Sector shaft play, steering box on frame movement - what to do? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 34 Old 09-30-2013, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Sector shaft play, steering box on frame movement - what to do?

I have been searching for a good answer but unsure what to do.

The problem. Wobble in steering wheel that was death wobble. I have replaced everything in my setup just about. Bj's track bar bushings, control arm bushings ( just upper arms to be checked and serviced), drag link that I had for the flip. Tires rebalanced and alignment check which helped. In spring I put on the ruff stuff tr and gm1ton tre's. Currie rear track bar is fine.

What's left to do - checking upper control arms, figure out what to do about steering box.

The dilemma - I have the teraflex monster trackbar. Running 37's. I find play in the steering box sector shft and I believe I see movement on the steering box to frame. Bolts appear to be tight but I want to torque check those.

I was looking for a ssb but looks like I need a trackbar to work with that? Do I even need a ssb? Maybe I should get ram assist and be done? Or should I get ssb double shear and a used box or rebuild my current box?

I will go ram assist one day. I miss tight steering.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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post #2 of 34 Old 09-30-2013, 09:22 AM
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Facing the same exact problem. Replaced my track bar and drag link ends. BJs are good and tie rod joints look good as well.

I was looking at replacing/rebuilding the steering box but I figure that with 37s if this happened once, it will probably happen again so I am looking at going hydro assist. Figure in the long run, it will be cheaper and smarter than rebuilding boxes over and over.

Cant remember the vendor, but one on here makes a brace for the sector shaft.


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post #3 of 34 Old 09-30-2013, 09:39 AM
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IDK if it will help, but here's some of the things I found when dealing with the same issues.

I had very bad DW starting in May last year. I replaced BJ's, axle and frame TB brackets, tie rod and drag link, trackbar, sold my D30 and built a D44 with new everything, added hydro assist (DIY) and a sector shaft brace, and still get a flutter when I hit bumps. Never feels like DW anymore, but I can see the tires flutter a good deal when the road gets bumpy. All adding the sector shaft brace did was tighten up the feel in the wheel.... now I can feel when the tires flutter. I use the synergy trackbar, frame bracket, and sector shaft brace combo.

I tried removing the box and resetting the internal backlash (per spec), and did see some improvement, but still some flutter going on.

The only other thing's I can suspect is unit bearings (which I can't find any play in) or completely rebuilding my steering box (about $50 in parts from WTO for new bearings and seals on the delphi box). Or possibly my pump isn't putting out peak pressure?

Also, the teraflex TB was one of the ones I tried when first replacing things. It doenst work with highsteer and 3" or less of bump. The bend hits the sector shaft.

-Mike
2007 2dr X, 6sp, 35's on D44's, 2" lift, cage, hydro, etc.
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post #4 of 34 Old 09-30-2013, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
Facing the same exact problem. Replaced my track bar and drag link ends. BJs are good and tie rod joints look good as well.

I was looking at replacing/rebuilding the steering box but I figure that with 37s if this happened once, it will probably happen again so I am looking at going hydro assist. Figure in the long run, it will be cheaper and smarter than rebuilding boxes over and over.

Cant remember the vendor, but one on here makes a brace for the sector shaft.
So ssb and hydro assist.

Redneck ram kit and exchange steering box is 500$

DIY ram is a lot of work with a shit steering box $300 and ssb and trackbar brace $200 same price really.

Redneck ram is easier I think though.

Should really have a brace as well perhaps. If I get the ssb then I need a new trackbar as well. I have a monster tf panhard bar.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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post #5 of 34 Old 09-30-2013, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKred07 View Post
IDK if it will help, but here's some of the things I found when dealing with the same issues.

I had very bad DW starting in May last year. I replaced BJ's, axle and frame TB brackets, tie rod and drag link, trackbar, sold my D30 and built a D44 with new everything, added hydro assist (DIY) and a sector shaft brace, and still get a flutter when I hit bumps. Never feels like DW anymore, but I can see the tires flutter a good deal when the road gets bumpy. All adding the sector shaft brace did was tighten up the feel in the wheel.... now I can feel when the tires flutter. I use the synergy trackbar, frame bracket, and sector shaft brace combo.

I tried removing the box and resetting the internal backlash (per spec), and did see some improvement, but still some flutter going on.

