08' 2dr LS swap build thread. - Page 4 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #76 of 296 Old 01-11-2017, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Moving on, I couldn't get the Sanden 508 compressor no matter what I did or how I twisted the engine and mounts to clear enough even with the idea of shaving the bolt heads down on the back of the compressor. I tried 2 different 508 compressors, a 4514 and a 6669. Both were identical to each other besides the rear covers with the 4514 being a little shorter.

I picked up a Sanden 7176 and a dirty dingo mount and it fits with PLENTY of room now. Yes it is a mini compressor, and no I'm not worried about it not cooling enough. This thing spends most of the nice part of the year with no top or doors. I just need a/c for the rare time that I will use it or need the defrost to work.








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post #77 of 296 Old 01-11-2017, 01:46 PM
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Boy, that compressor did give you some room. I am trying to decide by spring what to do in regards to compressors. I think mine is leaking, used one from the junk yard. The one that came with the motor also locked up. Not having much luck and need to stop with the used ones.

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post #78 of 296 Old 01-11-2017, 05:18 PM
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Boy, that compressor did give you some room. I am trying to decide by spring what to do in regards to compressors. I think mine is leaking, used one from the junk yard. The one that came with the motor also locked up. Not having much luck and need to stop with the used ones.
While they work well there are compromises with the GM drive. The passenger low AC compressor mount has never been optimal IMO. You need to run the AC lines to the driver rear of the engine compartment, compressor to UCA bracket is close without a lift, compressor to frame clearance can be an issue..... We do run the GM drive and it works well, we fabricate PS and AC lines, rework the wiring, run a compact compressor, watch the PS pulley to PS gear clearance..... In the end the GM drive works fine but is more upfront work.

For 8 years we ran the JK accessory drive layout and it has a lot of advantages - better clearance, the use of stock PS lines, AC hoses, electrical connectors, use of off the shelf hydraulics systems..... The steel brackets worked great but could be a PITA to set up properly especially when we ran the crankshaft position sensor on the balancer. I have many JK's with over 100k miles on the steel brackets.

Our new billet brackets solve a lot of issues, better clearance, no adjustment just bolt on and they look cool. They will be offered in polished aluminum and anodized black with silver engraving. The Gen IV truck brackets are being installed now and the Gen IV LS3 brackets will be available shortly, the LS3 runs the same driver side AC bracket as the truck.

I don't know what accessory drive you are running but there are several good options for the passenger side low mount that are reliable.


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post #79 of 296 Old 01-11-2017, 05:48 PM
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Moving on, I couldn't get the Sanden 508 compressor no matter what I did or how I twisted the engine and mounts to clear enough even with the idea of shaving the bolt heads down on the back of the compressor. I tried 2 different 508 compressors, a 4514 and a 6669. Both were identical to each other besides the rear covers with the 4514 being a little shorter.

I picked up a Sanden 7176 and a dirty dingo mount and it fits with PLENTY of room now. Yes it is a mini compressor, and no I'm not worried about it not cooling enough. This thing spends most of the nice part of the year with no top or doors. I just need a/c for the rare time that I will use it or need the defrost to work.
Wow, that bought you some clearance alright. What direction are the hoses clocked too?

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post #80 of 296 Old 01-12-2017, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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Wow, that bought you some clearance alright. What direction are the hoses clocked too?
There is an adapter that I picked up that mounts to the compressor in the area circled. Once it comes out of there the hoses have 90's on them. I haven't tried to fit them yet but it does not look like it's going to be an issue.




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post #81 of 296 Old 01-15-2017, 11:18 AM
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There is an adapter that I picked up that mounts to the compressor in the area circled. Once it comes out of there the hoses have 90's on them. I haven't tried to fit them yet but it does not look like it's going to be an issue.
I see now. Didn't realize that was a cover in the pics. Looks like the perfect location to have the hoses connect to.

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post #82 of 296 Old 01-19-2017, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Exhaust parts have arrived. So much stainless goodness. Time to get moving again.

