Battery drain - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 12-23-2017, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Battery drain

Anybody else that has done the LS swaps. Have you had any issues of battery drain if left setting for 1 or more days? I have done the conversion 2 years ago and have been fighting this drain since day one. The original setup was what I will call the RPM's first generation of install and it was determined that the bcm was not shutting down so items were staying active. I upgraded to the newest ez canbus install and I am still having battery drain to the point it will not start. Battery is relatively new and I just had it checked, good.

Only aftermarket items are the winch, straight to battery, no different that before the install and I had no battery drain. A couple window pod lights and led headlights. Aftermarket stereo that does shut off when doors are opened. NO interior lights stay on and I hear no noticeable humming after jeep is shut off, like fuel pump or other components.

How does one go about looking for things that could still be drawing power?

Any help, advice or questions would be great.

2007 JKU X, 6.0 ls and 6L80e with a diy kit from RpmExtreme, 4.10, 4" ProComp Stage 1 lift, AEV drop brackets, 325/65R18 Nitto Terra Grapplers, Eagle Offroad Alloys 18"x10"
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post #2 of 11 Old 12-23-2017, 10:51 AM
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Take a volt meter to the fuse block and start checking one at a time.

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post #3 of 11 Old 12-23-2017, 06:07 PM
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Robbie at Motech wrote about something like that, where you said the cpu wonít shut off, draining the battery. Mine is a gen V swap, and sure enough, last week had a dead battery, but best I can figure out is that I left the ignition key in a half way position, leaving some stuff on. Gave the battery a slow charge and all is fine.
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post #4 of 11 Old 12-23-2017, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4wheels4life View Post

How does one go about looking for things that could still be drawing power?

Any help, advice or questions would be great.
Here are the details concerning an ignition off draw test. Read them carefully. One point to be aware of is the one about waiting 3 minutes after connecting the ammeter in series to allow the systems to shut down again.

IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.

A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). This will reduce battery discharging.

Excessive IOD can be caused by:

Electrical items left on.
Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
An internally shorted generator.
Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.


1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes.

2. Determine that the under-hood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb.

3. Disconnect the battery negative cable.

4. Set an electronic digital multimeter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multimeter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multimeter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multimeter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated.

5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multimeter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information for complete TIPM fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, the alternator is suspect. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliamp scale of the multimeter to check the low-amperage IOD.

CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliamp scale selected, or the multimeter may be damaged.

6. Observe the multimeter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamp (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamp, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in STEP 5. The multimeter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.

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post #5 of 11 Old 12-24-2017, 06:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. I checked the fuse voltage with key off and got 16 fuses that had 12 volts gt1guy.

Thanks ronjenx for the in depth procedure to check for draw, that is what I need as I am very limited on electrical, can check voltage and continuity but beyond that still learning. I will have to read up on how to set the multimeter for milliamperes. Looks like I need a nice day to start pulling fuses.

2007 JKU X, 6.0 ls and 6L80e with a diy kit from RpmExtreme, 4.10, 4" ProComp Stage 1 lift, AEV drop brackets, 325/65R18 Nitto Terra Grapplers, Eagle Offroad Alloys 18"x10"
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post #6 of 11 Old 12-24-2017, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4wheels4life View Post
Thanks for the replies. I checked the fuse voltage with key off and got 16 fuses that had 12 volts gt1guy.
There are quite a few fuses that get power all the time from the main battery bus.

I just counted 19 of them in my JK.

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Last edited by ronjenx; 12-24-2017 at 07:08 AM.
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post #7 of 11 Old 12-24-2017, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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There are quite a few fuses that get power all the time from the main battery bus.

I just counted 19 of them in my JK.
I have a Fluke 77 BN. Had it for years. From what I understand I need to start off with the leads at common and 10A to register for the highest
milliamperes, then move to the 300mA. Mine appears to be self adjusting as I do not have maxs to select.

Unfortunately I do not have a shop to work in and it is in the 20's here so I will have to wait for it to warm up a bit to get started.

2007 JKU X, 6.0 ls and 6L80e with a diy kit from RpmExtreme, 4.10, 4" ProComp Stage 1 lift, AEV drop brackets, 325/65R18 Nitto Terra Grapplers, Eagle Offroad Alloys 18"x10"
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post #8 of 11 Old 12-27-2017, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4wheels4life View Post
Thanks for the replies. I checked the fuse voltage with key off and got 16 fuses that had 12 volts gt1guy.
After reading the post from ronjenx, my idea should probably be put out to pasture.

I hate the Jeep wiring and I have ALL of it out of my Jeep right now. And I'm doing an LS swap. Not looking forward to the day it all has to go back in.

I predict I'll be bringing this thread back from the dead at some point.

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post #9 of 11 Old 12-28-2017, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Still have not been able to do deal with this as it is still 16-20 degrees outside with wind chill. After all these years I still do not have a shop to work in

2007 JKU X, 6.0 ls and 6L80e with a diy kit from RpmExtreme, 4.10, 4" ProComp Stage 1 lift, AEV drop brackets, 325/65R18 Nitto Terra Grapplers, Eagle Offroad Alloys 18"x10"
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post #10 of 11 Old 12-28-2017, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4wheels4life View Post
Still have not been able to do deal with this as it is still 16-20 degrees outside with wind chill. After all these years I still do not have a shop to work in
I wish it were that warm here!
And we still have January, (the cold month), to get through.
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post #11 of 11 Old 12-28-2017, 02:05 PM
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I had the same problem, It was stereo equipment the whole time. Even when it looked like it was "off".
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