I dont even know where to begin. Need suggestions. - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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I dont even know where to begin. Need suggestions.

Ok so I have a 2012 4 door Rubicon and I would like to lift it 4 inches and fit 35 inch tires on it keeping the stock 17 inch rims. I figured the stock axles could handle 35's being the max. I didn't want to be cutting sheet metal or re-welding to put the lift kit in and I was wondering if there is a way around. I do not plan on rock crawling but id like to do some trails ( nothing too serious ). Any suggestions on a setup would be fantastic.

Lift kits?
Tires?
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post #2 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry3h93 View Post
Ok so I have a 2012 4 door Rubicon and I would like to lift it 4 inches and fit 35 inch tires on it keeping the stock 17 inch rims. I figured the stock axles could handle 35's being the max. I didn't want to be cutting sheet metal or re-welding to put the lift kit in and I was wondering if there is a way around. I do not plan on rock crawling but id like to do some trails ( nothing too serious ). Any suggestions on a setup would be fantastic.

Lift kits?
Tires?
Reading a bunch around the forums is a good place to start. Take a look at photos, get together with some other Jeepers in your area, etc. And just taking the Jeep out as-is is also a great experience to see what works and what you need.

First off, you don't need 4" to fit 35" tires on your JK. You can stick with something along the lines of a 2.5"-3" lift range and be more than capable. Look at Rock Krawler, Metalcloak, Teraflex, Synergy, etc. The better, more complete the kit - the better of a ride you will have. If you're interested in keeping the center of gravity even lower, you can go with just a set of flat fenders and no lift at all.

Second, you can keep the existing wheels, but you will need to get a set of wheel spacers, like the 1.5" Spydertrax. Keep an eye on them every time you do an oil change (or some other regular interval, and you'll be good to go)

As for tires, it is going to be a question of budget, and what sort of terrain you're planning on driving on. Mostly street? Go with an All-Terrain or a hybrid like the Duratrac. Mud? Rock? Trails? Each has their own variation of what works and what doesn't. Some of the more popular all-around tires are the Toyo MT, the BF Goodrich KM2, the Goodyear MT-R, Mickey Thompson MTZ, etc.

Other small assorted items, like axle gussets and a tuner chip will be good, but hopefully that starts you off with a little direction.

Call one of the vendors here if you have questions.

Marcus at River City Offroad 832-526-2415
Jay or Norm at Stomper Offroad
Jason at Krawl
...etc.
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post #3 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 02:53 PM
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Oh, boy.... Brace yourself. You'll likely get a ton of answers.

Mine is that you do not need 4 inches of lift to fit 35's. With the right fenders you can do 35's with no lift at all.

Depending on what you want to do with it though, a small quality lift (RocKrawler/ Poly are the favorites around here) in the 2.5 inch range is probably what you're looking for.

Others should be along shortly. Welcome to the forum.

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Now back to a 2013 JKU Rubicon with "stuff", planning 37's with minimal lift.

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post #4 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 02:56 PM
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For reference, I have a '13 Rubicon 2 dr and am running the Rock Krawler 2.5 X factor lift with Bilstein 5100 shocks I got right at 4" out of that lift. Everything in the lift is bolt on with the exception of the rear track bar bracket. That bracket bolts on but RK suggests welding the bracket in place as well. I have 17" MB Razor wheels with the 1.5 SpyderTrax spacers and 37" KM2 tires. Everything fit great, only cutting I needed to do for fitment was on the stock rear bumper (before I got the Poison Spyder rear).
Everything rides great on the road (better than stock in my opinion), it is a little bouncy on rough dirt roads but better shocks would help with that.

Also, the 2.5 lift availble from most companies will net you closer to 4" of lift so make sure you do your research about how much lift you will actually get out of their springs before making a final decision. And the lift amount is typically for a fully outfitted Jeep (i.e. heavy front and rear bumpers, winch, etc.).



Last edited by tribal636; 01-28-2014 at 02:59 PM.
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post #5 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 03:01 PM
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Something I just remembered too, if you only plan on running 35s the Rock Krawler 1.5 system may be good for you.
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post #6 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks very informative!!!!!!! Yeah I was looking at the 3.5 inch Rock krawler system. It says Its completely bolt on and doesn't mention that I need anything else. It does mention a rear track bar relocation bracket though. Does that mean I have to weld that in or is it bolt on too? As I look through the threads of people who have installed "Bolt On" lifts some of them wind up welding something anyways lol.
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post #7 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry3h93 View Post
Thanks very informative!!!!!!! Yeah I was looking at the 3.5 inch Rock krawler system. It says Its completely bolt on and doesn't mention that I need anything else. It does mention a rear track bar relocation bracket though. Does that mean I have to weld that in or is it bolt on too? As I look through the threads of people who have installed "Bolt On" lifts some of them wind up welding something anyways lol.
If you open the instructions on their website and read through the installation instructions it says they suggest welding it on. I drove mine without it welded for about a month and a half, just bolted on and it didn't give me any problems. If you don't plan on putting anything bigger than 35's, I wouldn't go with the 3.5 RK system. You will end up with close to 5" of lift off of that 3.5. It would however probably be good if you don't plan on running flat fenders because the stock fenders are huge. My 37's fit with the 2.5 X factor system on stock fenders but I would rub like crazy with any flex. I am also running KM2's that measure 35.5" from ground to top of tire when mounted.