The only other thing's I can suspect is unit bearings (which I can't find any play in) or completely rebuilding my steering box (about $50 in parts from WTO for new bearings and seals on the delphi box). Or possibly my pump isn't putting out peak pressure?

Also, the teraflex TB was one of the ones I tried when first replacing things. It doenst work with highsteer and 3" or less of bump. The bend hits the sector shaft.
That does help for sure. Wow all that and you run 3" lift? It's helps to here that I shouldn't expect to have it fixed with the ssb or hydro steer. It work fine with this setup before lifted 4" then coincidently it exposed all the suspension wear when lift more. I love the jku with 6" lift by the way and I am not going back. I will make this work.


But now I am right where your at. Little flutter and it now starts at 46mph to 50 mph. Before I made changes this afternoon it would come on at 39 to 45 mph.
The changes I made to make a difference was in addition to all the other stuff I already changed I change upper control arm bushings, retorqued the steering box bolts, and I found the yoke on the transfer case coming off. Cleaned the threads in that and reinstalled with red loctite. Wired stuff huh! This jeep shook hard with dw.

So where does that leave me.
You have some good ideas re: unit bearings. Going to check them, rotate tires again. Remove front drive shaft and see how it is as I think the pinion angle might be a problem since I am with a stock housing and lifted 6"s. Check shocks. I have to finish my steering geometry. It was not planned to do the drag link flip without the trackbar relocation but parts were worn and I had them sitting there waiting to go in. I just need to get that done now.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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post #6 of 34 Old 10-01-2013, 11:04 AM
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At 6" of lift you really should be running a flipped drag link.

It also didn't help for my that I had a tire out if round. It's now my spare.

I would check out your unit bearings before going too crazy


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post #7 of 34 Old 10-01-2013, 12:03 PM
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Lots of things can go wrong especially with that much lift. SSB along with trackbar brace is still good idea since the sector shafts are so weak on these pigs. Think Rock Solid? has a newer version out that is supposed to work with every trackbar but Teraflex being one that may need a little grinding. Synergy has easiest setup but you must run their trackbar, trackbar brace and their ssb. I have tried to run their tb brace with the Rock Solid but couldn't get everything to align properly so gave up.

Trackbar bushings play a huge role in front end stability. Even a small amount of play will allow the axle to shift back and forth causing all sorts of tracking problems along with stress related issues to bj's, tre's, etc., not to mention wear to ram heims too. I still haven't been able to completely tighten up my front end after installing the ram. Gonna take some patience going through different joints to find some that hold their ground with the pounding the front end components are put through even just driving down the road.

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Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #8 of 34 Old 10-01-2013, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKred07 View Post
At 6" of lift you really should be running a flipped drag link.

It also didn't help for my that I had a tire out if round. It's now my spare.

I would check out your unit bearings before going too crazy


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Thanks will check unit bearings. I replaced one not long ago when a stib shaft was seized into the unit bearing. The drag link is flipped. The trackbar is not relocated yet. Making a mount now. That may help.

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Originally Posted by M&M's View Post
Lots of things can go wrong especially with that much lift. SSB along with trackbar brace is still good idea since the sector shafts are so weak on these pigs. Think Rock Solid? has a newer version out that is supposed to work with every trackbar but Teraflex being one that may need a little grinding. Synergy has easiest setup but you must run their trackbar, trackbar brace and their ssb. I have tried to run their tb brace with the Rock Solid but couldn't get everything to align properly so gave up.

Trackbar bushings play a huge role in front end stability. Even a small amount of play will allow the axle to shift back and forth causing all sorts of tracking problems along with stress related issues to bj's, tre's, etc., not to mention wear to ram heims too. I still haven't been able to completely tighten up my front end after installing the ram. Gonna take some patience going through different joints to find some that hold their ground with the pounding the front end components are put through even just driving down the road.

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Well I put in new trackbar bushings. It helped but not tons. Perhaps the trackbar relocation will help.

So I am going to focus on unit bearings, front pinion angle and Rotate tires to see how that does. Then trackbar relocation (doing that regardless)

If that does not solve it then I will consider ssb and likley go with jks setup if I have to ge a track bar.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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post #9 of 34 Old 10-02-2013, 03:44 PM
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Well keep us posted. Getting the drag link flipped is a biggie too.

Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #10 of 34 Old 10-02-2013, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Well keep us posted. Getting the drag link flipped is a biggie too.
Drag link is flipped lol.

Ok wobble starts at over 45 mph not full out dw but shakes.

Today I was able to check drivers unit bearing. I jacked the front tire off the ground and tried to find any movement by grapping the top and bottom of tire and wiggling it. Felt nothing.

I checked the new ball joints (moog) and I found small amount of movement in the top joint. Is that a concern? I think it maybe. Maybe I should get new ball joints from tf or DYNATRAC?

Also saw flex in the axle. That's weird?! Makes me think that perhaps I should spring for a new housing from tf or pro rock.

I have ruff stuff gm1ton offset tre's and dom tubing without reaming the steering knuckles. Don't think this a problem but I thought I would provide that info just incase.

Maybe the sector shaft is the issue or the trackbar relocation needs to be done. But if I am going to get a housing then why bother right? Pinion angle wheel rotation just to be surea? Recheck caster as well

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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post #11 of 34 Old 10-02-2013, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by asphalt assault View Post
Drag link is flipped lol.

Ok wobble starts at over 45 mph not full out dw but shakes.

Today I was able to check drivers unit bearing. I jacked the front tire off the ground and tried to find any movement by grapping the top and bottom of tire and wiggling it. Felt nothing.

I checked the new ball joints (moog) and I found small amount of movement in the top joint. Is that a concern? I think it maybe. Maybe I should get new ball joints from tf or DYNATRAC?

Also saw flex in the axle. That's weird?! Makes me think that perhaps I should spring for a new housing from tf or pro rock.

I have ruff stuff gm1ton offset tre's and dom tubing without reaming the steering knuckles. Don't think this a problem but I thought I would provide that info just incase.

Maybe the sector shaft is the issue or the trackbar relocation needs to be done. But if I am going to get a housing then why bother right? Pinion angle wheel rotation just to be surea? Recheck caster as well
Movement isn't good with the ball joints. Try out a set of Synergy, they seem to hold up well. I have had bad experiences with moog joints. My 2001 F250 4x4 had a serious issue with them, and with only 5k miles on them, and no offroading at all. Ohh, and the housing shouldn't be flexing, but if you are concerned, there are reinforcement kits available that will strenghten the housing up quite a bit.
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post #12 of 34 Old 10-03-2013, 08:21 AM
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Okay, let's back up here and have you recheck everything all over again first. I know you've probably already done this a hundred times but go again just to be sure. And what lift kit are you running so we know.

With the jeep sitting on the ground, start it and have someone wiggle your steering wheel back and forth just enough to put movement on all the steering joints while you look for any excess movement in one or all.

I usually start at the pitman arm to see if it's loose on the sector shaft, then the upper drag link end where it connects to the pitman arm, then down the drag link to the upper knuckle, then drop down to the tie rod passenger side tre then drivers side tre. Note any movement you find. Remember, even the tiniest amount of movement will be magnified while driving so a little movement in every joint amounts to a shit ton of movement while in motion.

If necessary, retorque all the tre's to spec.

Factory drag link tre to pitman arm = 77lbs.
Factory drag link tre to knuckle = 63lbs.
Factory tie rod tre's to knuckle = 63lbs.
With aftermarket tre's, torque to suggested spec. On all tre's, tighten to spec, then tighten the castle nut until you can install the cotter pin.

On old or worn tre's, sometimes you have to go just a little more in order to get them to seat and stay put (not much more though!). Just for shit's and giggles I would remove the pitman arm, clean the threads and apply red locktite then torque the bolt down to 185lbs. You will probably have to remove the trackbar to do this.

From there check the track bar or panhard to see if it's got any play. Most folks start here because it's one of the bigger culprits (and again, you already addressed this one), but recheck it anyway. Not only should you be looking for play in the bushings, but also check play in the bolt holes. Again, a little play = a lot on the road. If there is play in the bolt holes then you'll have to address this accordingly. Make sure the bolts are torqued down to 125lbs on both frame and axle side.