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post #83 of 296 Old 01-19-2017, 06:08 PM
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Exhaust parts have arrived. So much stainless goodness. Time to get moving again.
Sweet. What grade stainless?

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post #84 of 296 Old 01-19-2017, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Sweet. What grade stainless?
It's all 304L
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post #85 of 296 Old 01-20-2017, 08:48 PM
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It's all 304L
Are you welding it together? Make sure to backpurge the tube so the backside of the weld doesn't sugar.

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post #86 of 296 Old 01-21-2017, 06:46 AM
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Looking good. I can't wait to see this thing finished.

We need to gather up all these LS powered Jeeps somewhere and have an event.
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post #87 of 296 Old 01-21-2017, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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Are you welding it together? Make sure to backpurge the tube so the backside of the weld doesn't sugar.

No a good friend is going to help me do the welding. It's what he does for a living and has welded plenty of stainless for food grade applications. The idea is to cut, fit, and tack it all together. Then prop up the trans and drop the cross member so I can drop the entire system down and drag it out. Then cap the ends and have a constant purge inside the system while it is welded up.

That's the plan at least. I will be starting on it this next week. I will take plenty of photos. On a side note the place I ordered from has their shit together. This stuff seems to be top shelf stuff and the packaging speaks for itself.


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post #88 of 296 Old 01-21-2017, 12:43 PM
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No a good friend is going to help me do the welding. It's what he does for a living and has welded plenty of stainless for food grade applications. The idea is to cut, fit, and tack it all together. Then prop up the trans and drop the cross member so I can drop the entire system down and drag it out. Then cap the ends and have a constant purge inside the system while it is welded up.

That's the plan at least. I will be starting on it this next week. I will take plenty of photos. On a side note the place I ordered from has their shit together. This stuff seems to be top shelf stuff and the packaging speaks for itself.
Sounds like the perfect plan.

Who did you order the material from?

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post #89 of 296 Old 01-21-2017, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds like the perfect plan.

Who did you order the material from?
verocious motorsports. I looked all over the net for bends and these guys overall were the most reasonable for what I wanted. I wanted 304 stainless and tight bend radius. With how I plan on doing it I need as tight of a bend as possible which is one reason I chose it. Try that with regular aluminized pipe and a regular bender and it will have crazy distortion and crinkles in it.
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post #90 of 296 Old 01-21-2017, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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One thing that I have been wondering about is, will I still need a hand held tuner to set tire size / gear ratio and other crap like tpms?

The other is what size trans cooler is recommended? I have been looking at the earls coolers but don't know what size to get?

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post #91 of 296 Old 01-21-2017, 09:26 PM
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One thing that I have been wondering about is, will I still need a hand held tuner to set tire size / gear ratio and other crap like tpms?

The other is what size trans cooler is recommended? I have been looking at the earls coolers but don't know what size to get?

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Flex-A-Lite - TransLife; Transmission Oil Cooler Kit | 4WheelParts.com

This is what I went with and haven't seen temps over 140 yet.

08 JKU 6.0 LC8 6L80 Atlas 2 39" KM3's on Trilogy race beadlocks, prorock 44,rcv's arb front. rock jock 60 rear 40spline shafts,arb 5.13's and a bunch of other stuff
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post #92 of 296 Old 01-21-2017, 09:36 PM
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While they work well there are compromises with the GM drive. The passenger low AC compressor mount has never been optimal IMO. You need to run the AC lines to the driver rear of the engine compartment, compressor to UCA bracket is close without a lift, compressor to frame clearance can be an issue..... We do run the GM drive and it works well, we fabricate PS and AC lines, rework the wiring, run a compact compressor, watch the PS pulley to PS gear clearance..... In the end the GM drive works fine but is more upfront work.

For 8 years we ran the JK accessory drive layout and it has a lot of advantages - better clearance, the use of stock PS lines, AC hoses, electrical connectors, use of off the shelf hydraulics systems..... The steel brackets worked great but could be a PITA to set up properly especially when we ran the crankshaft position sensor on the balancer. I have many JK's with over 100k miles on the steel brackets.