Last edited by tribal636; 01-28-2014 at 03:20 PM.
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post #8 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 03:32 PM
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Lots of good information here. The 3.5 is the sweet spot on the JKU if you're going to wheel it and I think you'd be happy with the 2.5 systems and 35s for daily driving and 35s.

2.5" will keep you from having to mess with the exhaust / front driveshaft and will keep you from needing much more than a lift with coils, shocks, front lower control arms, and sway bar links.

Here's mine on an RK 2.5 with 35s:








Same Jeep with 3.5 and 35s:





But wait there's more... LOL

3.5 and 37s:





3.5, 37s, Poison Spyder Flares:





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post #9 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry3h93 View Post
Thanks very informative!!!!!!! Yeah I was looking at the 3.5 inch Rock krawler system. It says Its completely bolt on and doesn't mention that I need anything else. It does mention a rear track bar relocation bracket though. Does that mean I have to weld that in or is it bolt on too? As I look through the threads of people who have installed "Bolt On" lifts some of them wind up welding something anyways lol.
Just to put your mind at ease here, the rear track bar bracket does in fact BOLT on, Rock Krawler just recommends having the two tabs that hug the axle tube welded up to reinforce it.

You can bolt it all up and drive it around and it will be fine. If you want to have it welded up stop in at an exhaust shop and ask them how much to make two, 3" stitch welds. It'll take them about 20 minutes total and should run about $50.

Marcus


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post #10 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 04:08 PM
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I had mine welded by someone for a 6 pack of craft beer. It really takes longer to pull the tools out than to actually weld it. Also, Marcus mentioned with the 2.5 not needing exhaust spacers. I don't know if I needed them or not but my exhaust was really close without them so I went ahead and put them on. They are really easy to do though, took like 15 minutes to install the exhaust spacers.
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post #11 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by tribal636 View Post
I had mine welded by someone for a 6 pack of craft beer. It really takes longer to pull the tools out than to actually weld it. Also, Marcus mentioned with the 2.5 not needing exhaust spacers. I don't know if I needed them or not but my exhaust was really close without them so I went ahead and put them on. They are really easy to do though, took like 15 minutes to install the exhaust spacers.
I only said that because he's got the four door. You're dead on with lift heights and needing them on the two door. It is a totally different animal.

Jeep looks great dude! I can't wait for my two door to be done.

Marcus


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post #12 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by RiverCityOffroad View Post
I only said that because he's got the four door. You're dead on with lift heights and needing them on the two door. It is a totally different animal.

Jeep looks great dude! I can't wait for my two door to be done.

Marcus
I just realized he said 4 dr. Shows how much attention I was paying earlier. OP I'm sorry if I have given any incorrect or misleading information, everything I posted was 2 dr info. Thank you Marcus, I feel like mine has gotten to 'upgrade when it breaks' status but I doubt that will last long.
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post #13 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 06:45 PM
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I know my friend's situation may not have been the norm, but you really need to weld that trackbar bracket on. No off-roading and not very many street miles and it ripped off the front axle along with the factory bracket.

Fwiw, I run the 3.5 Max travel with 37s, rancho 9000s and love it. Marcus is good at helping one invest in their jeep lol!


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post #14 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 06:56 PM
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I know my friend's situation may not have been the norm, but you really need to weld that trackbar bracket on. No off-roading and not very many street miles and it ripped off the front axle along with the factory bracket.

Fwiw, I run the 3.5 Max travel with 37s, rancho 9000s and love it. Marcus is good at helping one invest in their jeep lol!


Vandy
We are talking about the rear trackbar bracket. The RK doesn't come with a front relocation bracket, atleast mine didn't.
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post #15 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Yea im gunna borrow my dads welder. Since it bolts on, i have no problem making the welds. thanks for the info!!!
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post #16 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by tribal636 View Post
We are talking about the rear trackbar bracket. The RK doesn't come with a front relocation bracket, atleast mine didn't.
ok i just looked and you're right, i was thinking about the one that comes with the ultimate steering package.

OP, i can't weld something i need to trust just yet so i had someone do mine. it's no big deal really


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post #17 of 36 Old 01-28-2014, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=RiverCityOffroad;2210345]Lots of good information here. The 3.5 is the sweet spot on the JKU if you're going to wheel it and I think you'd be happy with the 2.5 systems and 35s for daily driving and 35s.

2.5" will keep you from having to mess with the exhaust / front driveshaft and will keep you from needing much more than a lift with coils, shocks, front lower control arms, and sway bar links.

Here's mine on an RK 2.5 with 35s:

[URL=http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/RiverCityOffroad/media/whitey3.jpg.html]


Wait so if i go with the 3.5 inch lift, i will have to modify the front drive shaft?
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post #18 of 36 Old 01-29-2014, 04:06 AM
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[QUOTE=RiverCityOffroad;2210345]

OK, I'm usually the last person on earth to care about wheel cosmetics, especially since I always tear mine up in the rocks.....but damn, I LOVE these wheels. What are they?

