08' 2dr LS swap build thread. - Page 3 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #51 of 296 Old 12-16-2016, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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I had to end up pulling the battery box anyways to trim it to make room for the dipstick tube. Anybody reading this that's going to do the swap do yourself a huge favor and pull it up front it's literally a five-minute job to pull the battery box out and it's going to save you a ton of headaches not to mention you've got plenty of room to get the manifold on that side of the engine now.

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post #52 of 296 Old 12-17-2016, 09:39 PM
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Looking good man.

Thanks for the pointer on the battery box.

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post #53 of 296 Old 12-18-2016, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Looking good man.

Thanks for the pointer on the battery box.
Thanks man. I've moved onto the transfer case and swapping out the input shaft. That snap ring that holds the stock input shaft in is a real pita to get out.

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post #54 of 296 Old 12-18-2016, 11:42 AM
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If you can find a cheap battery box from a 2012+ on eBay or somewhere, you may want to consider it. Because it changes the orientation of the battery from parallel to the firewall to perpendicular, you get a bit more room on the side of the motor. Either one works, but if you're concerned about the amount of space between the manifolds and the battery, you'll get a couple more inches. Also, while you've got it out, I would go ahead and cut away the old mounting area for the air box. You won't need it and it frees up space for your new air cleaner to breathe.

You can kind of see in this picture how I trimmed mine.



Look at the battery box in this picture and see if you think it would provide any additional space over what you have...

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post #55 of 296 Old 12-18-2016, 03:52 PM
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If you can find a cheap battery box from a 2012+ on eBay or somewhere, you may want to consider it. Because it changes the orientation of the battery from parallel to the firewall to perpendicular, you get a bit more room on the side of the motor. Either one works, but if you're concerned about the amount of space between the manifolds and the battery, you'll get a couple more inches. Also, while you've got it out, I would go ahead and cut away the old mounting area for the air box. You won't need it and it frees up space for your new air cleaner to breathe.

You can kind of see in this picture how I trimmed mine.



Look at the battery box in this picture and see if you think it would provide any additional space over what you have...

I second the 12+ battery tray. 68079473AG we use these on the earlier Jeeps with LS3's when we want to run the corvette covers. I trim the tray down a bit and it exposed the cover nicely.


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post #56 of 296 Old 12-18-2016, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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Is the 12'+ tray actually any narrower? It appears that it does turn the battery long ways but it also appears that it is the same width as there is more room by the fender and by looking around the fuse box it appears to be the same in that area as well....???
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post #57 of 296 Old 12-18-2016, 07:54 PM
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Is the 12'+ tray actually any narrower? It appears that it does turn the battery long ways but it also appears that it is the same width as there is more room by the fender and by looking around the fuse box it appears to be the same in that area as well....???
I'm pretty sure it is. We have a lot more room for engine covers when using the 12+ tray. The TIPM area and forward may not be much different.


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post #58 of 296 Old 12-19-2016, 05:05 PM
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Is the 12'+ tray actually any narrower? It appears that it does turn the battery long ways but it also appears that it is the same width as there is more room by the fender and by looking around the fuse box it appears to be the same in that area as well....???
It angles in quite a bit from the top to the bottom of the battery. The top of it may be almost as wide as the early boxes, but the bottom of it hugs pretty close to the battery. I recall reading somewhere that JSS had to use a fabricated box in the '07 to '11 for Hemi installs, but the 2012+ box would clear it. The Hemi is dimensionally bigger than the LS motors, from what I understand.

I'm not sure if it's worth the money to do it. I was just suggesting while you have it out, you may want to check into it. Either way, I'm watching the build and I'm excited for you. I love my 430hp LS3... I'm sure yours will be a monster with 525!
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post #59 of 296 Old 12-19-2016, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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It angles in quite a bit from the top to the bottom of the battery. The top of it may be almost as wide as the early boxes, but the bottom of it hugs pretty close to the battery. I recall reading somewhere that JSS had to use a fabricated box in the '07 to '11 for Hemi installs, but the 2012+ box would clear it. The Hemi is dimensionally bigger than the LS motors, from what I understand.

