Accident repair..Upgrades? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 22 Old 01-14-2014, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Accident repair..Upgrades?

I was in an accident last week with my 2014 JKU. Other persons fault so their insurance is paying for everything.

This is not going to really be a wheeling jeep for quite a while. But while some parts are being replaced should I upgrade? I cannot really afford to go much beyond what the insurance company is paying out.

On a quick look, axle housing is bent, lower control arm bent, steering box is broken, fender dented, fender flare gone (obviously), bumper and grill. I am not sure what else it is going to need yet.

With that said, insurance is allowing for $2500 for the front axle assembly. I would love to upgrade to a Tera30hd or Tera44. But cant build one for that price. But would it be worth it to upgrade to a rubicon 44? As they are pretty close in price.

Also the steering box. Looks like they have about $700 for an OEM one. Should I get an AGR box instead?

And I plan to replace the front bumper with a poison spyder bumper instead of the factory.








And the vehicle I hit
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post #2 of 22 Old 01-14-2014, 10:58 AM
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Same thing happened to me, they covered about $1800 of my axle. I went with a PR44 and it was like 3400 outta my pocket.. worth it in my opinion.

However, mine was relatively mild accident like yours, not a single body panel was damaged, still added up to around $14K in repairs. Took about 4 months, took it from the shop that did the original repairs after they set my castor to 11 degrees and it was driving terrible, to a few alignment shops.. everyone refused to work on it.. took me months to dial it in myself. Major headache. Turns out my steering box was damaged and they never caught it, so I was getting death wobble regularly.

My opinion is if you are going to dive in and do upgrades, make sure you can handle it coming back like mine, terrible.. The original shop blamed most of the work on the fact that I added 'new' parts which changed things.. IMO they were just lame.. Just make sure you know exactly how everything works together, and make sure to go over everything with a fine tooth comb.. I wish I fought it more, but in the end, I am happy with the final results.

Hope it all works out for you without issues..

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post #3 of 22 Old 01-14-2014, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I have no problem repairing it. If it was my fault, I probably would be doing all the work myself.

I would love to go with the PR. But that is just it, I can't afford the extra money out of pocket currently. My total estimate is $8k in repairs.

I guess my biggest question would really be is it worth it to go with a rubicon 44? Because that is what I would be able to swing at this point.

other parts
steering box $726.15
steering linkage $227
1 lower control arm $78
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post #4 of 22 Old 01-14-2014, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PYAGID View Post
Yeah, I have no problem repairing it. If it was my fault, I probably would be doing all the work myself.

I would love to go with the PR. But that is just it, I can't afford the extra money out of pocket currently. My total estimate is $8k in repairs.

I guess my biggest question would really be is it worth it to go with a rubicon 44? Because that is what I would be able to swing at this point.

other parts
steering box $726.15
steering linkage $227
1 lower control arm $78
When I was pricing out a Rubi 44, the dealership was asking like $3700, while a pick and pull in town had one that was a few years old, he was asking like $4000.. I was blown away. Tried to find one here but nothing worked out.

I also went to a PSC hydro assist, instead of a factory box. Worked out well, but yea, I paid a lot to get hit hahaha..

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post #5 of 22 Old 01-14-2014, 11:41 AM
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If you upgrade to a D44 for a Rubicon, I think it will come with 4.10 gears so that will mean regearing the other axle if you don't already have 4.10s.

I know it's only $78, but you can get lower control arms free all day long. As a matter of fact I have a pair I will give you.

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post #6 of 22 Old 01-14-2014, 11:52 AM
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I would save the out of pocket money and extra possible frustrations and just have it fixed right. If it doesn't cost out of your pocket, maybe upgrade to the TF30 and a different bumper. Other than that, might be just asking for trouble.


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post #7 of 22 Old 01-14-2014, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Expected response coming from someone by the username of Tight_wad. But that is the way I am leaning more and more as I think about it. And the realistic uses of this vehicle in the future.