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post #19 of 36 Old 01-29-2014, 04:40 AM
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[QUOTE=BADGER;2211841]
Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverCityOffroad View Post


OK, I'm usually the last person on earth to care about wheel cosmetics, especially since I always tear mine up in the rocks.....but damn, I LOVE these wheels. What are they?
Black Rock, Rhino. I have them an am very happy with the quality. Especially for a inexpensive wheel.

Hey if you get them we can be samies!

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post #20 of 36 Old 01-29-2014, 07:36 AM
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[QUOTE=ASSFROW;2211905]
Quote:
Originally Posted by BADGER View Post

Black Rock, Rhino. I have them an am very happy with the quality. Especially for a inexpensive wheel.

Hey if you get them we can be samies!

Black Rhino Imperials

I ran them on two Jeeps and they held up well. A friend of mine is still beating the snot out of the set in the photos here without any issues. I really like those wheels and they are affordable too. Also available in black, but they look too much like an XD Addict then for me.


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post #21 of 36 Old 01-29-2014, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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So even with my JKU (being heavier than the two door) I will get a decent amount of net lift out of the 2.5 system? I have decided to go Rock Krawler for sure, but i still seem to be a bit torn between the 2.5 and 3.5 lift. I know i can go 2.5 for sure without any problems but if i can go taller with the 3.5 without having to mess with the drive shafts then definitely will. (Ill be adding gussets to my axles for sure!)
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post #22 of 36 Old 01-29-2014, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry3h93 View Post
Wait so if i go with the 3.5 inch lift, i will have to modify the front drive shaft?
Quote:
Originally Posted by barry3h93 View Post
So even with my JKU (being heavier than the two door) I will get a decent amount of net lift out of the 2.5 system? I have decided to go Rock Krawler for sure, but i still seem to be a bit torn between the 2.5 and 3.5 lift. I know i can go 2.5 for sure without any problems but if i can go taller with the 3.5 without having to mess with the drive shafts then definitely will. (Ill be adding gussets to my axles for sure!)
For daily driver duties you'll be fine. When you disconnect your sway bars and articulate the suspension the plastic drive shaft boot will rub on the hot exhaust and melt / tear it. You'll lose your grease seal and over time the driveshaft will fail.

If you never take it offroad you'll likely be fine for thousands and thousands of miles.

This thread below details what I did on my JKU to remedy the exhaust / driveshaft clearance. It cost me $85 at the local exhaust shop and is a permanent solution vs exhaust spacers which bolt in.

I put 22K miles on the vehicle with stock shafts and 3.5 RK before I sold it a couple of weeks ago. No issues whatsoever and I did wheel the Jeep.

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showth...t=88865&page=2


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post #23 of 36 Old 01-29-2014, 12:00 PM
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The OP is getting lots of recommendations to go with a 2.5" lift instead of a 3.5" lift. I'm going to say just the opposite, go with a 3.5" lift instead of a 2.5" lift. The 1" taller suspension will have an extra 1" of suspension travel before the axle hits the bump stop, and that makes a difference off road. I'm not talking about rock crawling, I'm talking about just driving on trails, and even dirt roads. I had a 2.5" suspension with 35s on a 2010 JK, and a 2.5" suspension with flat fenders and 37s on a 2011 JK. Now I have a 3.5" suspension and 35s on a 2013 JK, and the 3.5" suspension rides a lot better if you ask me. I don't think it looks bad either.

2010


2011


2013

2017 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Recon; 35s - no lift, Warn 9.5 XP-S, ARB Twin Air, SPOD
2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk (wife's Jeep)
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Megacab 4x4; 6.7 CTD, Aisen, AEV Prospector conversion; 37s, 4.10s, Warn 16.5K

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post #24 of 36 Old 01-29-2014, 12:27 PM
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The OP is getting lots of recommendations to go with a 2.5" lift instead of a 3.5" lift. I'm going to say just the opposite, go with a 3.5" lift instead of a 2.5" lift. The 1" taller suspension will have an extra 1" of suspension travel before the axle hits the bump stop, and that makes a difference off road. I'm not talking about rock crawling, I'm talking about just driving on trails, and even dirt roads. I had a 2.5" suspension with 35s on a 2010 JK, and a 2.5" suspension with flat fenders and 37s on a 2011 JK. Now I have a 3.5" suspension and 35s on a 2013 JK, and the 3.5" suspension rides a lot better if you ask me. I don't think it looks bad

My recommendations for the 2.5 were prior to me realizing he has a jku. I agree with you that the 3.5 would be a lot better for him on the JKU.
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post #25 of 36 Old 01-29-2014, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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My recommendations for the 2.5 were prior to me realizing he has a jku. I agree with you that the 3.5 would be a lot better for him on the JKU.
What other modifications do i have to do to my JKU if i get the 3.5? Longer drive shafts? exhaust mods
?
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