Okay, let's back up here and have you recheck everything all over again first. I know you've probably already done this a hundred times but go again just to be sure. And what lift kit are you running so we know.
With the jeep sitting on the ground, start it and have someone wiggle your steering wheel back and forth just enough to put movement on all the steering joints while you look for any excess movement in one or all.
I usually start at the pitman arm to see if it's loose on the sector shaft, then the upper drag link end where it connects to the pitman arm, then down the drag link to the upper knuckle, then drop down to the tie rod passenger side tre then drivers side tre. Note any movement you find. Remember, even the tiniest amount of movement will be magnified while driving so a little movement in every joint amounts to a shit ton of movement while in motion.
If necessary, retorque all the tre's to spec.
Factory drag link tre to pitman arm = 77lbs.
Factory drag link tre to knuckle = 63lbs.
Factory tie rod tre's to knuckle = 63lbs.
With aftermarket tre's, torque to suggested spec. On all tre's, tighten to spec, then tighten the castle nut until you can install the cotter pin.
On old or worn tre's, sometimes you have to go just a little more in order to get them to seat and stay put (not much more though!). Just for shit's and giggles I would remove the pitman arm, clean the threads and apply red locktite then torque the bolt down to 185lbs. You will probably have to remove the trackbar to do this.
From there check the track bar or panhard to see if it's got any play. Most folks start here because it's one of the bigger culprits (and again, you already addressed this one), but recheck it anyway. Not only should you be looking for play in the bushings, but also check play in the bolt holes. Again, a little play = a lot on the road. If there is play in the bolt holes then you'll have to address this accordingly. Make sure the bolts are torqued down to 125lbs on both frame and axle side.
Now, I've seen a few videos of the Teraflex trackbar having lots of flex while driving, which can account for some excess movement. Not saying this is happening but I do recall it being a problem for some people. Just something to think about. I don't recommend running a Currie front or rear trackbar due to their weak bushings on frame side. I have had more problems with the bushing ripping in half than I care to talk about. Love the JJ at axle side, but again, frame side sucks ass because it's simply too thin to hold up under any substantial, continued use.
Now go back to your steering box and recheck the sector shaft for side to side movement. I find that there is always a little play in the sector shaft regardless of the type of box you have. I currently run a PSC box and I'm shocked at how much play there is (which is why I recommend running the sector shaft brace even with hydro assist; to keep play to a minimum). You already retorqued the steering gearbox bolts to 70lbs? so it should be good. Look for flex in the frame also (it can happen). With the long ass sector shaft we have in our gearbox, there's a lot of force pushing and pulling against the frame so it's not out of the question that the frame can weaken causing movement even if the bolts are tight. This isn't a common thing but even in the older TJ, YJ, LJ's, etc. the steering box braces ran bars from one side of the frame to the other (similar to the JKS ssb) in order to give a little more stability.
Ok, so now move on to your bj's. Jack the jeep up and place the front axle on jack stands so the weight of the jeep is resting on them. You only need to raise the tires about 3-4" off the ground. Then put a big ass pry bar under one tire at a time and raise it up and down. It helps if you have someone to do this for you while you inspect the bj's for play. There shouldn't be any play. If there is then you should replace them. As someone else said, try the Synergy bj's. For the money they seem to be pretty good. There are a few out there that have worn them out pretty quickly but for the most part it seems like everyone is having good luck with them. We install lots of them and haven't had any issues to date.
So what to check after that? Go to your control arms, both upper and lower. Again, I know you already did this and changed out the upper bushings. I assume your control arms are aftermarket? What brand and what type of joints do they run? Loosen the mounting bolts and look for play in the bracket holes just like we did on the trackbar. If there is play then you need to address this. Either by changing the bolts out from metric to standard or by repairing the worn mounting holes. If there is play in these bolts it's not likely to cause dw but will cause other issues as it allows your axle to move front to back while driving depending on how loose the mounting bolts are. Check torque on the control arms putting 75lbs on the upper bolts and 125lbs on the lower bolts.
Other things to check; The three bolts holding your knuckles on. Torque them to 75lbs. Loosen up your axle shaft nut then retighten it to 100lbs.
Now to alignment. Check your toe in and start at about 1/8" in. May need more with your lift and tire size but 1/8" is a good starting point.
Pinion angle and caster. These two are directly related for us as we have no ability to independently adjust these. With a lift as high as yours is you will probably have to make some steering compromises. If your pinion is too low your gonna have a lot of vibrations coming from your ds and this may explain why your yoke is coming loose. Since you already took care of the yoke issue, I'd start by raising your pinion and see if you can get your caster somewhere around 5.5-6 as a starting point. That's really high but so is your lift. With positive caster, road variations will have minimal effect on the tires (as much as you can anyway with such extreme geometry). With any luck your ds vibrations will be minimized, but also have your shaft balanced and/or rebuilt to rule out those related issues.
If you ultimately decide to go with another axle, you will be able to get your caster adjusted much easier by having it corrected upon fabrication to suit your requirements.
You will need to address your lower trackbar issue and I guess you will need to make a decision on how you want to do that. If you decide to keep your existing axle then all you really need to do is get a new raised trackbar bracket. I suggest a weld on v/s a bolt on but you will have to choose whichever you can manage.
Tell us how you saw flex in your axle. Typically we don't see perceptible movement there unless something is terribly wrong. Are you seeing movement where the tubes insert into the diff? If so are the plug welds busted loose? Or are you actually watching the axle move or bow up and down? Explain the flex if you can.
If the axle is good and you want to strengthen it, you can always install a truss as well as C-gussets. We really like Artec products. You can get a heavy duty raised trackbar bracket from them too but with 6" you may need to go a little higher than what they have in stock for the JK. Of course this really depends on how much lift your 6" lift actually gives you. I'd give them a call and discuss it a little and see what they can come up with for you. They really have great prices and quality products. This is of course just my opinion so take it for what it's worth (not much...lol).
Well for now that should give you about 15 minutes worth of shit to check. Good luck and let us know how things go. Hope this helps just a little...
Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!
I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...