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post #1 of 4 Old 01-10-2014, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Lift measurements Q?

So I've had 3" Full Traction HD lift f/r for the last 5 yrs. When I first got them I was rolling 315/70r17s & using stock flares, stubby winch bumper w/winch, stock rear bumper with the spare on the back. Initially I got about 4" of lift. After they settled, I'm still sitting at 3" of lift. With 35s and stock flare it worked great on the trails.

Now I'm on 37s with tube fenders. I have about 9" of clearance between the rear tire and fender/sheet metal. In the front, I have about 8" of clearance. Even with 37s, it seems like a lot of empty space to me.

My bumpstops are about 1.75" front and rear. I can really really stuff/flex out the suspension. I have about 1/4" from full compression on the shocks. Thinking of lowering my lift with some Rock Krawler triple rate springs. Maybe the 2.5" - OR - go LCOG with the 1.5" springs and a frame notch for my DL flip. Even with 37s, it seems like a lot of empty space to me.



So my question to you all is, how much clearance do you have between your tires and fenders?
Might be a stupid question / consideration, but the gap between my fenders and tires just seems like a lot.


This pic is with 315s and stock flares. The droop is enough for the springs to fall out... they actually did the first time I went through this spot. Big ass zip ties worked great.



Will try to get recent pics of the tube fenders and 37s.

** I do have a pretty complete frankenlift: ADJ upper/lower control arms, SS brakelines, bumpstops, etc, etc.

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Last edited by jkx0778; 01-10-2014 at 08:18 AM. Reason: added pic
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post #2 of 4 Old 01-10-2014, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkx0778 View Post
So I've had 3" Full Traction HD lift f/r for the last 5 yrs. When I first got them I was rolling 315/70r17s & using stock flares, stubby winch bumper w/winch, stock rear bumper with the spare on the back. Initially I got about 4" of lift. After they settled, I'm still sitting at 3" of lift. With 35s and stock flare it worked great on the trails.

Now I'm on 37s with tube fenders. I have about 9" of clearance between the rear tire and fender/sheet metal. In the front, I have about 8" of clearance. Even with 37s, it seems like a lot of empty space to me.

My bumpstops are about 1.75" front and rear. I can really really stuff/flex out the suspension. I have about 1/4" from full compression on the shocks. Thinking of lowering my lift with some Rock Krawler triple rate springs. Maybe the 2.5" - OR - go LCOG with the 1.5" springs and a frame notch for my DL flip. Even with 37s, it seems like a lot of empty space to me.



So my question to you all is, how much clearance do you have between your tires and fenders?
Might be a stupid question / consideration, but the gap between my fenders and tires just seems like a lot.


This pic is with 315s and stock flares. The droop is enough for the springs to fall out... they actually did the first time I went through this spot. Big ass zip ties worked great.



Will try to get recent pics of the tube fenders and 37s.

** I do have a pretty complete frankenlift: ADJ upper/lower control arms, SS brakelines, bumpstops, etc, etc.
More than anything it sounds you need much shorter shocks (around 3-4") or limit straps because if your springs are falling out by the 3-4" it takes to have the front coils fall out the buckets that is a big issue in my opinion. Not sure on the free length of your FT 3" springs but if you go with a dual rate or triple rate normally the coils are a bit longer for a given lift height. But going down to a 2.5 or 1.5 spring even a dual or triple rate you are likely going to make your spring unseating issue the same or worse than you have now. How badly are the rears unseating?

Last edited by Terminator2; 01-10-2014 at 10:35 AM.
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post #3 of 4 Old 01-10-2014, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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rear springs stay in the buckets because the rear droop is limited by the swaybar and shocks.

In the front the shocks & brake lines are for 4"-6" lift. I wanted max droop and stuffage. The shocks haven't bottomed out unless I'm bouncing the front end (like dropping off a ledge too fast). I was thinking of changing shocks, but wanted to wait until I blew one or they were leaking pretty good. If I change springs, I'm planning on changing shocks too.

I'm more just curious how much clearance others have between their tires and fenders.

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post #4 of 4 Old 01-10-2014, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkx0778 View Post
rear springs stay in the buckets because the rear droop is limited by the swaybar and shocks.

In the front the shocks & brake lines are for 4"-6" lift. I wanted max droop and stuffage. The shocks haven't bottomed out unless I'm bouncing the front end (like dropping off a ledge too fast). I was thinking of changing shocks, but wanted to wait until I blew one or they were leaking pretty good. If I change springs, I'm planning on changing shocks too.

I'm more just curious how much clearance others have between their tires and fenders.
Got you, but before you go buying new springs make sure you know how long they are (you may have to measure them yourself) and how long your shocks need to be to keep the springs seated. No sense in having BS droop with no sprung weight on the axle because it can be dangerous.

How much uptravel (shock shaft is showing) at 3" of lift (should not be 8-9" worth of up travel avaliable at only 3" of lift although wheel travel and shock travel can be different). What are the extended and collapsed lengths of your front and rear shocks? That does seem like a lot of room above for only 3" actual lift. Whose fenders are you running? One thing to consider: If you lower your lift especially to a 1.5" lift you will be dragging the belly and bumpers more if that is an issue on the trails you run. I know the 4 doors around here get hung up a lot on some of the steep clay hills we have. I drag belly and bumpers with my 2 door sometimes on the trails behind my house and I have 5.5" actual lift (I have the 22.6"/ 19.55" long currie springs on my stock weight 2 door).
If I were you, and you want to keep that amount of droop but attain it safely by keeping the springs seated, I would try to find longer free length springs close to your initial lift height. The longest springs I know of that give a reasonable amount of lift are the ones I have on my 2 door. They are Currie 4" JKU springs and are 22.6" long front and 19.55" long rear and would give about the same lift as you had initially (4" average on a JKU like you had to begin with) and allow you to keep your front springs seated more than likely (unless shocks are more than 30.5" extended length) and allow for longer rear shocks if you wanted to run them (up to 29.5" ended length) along with longer sway bar links in the rear to allow more droop without flipping the sway bar over.

Last edited by Terminator2; 01-10-2014 at 01:30 PM.
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