Instrument Cluster WorkAround LS1 Gen3 Swap? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 11-13-2019, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb Instrument Cluster WorkAround LS1 Gen3 Swap?

Observations? Hacks? Fuel Gauge Works(TIPM), Temp Gauge works (PCM). Still messing with Speedometer & Tach....Still sorting out the GM & Jeep signals and grounds in wiring harness.

Suggestions....Lessons Learned....Insights...Thoughts & Prayers?
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post #2 of 18 Old 11-13-2019, 02:10 PM
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Are you asking for advice in wiring? Are you saying you have it running and fuel and temp gauges working, yet are trying to figure out the tach and speedometer? Pics and info of your rig as well as a better explanation would help.


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post #3 of 18 Old 11-13-2019, 03:11 PM
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If you did an LS swap and didn't have it figured out beforehand, you are fucked, pardon my French.
Everything runs through the canbus. You can either ask motech/rpm for a easybus/motech type controller or wire every thing to new switches.

I am a troll. Do not take my advice. It isn't going to help.
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post #4 of 18 Old 11-14-2019, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mekanic View Post
Observations? Hacks? Fuel Gauge Works(TIPM), Temp Gauge works (PCM). Still messing with Speedometer & Tach....Still sorting out the GM & Jeep signals and grounds in wiring harness.

Suggestions....Lessons Learned....Insights...Thoughts & Prayers?
Speedometer signal is generated by the ABS module. It gets its signal from the wheel speed sensors. You will need a least 2 sensors working for it to spit out a speed signal.

Fuel Gauge is generated by the TIPM. you have that working

Temp is generated by the Jeep PCM. You have that working

Tach is generated by the Jeep PCM. You will either need a TACH Emulator to give the Cam-Crank signals to the jeep ECU, or a Reluctor ring on the GM balancer running the Jeep crank sensor, or some sort of module that car read the GM TACH output and generate a CANBUS message to the jeep cluster. TACH Emulator or reluctor ring would be the easiest. Novak sells a TACH emulator that may work.

I think we still have some reluctor rings kits on the shelf. RpmExtreme LS Swap GEN3 Balancer Reluctor Ring Kit :: RPM Extreme. The rings work pretty good as long as the sensor gap is dead on, at high RPM's they tend to drop out.




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post #5 of 18 Old 11-14-2019, 08:22 AM
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Also give us some details of your build. What year is the jeep? manual or auto ? what fan are you running? are you going to be running AC? etc...


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post #6 of 18 Old 11-15-2019, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coilrod View Post
If you did an LS swap and didn't have it figured out beforehand, you are fucked, pardon my French.

Everything runs through the canbus. You can either ask motech/rpm for a easybus/motech type controller or wire every thing to new switches.


This is completely false. All thatís needed is to power the underhood fuse box for all of the lights/wipers/ other shit to work and tie the LSís ignition and starter wire into the jeeps and the key will work.


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post #7 of 18 Old 11-16-2019, 04:10 AM
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Canbus/tipm issues on my swap before motech stepped up and rewired/reprogrammed= headlights/brakelights, wipers, charging system, alarm, radio, accelerator. Prndl, air conditioning, door locks. The crank sensors worked ok. So, if none of that matters you are ok. I had sensor issues with the coolant sensors (jeep vs gm engine coolant. The jeep sensor kept insisting I was 280* when I was under 220). The ls sensor told the engine it was ok, but the jeep sensor told the warning tone to go off continuously. This was a gen 3/4 kit from 2011 and Motech had different wiring and different grounds from the next gen. Before I took it to Motech, it ran, usually, but it couldn't be trusted. The instructions in 2011 were shitty. I made some mistakes in the harness, and my mechanic made some more. Robbie redid the entire harness and changed the computer. It worked fine after that.
Those were what I remember, there were some other issues, but i can't remember what they were, throttle and position sensors, and fan cooling, were a couple but they might have been actual hard part issues.
Can you do it with a paperclip and a clothespin? Sure. Go for it.

I am a troll. Do not take my advice. It isn't going to help.
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post #8 of 18 Old 11-19-2019, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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How does one add pics of build...I'm getting upload errors for a 3.2MB jpeg file? Is there a "STICKY" somewhere?
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post #9 of 18 Old 11-19-2019, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coilrod View Post
If you did an LS swap and didn't have it figured out beforehand, you are fucked, pardon my French.
Everything runs through the canbus. You can either ask motech/rpm for a easybus/motech type controller or wire every thing to new switches.
If MoTech/RPM did LS1 GEN3 I would...but they apparently don't...and I'm beginning to realize why.
My issue is with "compatible" signals received by, for example Jeep PCM, which then formats the CAN Bus output. The "Low Hanging Fruit" was the FUEL and TEMP gauges.

The name of the Jeep is self-explanatory..."ClusterFaux"
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post #10 of 18 Old 11-20-2019, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME View Post
Also give us some details of your build. What year is the jeep? manual or auto ? what fan are you running? are you going to be running AC? etc...
2007 JK X Unlimited "Heavy Jeep" Winch, Steel Bumpers
2005 GMC Denali Vortec 6.0 with 4L65E converted from AWD to NP-241C Transaxle (LS1 GEN3) (Installed & Running)
52mm Radiator + Electric Fan (Working, No Heat Issues)
Jeep Power Steering (Working)
Jeep AC (Connected but not Charged)
GM Alternator (Working)
MoTech Motor Mounts
Motech Accessory Mount
Wiring Harness + Programming (jimsperformance.com)...at least that's the label on the "PCM" (Basically a StandAlone Harness)
DriveShafts Installed
....and yes the jeep is in Alabama about an hour away.
....started as "RatRod"...I let some other people work on the "Bones" but the wiring...
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post #11 of 18 Old 11-20-2019, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=ChuckTheRipper;4474032]Are you asking for advice in wiring? Are you saying you have it running and fuel and temp gauges working, yet are trying to figure out the tach and speedometer? Pics and info of your rig as well as a better explanation would help.


From This....


To This.......
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post #12 of 18 Old 11-20-2019, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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For some reason I can't control the orientation of some pictures.
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post #13 of 18 Old 11-20-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Engine and Cooling....


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post #14 of 18 Old 11-20-2019, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Meet "ClusterFaux"

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post #15 of 18 Old 11-20-2019, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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These Lights, Speedometer & Tach...I'm Golden!

Original Issue...


1) ABS => Maybe Bad Pump?
2) BRAKE => Probably Bad Switch...Won't Go OFF...But Blinks When Parking Brake Applied
3) AirBag => Bad SQUIB?
4) ETC => (Electronic Throttle Control) ?
5) BAS/ESP =?
6) PRND => All Boxed [P][R][N][D]... Can't Reset

I'm told Jeep has 3" lift (Front), 1.5" (Rear)...by someone who was raiding my Beer Fridge.
Steering Wheel about 1/2" off CCW...Can ETC be that touchy?
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post #16 of 18 Old 11-20-2019, 09:40 PM
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I had an intermittent Prndl light show like that. Not sure why, but i used the procal to reset the jeep codes in the jeep obd2 port. The gm obd2 and bcm were fine. What ever wiring motech redid fixed it, except that time the transmission shift lever broke. Had to reset after that too.

I am a troll. Do not take my advice. It isn't going to help.
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post #17 of 18 Old 11-21-2019, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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What transmission/transaxle are you running?
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post #18 of 18 Old 11-21-2019, 08:32 PM
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6l80

I am a troll. Do not take my advice. It isn't going to help.
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