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post #1 of 30 Old 08-12-2009, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Engine oil analysis and why it can be a good idea.

Alright folks, I'm new round these parts but I want to assure you that I have a good head on my shoulders and will always do my best to share my ideas and opinions with any of you.

That said, I did a search and didn't find jack so I wanted to throw out something called "Engine Oil Analysis". Mods, if I missed it and a thread already exists, kindly merge. Thanks.

On to the skinny.

For those of you that don't know what engine oil analysis is, it is a range of tests you can run on your used motor oil that will assist you in determining signs of premature wear, leaks and other ongoing and sometimes otherwise undetectable problems. Coming from a military background and being well school in preventative vehicle maintenance, I am quite familiar with annual and/semi-annual oil analysis. FWIW, you can also have this type of test conducted on your transmission and transfer case.

I have had my JK Wrangler for just over a year and have managed to rack up 39,000 miles. Seeing as this is a daily driver, I have a long daily commute, wheel it regularly and really aint all that confident that my "lifetime drivetrain warranty" is worth the paper it's written on, I want to be sure I'm taking the best care of my Jeep as I possibly can. SO! I sent my 38k oil change off after 4200 miles on it and had it tested using a standard analysis.

The standard engine oil analysis consists of a spectral exam, viscosity check, insolubles check and flash point check.

A spectral exam checks the levels of wear metals, silicon, and additives present in the oil as well as the presence of coolant. This test can tell you if your bearings are wearing prematurely or if you have an internal leak (such as head gasket).

A viscosity check, of course, determines the grade of the oil. Viscosity can degrade as the oil wears. This test will tell you if you can extend out your change interval or maybe you need to change it more often than you are.

Insolubles quantifies the percentage of solids present in the oil indicating how well your engine is filtering both the oil and the air it ingests.

Flash Point determines the flash point of the oil. This is used to determine whether any contamination is present in the oil and is determined when the flash is lower than it should be.

Now this is all VERY good information to have as your engine begins to rack up the miles and if it is done on a regular basis, can help you diagnose engine problems LOOONG before they result in a critical breakdown.

There are assuredly innumerable laboratories out there that can do this for you and I certainly cannot recommend any single one of them, however I can tell you that I am currently using Blackstone Labs and am happy with their service and reporting procedures. I mailed off my sample on Friday last week (USPS) and today in my email I have a PDF of the results and they will be sending a hardcopy via snailmail.

On that note, this is what they had to say (synopsis, the actual values were listed in a table I won't include here)

"Based on data from this initial analysis of oil from your 3.8L, this engine appears to be in good shape. Universal averages show typical wear levels for this type of engine after about 5,000 miles on the oil. This oil was in use a little less than that and wear metals are very much in line with averages, some reading better than average. Insolubles, which are oxidized solids caused by heat, use, and blow-by, read low at 0.2%, showing good oil filtration and no combustion problems. No fuel, coolant, or water was noted. Try 6K miles on the next fill of oil."


Happy Jeepin!

Last edited by scottrock; 08-12-2009 at 05:08 PM.
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post #2 of 30 Old 08-12-2009, 05:24 PM
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very good idea and info there Scott, I think I will do that on my next change. What kinda container did you send it off in?


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post #3 of 30 Old 08-12-2009, 05:28 PM
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Here's who I use:

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

They'll send you the first kit free.

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post #4 of 30 Old 08-12-2009, 05:29 PM
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What kind of weight of oil is that? I think I'm switching to Synthetic on my next change, that will be 21k. If you don't mind, how much did that cost also?

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post #5 of 30 Old 08-12-2009, 05:35 PM
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they must send the free kit by stage coach, 1-2wks it will be delievered in


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post #6 of 30 Old 08-12-2009, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Here's who I use:

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

They'll send you the first kit free.
Yup, I mentioned them at the end of my post. Good service first time around

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What kind of weight of oil is that? I think I'm switching to Synthetic on my next change, that will be 21k. If you don't mind, how much did that cost also?
That was junk oil from a SunTire (whatever they use) 5W/30. I typically go to the dealer (work reimburses, why not) for my oil changes but I was leaving on a trip and the local dealership service department has been slammed lately so it takes half a day to get a damn oil change.

I have never been a big fan of synthetic and change my oil very frequently. My last Ford Ranger had over 250,000 miles on it and it was running strong when I traded in on the Jeep. The Toyota pickup before that had 350,000 on the speedometer before it broke (the speedo). Then I drove it another two and a half years. Did I mention I average 50,000 miles a year?

Like most anything else mechanical, if you take care of it, IE: don't beat the **** out of it, keep it clean and keep it lubed, it will last.
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they must send the free kit by stage coach, 1-2wks it will be delievered in
Yeah but they send you the kit, free, and there is no time limit to when you send it back. Keep it for a year, they don't care. Get one now and be ready for your next oil change. The way you drive that thing you need it
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post #8 of 30 Old 08-12-2009, 05:55 PM
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Yeah but they send you the kit, free, and there is no time limit to when you send it back. Keep it for a year, they don't care. Get one now and be ready for your next oil change. The way you drive that thing you need it
I gotta change it soon, how much do you have to send them? quart or less?


