'13 JKUR E locker sucks - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-03-2014, 03:34 AM Thread Starter
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'13 JKUR E locker sucks

My boss and I both have '13 jkur ' s for a year now. I have been to the sand dunes several times and used my E lockers. A month ago my boss was hunting and doing some 2 tracking and got into some mud and got stuck. Pushed his locker button and would not engage, had to be pulled out. We'll tonight on my way into work decided to take some back roads and play in the 12" of drifting snow we got. Found a unplowed road and did great for the first few miles then started to lose momentum but still doing good. Ended up coming to a stop and backed up fine but thought I would lock the axles for extra insurance. Nothing but blinking lights.....WTF? Mind you I was in high but have bulldog gt tuner that let's me bypass and have used it several times without failure. Temp is 5 deg. But that shouldn't have been an issue. Was able to get out with no problem but pisses me off that it wouldn't work when I needed it. I will put it low range and see what happens when I get out of work but wondered if anyone else has had any issues?
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-03-2014, 06:16 AM
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missed the part about the tuner the first time, but maybe its the tuner itself?
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-03-2014, 02:33 PM
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Don't you have to lock the lockers using the tuner? Not sure how the tuner works but I have the wired bypass in mine and I know when in high range the light just blinks. as soon as I shift into low the lights go solid.

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post #4 of 13 Old 01-03-2014, 02:35 PM
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Tuner just allows lockers at any speed and in 2hi or 4 hi mime would always flash but would actually engage. Time to get arb

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post #5 of 13 Old 01-03-2014, 02:54 PM
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Unless you specifically override it with a programmer they will only lock in 4 low.

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post #6 of 13 Old 01-03-2014, 04:09 PM
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Yeah, I'm not sure the issue wasn't the tuner. There's a way to simply bypass the circuits and wire the system to work in any t-case position. I'll post if I can find it.

The Tru-Loc diffs are doing very well in the real world, very few broken. One issue with engagement with some of the earliest ones, solved by putting a D60 shim behind the actuator to deepen the tooth engagement.

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post #7 of 13 Old 01-03-2014, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abadjeeper View Post
Don't you have to lock the lockers using the tuner? Not sure how the tuner works but I have the wired bypass in mine and I know when in high range the light just blinks. as soon as I shift into low the lights go solid.
Pretty sure when I use my Diablosport Trinity to lock axles in 4hi the locker lights only blink and don't light solid. Not totally positive but going on memory.

OP...did you verify that your locker(s) were definitely not engaged or were you just going off of the blinking light?

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post #8 of 13 Old 01-03-2014, 04:53 PM
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So you posted that the locker sucks but have not actually verified wether it was or was not working?
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-03-2014, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for replies. Thinking back on my dune trips I would run 4 low. I have to change oil next week. I will engage lockers in high while wheels are off ground and verify. TCdawg posted his blink but are engaged so I will investigate. I was going off the dash lights. Still does not explain why my bosses bone stock didn't work in time of need, would have saved him a tow. Had just one in front and rear pulling.
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post #10 of 13 Old 01-03-2014, 06:45 PM
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Was he in 4 low? On my 2008 they have worked great for me thus far. I leave them unlocked on the trail and only engage them when I can't easily get up something open/open. A lot of switching the lockers on/off for me when I'm wheeling and never an issue.

I thought I had a problem with my sway bar disconnect until I realized that it automatically tried to reconnect the sway bar once you hit 25-30mph. Oops, but once the thing finally fails I'll be swapping to an Anti-rock anyway so I'm not too worried about it.

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post #11 of 13 Old 01-03-2014, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Dutch, yes he was in low range. Guess it doesn't matter to much for him, we are Chrysler employees. He is salary and gets to pick his vehicles to "review" and is getting ready to order a '15 Rubicon X for his next company lease.
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post #12 of 13 Old 01-04-2014, 07:20 AM
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Sometimes you have to give them a second to lock in or even let the tire spins a small amount so that it can lock up. I've noticed that with my front more than my rear.

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post #13 of 13 Old 01-06-2014, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
Sometimes you have to give them a second to lock in or even let the tire spins a small amount so that it can lock up. I've noticed that with my front more than my rear.
Mine have always engaged just fine, but if in a turn they will bind on disconnect and take a bit to disengage. I suspect this would be the case with any selectable since it's a mechanical friction issue.

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