08' 2dr LS swap build thread. - Page 5 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #101 of 296 Old 02-11-2017, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Updated post #2 again with more parts. I also attempted to segregate the different sections between engine, trans, and electronics /exhaust / fuel delivery. It scared me when I added up what I have spent on exhaust parts.

I've still got several fittings and hose to buy for the trans cooler and fuel system.

Last edited by Dkjeep; 02-11-2017 at 09:25 AM.
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post #102 of 296 Old 02-15-2017, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Totally didn't care for how the ecm was supposed to mount. It had the harness in a bind and not really tucked away. So what I did was plug everything in and just tried to see where it wanted to naturally sit. I noticed that there were a couple of spots that I could easily whip up a couple brackets for and get a pretty solid mount and this is what I came up with.





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post #103 of 296 Old 02-15-2017, 07:02 PM
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That came out really clean. Looks good.
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post #104 of 296 Old 02-15-2017, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Exhaust is together and being finish welded.

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post #105 of 296 Old 02-15-2017, 09:15 PM
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How tall are those muffs in that orientation? Will they hang below the bottom of the frame rail at all?

I dig it. That is really slick. I may steal your idea.

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post #106 of 296 Old 02-16-2017, 04:05 AM Thread Starter
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How tall are those muffs in that orientation? Will they hang below the bottom of the frame rail at all?

I dig it. That is really slick. I may steal your idea.
The body of those mufflers not including the ends are 12 x 4.5 x 7.88. The P/N is in the list in post #2. They make the same muffler in a round Style which would work as well but I was scared about having enough space between the frame and driveshaft as the round ones would be wider. After having it all in there I think they would fit though it's just hard to tell when you're laying under there with a tape measure trying to visualize it.

To anwser the question though, they do not hang down below the frame rail. I'm kicking myself in the ass right now because I gave my gas tank skid away with the tank. The skid could easily be bolted back up to protect the exhaust and I would just have to cut 2 holes or a slot out of the back end for the exhaust to come out of. Would have been really slick and I just might find one still or buy a new one and do that.
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post #107 of 296 Old 02-16-2017, 05:38 AM
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Forgot to mention. What ever that is covering your throttle body, looks like a black vagina. That's all I see when I look at that picture now.

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post #108 of 296 Old 02-16-2017, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Forgot to mention. What ever that is covering your throttle body, looks like a black vagina. That's all I see when I look at that picture now.
LMAO! Its the new LS-fleshlight. Here the new plate I just ordered for it...


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post #109 of 296 Old 02-26-2017, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Last of the exhaust pics. It's on for the last time (for now ) I know I've tooted their horn before but ARP hardware is the shit.







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post #110 of 296 Old 02-26-2017, 03:42 PM
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Hate to do this to ya but you shouldn't have the O2 sensors in the lower part of the exhaust pipe. They should be in the top section of the pipe pointing downward to keep moisture from getting on the tip. I think the rule of thumb is 30 degrees either side of the top of the exhaust pipe.


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post #111 of 296 Old 02-26-2017, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Hate to do this to ya but you shouldn't have the O2 sensors in the lower part of the exhaust pipe. They should be in the top section of the pipe pointing downward to keep moisture from getting on the tip. I think the rule of thumb is 30 degrees either side of the top of the exhaust pipe.
I had 0 room on top. I'm obviously no expert but the tips are pointing way into the tube. Unless you are talking about condensation no water will be in there. Condensation should burn off quick.
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post #112 of 296 Old 02-26-2017, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME View Post
Hate to do this to ya but you shouldn't have the O2 sensors in the lower part of the exhaust pipe. They should be in the top section of the pipe pointing downward to keep moisture from getting on the tip. I think the rule of thumb is 30 degrees either side of the top of the exhaust pipe.
Might get lucky due to them being on the section of pipe running downhill, so they're not pointing up much at all. Looks like 180* out from where they are would have been perfect.

Aside from that, the exhaust looks great.

edit: Just saw DK's post. Ya, it's condensation inside the exhaust for the reason it's recommended to keep the tips pointed down. Condensation shortens the life of the sensor.