I'm not sure if it's worth the money to do it. I was just suggesting while you have it out, you may want to check into it. Either way, I'm watching the build and I'm excited for you. I love my 430hp LS3... I'm sure yours will be a monster with 525!
It's not even $100 I'll probably do it just to try it out and freshen that up anyways. Mine is busted after it fought the engine.
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post #60 of 296 Old 12-22-2016, 11:44 AM
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You guys really have a lot more room near the firewall with that ls3! My truck 6.0 intake manifold is really tight back there. I cant even see my heater core hoses...lol ;-)

08 JKU 6.0 LC8 6L80 Atlas 2 39" KM3's on Trilogy race beadlocks, prorock 44,rcv's arb front. rock jock 60 rear 40spline shafts,arb 5.13's and a bunch of other stuff
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post #61 of 296 Old 12-22-2016, 08:34 PM
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You guys really have a lot more room near the firewall with that ls3! My truck 6.0 intake manifold is really tight back there. I cant even see my heater core hoses...lol ;-)
Thats what I noticed and thought. Sure will make taken care of those hoses a lot easier.

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post #62 of 296 Old 12-23-2016, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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You guys really have a lot more room near the firewall with that ls3! My truck 6.0 intake manifold is really tight back there. I cant even see my heater core hoses...lol ;-)
There is a ton of room back there and that one tight area where the passenger side head was close to the firewall has doubled its clearance since really dialing in where I want the tail stock of the trans to sit.


Otherwise it's inching along. I welded the plates for the trans mount to to the crossmember. Not necessary I know but felt right to do it after I had the where I want them. I got the new gas pedal installed. I finally figured out what I did wrong with the a/c and will touch on that later. Next is the exhaust shop right after Christmas and then it's moving along quickly. Should be able to start it sometime right around the first of the year.

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post #63 of 296 Old 12-23-2016, 04:26 PM
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You will love the extra power for sure! I know a lot of people have said this, but this is really how these jk's should have come from the factory!

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post #64 of 296 Old 12-24-2016, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quick question, I am about to get the transfer case back up in the next couple of days and I was wondering what the issue would be with clocking it down one set of holes since the adapter allows it? This would help with front driveshaft angle quite a bit but without putting it up there I cant see what kind of problems it would create. Just looking for some real world advise.
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post #65 of 296 Old 12-27-2016, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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So, I got the transfer case back up onto the trans today and JESUS its close to the rear axle. I plan to adjust the rear axle a bit further back but not enough to where this stock driveshaft will even work for the time being. I even moved the frame mounts for the engine up 1/2" trying to buy a little bit of room back there.

Anyways, I can grab the transfer case and move the tail end of the trans side to side. If I pull it closer to the passenger side it creates more room for me in some places that I could use it. If I leave it closer to the center or drivers side it aligns the driveshaft yokes better to be straight on with each other. Is this alignment critical for the driveshaft? I would really like to have it pulled to the passenger side a tad but don't want to screw with anything that will cause me an issue.
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post #66 of 296 Old 12-27-2016, 05:09 PM
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So, I got the transfer case back up onto the trans today and JESUS its close to the rear axle. I plan to adjust the rear axle a bit further back but not enough to where this stock driveshaft will even work for the time being. I even moved the frame mounts for the engine up 1/2" trying to buy a little bit of room back there.

Anyways, I can grab the transfer case and move the tail end of the trans side to side. If I pull it closer to the passenger side it creates more room for me in some places that I could use it. If I leave it closer to the center or drivers side it aligns the driveshaft yokes better to be straight on with each other. Is this alignment critical for the driveshaft? I would really like to have it pulled to the passenger side a tad but don't want to screw with anything that will cause me an issue.
I'm far from a drive shaft expert, so hopefully someone smarter will chime in.

I think you wouldn't want the t-case output and the pinion to not be parallel in plan view. And swinging the ass end of the t-case will defiantly make them not parallel to each other. The drive shaft is already speeding up and slowing down twice per revolution due to the side view misalignment (height difference). Adding a whole other misalignment on another plane with it's own speeding up and slowing down of the shaft, could bring on vibrations you'd be chasing forever.

Many vehicles run an offset between the t-case and pinion in plan view, but they are parallel to each other. Which would mean the speed up/slow down would cancel each other out.

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post #67 of 296 Old 12-28-2016, 12:08 PM
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On 2 doors we run the engine slightly more forward and run the short TC adapter to get the longest driveshaft possible. Driveshaft angle can be tricky on a 2 door since the rear shaft is so short. If your 2 door has more than a 3" lift the pinion angle can get steep and cause a vibration under load. You want to wind the pinion up to give you a +\- 2% angle at ride height, do not run it straight on from a side view. 2 doors with a lot of lift may require you to relocate the spring perches, swaybar mounts..... so they are not angled backwards.