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post #9 of 30 Old 08-12-2009, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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I gotta change it soon, how much do you have to send them? quart or less?
Just a few ounces. The bottle was small, like 2 1/2" high. They send you the bottle and the mailer to return it to them. I just asked the oil change dude to do it and he didn't have a problem. Even was sure to get it in the middle of the drain like he's supposed to.
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post #10 of 30 Old 08-13-2009, 11:00 AM
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If you're going to all that trouble cut open your filter too.

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If you're going to all that trouble cut open your filter too.
It's really not alot of trouble. The lab mails you the kit (for free), you fill with your used oil when you change it, mail it in provided mailer (postage was $1.59) and include a check for the desired tests.

Besides large particulates, cutting the filter open isn't going to show much of anything. And honestly if you can see metal in your filter, there are already major problems. Unless you're lucky, typically by that time it's too late to do much except teardown and rebuild.

If caught early, head gaskets and bearings can be replaced without the preceding failure and a subsequent rebuild of the engine. One is much cheaper than the other

$20 bucks once or twice a year for a true analysis is worth the piece of mind it gives me. Not to mention, I now know that I can safely go that 6,000 miles between oil changes. And THAT is a direct savings that your wallet will feel.
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post #12 of 30 Old 08-13-2009, 12:04 PM
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Awesome idea. I'm going to check this out. I'll need an oil change probably in 3 months so I'll just get he kit now and pray I can find it then.

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Awesome idea. I'm going to check this out. I'll need an oil change probably in 3 months so I'll just get he kit now and pray I can find it then.
I just threw mine in the glovebox until I needed it
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It's really not alot of trouble. The lab mails you the kit (for free), you fill with your used oil when you change it, mail it in provided mailer (postage was $1.59) and include a check for the desired tests.

Besides large particulates, cutting the filter open isn't going to show much of anything. And honestly if you can see metal in your filter, there are already major problems. Unless you're lucky, typically by that time it's too late to do much except teardown and rebuild.

If caught early, head gaskets and bearings can be replaced without the preceding failure and a subsequent rebuild of the engine. One is much cheaper than the other

$20 bucks once or twice a year for a true analysis is worth the piece of mind it gives me. Not to mention, I now know that I can safely go that 6,000 miles between oil changes. And THAT is a direct savings that your wallet will feel.
Use a magnet to comb filter medium.

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post #15 of 30 Old 08-26-2009, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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FYI, Blackstone must be wantin return business as I just recieved a double sample kit in the mail, unsolicited and at no charge. So one went in the glove and one went in the garage

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post #16 of 30 Old 12-20-2010, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Back to the top with this folks.

I recently rolled over 80,000 miles on my 3.8 and sticking to a 40k analysis interval, I sent in an oil sample to Blackstone Labs.

I have been sticking pretty close to a 6,000 mile change interval for the last 40k but this last time, I pushed it a little further due to bad timing, cold weather, busy life, etc... you know how it goes. Anyhow, I ran it out to 6,877 miles and had to add one quart of Gate brand 5W-30 at around 6k.

The report included a complete breakdown of elements by PPM as well as the results of the flashpoint and viscosity levels that I won't add here (it's in PDF tabulated format is a PITA to copy & paste) but did want to add the report synopsis. If anyone wants to see what the report looks like, PM me your email address & I will forward it to you.

"You ran this oil out to 6,877 miles, and wear metals are still at below average levels for the most
part. The low wear is an excellent indication that no mechanical problems are developing inside your engine.
The viscosity was within the normal range for a 5W/30 oil, and no fuel, coolant, or moisture was present.
The low silicon shows that the air filter is working properly, and the 0.3% insolubles indicates the oil filter is
separating solid particles out of the circulating oil, as it should. No problems found at 81,931 miles. Try going
8,500 miles on the next fill and check back."


Not sure that I'll go 8,500 miles between changes as I approach 100,000 miles but it does let me know that occasionally going over 6k isn't hurting anything. IMO, considering how much I drive (I've owned this rig since new, July 08) it's $25 well spent for peace of mind knowing my motor is not on it's way out.




Edit: and now that I AM approaching 100k, I will start looking at the oil more often, probably every other change, or around every 12-14k miles.

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post #17 of 30 Old 12-20-2010, 03:05 PM
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Thats cool to know on the service intervals, but what are your plans if they come back and say there are signs of wear? Just change the oil more frequently? Tear the motor down? Eat bacon?

I think it's cool to know the intended interval, I do keep mine at 5,000 and that should cover 'normal' and 'abusing' situations (summer heat/wheelin, hard driving). But I think if someone came back and said your engine is wearing, there isn't a whole lot I'd really do about it..

