Re gearing to 5:13 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Re gearing to 5:13

Hi I just lifted my jeep and I am ready to put some 35s on but I want to re gear so I can gain some of my power back I went to my local off road dealer and they told me to re gear to 5:13s I need a new differential case extra ($200)to hold the new gears I haven't seen or heard that being a problem at all on the internet so I wanted to make sure I believe I have 3:21 gears it's a 2013 jku sport any input would be great thanks
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post #2 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 04:25 AM
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Someone back me up on this. But if you have stock 3.21's you have to get a new front carrier to accept the new gears.

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post #3 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Sams Misguided Child View Post
Someone back me up on this. But if you have stock 3.21's you have to get a new front carrier to accept the new gears.
Yep, I don't think it's $200 for that part alone however. Maybe that included swapping your bearings over, if they weren't doing a master install kit.

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post #4 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 09:12 AM
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Yes you need a new carrier.

Why are you going to 5.13 for a 35 inch tire? I am worried 4.88 will be too much for mine.
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post #5 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 11:45 AM
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You don't want 5.13s, but you will need the replacement carrier. We sell gears and master install kits for $600 shipped and the carrier for $75 shipped. It will accept your factory spider gears which saves a lot of dinero.

Go to 4.56s with an auto or six speed and you'll be fine with the 35s or 37s later.

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post #6 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by RiverCityOffroad View Post
You don't want 5.13s, but you will need the replacement carrier. We sell gears and master install kits for $600 shipped and the carrier for $75 shipped. It will accept your factory spider gears which saves a lot of dinero.

Go to 4.56s with an auto or six speed and you'll be fine with the 35s or 37s later.

Marcus
^^^this. I keep seeing people recommend 5.13's to people with the new Pentastar for 35's all over the place.
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post #7 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 12:00 PM
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$200 for the diff or diff(S)? $200 would be right for both diffs since that is what will be needed....F&R diffs... The cut off for diffs is around 350 or 373 for larger gears.
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post #8 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by merlin4979 View Post
^^^this. I keep seeing people recommend 5.13's to people with the new Pentastar for 35's all over the place.
I cant speak for the Pentstars but I have the 3.8 and 5.13 is perfect for me on 35's . . . a little too much but I want an upgrade path to 37's.

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post #9 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RedRubiconLJ View Post
$200 for the diff or diff(S)? $200 would be right for both diffs since that is what will be needed....F&R diffs... The cut off for diffs is around 350 or 373 for larger gears.
That isn't accurate. Only the front carrier must be replaced on the JK axles and ONLY when the Jeep has 3.21 gears in it from the factory.


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post #10 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 12:04 PM
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^^^this. I keep seeing people recommend 5.13's to people with the new Pentastar for 35's all over the place.
No kidding. If people would slow down long enough to get the facts straight we wouldn't have so many confused people driving Jeeps.


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post #11 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 12:38 PM
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I cant speak for the Pentstars but I have the 3.8 and 5.13 is perfect for me on 35's . . . a little too much but I want an upgrade path to 37's.
I feel like 5.38s aren't enough with with an auto 3.8L on 35s around town, 4-low is spot on though.

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post #12 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 12:47 PM
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I cant speak for the Pentstars but I have the 3.8 and 5.13 is perfect for me on 35's . . . a little too much but I want an upgrade path to 37's.
3.8 and 3.6 are completely different! Our 3.8 run 4:10's on 35's and it... well woks but that is it. The 3.6" runs 5:13's and 40's and is really nice. If you did 5:13's on a 3.6 with 35's, bad things could happen... Don't go that high on the 3.6 with 35's!

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post #13 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by merlin4979 View Post
^^^this. I keep seeing people recommend 5.13's to people with the new Pentastar for 35's all over the place.
I think you have your motors confused. If you have the 3.6 than you need a 4.56 or 4.88. 3.8 motor would use 5.13
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post #14 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by RiverCityOffroad View Post
That isn't accurate. Only the front carrier must be replaced on the JK axles and ONLY when the Jeep has 3.21 gears in it from the factory.
Really? interesting. How do they do that? Usually the diffs are matched and both have to be changed out.

Thats certainly nicer on the pocket book when only 1 is needed!

Those with an auto 3.6 and 513's or even 538's what rpms you running at 70 75 80 and 85 in OD? Please include tire size.

All I ever read is 513/538 so Im curious what the rpms are.
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post #15 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RedRubiconLJ View Post
Really? interesting. How do they do that? Usually the diffs are matched and both have to be changed out.

Thats certainly nicer on the pocket book when only 1 is needed!

Those with an auto 3.6 and 513's or even 538's what rpms you running at 70 75 80 and 85 in OD? Please include tire size.

All I ever read is 513/538 so Im curious what the rpms are.
Google jk 3.6 gear chart. It will give you the info you seek
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post #16 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 01:50 PM
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Thanks, I have that chart but I want real world numbers. I can use a calculator

Nor does it provide rpms at 75 80 and 85.

