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post #1 of 17 Old 02-07-2014, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Looking for Advice on Proposed Build

Greetings all:

I just purchased a 2014 JKU Freedom Edition and I'm looking for some suggestions for my proposed build. I split my time between NYC and Florida, and the JK lives at my Florida home. While it will see mostly street use, I live about a mile from Corbett, and I plan to get over there as soon as I can. Also, while I'm pretty handy and have done a bit of work on my own vehicles, I don't have a garage so I plan on paying someone to do the work for me on this one.

Currently, it has the 6 speed manual, 3.21 gears, rock rails and a soft top.

Here's what I'm thinking:

Phase I:
Gears 4.88 F D30 / R D44 (Yukon)
Selectable Front Locker (Auburn or Eaton)
5 Wheels 17 x 9 (Level 8 XR)
5 35 x 12.50 x 17 (MT Baja MTZ)
2.5 inch lift (Terraflex or AEV)
AEV Procal
Wheel locks / lug nuts
Tire deflators

Does this sound like a reasonable build for the first Phase? Is there anything else I should be considering at this point? I estimated the parts for Phase I at around $5K. Any ideas on what I should expect for labor?

Here is what I have planned for Phase II at this point:

Phase II:
Ace rock sliders
F/R bumpers
Winch
Lights
Skid plates
Air compressor
Exhaust
Air intake

Anyway, all opinions are welcome.

Thanks in advance.

Mark
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post #2 of 17 Old 02-07-2014, 01:49 PM
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That sounds pretty good although I personally would do a rear locker first.

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post #3 of 17 Old 02-07-2014, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Rubiconquered - Question

OK, so I have the stock limited slip in the rear but an open front, so that's why I decided on the front locker. I like that the Auburn is a LSD until you lock it, and I also figured that while the pumpkin is open to regear is probably the best time to do the lockers. So I think what I'm saying is that I just talked myself into doing both lockers, front and rear! Well, there goes another $800!
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post #4 of 17 Old 02-07-2014, 03:08 PM
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Lol, you might not really have a need for a front locker. I don't know how difficult of wheeling you plan on doing, but for the most part you can do ALLOT of Good trails with Just a rear locker.

You might even be able to get away with Just the lsd in the rear being all you need. What are the trail ratings you plan on doing? 1-5 5 being extreme difficult need a buggy to run

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post #5 of 17 Old 02-07-2014, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Good question on the trails. I live about a mile from a place called JW Corbett. From what I've seen, they are mostly hunting trails that tend to accumulate quite a bit of water. You can find some good footage of them on Youtube. Florida is pretty flat, but I'm sure I can still get into plenty of trouble.

2012 4x4 Jeep Wrangler at J.W. Corbett Trail 13 - YouTube
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post #6 of 17 Old 02-07-2014, 04:53 PM
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Honestly with that sort of terrain I would run it with just the LS rear. Get a feel for how the jeep runs without a locker and in the future if you feel it necessary then at that time I'd get one

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post #7 of 17 Old 02-07-2014, 05:09 PM
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If it was me, I would skip the locker and stay with LS... But I would get a snorkel because with my luck, I'll find the deep hole somewhere on the trail and sink my Jeep!!!!
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post #8 of 17 Old 02-11-2014, 03:30 PM
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I run the trails in Florida and I went with an Aussie locker in front and the factory lsd in the rear. that works well in the wet and sandy trails we run here. I went to this setup on the advise of the crowd I run with, and it does well. another setup to think about is trutracs front and rear, that also works well down here. one last point, Florida is a bit different than most of the rest of the US.
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post #9 of 17 Old 02-11-2014, 08:03 PM
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You might want to bump the rock sliders into phase 1, just because, especially with the JKU, it's easy to get into the rockers. Which, for a new vehicle, sucks. For the lockers, I'd say do them at the same time as the gears, just to save some labour costs. I hate to try and spend your money, but selectable lockers are awesome. My Rubicon has them and I'm not sure how I would cope without them now....just cause you can flip the front off to make a turn (and take some stress off of the steering system on the trail when you really don't need it) but it's there when you need it. I flip mine in and out on the trail all the time just cause the trails we run tend to be tight and turny, sometimes while not being all that difficult of terrain. Maybe do phase 1 minus the gears, save some serious cash, do phase 1.5, being just the gears and lockers and then on to phase 2. Although 3.21's kinda suck, you may be able to live with it for a little while because of the manual and the Pentastar.

For the lift, although I like AEV's stuff, the lift isn't one of them just because of the cam bolt stuff. Adjustable arms would be better. Take some time researching and reading about other options, because there is a shitload and it is probably one of the biggest things that influences driveability of your new Jeep.

