-2014, 04:00 PM
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Nope. You can run 35s stock with flat fenders you just have to trim your pinch seems and and rails (if need apply) and throw on some extra length rear bump stops and your good

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post #11 of 15 Old 03-10-2014, 04:03 PM
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Interesting. I think I will go that route first- before making bigger changes.
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post #12 of 15 Old 03-11-2014, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyer View Post
Interesting. I think I will go that route first- before making bigger changes.
This is what made sense to me. Was it lift and bigger tires or no lift but flat fenders that'd accommodate up to 37's? I decided on the fenders and 35's. Ultimately I expect to want a lift, but the trail will decide; and I may be comfortable to operate where I am.

2013 JKR, Auto, Yukon 4.56, Goodyear MTR/K 35/12.5/17 on XD222 KMC Enduro Beadlocks,Teraflex Big Brakes & Spare Carrier, Warn RC Winch, Metalcloak Front & Rear Bumpers, Metalcloak Overliner Flares & Front Inner Fenders w/ Corner Guards/Tail Lamps, Metalcloak Game Changer 2.5" w/6-Pac's, ARB Diff Covers & Onboard Air, AFE High Tuck Muffler, Front Lower Control Arm Skids, Artec Aluminum Skid System, Poison Spyder Hood Vents, Ripp SC.

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post #13 of 15 Old 03-11-2014, 01:21 PM
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I am aware of the low belly of the longer JKU but want to lift as little as possible, primarily because of driveline vibrations, pinion angle, etc. I am trying to hold off on using aftermarket driveshafts for as long as possible. I think my rear DS was causing vibrations on the last one (at 60-70 mph) even after being balanced, etc. I don't want to deal with that again- would even rather stay with stock 32s to avoid that.
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post #14 of 15 Old 03-11-2014, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratchettt View Post
This is what made sense to me. Was it lift and bigger tires or no lift but flat fenders that'd accommodate up to 37's? I decided on the fenders and 35's. Ultimately I expect to want a lift, but the trail will decide; and I may be comfortable to operate where I am.
You will need a 2.5" lift and flat fenders to accommodate 37's.
No lift and flat fenders will accommodate 35's, but I wouldn't take it off road.

2008 JK Rubi on big tires and stuff, RIPP supercharger.
Various dents and scratches.
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post #15 of 15 Old 03-11-2014, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AXIS View Post
So Ive finally got some real wheels and they should be installed next weekend once I get a new tie rod. The front fenders are already cut and the rears will be next weekend but what else do I need to do to run 35s at stock height?

Ive heard pinch seams mentioned many times but I dont really know what all you need to do to them. I would like a 2.5" lift eventually but it may be a while.

teaser:
What year is your JK? In 2013 sometime Jeep cut the rear pinch seam down a ton vs the other years. The most you can trim off a 2013 rear pinch seem is about 1" and unless you are running 40s you should not really need to trim a 2013 or 2014 rear pinch seam.

Here is my 2013 pinch seam cut completely off with my stock 32" tires and 5" of lift. I have 13.5" above the 32" tire before the tire touches the flare where it attches to the body and I have over 5.5" from the 32" tire to the front of the wheel well (room for 42s as I measure it).
This is in preparation for 40s!!!

I cut 4" off the length of my Rubicon rails to give you an idea of how much you would be removing on a pre 2013's pinch weld. Those are ACE sliders which come back about half an inch further than where I cut the Rubicon rails.

I removed the entire rear pinch seem the whole way around the wheel wells this is just the front side in the pic.


Last edited by Terminator2; 03-11-2014 at 04:02 PM.
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