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post #1 of 18 Old 07-07-2009, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Skid Plates

Finally got around to removing the gas tank skid so I could repair it. Man this thing is fuc*ed up. I am going to reinforce it with some plate before I put it back in. If anyone else's skid looks like this I would advise you to do the same. The problem is when the skid is pushed up it put higher loads in smaller areas of the tank and could eventually wear through the plastic tank, plus you will be able to actually fill the tank back to original capacity.





I had a colony of small ants living in the skid



I am also going to repair my t-case and engine skids. When I first bought these rock hard skids I thought they would hold up better.



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post #2 of 18 Old 07-08-2009, 07:59 AM
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It looks like is time for some new and stronger skids.

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post #3 of 18 Old 07-08-2009, 08:19 AM
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I thought the RH skids would have held up better? Maybe after you straighten them out weld some 3/8 angle in the pan.

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post #4 of 18 Old 07-08-2009, 08:29 AM
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Wow, those things are trashed! I had the same luck with my warn engine skid on my TJ, they just bowed like crazy until I added some extra ribs, then they held up decently.

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post #5 of 18 Old 07-08-2009, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncojohn View Post
I thought the RH skids would have held up better? Maybe after you straighten them out weld some 3/8 angle in the pan.
Yeah I was thinking I need to do something while I have them off. I wish I could move the gas tank up and then build a flat skid from one side to the other with some dom for reinforcing.


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post #6 of 18 Old 07-08-2009, 06:16 PM
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just cut a couple inches horizontal out the middle of the tank and duct tape it back togther. The trick is, to make sure the tape is really flat to get a good seal
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post #7 of 18 Old 07-08-2009, 06:18 PM
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so, is the skid the only thing holding up the tank?

is there any straps or bolts that keep it from moving around in the side to side fashion??
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post #8 of 18 Old 07-08-2009, 06:45 PM
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My gas tank skid is wasted too... Looks about the same, and I'm short close to 2 gals at fill up. Anymore details on dropping this thing? I havent even looked, but I'm guessing a couple of hoses to unclamp and a few bolts/hangers on each side of the skid? Thanks!

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post #9 of 18 Old 07-08-2009, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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The skid holds the tank up, no straps on the tank it just rest in the skid. Remove the filler hose, 5 plastic lines, the one wire connector, remove the transfer case skid, put a jack under the skid and remove the 8 18mm bolts holding it up.


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Last edited by bodyguy; 07-09-2009 at 07:53 PM.
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post #10 of 18 Old 07-08-2009, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WTF_LOL View Post
just cut a couple inches horizontal out the middle of the tank and duct tape it back togther. The trick is, to make sure the tape is really flat to get a good seal
Don't get me wrong I like duct tape but the last time I did that the gas turned the tapes adhesive to gel and I had an icky mess all over my hands


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post #11 of 18 Old 07-08-2009, 07:23 PM
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Don't get me wrong I like duct tape but the last time I did that the gas turned the tapes adhesive to gel and I had an icky mess all over my hands
did you use silver or black tape?


I am surprised there is nothing to keep the tank from moving. I would think even the slightest movement of the tank back and forth, sitting on metal with grit would eat it away like sandpaper. I would be tempted to put some sort of rubber pad under it
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post #12 of 18 Old 07-08-2009, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WTF_LOL View Post
did you use silver or black tape?


I used the black so it would match, guess I should have used the silver huh

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I am surprised there is nothing to keep the tank from moving. I would think even the slightest movement of the tank back and forth, sitting on metal with grit would eat it away like sandpaper. I would be tempted to put some sort of rubber pad under it
That's the other reason I wanted to pull it. I was cleaning and painting the frame after the beach trip and I kept getting sand out of it, you wouldn't believe how much crap was between the tank and skid. Another thing I found was the flange for my rear drive-shaft has almost cut through the skid. I have Tom Woods shafts with 1350 u-joint and the flange is a little larger than the stock one so when the rear axle is articulating it hits the skid.


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post #13 of 18 Old 07-08-2009, 07:44 PM
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if it were to cut through the skid are you thinking it will contact the tank itself?
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post #14 of 18 Old 07-08-2009, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WTF_LOL View Post
if it were to cut through the skid are you thinking it will contact the tank itself?
The area that was pushed in from the flange was touching the tank, so if it was to come through it would have cut the tank.


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post #15 of 18 Old 07-09-2009, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Here are all the connections that need to be disconnected
Rear


Front


Middle



Damage from a rock that was wedged between the tank and skid plate


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post #16 of 18 Old 07-24-2009, 07:29 AM
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FWIW I welded some 1x1/4" fins on to the inside of my RockHard t-case skid and it improves the strength of it substantially.
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post #17 of 18 Old 07-24-2009, 07:31 AM
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I have Tom Woods shafts with 1350 u-joint and the flange is a little larger than the stock one so when the rear axle is articulating it hits the skid.
The 1310 and stock ones do the same. I trimmed the skid in that area, but it still makes contact a little.
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post #18 of 18 Old 07-24-2009, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WTF_LOL View Post
just cut a couple inches horizontal out the middle of the tank and duct tape it back togther. The trick is, to make sure the tape is really flat to get a good seal
I don't think I'd use duct tape alone for this. Maybe some of that Gorilla Glue...

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