Our new billet brackets solve a lot of issues, better clearance, no adjustment just bolt on and they look cool. They will be offered in polished aluminum and anodized black with silver engraving. The Gen IV truck brackets are being installed now and the Gen IV LS3 brackets will be available shortly, the LS3 runs the same driver side AC bracket as the truck.

I don't know what accessory drive you are running but there are several good options for the passenger side low mount that are reliable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzPu...ature=youtu.be
Sorry for the jet noise. Ill have to come visit yall next time I am at red flag.

One question, are spectre cold air intakes no longer vatozone garbage?

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post #93 of 296 Old 02-04-2017, 10:10 AM
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I've never been particularly good at keeping up with one of these types of threads. I usually just do an entire project end to end and then post pics and answer questions. I will try to keep up with this one for any who are interested. Please bump the thread or ask for updates if I am lacking. I will take pics of anything interesting, tricky stuff to deal with, or anything you would just like to see. This is the best site I have found pertaining to info about the swap itself. We have the 2 premier vendors IMO for this swap here and active on a daily basis answering questions and sharing knowledge. This by itself is invaluable and had I not have had the chance to pour through miles of threads I wouldn't have felt comfortable taking this on.

With all that said, there aren't a ton of individual build threads here for guys like me who are just dangerous enough with a wrench and just optimistic enough to try and tackle this job in their own 2 car garage with the body on. My recorded attempt at this starts now.
I know you already started but it is so much easier to do everything with the body off. I pulled my body when I installed my LS3 and would never try to do it any other way. You have full access to everything that matters that way. And a plus is you don't have to worry about accidently banging the body either.
Good luck to you.
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post #94 of 296 Old 02-04-2017, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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I know you already started but it is so much easier to do everything with the body off. I pulled my body when I installed my LS3 and would never try to do it any other way. You have full access to everything that matters that way. And a plus is you don't have to worry about accidently banging the body either.
Good luck to you.
I really didn't have the facilities available to me to remove the body. I did learn a couple of tricks along the way but all in all I have not run into one issue where I thought "man I really wish I could have removed the body" in some instances I was glad it was on to work around fitment issues WITH the body.
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post #95 of 296 Old 02-09-2017, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not quite done with this yet but the majority of it is there. Just have to hang the mufflers from the x pipe, put on some turndowns, install hangers, and weld in the o2 bungs.










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post #96 of 296 Old 02-09-2017, 09:02 AM
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Looks good so far! Are you not going to run a tailpipe out the back? That is gonna be loud if you just do a turndown off of the muffler or mufflers...

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post #97 of 296 Old 02-09-2017, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Looks good so far! Are you not going to run a tailpipe out the back? That is gonna be loud if you just do a turndown off of the muffler or mufflers...
Nope, and yes it will be.
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post #98 of 296 Old 02-09-2017, 02:17 PM
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Been following your build from the start, it's starting to come together. Looking forward to hearing it when all is done. Nice work.
Did you sell your turbo kit?
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post #99 of 296 Old 02-09-2017, 03:10 PM
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That's coming together nicely. I take it it's going to be muffs where the old fuel tank was?

It's gonna sound sweet!

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post #100 of 296 Old 02-09-2017, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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That's coming together nicely. I take it it's going to be muffs where the old fuel tank was?

It's gonna sound sweet!

The x pipe is already in that area so yes it will be everything from the merge (x pipe) on back in place of where the fuel tank was. As much as I was not for removing the fuel tank its pretty much mandatory on a 2dr to do it like this if you want to use 3" exhaust. That or you wind up with some real funky cross over with the exaust swinging to the drivers side and then it gets REAL tight with the transfer case already swinging to that side. This was the easiest way with the most clearance available and since my stock fuel pump was possibly going to be stretched out with this motor I needed an upgrade anyway.
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Last edited by Dkjeep; 02-09-2017 at 03:20 PM.
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