Now, I've seen a few videos of the Teraflex trackbar having lots of flex while driving, which can account for some excess movement. Not saying this is happening but I do recall it being a problem for some people. Just something to think about. I don't recommend running a Currie front or rear trackbar due to their weak bushings on frame side. I have had more problems with the bushing ripping in half than I care to talk about. Love the JJ at axle side, but again, frame side sucks ass because it's simply too thin to hold up under any substantial, continued use.

Now go back to your steering box and recheck the sector shaft for side to side movement. I find that there is always a little play in the sector shaft regardless of the type of box you have. I currently run a PSC box and I'm shocked at how much play there is (which is why I recommend running the sector shaft brace even with hydro assist; to keep play to a minimum). You already retorqued the steering gearbox bolts to 70lbs? so it should be good. Look for flex in the frame also (it can happen). With the long ass sector shaft we have in our gearbox, there's a lot of force pushing and pulling against the frame so it's not out of the question that the frame can weaken causing movement even if the bolts are tight. This isn't a common thing but even in the older TJ, YJ, LJ's, etc. the steering box braces ran bars from one side of the frame to the other (similar to the JKS ssb) in order to give a little more stability.

Ok, so now move on to your bj's. Jack the jeep up and place the front axle on jack stands so the weight of the jeep is resting on them. You only need to raise the tires about 3-4" off the ground. Then put a big ass pry bar under one tire at a time and raise it up and down. It helps if you have someone to do this for you while you inspect the bj's for play. There shouldn't be any play. If there is then you should replace them. As someone else said, try the Synergy bj's. For the money they seem to be pretty good. There are a few out there that have worn them out pretty quickly but for the most part it seems like everyone is having good luck with them. We install lots of them and haven't had any issues to date.

So what to check after that? Go to your control arms, both upper and lower. Again, I know you already did this and changed out the upper bushings. I assume your control arms are aftermarket? What brand and what type of joints do they run? Loosen the mounting bolts and look for play in the bracket holes just like we did on the trackbar. If there is play then you need to address this. Either by changing the bolts out from metric to standard or by repairing the worn mounting holes. If there is play in these bolts it's not likely to cause dw but will cause other issues as it allows your axle to move front to back while driving depending on how loose the mounting bolts are. Check torque on the control arms putting 75lbs on the upper bolts and 125lbs on the lower bolts.

Other things to check; The three bolts holding your knuckles on. Torque them to 75lbs. Loosen up your axle shaft nut then retighten it to 100lbs.

Now to alignment. Check your toe in and start at about 1/8" in. May need more with your lift and tire size but 1/8" is a good starting point.

Pinion angle and caster. These two are directly related for us as we have no ability to independently adjust these. With a lift as high as yours is you will probably have to make some steering compromises. If your pinion is too low your gonna have a lot of vibrations coming from your ds and this may explain why your yoke is coming loose. Since you already took care of the yoke issue, I'd start by raising your pinion and see if you can get your caster somewhere around 5.5-6 as a starting point. That's really high but so is your lift. With positive caster, road variations will have minimal effect on the tires (as much as you can anyway with such extreme geometry). With any luck your ds vibrations will be minimized, but also have your shaft balanced and/or rebuilt to rule out those related issues.

If you ultimately decide to go with another axle, you will be able to get your caster adjusted much easier by having it corrected upon fabrication to suit your requirements.

You will need to address your lower trackbar issue and I guess you will need to make a decision on how you want to do that. If you decide to keep your existing axle then all you really need to do is get a new raised trackbar bracket. I suggest a weld on v/s a bolt on but you will have to choose whichever you can manage.

Tell us how you saw flex in your axle. Typically we don't see perceptible movement there unless something is terribly wrong. Are you seeing movement where the tubes insert into the diff? If so are the plug welds busted loose? Or are you actually watching the axle move or bow up and down? Explain the flex if you can.

If the axle is good and you want to strengthen it, you can always install a truss as well as C-gussets. We really like Artec products. You can get a heavy duty raised trackbar bracket from them too but with 6" you may need to go a little higher than what they have in stock for the JK. Of course this really depends on how much lift your 6" lift actually gives you. I'd give them a call and discuss it a little and see what they can come up with for you. They really have great prices and quality products. This is of course just my opinion so take it for what it's worth (not much...lol).

Well for now that should give you about 15 minutes worth of shit to check. Good luck and let us know how things go. Hope this helps just a little...

Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #13 of 34 Old 10-03-2013, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
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The drag link is flipped. The trackbar is not relocated yet. Making a mount now. That may help.
That's your problem.

There is no reason to flip just the Drag Link. The Track Bar relocation is done to raise the roll center of the vehicle. The Drag Link needs to be flipped when doing this so that both bars travel in the same arc. If they don't, you will get bump steer.

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post #14 of 34 Old 10-03-2013, 11:30 AM
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You can get a heavy duty raised trackbar bracket from them too but with 6" you may need to go a little higher than what they have in stock for the JK.
Spot on recomendations, except for this. With JK knuckles you really can't raise the draglink any higher than flipping to the top of the knuckle, at least reasonably anyway, so you won't be able to match a raised trackbar any higher than 3" over factory, which is what pretty much every high steer bracket is set at.

Since what the OP is describing is nearly exactly what I had going on, it really does sound like orbital sector shaft movement or wear in the internal gear, unit bearings, or ball joints, IMO

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post #15 of 34 Old 10-03-2013, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by AllJumpStyle View Post
That's your problem.

There is no reason to flip just the Drag Link. The Track Bar relocation is done to raise the roll center of the vehicle. The Drag Link needs to be flipped when doing this so that both bars travel in the same arc. If they don't, you will get bump steer.
True. I am assuming since he already flipped the dl that he would be raising the tb as well. I'm sure he wants to raise his roll center rather than use a dropped pitman arm to maintain what he started with which is most likely out of parallel anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JKred07 View Post
Spot on recomendations, except for this. With JK knuckles you really can't raise the draglink any higher than flipping to the top of the knuckle, at least reasonably anyway, so you won't be able to match a raised trackbar any higher than 3" over factory, which is what pretty much every high steer bracket is set at.

Since what the OP is describing is nearly exactly what I had going on, it really does sound like orbital sector shaft movement or wear in the internal gear, unit bearings, or ball joints, IMO
Good point to make. Thank you! I think i bit off too much info in one go around. HaHa

If we suggest he keep things simple then yes, flip dl, then raise tb @ axle side approx. 3" or whatever height he needs to maintain parallel points. Rear should be addressed at the same time as well.

Hopefully it's only one or two simple things and not a multitude.

Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #16 of 34 Old 10-03-2013, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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I have plans for the panhard bar. Just have got to it. Bump steer come into play when the passenger tire moves up and down, drivers tire should not affect it. I feel bump steer when I go through a "g" out bump which this does not have that same feel.

Today I looked out my window to see tires and the drivers tire wiggles even when I don't feel it in the steering wheel. Going for a test drive with a friend to see if it is the drivers wheel moving only or if the passenger tire as well. That will lead me to other findings I am sure.

Sector shaft moves excessively. Ball joints are new and by moog. Surprised to have movement with it as I just put them in. All my control arms have bushings replaced (Tera flex 8 arm adjustable 4" lift made and 2" spacer). Tierod, ball joints, drag link all new. Monster track bar has new bushings as well.

I am betting its the steering box. Just IMO.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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post #17 of 34 Old 10-04-2013, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so both wheels wiggle at the same time not just one. Rules out drivers unit bearing. It was suspect as it is the older of the two bearings. I wiggle tested it as well with wheel in the air and found no problem.

Had someone wiggle the steering wheel while I felt each tre and drag link tre as well. I didn't feel a movement in either tre or the drang link tre's but there was clunking felt. The clunking felt more intense as I went closer and closer to steering box as I checked each tre. Then felt sector shaft and found movement and clunking.

I am now looking for a used steering box. Once I have that I will send out my steering box for rebuild and setup for redneck ram kit. I will have the other box as a spare.

Think I will get a ssb any way. Knowing I have a TF monster track bar what would you do?

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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post #18 of 34 Old 10-05-2013, 08:23 AM
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Give Rock Solid Performance a call and talk to them about their ssb. It should work and is a very nice design. Just note that if you decide to install a trackbar bracket brace that it may not align up and you will not be able to use one or the other. This observation is only due to our trying it a few times without success. Your results may vary.

On a side note, I have a pretty much new factory steering box I would like to sell. I got it to replace a box that broke. It was used for approximately 300 miles while I waited for my new PSC box to arrive. I've decided to just sell it and take my chances not having a backup. Yours for $450.00 not including shipping. Just a thought if your interested.