Kevin

Last edited by gt1guy; 02-26-2017 at 04:42 PM.
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post #113 of 296 Old 02-26-2017, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Might get lucky due to them being on the section of pipe running downhill, so they're not pointing up much at all. Looks like 180* out from where they are would have been perfect.

Aside from that, the exhaust looks great.

edit: Just saw DK's post. Ya, it's condensation inside the exhaust for the reason it's recommended to keep the tips pointed down. Condensation shortens the life of the sensor.


Gotcha, makes sense now. At this point I'm not changing anything unless it starts making problems. They arent on the very bottom but definitely not pointing downward either. I am over this exhaust stuff for right now. Shits a beating. We shall see what happens.

Worse case I buy a plugs for those holes and try to find a place for new ones.

***just FYI*** that section of pipe is exactly at 45 degrees on both sides. I had a angle finder on each side before they were tacked. I had to have 45 degrees for the first bends to get pointed straight back.

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post #114 of 296 Old 03-06-2017, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Starting modding the fuel cell, getting close to firing this thing up.

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post #115 of 296 Old 03-07-2017, 10:20 AM
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Starting modding the fuel cell, getting close to firing this thing up.
Very cool. Can't wait to hear the beast.

Also can't wait to see how the sender reads.

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post #116 of 296 Old 03-08-2017, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Battery box from 12+ is the ticket. No clearance issues just had to make a couple very minor mods to it for the wiring to play nice and all is well.



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post #117 of 296 Old 04-02-2017, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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No update in a hot minute. Been doing small odds and ends and waiting from parts here and there to trickle in. I did get the trans cooling setup today.





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post #118 of 296 Old 04-12-2017, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, guys who have been there before help me out.....

Dash will not display P R N D icons.

Jeep will not allow me to run the starter.

Jeep will not send power the fuel pump circuit

Jeep will not display current fuel level (stays on E full time no matter how sending unit is manipulated)

Jeep shows BRAKE light full time even though it was not on prior to this project and the reservoir is full and E brake is off.

Jeep shows anti lock brake light even though was funcitonal prior to project and all wheel speed sensors are plugged in.

Jeep has BAS / ESP light on for no reason that I am aware of.

Jeep will not allow my bluetooth OBD tool to connect to the jeep side but will allow it to connect to the GM side. GM side is not throwing any codes besides something about the MAF which is not currently plugged in.

I have checked and rechecked all connections, trans is for sure in the park position, battery is full charge, I have 3 heavy grounds going to the body, frame, and engine

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post #119 of 296 Old 04-12-2017, 05:58 PM
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I haven't done the swap yet, so not much help.

But, do the dash lights cycle through their checks when you first put the key in?

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post #120 of 296 Old 04-12-2017, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't done the swap yet, so not much help.

But, do the dash lights cycle through their checks when you first put the key in?
Just spent an hour on the phone with Jon and my multi meter and we ran through a couple dozen checks. Everything seems to point to something on the jeep side but I'm at a loss as to what. Messing with it we were able to get the dash indications for gear to pop on on the display but they all have boxes around them so that's kinda weird. Still not working and won't attempt to start.

The rest of the dash lights seem normal. And it is displaying when the transfer case is in 4wd.
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post #121 of 296 Old 04-12-2017, 08:44 PM
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Just a thought, if you removed the jeep ecm connectors you did not get them mixed up by chance?

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post #122 of 296 Old 04-13-2017, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Just a thought, if you removed the jeep ecm connectors you did not get them mixed up by chance?
You cant put them in any spot they don't belong.
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post #123 of 296 Old 04-13-2017, 08:25 AM
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ok, thats good. I never tried it when mine was apart, just a thought. Hope you get it. Jon will get it figured out.

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post #124 of 296 Old 04-14-2017, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel cell is mounted. Just have to bolt in things on the top side and finish the plumbing.

Still can't get it to even attempt to start. Something is wrong with the can network.

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post #125 of 296 Old 04-14-2017, 06:41 PM
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Even if you are not showing a code on the jeep obd2, try clearing dtc's with an obd2 reader. It has worked for me in the past (prior to ls swap) when my fuel gauge went to e and I stalled out. A sensor must have been bumped and the jeep thought it had issues. Reset the dtc's and it fired right up.
(Would be sweet if that solved your issue, but prolly won't).

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