08' 2dr LS swap build thread. - Page 2 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #26 of 296 Old 12-05-2016, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Your talking about countersinking for something like this correct?

Sooooo..... the bolts that hold that cover on are M8 x 1mm thread pitch and measure 48mm long. They are also freaking impossible to find in a countersunk screw like you linked. I could slap that cover on the mill and prep it in 15 minutes for those screws if I could source them. It's the thread pitch of 1mm that I can't find. I would get a shorter length of 45mm end to end if I could find it. 1.25 thread pitch is available everywhere but not the fine thread 1mm pitch.
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post #27 of 296 Old 12-05-2016, 10:21 AM
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If you would have secured the engine hoist chain around the rear exhaust ports on the manifolds, as you jacked up the engine/tranny for removal it would have went to a naturally balanced angle that is perfect for removing the engine/tranny without removing the sway bar. My crash bar has been gone for a few years so I'm not sure if it would have been in the way.

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post #28 of 296 Old 12-05-2016, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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If you would have secured the engine hoist chain around the rear exhaust ports on the manifolds, as you jacked up the engine/tranny for removal it would have went to a naturally balanced angle that is perfect for removing the engine/tranny without removing the sway bar. My crash bar has been gone for a few years so I'm not sure if it would have been in the way.
Even with the boom on the hoist extended to the last hole I still couldn't push the hoist in far enough to touch the throttle body. I cut it out clean so worse case I can easily weld it back in place if I have to. Not really a big deal to remove it either, was 30 seconds with a demo blade on the ole sawzall.
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post #29 of 296 Old 12-05-2016, 11:52 AM
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Just noticed in one of your pics that your trans bracket is bolted to your crossmember. What I did is bolt it to the crossmember, made sure everything else lined up, and then welded the brackets to the crossmember and then removed the bolts. I didn't like how they stuck out below the bottom of the crossmember. Just an idea for ya!

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post #30 of 296 Old 12-05-2016, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Just noticed in one of your pics that your trans bracket is bolted to your crossmember. What I did is bolt it to the crossmember, made sure everything else lined up, and then welded the brackets to the crossmember and then removed the bolts. I didn't like how they stuck out below the bottom of the crossmember. Just an idea for ya!
Totes on the same page on that. I am just going to get it lined up and snug the bolts down. Then remove, weld, and remove bolts.
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post #31 of 296 Old 12-05-2016, 01:34 PM
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Sooooo..... the bolts that hold that cover on are M8 x 1mm thread pitch and measure 48mm long. They are also freaking impossible to find in a countersunk screw like you linked. I could slap that cover on the mill and prep it in 15 minutes for those screws if I could source them. It's the thread pitch of 1mm that I can't find. I would get a shorter length of 45mm end to end if I could find it. 1.25 thread pitch is available everywhere but not the fine thread 1mm pitch.
Well shit. Only thing I found was Hard to Find Metric Fasteners and Metric Screws with No Minimums had 30mm long in that size, but was out of stock.

Is there enough meat to sink a non-counter sunk socket head in there?

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post #32 of 296 Old 12-05-2016, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Well shit. Only thing I found was Hard to Find Metric Fasteners and Metric Screws with No Minimums had 30mm long in that size, but was out of stock.

Is there enough meat to sink a non-counter sunk socket head in there?
Need 45mm long total. My initial impression is that yes a Fastener like that will work for this.
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post #33 of 296 Old 12-05-2016, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Next issue is that I don't see any way that the frame will NOT have to be notched for the A/C line. The way the cover for the compressor is made you can't just clock it one set of holes over and if you did it would put the other hose in a bad spot.

The side of the frame bracket here will sit flush against the frame. It does not take a genius to see that there isn't enough room there.

Once again I was aware of this potential issue. It's not a horrible problem but a time consuming one for sure.
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post #34 of 296 Old 12-05-2016, 03:36 PM
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Check out coldhose.com (no affiliation, just a previous customer) and they should be able to get you a street 90* that you should then be able to take to a straight hose fitting for a much tighter package and frame avoidance.
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post #35 of 296 Old 12-05-2016, 07:33 PM
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Your trying to gauge fittment without the engine installed. Things will look different once it's in between the frame rails and bolted down.

The bolts on the back of the AC compressor usually barely touch or barely don't touch. I doubt you will need to clearance much.

The hose you have was physicaly installed on a jeep with the same drive setup before we sent it to you and it cleared the frame. Granted there is not much room and you have to clock the hose up a bit.

