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post #1 of 22 Old 02-08-2014, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Tie rod question

Both ends on my tie rod need raplacing but I was looking on quadratec and a picture shows the passenger side joint being part of the full rod. Is this the case or is the end removable just like the driver side end?
Below is the picture Im referring too.
I also need the passenger side drag link end. What do you guys recommend there? The only one they sell at qtec is a Crown replacement. I did some reading and a lot of people didnt talk to highly of crown.
Lastly, are there any complete tie rods or drag links that are moderately cheap? If Im already buying new ends I may just go ahead and upgrade the tie rod.
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post #2 of 22 Old 02-08-2014, 08:05 PM
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Cheap is what cheap does ! You are already looking to buy the cheap stuff with Crown and Quadratec. You can continue being cheap and have to replace these parts over and over or just buy the stuff that will last. You can also buy the cheap stuff from your dealership that you are already having to replace. If you really want the good stuff, post up your desire here and we will help you find it if need be.
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post #3 of 22 Old 02-08-2014, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dahreno View Post
Cheap is what cheap does ! You are already looking to buy the cheap stuff with Crown and Quadratec. You can continue being cheap and have to replace these parts over and over or just buy the stuff that will last. You can also buy the cheap stuff from r dealership that you are already having to replace. If you really want the good stuff, post up your desire here and we will help you find it if need be.
^X2. You can replace them with cheap parts, but at this point it would be a good idea to take a serious look into what you want to do with the rig and post up any questions you have here.
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post #4 of 22 Old 02-08-2014, 10:24 PM
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Tie rod question

Not worth is as mentioned. Spend another few bucks and upgrade the tie rod. I run the Synergy unit. RK, Carolina MC are other options. RUFF stuff offers a kit with off set joints if you have the means to DIY with the right wheels/backspacing. Oscar on the forum pieced together a kit. Not sure where he's at with that though.
As far as the drag link, the passenger side eats up joints. I went through 2 stockers, bought another before finally upgrading. Again, Synergy was my choice.
You def have a few options over the stock crap.


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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers

Last edited by kjeeper10; 02-08-2014 at 10:26 PM.
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post #5 of 22 Old 02-09-2014, 07:01 AM
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Agree with all above...Ruff Stuff is what I have gone with, for the money its tough to beat
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post #6 of 22 Old 02-09-2014, 08:24 AM
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Check out synergy heavy duty tie rod, if you wheel it, then you may want it or something similar.
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post #7 of 22 Old 02-09-2014, 11:21 AM
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+2 on the offset gm tierod ends ...easy to find
if you damage one ... 1.5 .25 wall Dom is pretty tough also
you could always do 7/8 x3/4 chromoly rod ends
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post #8 of 22 Old 02-10-2014, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by JKWho View Post
Agree with all above...Ruff Stuff is what I have gone with, for the money its tough to beat
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSLSE21B View Post
+2 on the offset gm tierod ends ...easy to find
if you damage one ... 1.5 .25 wall Dom is pretty tough also
you could always do 7/8 x3/4 chromoly rod ends
This. I have been happy with mine.

I believe 50" bar is what you need. Research that to be sure or I can measure mine with the bungs. They can figure out the bar length for you with that.
I found a ticketed tig welder. I wanted it to be strong and not break on the highway as that would be a disaster.

Some have reamed the taper in the knuckles so the tierod is the size of the gm 1 ton. I found it be an ok fit as is. I used the old tierod end grease boots to hold up the gm tierod end grease boot. I find that this works. If I find someone with a reamer I will consider reaming it.

As for the drag link mine is factory.I went with hydraulic steering. It takes the load off those parts so it is ok and not needing to be replaced.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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post #9 of 22 Old 02-11-2014, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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I went ahead and went with the Moog tie rod ends. Maybe Ill upgrade to the RK tie rod later on but right now tires are a priority.

I cant seem to decide what I need for the drag link though. Is there a direct replacement for the passenger side half that Im just overlooking? Also, can the Synergy high steer drag link be used in the stock, non flipped, configuration without needed any changes (backspacing?)?
And would I see any advantages from going ahead and flipping it?

The Synergy price isnt too bad @ $200 so getting the new drag link wouldnt be a big deal if its really worth it.
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post #10 of 22 Old 02-11-2014, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AXIS View Post
I went ahead and went with the Moog tie rod ends. Maybe Ill upgrade to the RK tie rod later on but right now tires are a priority.

I cant seem to decide what I need for the drag link though. Is there a direct replacement for the passenger side half that Im just overlooking? Also, can the Synergy high steer drag link be used in the stock, non flipped, configuration without needed any changes (backspacing?)?
And would I see any advantages from going ahead and flipping it?