According to this site. The rubicon 44 front with 3.73 gears is $2,600 so $200 more "out of pocket"
http://www.moparpartsstore.com/oem-p...ssy/68088917ab
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post #8 of 22 Old 01-14-2014, 12:12 PM
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post #9 of 22 Old 01-14-2014, 12:29 PM
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where are you located? i have a front axle, driveshafts, etc i would sell you.....alot cheaper then that..

i have the rear to match, both 4.10 gears.
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post #10 of 22 Old 01-14-2014, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrupper View Post
where are you located? i have a front axle, driveshafts, etc i would sell you.....alot cheaper then that..

i have the rear to match, both 4.10 gears.
Where are you, what axles do you have and how much?

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post #11 of 22 Old 01-14-2014, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PYAGID View Post
Expected response coming from someone by the username of Tight_wad. But that is the way I am leaning more and more as I think about it. And the realistic uses of this vehicle in the future.

According to this site. The rubicon 44 front with 3.73 gears is $2,600 so $200 more "out of pocket"
http://www.moparpartsstore.com/oem-p...ssy/68088917ab
That seems like a great deal and I would definitely do it for $200 out of pocket. If you ever get into wheeling, that locker will be a nice feature. The housing is weaker than an aftermarket housing, but can easily be upgraded down the road for a few hundred to increase the strength.

Bumper seems like a no-brainer - get what you want.

And I haven't heard many reviews on the AGR steering box. This might be a smart move, but make sure you order it with the correct steering ratio. I heard that they have 4:1 where the stock box is 3.33:1


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post #12 of 22 Old 01-21-2014, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
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Well, the appraiser went to look at it again yesterday. And said a control arm mount is bent. On an older car he would suggest it to be fixed, but this is a new car so he would suggest a new frame. And that will put it into the total loss category...........
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post #13 of 22 Old 01-21-2014, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PYAGID View Post
Well, the appraiser went to look at it again yesterday. And said a control arm mount is bent. On an older car he would suggest it to be fixed, but this is a new car so he would suggest a new frame. And that will put it into the total loss category...........
Trade for a long arm kit and call it even!


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post #14 of 22 Old 01-21-2014, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
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That is sort of the goal
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post #15 of 22 Old 01-21-2014, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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I can not seem to talk them out of totaling it. The total loss damage is the lower control arm mount, welds tore off the frame a little. I could probably fix it with a C-clamp and welder. but the appraiser is insisting it needs a new frame. Everything else is perfectly square.
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post #16 of 22 Old 01-21-2014, 12:33 PM
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So, have you asked them what the buy back is? I know (2nd hand) that in Indiana, if you do the buy back, title never changes, so never becomes a salvage title.
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post #17 of 22 Old 01-21-2014, 12:53 PM
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Ask about "buy the total back" and let us know what it is. I probably would go the "buy back" route and then build it the way I want and buy a daily Driver truck.

2010 JKUR, 4" Pro C., 3/4" f Daystar spacer, 5.38's, EVO sleeve/gusset/custom trussed, Rear Ten Factory axle shafts, 1.5" wheel spacers, Pro C. 17 x 9 wheels, 38 x 14.50 x 17 MTR's, SuperChip FP, no fenders, B&M Tranny cooler, Magnaflow, Fr./ Rr. frame hacked off, HD Balls

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post #18 of 22 Old 01-21-2014, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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I have thought about that.

They are estimating salvage value at $15k but he was not sure and will get me that info.

If I could afford to pay off the vehicle, buy it back, and build it I will 100% do that. But I don't have any extra money to put into it.
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post #19 of 22 Old 01-21-2014, 01:20 PM
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Totaled value - Salvage value = check they write you

And there is your repair money.

15k is probably pretty fair, but see if they will do a little less on the salvage, its an estimate. Saves them time and money if they deal with you. And make sure that they know that you will do it as long as it remains a clear title, not a salvage title.
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post #20 of 22 Old 01-21-2014, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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I agree. I will see what they come at me with for numbers.

But if it comes in at 15k, after paying off my loan on it, I won't be left with any money for repairs / upgrades.

So as of right now, it looks like I am ordering another one soon.
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post #21 of 22 Old 01-21-2014, 04:19 PM
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If it doesn't get a salvage title you could refinance it to get the extra dollars to complete it.

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post #22 of 22 Old 01-21-2014, 05:01 PM
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weird they are totaling it, a shop we tow cars to alot just did a frame swap on a 13, was hi tthen tipped on side , i did nt see the body before it was fixed but the frame had so little damage, mine prob has more from wheeling.

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