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post #17 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 03:12 PM
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I think you have your motors confused. If you have the 3.6 than you need a 4.56 or 4.88. 3.8 motor would use 5.13
No. Read my post again. That's my point. With the 3.6, you're looking more at a 4.56, whereas people keep suggesting the 5.13's.


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I cant speak for the Pentstars but I have the 3.8 and 5.13 is perfect for me on 35's . . . a little too much but I want an upgrade path to 37's.
Yes, but the engine/transmission pairing on the 3.6 Pentastar is a completely different animal than the 3.8 setup. 5.13's are way too much for the newer models. For the 07-11 JK's, I'd agree with you.
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post #18 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 03:44 PM
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Yes 5:13's would be too much for 35's, I ran 5:13's with 37's & a 6sp. about 2850 rpm's @ 70mph in 6th (dropped fuel mileage also) but sure made it get up & go. I went and found some Rubi axles so right now I'm running the stock 4:10's it's alright but I'm looking at going to 4:88 this summer. Leave the 5:13's for 40's or high alt places.

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post #19 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by merlin4979 View Post
^^^this. I keep seeing people recommend 5.13's to people with the new Pentastar for 35's all over the place.
I did.. I love it. I run about 3000 RPM @ 75mph....even if you do 4.88's its only about a 200 rpm difference..hardly noticeable...nothing to get worked up over.


One your in OD 3000 RPMs are just in the powerband....its ok...your jeep can handle it.
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post #20 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 04:16 PM
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I did.. I love it. I run about 3000 RPM @ 75mph....even if you do 4.88's its only about a 200 rpm difference..hardly noticeable...nothing to get worked up over.


One your in OD 3000 RPMs are just in the powerband....its ok...your jeep can handle it.
I too have a 2 door 6 speed 3.8 with 37's and 5.13's. High rpms don't hurt and this thing will move on the interstate and crawl on the trail.

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post #21 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 06:19 PM
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I too have a 2 door 6 speed 3.8 with 37's and 5.13's. High rpms don't hurt and this thing will move on the interstate and crawl on the trail.

I have one same as this ^^^^^. Works well on road and trail.


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post #22 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RedRubiconLJ View Post
Thanks, I have that chart but I want real world numbers. I can use a calculator

Nor does it provide rpms at 75 80 and 85.
Try this in your calculator:
(RPM @70) X 75 / 70 = (RPM @ 75)
(RPM @70) X 80 / 70 = (RPM @ 80)
(RPM @70) X 85 / 70 = (RPM @ 85)

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post #23 of 33 Old 02-19-2014, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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I heard that 5:13 with the 3.6l and 35s is the best way to go? I would think 4:56 would be to low and I may also want to go up to 37s sometime in the future and I only want to re gear once
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post #24 of 33 Old 02-20-2014, 12:39 AM
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I heard that 5:13 with the 3.6l and 35s is the best way to go? I would think 4:56 would be to low and I may also want to go up to 37s sometime in the future and I only want to re gear once
I don't have a 3.6L so I won't say which you should do, but some terminology clarification may help your future conversations about gearing.

"4.56 would be to low" is actually backwards, in gear reduction, 4.56 is a higher gear ratio than 5.13. Such as, "put it in low gear" is referencing the lowest gear ratio, which is the highest numerically [say 4.13:1 or something].

That may save you a little confusion when talking gears.

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post #25 of 33 Old 02-20-2014, 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
I don't have a 3.6L so I won't say which you should do, but some terminology clarification may help your future conversations about gearing.

"4.56 would be to low" is actually backwards, in gear reduction, 4.56 is a higher gear ratio than 5.13. Such as, "put it in low gear" is referencing the lowest gear ratio, which is the highest numerically [say 4.13:1 or something].

That may save you a little confusion when talking gears.
X2. And for whatever reason, that's one of my pet peeves. Low numbers are high gears and high numbers are low gears.

I think what's "perfect" gearing is subjective. While I respect the opinions of those on here who have some experience and expertise (and you know who you are), I personally have the 3.6, auto, and 37s, and I did gear "down" to 5.13s and love it. I do agree that 5.13s would be too low for 35s though.

The chart is pretty accurate on the RPMs (for the benefit of RedRubiconLJ), and for 37s, 5.13s are at the lower end of the "performance" gearing. That's "perfect" for me because 1) I don't commute in my JK, and 2) I pull a trailer fairly frequently, so the lower gearing is well appreciated, especially pulling the trailer up the Tehachapi grade, over Donner Pass, or through the passes between here and Moab. I definitely would not want any higher gears in those settings. And while I may not use it that way all the time, I want the torque multiplication when I do. BTW, this setup only runs 200 RPM higher at 70 than the stock Rubicon with 4.10s.

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