I think you should do a good bolted down test fit and see how things lay out.
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post #36 of 296 Old 12-05-2016, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Your trying to gauge fittment without the engine installed. Things will look different once it's in between the frame rails and bolted down.

The bolts on the back of the AC compressor usually barely touch or barely don't touch. I doubt you will need to clearance much.

The hose you have was physicaly installed on a jeep with the same drive setup before we sent it to you and it cleared the frame. Granted there is not much room and you have to clock the hose up a bit.

I think you should do a good bolted down test fit and see how things lay out.
Fair enough, will do that and report back.
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post #37 of 296 Old 12-06-2016, 07:40 AM
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post #38 of 296 Old 12-12-2016, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Moving forward. Should be getting the engine and trans in and settled this week.

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post #39 of 296 Old 12-12-2016, 08:23 PM
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Looks like a lot of room in there when it's empty.

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post #40 of 296 Old 12-13-2016, 03:06 AM
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Just a suggestion from when I installed the engine. I left the exhaust manifolds off and removed the driver side acc. mounts. Reinstalled the exhaust manifolds before I completely dropped the motor onto the motor mounts and then the acc. mount after the motor was down and in.

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post #41 of 296 Old 12-13-2016, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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Definitely not going to have any exhaust manifolds on when I stab it in there. I saw one guys thread where he fought it for hours and then pulled the manifolds and it slipped right in. He even had his battery box out and I do not.

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post #42 of 296 Old 12-13-2016, 01:38 PM
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Yeah it will not go in with the manifolds on. I did not remove my battery box either.

Leaving the drivers side acc. mounts off just gave me more room to maneuver around the steering gearbox.

I see you removed the front crash bar, I did not and I could not get the motor down and in with the hoist chained front and back. I ended up using my atv lift and supporting the transmission and removed the rear hoist chain and then just rolled it back into position then lowered it all the way into place after installing the exhaust manifolds.

You probably already have a good idea as to how to go about getting it in. I am just throwing things out that I remember to maybe help out if possible.

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post #43 of 296 Old 12-13-2016, 02:03 PM
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I left my stock ls3 manifolds on and it dropped right in place. I did remove my battery box though cause I installed a genesis dual battery setup.

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post #44 of 296 Old 12-13-2016, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Well she's hooked up, got the convertor filled with 1qt of fluid and got it all connected together. Tomorrow I will have an extra set of hands and it should be sitting in there. I do plan on having my jack at the ready with a couple of boards to raise the back end of the trans up so I can get the cross member on.

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post #45 of 296 Old 12-13-2016, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah it will not go in with the manifolds on. I did not remove my battery box either.

Leaving the drivers side acc. mounts off just gave me more room to maneuver around the steering gearbox.

I see you removed the front crash bar, I did not and I could not get the motor down and in with the hoist chained front and back. I ended up using my atv lift and supporting the transmission and removed the rear hoist chain and then just rolled it back into position then lowered it all the way into place after installing the exhaust manifolds.

You probably already have a good idea as to how to go about getting it in. I am just throwing things out that I remember to maybe help out if possible.
I couldn't get the stock motor out without cutting it out. A traditional style cherry picker just does not have the ability to reach in that far when you have something like that so close to the front end preventing it.
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post #46 of 296 Old 12-15-2016, 02:37 AM
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post #47 of 296 Old 12-15-2016, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Well she's sitting in there on her own. It was way more labor intensive than I figured it would be. Considering I was sitting the engine in and out of the mounts by myself fairly effortlessly, once the trans is hanging off the back it changes everything. Fought it for a good 45 minutes and finally got it in. I will say that if I ever do it again I will pull the battery box. It would have made it much easier.

The only place I have tight clearance is on the rear passenger side. There is maybe 1/2" of clearance there.



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post #48 of 296 Old 12-15-2016, 06:36 PM
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Yeah its tight for sure! Make sure you drill out that hole for the chrysler coolant temp sensor where that hex plug is. Unless your kit doesn't use that...

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post #49 of 296 Old 12-15-2016, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah its tight for sure! Make sure you drill out that hole for the chrysler coolant temp sensor where that hex plug is. Unless your kit doesn't use that...
99% sure it does not use it. Pretty sure it uses the GM sensor that comes on the motor.
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post #50 of 296 Old 12-15-2016, 07:08 PM
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99% sure it does not use it. Pretty sure it uses the GM sensor that comes on the motor.
Extra sensor is not needed.


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