Hemi TR6060 swap? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-20-2019, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Question Hemi TR6060 swap?

Hello all,
I'm new here so I apologize if this is a dumb question. I'm looking to do a hemi swap on my 08 6 speed rubicon, I want to keep a manual and I know the stock trans won't work and the Getrag 238 seems to be the trans of choice, but seems scarce and expensive. Here is the question, is a hemi with a TR660 (t-56) an option? I know these transitions never came equipped on a 4x4 but it looks like Rockland Gear makes an adapter to fit it to a transfer case and the trans will handle plenty of power. Has anyone tried this? if so what is involved in making it work? Thanks.
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-20-2019, 01:10 PM
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Wish I had an answer for you. I'm interested as well. I've been considering a V8 swap for some time, but moving to an auto is a no-go for me.

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post #3 of 11 Old 08-20-2019, 01:49 PM
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I think to do it right, you'd want to have some custom gearing to get a lower first and 6th gear, at a minimum, because the TR6060 was designed for car tire sizes. As you mentioned RSG, they do have their "tranzilla" and adapters to make it work.

Robbie at Motech has done LS swaps using the RSG manual trans. Check their Youtube page for ideas on the crossmember mods required, the RSG TC adapter, shift tower mod they did in-house (I think), etc...

Unfortunately, when all is said and done, the RSG route would probably cost significantly more than the G238 in both $$$ and time. You'll surely have a stronger transmission; but I haven't seen any documented problems with the Hemi / G238. I have my G238 costs detailed in my swap thread. I can say that RSG gave me a ballpark estimate (two years ago) that was almost 30% more than I paid for a brand new G238.

On the other hand, I'm sure we'd all love to see someone detail a Hemi / RSG swap on here. Good luck!

Last edited by rockystock; 08-20-2019 at 01:51 PM.
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post #4 of 11 Old 09-05-2019, 06:34 AM
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We have done the rockland TR6060 4x4 behind a LS in a JK.
Several issues.
First its very expensive.
Second, gearing in the trans is more set up for a lighter car. its not geared very low at all.
Third, it ends up being very long. with the tcase adapter they run it makes the overall trans really long and puts the Tcase a lot further back. Drive shaft - crossmember issues.
Lastly, you will need a custom shifter base thats adjustable to move the shifter as far forward as possible to fit the stock opening.


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post #5 of 11 Old 09-06-2019, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input, good point about the gear ratio's I was thinking of the fitment and didn't consider that. Looks like The Getrag is the way to go.
Another question, I'm sure it's been asked many times before so my apologies, but any preference on donor vehicle? truck vs. car? More than likely going with the 5.7 (unless I find a good deal on a 6.1) I am looking for a lower mileage donor so it will likely have vvt and dod. and mine is a 08 so it never had any of this. Maybe i'm better off rebuilding a older non vvt engine?
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post #6 of 11 Old 09-06-2019, 03:58 PM
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With a manual, you'll want to find a non-MDS engine. You can find them on any vehicle that had a manual transmission, and also the Ram 2500 / 3500 auto or manual. The MDS engines will work, but you'll have the collapsible lifters that may cause trouble over time.

I'd also recommend going with a 2009+ Ram engine because the alternator sits up high (better position for muddy rides).

FWIW, if I were to do it again, I'd either buy a remanufactured short block, or buy a junked engine and have the short block professionally rebuilt. Build the long block myself so I know it's done right. Upgrade the pushrods and rocker assys. as well.

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post #7 of 11 Old 09-06-2019, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockystock View Post
With a manual, you'll want to find a non-MDS engine. You can find them on any vehicle that had a manual transmission, and also the Ram 2500 / 3500 auto or manual. The MDS engines will work, but you'll have the collapsible lifters that may cause trouble over time.

I'd also recommend going with a 2009+ Ram engine because the alternator sits up high (better position for muddy rides).

FWIW, if I were to do it again, I'd either buy a remanufactured short block, or buy a junked engine and have the short block professionally rebuilt. Build the long block myself so I know it's done right. Upgrade the pushrods and rocker assys. as well.

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Did you have issues with a low mile pullout?


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post #8 of 11 Old 09-06-2019, 05:26 PM
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Did you have issues with a low mile pullout?
Yup. In short, and despite taking all precautions prior to purchase, the engine looked like the last owner did the Cannonball Run with it lol. Oil coating in several exhaust ports and dubious leak down test results (that I made) lead to trip to machine shop. Shop said four of the oil seal rings weren't touching the cylinder walls (bad factory assembly?). Shop did a light hone, replaced main/rod bearings and installed Total Seal Gapless ringset. Got the engine home and found they used two right-side aftermarket (Cometic) head gaskets. Decided to delete the MDS lifters (used Melling JBK-7521, OEM supplier) while also correcting the head gaskets (back to stock SRT). Saw that the machine shop did not clean off the old head gasket residue from the block. Also found six scratched pushrod tips and associated rocker cups (from previous owner's use). Also found the stock pushrods were all short and not straight. Went with Manton 3/8" x 0.095" wall pushrods (length and straightness much improved). Replaced rocker assemblies with a revised set (new OEM part number) that has chamfered oiling holes in the shafts.

This engine sounds absolutely awesome, ZERO abnormal valve train noises, not a hint of a tick anywhere. Smooth like my wife's Honda 3.5. BUT, it took a rebuild and several corrections to get there. The same results can be had cheaper with an old engine and plan for rebuild from the start. Bypass any crappy factory assembly issues and upgrade a few internals to have a better-than-new engine.

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post #9 of 11 Old 10-16-2019, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I managed to find a good deal on a used G238 and will go through and freshen it up. Now the search for the engine, I agree with finding a non MDS engine, I have found a couple of 6.4 2500/3500 but they still seem to have the MDS did yours have it? if not what year did they start using it?
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post #10 of 11 Old 10-16-2019, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gk's jk View Post
Thanks, I managed to find a good deal on a used G238 and will go through and freshen it up. Now the search for the engine, I agree with finding a non MDS engine, I have found a couple of 6.4 2500/3500 but they still seem to have the MDS did yours have it? if not what year did they start using it?
Hmm I hadn't heard that they started putting MDS in the HD hemis. I'd guess anything up to 2013 would be non-MDS. Looks like the online dealer databases have the 2500's as non-MDS. Here's factorychryslerparts with a non-mds assembly fitment list:



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post #11 of 11 Old 10-16-2019, 04:32 PM
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My 6.4 came from a Challenger, but I swapped out the timing cover / accessories for the 5.7 truck hemi version. Also had to do the mds delete because the Challenger was an auto (replaced lifters, used a non-mds cam phaser harness, and swapped solenoids for aluminum plugs but did not replace the camshaft).

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