Run a CV shaft with yokes to get maximum driveshaft length. The R-zeppa's won't hold up to a 500 HP engine. The OE power-train is offset towards the passenger side. If running a stock rear axle or a replacement rear axle with the pumpkin lined up with the crossmember hoops the driveshaft should be a straight shot to the pinion when viewed from above AT RIDE HEIGHT. Your engine mounts should have the engine offset to line up with these hoops.

As the axle travels up and down it shifts left and right due to the arc of the track bar travel. A 4 link or Watts Z style set up does not have this side to side movement so it is not as critical. You do not want the axle to shift to the left or right too much or this can cause a vibration.

It's all a compromise, shoot for a pinion angle of +\- 2% at ride height. James over at Adams Driveline and myself spent a lot of time working vibrations out of 2 doors and it is more of an art than science. Sometimes a -2% pinion angle will vibrate but +2% will not.

Get the axle centered in the chassis at ride height. Get the driveline straight and perpendicular with the axle at ride height. The axle will move left and right with suspension travel but there is not a lot you can do about that, a good CV shaft will handle some angle. If you have adjustable arms wind the rear axle back to increase the WB as much as you can.

4 doors are much easier to work with because the driveshaft is longer and not subject to the steep angles of the 2 door.

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post #68 of 296 Old 12-31-2016, 05:57 AM
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08' 2dr LS swap build thread.

Looking good man

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post #69 of 296 Old 01-06-2017, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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It's been going slow for me. I just got over being sick as a dog for the last week or so. I got a few things buttoned up tonight and am hopefully trailering it to the exhaust shop tomorrow and dropping it off for a mandrel bent 3" exhaust system.







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post #70 of 296 Old 01-06-2017, 10:24 PM
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Damn. Those headers look like they fit perfect. Lots of room. Plus, they just look cool.
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post #71 of 296 Old 01-07-2017, 07:26 AM
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Looking good!
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post #72 of 296 Old 01-07-2017, 08:37 AM
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It's been going slow for me. I just got over being sick as a dog for the last week or so. I got a few things buttoned up tonight and am hopefully trailering it to the exhaust shop tomorrow and dropping it off for a mandrel bent 3" exhaust system.







Looks great!!! Can I ask what that exhaust job is going to run? Does it include CATs or not? thanks
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post #73 of 296 Old 01-07-2017, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Damn. Those headers look like they fit perfect. Lots of room. Plus, they just look cool.
PLENTY of room, The photo is deceptive in a couple of areas, the steering shaft looks close and the passenger side shock tower looks close but neither get within 2" of the headders at any point. I trimmed back the passenger side upper control arm mount for clearance. It is tighter on that side since the motor is offset to that side. Not to mention the bell housing of the trans is fatter over there to make room for the starter.

Those ARP headder studs are a really nice piece of kit as well.
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post #74 of 296 Old 01-07-2017, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Looks great!!! Can I ask what that exhaust job is going to run? Does it include CATs or not? thanks

I am not running cats and I am only running the 2 upstream 02 sensors for now at least. Last night I decided that I am not taking it anywhere for exhaust. My buddy that was going to help me trailer it out had something come up and that was the last nail in the coffin that I needed to finally decide that I am just going to do it myself. I will be ordering today all of the bends that I know that I need to get me started doing the job. My other buddy that I constantly exchange favors with is a very experienced welder and has welded tons of stainless stuff for food grade application in restaurants etc... I have 2 different types of band saws here when I need to make cuts so me and him are going to give it our best shot at mocking it up and tacking it all together then drop it out and finish weld it up. Should be interesting and I will take plenty of pics.

I just CANNOT stand the thought of taking my vehicles anywhere that I have to leave them. Every time I do that I find something that either they did or caused that pisses me off. Id rather suffer through doing it myself and it never leave my garage where I have control.
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post #75 of 296 Old 01-07-2017, 03:56 PM
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I just CANNOT stand the thought of taking my vehicles anywhere that I have to leave them. Every time I do that I find something that either they did or caused that pisses me off. Id rather suffer through doing it myself and it never leave my garage where I have control.
I know the feeling. I HATE taking my car to a dealer for warranty repair. I am so glad when the warranty is over and I can just fix it myself or use my mechanic who treats my stuff like I treat my stuff.
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