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Scott not to hijack to far off topic but we just broke the 80k mark too and I'm curious how long you've been running the 5w30. I settled on a 4500 mile change interval because the 5w20 (no matter which brand I've tried) begins to look pretty dark and seems thin by 6000 miles.

Just ordered my sample kit, we'll see what they have to say in a few weeks.

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post #19 of 30 Old 12-20-2010, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thats cool to know on the service intervals, but what are your plans if they come back and say there are signs of wear? Just change the oil more frequently? Tear the motor down? Eat bacon?

I think it's cool to know the intended interval, I do keep mine at 5,000 and that should cover 'normal' and 'abusing' situations (summer heat/wheelin, hard driving). But I think if someone came back and said your engine is wearing, there isn't a whole lot I'd really do about it..
To each his own dude. Knowing I have a bearing failing (metals in the oil) or rings wearing, bad injector (either can cause fuel in the oil that will wash down bearings) or a head gasket leak (engine go BOOM) gives me a fighting chance to plan a tear down/repair rather than be left on the side of the road 500 miles from home. I dirve all over the state, out of state, etc, etc. Hell I'm driving from St Augustine to Key West and back this weekend. This is my DD but I have other options should unforeseen circumstances arise. Should I need to tear it down, take it off the road for a week or two, I can do that.

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Scott not to hijack to far off topic but we just broke the 80k mark too and I'm curious how long you've been running the 5w30. I settled on a 4500 mile change interval because the 5w20 (no matter which brand I've tried) begins to look pretty dark and seems thin by 6000 miles.

Just ordered my sample kit, we'll see what they have to say in a few weeks.
I've ran 5/30 from the get-go. I did run 10/30 a few times but I try to stick with the 5/30. I've always used either dealer dino juice or Castrol GTX conventional oil. Recently (last 24k) I have stuck with the Castrol High Mileage.

And yes it looks dark at around 5k but I'm more concerned with how it smells. As long as it doesn't smell burnt or scorched, I'll run it.


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post #20 of 30 Old 12-20-2010, 03:34 PM
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To each his own dude. Knowing I have a bearing failing (metals in the oil) or rings wearing, bad injector (either can cause fuel in the oil that will wash down bearings) or a head gasket leak (engine go BOOM) gives me a fighting chance to plan a tear down/repair rather than be left on the side of the road 500 miles from home. I dirve all over the state, out of state, etc, etc. Hell I'm driving from St Augustine to Key West and back this weekend. This is my DD but I have other options should unforeseen circumstances arise. Should I need to tear it down, take it off the road for a week or two, I can do that.
Sounds good, just not what I'm after. I figure a head gasket will blow white smoke or have obvious signs in the oil (mmmm Milkshake). Fuel injector will cause rich faults/check engine light, and an obviously fuel smelling oil. Bearings you can either see the metal in the oil, or you could inspect the filter if you felt., but I rather just run it until it quits then! I've yet to have an engine just die on me due to a catastrophe, so I can't say I feel vulnerable. But if it makes you comfortable,

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Sounds good, just not what I'm after. I figure a head gasket will blow white smoke or have obvious signs in the oil (mmmm Milkshake). Fuel injector will cause rich faults/check engine light, and an obviously fuel smelling oil. Bearings you can either see the metal in the oil, or you could inspect the filter if you felt., but I rather just run it until it quits then! I've yet to have an engine just die on me due to a catastrophe, so I can't say I feel vulnerable. But if it makes you comfortable,
Yup, all that's true but sometimes you can catch it early. And yeah, I might be a bit paranoid about it as I have been left stranded on several occasions early in my life

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post #22 of 30 Old 12-20-2010, 07:51 PM
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If you are into that you should go over bob the oil guy forum……they all go nuts over their data down there cutting their filter and almost tasting their oil each change.

Seriously speaking, these so call tests just make you paranoid good maintenance and common sense will give you the same result. I like to keep my engine clean to, this way I can spot any leak right away.

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post #23 of 30 Old 12-20-2010, 10:18 PM
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I used to do the analysis with black stone when my '96 Impala SS was my daily driver. I used top of the line oil (German Castrol 0W-30 when it was Green) and was receiving awsome reports and then not long after I got one of my usual glowing UOA's I spun a bearing. You can search my user name over at BITOG (Bob Is The Oil Guy) and probably come across the incident. After that I don't put much stock in them anymore.
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I used to do the analysis with black stone when my '96 Impala SS was my daily driver. I used top of the line oil (German Castrol 0W-30 when it was Green) and was receiving awsome reports and then not long after I got one of my usual glowing UOA's I spun a bearing. You can search my user name over at BITOG (Bob Is The Oil Guy) and probably come across the incident. After that I don't put much stock in them anymore.

Let me guess some people did say you should have use Pennzoil ultra lol, instead of Castrol to save your bearing. BITOG make you feel paranoid with all these test and their review of the result.

Winter is coming.
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post #25 of 30 Old 12-21-2010, 01:47 AM
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Thanks scott, the stealershinp has me bring mine in every 3,000 to change, but you are going 6,000. I wonder why that is?


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