Originally Posted by van7559
I can bury my pinky in the rear, and just barley feel it, the front is a little easier, but still seems low to me!

I fist fuck life with a nuclear powered pneumatic fuck hammer for 60, 70 hrs a week...
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post #19 of 34 Old 10-05-2013, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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I am thinking of going with jks to have it double sheer and I guess that means I need a new trackbar. Guess my trackbar will be up for sale. Will perhaps sell locally first.

Reason for this is that it does not matter which ssb I get it just won't work with the tf monster track bar.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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Last edited by JeepUpKeep37s; 10-06-2013 at 05:45 AM.
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post #20 of 34 Old 10-12-2013, 11:53 AM
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Hey Wes, here's some info.... get away from teraflex parts. They caused us so much grief.

Lloyd had Dynamic Fluid on dugald do his steering box tap and rebuild already. Its $500 locally, save you the trip to texas redneck rebuild. Justin works there, good friend of mine. Also he has the older style SSB from Rock Solid. We both run the full Poly Performance Trackbar with relocation, 1ton Tierod and Flip Draglink setups and have no issues. I'm planning to get the new version of SSB from Rock Solid shortly. You really should consider steering before jumping the gun to 37s, all that work you have done and it's wasted money. Coulda bought a new steering setup now. You have my number, call me for help if needed.
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post #21 of 34 Old 10-12-2013, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennH View Post
Hey Wes, here's some info.... get away from teraflex parts. They caused us so much grief.

Lloyd had Dynamic Fluid on dugald do his steering box tap and rebuild already. Its $500 locally, save you the trip to texas redneck rebuild. Justin works there, good friend of mine. Also he has the older style SSB from Rock Solid. We both run the full Poly Performance Trackbar with relocation, 1ton Tierod and Flip Draglink setups and have no issues. I'm planning to get the new version of SSB from Rock Solid shortly. You really should consider steering before jumping the gun to 37s, all that work you have done and it's wasted money. Coulda bought a new steering setup now. You have my number, call me for help if needed.
Yeah I will call I need to do it soon. This is a real solution that's local. Thanks.
I am working on relocation of track bar this weekend. New track bar and ssb is a must.

FYI I have been running 37's for 40k KMs and felt great. Then a bunch of parts went bad at the same time (well collectively got worse) and after replacing almost everything I find the box is damaged. So rebuild and tap box, relocate trackbar, ssb and done. As I already have the drag link flipped, and 1 ton gm tre and 1.5 dom tie rod.

For the $500 is a ram included?
Call you soon, thanks.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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post #22 of 34 Old 10-13-2013, 06:17 AM
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$500 is just for the box rebuild and tap. nothing else. No res, no ram, no fittings, no cooler, etc etc.

I read the DIY Hydro Assist thread in the write up section and the SSB isnt required.

QUOTED: Another benefit to a hydraulic ram is it’s ability to reduce the strain on the steering box. Since the load is now primarily through the tie rod and axle housing, I feel common preventative products such as sector shaft braces are no longer required.
https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80502

I have a good deal of play "slop" in my steering now too after a polycor run 2 weeks ago. I got 8deg left and 8 deg right of slop before any tire movement. Im looking into this shortly. Havent had time lately.
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post #23 of 34 Old 10-13-2013, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennH View Post
I have a good deal of play "slop" in my steering now too after a polycor run 2 weeks ago. I got 8deg left and 8 deg right of slop before any tire movement. Im looking into this shortly. Havent had time lately.

I have some play in mine as well. It is where the intermediate shaft attaches to the box. Have not had time to tear into it. Probably tomorrow. Definitely no 8 deg though.

I have jeeps. I do shit to them.
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post #24 of 34 Old 10-13-2013, 07:50 AM
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I have the aeroforce gauges with the steer angles, so i can see the play and feel it. Im going to check the shaft when i free up time.
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post #25 of 34 Old 10-13-2013, 09:37 AM
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Are we talking about the new monster track bar ?
I've filmed my front end at various angles and that thing appears solid.

I've never had DW but "the flutter" feeling over bigger bumps I know.






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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers

Last edited by kjeeper10; 10-13-2013 at 09:52 AM.
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