The Synergy price isnt too bad @ $200 so getting the new drag link wouldnt be a big deal if its really worth it.
Yes, the Synergy Drag Link can be used in the factory position as well as a flipped high steer configuration as well. Depending on your lift height you might want to look at flipping it.


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post #11 of 22 Old 02-11-2014, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Currently Im at stock height (and will be for a short while at least).
I plan on a 2.5" lift when I can though.

In the stock configuration does it require the tapered drilling or is it a direct replacement?
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post #12 of 22 Old 02-12-2014, 04:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AXIS View Post
Currently Im at stock height (and will be for a short while at least).
I plan on a 2.5" lift when I can though.

In the stock configuration does it require the tapered drilling or is it a direct replacement?
I have been told direct replacement.

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post #13 of 22 Old 02-12-2014, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AXIS View Post
Currently Im at stock height (and will be for a short while at least).
I plan on a 2.5" lift when I can though.

In the stock configuration does it require the tapered drilling or is it a direct replacement?
As Pig said, yeah it can be ran in either the stock configuration or you can flip it. It all depends on how much lift you are running. I have a RK 2.5 x factor and run my synergy drag link in the stock configuration.
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post #14 of 22 Old 02-12-2014, 04:43 PM
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Yea the synergy unit uses their metal on metal 1 ton (?) replaceable ends on both ends. This allows rotation of the bar to be run either stock/flipped . If it had a solid joint on one end, you would not be able to do this.


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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #15 of 22 Old 02-13-2014, 04:25 AM
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I think he was asking if the knuckle needs to be modified (reamed or drill/insert) for the Synergy end. I haven't heard directly from Synergy, but have read there is no modification needed to run it without flipping.

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post #16 of 22 Old 02-13-2014, 07:40 AM
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Just an Fyi, we will be releasing our new Off-Road Pro Tie Rod for JK's.


  • 1.625" Diameter Solid 7075 AL Bar
  • Turn Buckle Style Adjustability
  • Massive Outer Tie Rod Ends
  • Includes Steering Stabilizer Mounting Bracket and Hardware
  • *Requires 17" or Larger Diameter Wheels with no More than 4.5" of B.S.
  • The Knuckles will use Straight 18mm Bolts that are Included and Will Need to be Drilled out Accordingly.
  • Suggested Retail Price of $525

RK

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post #17 of 22 Old 02-13-2014, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASSFROW View Post
I think he was asking if the knuckle needs to be modified (reamed or drill/insert) for the Synergy end. I haven't heard directly from Synergy, but have read there is no modification needed to run it without flipping.
The knuckle does not need to be modified to run the Synergy replacement DL in the factory location.


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post #18 of 22 Old 02-13-2014, 12:00 PM
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[QUOTE=Rock Krawler Suspension;2259241]Just an Fyi, we will be releasing our new Off-Road Pro Tie Rod for JK's.


  • 1.625" Diameter Solid 7075 AL Bar
  • Turn Buckle Style Adjustability
  • Massive Outer Tie Rod Ends
  • Includes Steering Stabilizer Mounting Bracket and Hardware
  • *Requires 17" or Larger Diameter Wheels with no More than 4.5" of B.S.
  • The Knuckles will use Straight 18mm Bolts that are Included and Will Need to be Drilled out Accordingly.
  • Suggested Retail Price of $525

RK[/QU


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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #19 of 22 Old 02-13-2014, 12:01 PM
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App is acting all F-in weird.

RK ... That tie rod looks sick


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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #20 of 22 Old 02-14-2014, 07:26 AM
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Thanks sir. We know it takes a beating. Those are the same ends we use on our Pure Performance Brand for Ram HD and Super Duty Steering assemblies. We are confident it is the strongest in the industry...

RK
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post #21 of 22 Old 02-14-2014, 11:41 PM
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Spending anywhere near $500 on a tie rod is absolutely retarded. The ruffstuff tierod is beef for $135. If you bend it you may need driving lessons...not a $500 Al tie rod.

Its not a fashion show
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post #22 of 22 Old 02-15-2014, 03:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fueler View Post
Spending anywhere near $500 on a tie rod is absolutely retarded. The ruffstuff tierod is beef for $135. If you bend it you may need driving lessons...not a $500 Al tie rod.

While $500 is too much for me, I would have killed a ruff stuff a long time ago. They get bent quite frequently and aren't all that heavy duty..my current RK tie rod has taken some flat out abuse. Big rocks and low factory tie rod mounting take place of "driving lessons".


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