If you're going to be dropping psi on the trail, try to have some sort of air source. Even a cheap portable compressor is better than nothing. That's what I've done the few times I've dropped psi, and it's nice not to have to rely on the other guys in the group in order to air up. Worry about the OBA stuff later when it's more feasible.

More importantly is find a good, reputable shop to do the work. Start researching that sooner rather than later so you can find a place that you can trust with your new baby. The last thing you need is corners cut when you pay for a premium service.

Other than that, take your time! My suggestion is to take it out wheeling a few times. You'll get a feel for your new Jeep and it's capabilities. It will actually make you a better wheeler, because you won't be relying on your lift or big tires, they will enhance your driving eventually. I drive mine stock and wheeling is just as enjoyable even though I'm more limited than some of the other guys I go with.

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post #10 of 17 Old 02-11-2014, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks JKLarry & 2Door. I'm getting lots of balanced advice. The one piece I've gotten a few times that I'm definitely going to take is to start wheeling it stock before I dump a lot of $$ into mods I don't need (or can't effectively use). One thing that has prevented me from jumping right in is that my JK lives at my second home in FL and I'm up in NYC right now. Hopefully when I get back to FL later this month I can get muddy!


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post #11 of 17 Old 02-11-2014, 08:50 PM
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I would normally say rear locker before front locker... BUT.. on the four dour I found that I could get my front tires up on alot of obstacles but couldn't pull myself up them.

went with an aussie up front and the factory LSD in the rear.. What a difference.

This will be dependent on what type of wheeling yo do, but for crawling and climbing the front locker on a 4 door gets my vote !

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post #12 of 17 Old 02-11-2014, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asmmns View Post
I would normally say rear locker before front locker... BUT.. on the four dour I found that I could get my front tires up on alot of obstacles but couldn't pull myself up them.

went with an aussie up front and the factory LSD in the rear.. What a difference.

This will be dependent on what type of wheeling yo do, but for crawling and climbing the front locker on a 4 door gets my vote !
I agree with this.. I had open/lsd in my 4 door, added a front ARB and was very happy with the difference. Night and day in many areas I was having issues before, now no sweat with the locker..

I do want a rear locker though.. really bad. There have been plenty of times I have gotten stuck because I had no traction in the rear, especially on obstacles requiring really slow crawling. Maybe its my tires, but a rear locker will be my next mod. I wish I added a rear locker when I had it regeared the first time.

Good luck with your build!

More Cowbell
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post #13 of 17 Old 02-12-2014, 07:11 AM
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Off to a good start, sounds like a solid build. Lets see some pics.
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post #14 of 17 Old 02-12-2014, 07:24 AM
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In phase 1 you will need to add a new carrier since you are running the stock 3.21's now. Just wanted to let you know so you can budget and plan for it.

If there is anything we can do to help, just let us know!

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post #15 of 17 Old 02-12-2014, 07:34 AM
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If you don't plan to go larger than 35's in the future, 4.88 is probably overkill. I'd go with 4.56.

I have 35's with the stock Rubi 4.10's and an auto and I feel like that combination is perfect for my DD and weekend wheeling. I have no plans to go lower.


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post #16 of 17 Old 02-12-2014, 08:04 AM
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If you want to, stop up at our shop, we are right outside of Albany... We love to talk Jeep. Good luck with your build.

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post #17 of 17 Old 02-12-2014, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mstgeorge001 View Post
Greetings all:

I just purchased a 2014 JKU Freedom Edition and I'm looking for some suggestions for my proposed build. I split my time between NYC and Florida, and the JK lives at my Florida home. While it will see mostly street use, I live about a mile from Corbett, and I plan to get over there as soon as I can. Also, while I'm pretty handy and have done a bit of work on my own vehicles, I don't have a garage so I plan on paying someone to do the work for me on this one.

Currently, it has the 6 speed manual, 3.21 gears, rock rails and a soft top.

Here's what I'm thinking:

Phase I:
Gears 4.88 F D30 / R D44 (Yukon)
Selectable Front Locker (Auburn or Eaton)
5 Wheels 17 x 9 (Level 8 XR)
5 35 x 12.50 x 17 (MT Baja MTZ)
2.5 inch lift (Terraflex or AEV)
AEV Procal
Wheel locks / lug nuts
Tire deflators

Does this sound like a reasonable build for the first Phase? Is there anything else I should be considering at this point? I estimated the parts for Phase I at around $5K. Any ideas on what I should expect for labor?

Here is what I have planned for Phase II at this point:

Phase II:
Ace rock sliders
F/R bumpers
Winch
Lights
Skid plates
Air compressor
Exhaust
Air intake

Anyway, all opinions are welcome.

Thanks in advance.

Mark
I'd get the tire deflators and the air compressor at the same time. Other than that, the plan looks good.

To tell the truth though, except for the gearing, most of the other stuff can be done in a driveway.
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