08' 2dr LS swap build thread. - Page 10 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #226 of 296 Old 09-14-2017, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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Damn it. I just ran into the same issue. Didn't know it since I usually have the A/C on but last weekend I took the top and doors off then realized my fan was not changing with the engine temp climbing. It is only rock crawling I have an issue. With the 52mm radiator I don't even need a fan driving around town or freeway.
I was getting close to 220 with the a/c off and the old fan settings. Now it's running around 205ish.

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post #227 of 296 Old 09-14-2017, 07:04 PM
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08' 2dr LS swap build thread.

Are those temps even an issue though? Boiling temp is elevated under pressure and the chemistry of the coolant so over 212 isn't a problem. 220 is still perfectly safe.

I've been monitoring my 2015 ECT for shits and giggles and the stock 3.6 will get up to almost 220 but hang out in the 210 range mostly.


But for what it's worth, the 07 with the 5.3 would get to 203 and stay rock solid on that number. Only saw it climb to like 208 a handful of times.


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post #228 of 296 Old 09-15-2017, 06:56 AM
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220 isn't overly bad for the LS but shouldn't creep up that high just driving around; could lead to worse conditions.

My problem was rock crawling at very low speed and didn't have my laptop so I'm not sure how hot it was but my overflow tank puked all over the place. That's when I realized my fan was not running properly. I turned the A/C on and the fan jumped up and cooled everything down.


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post #229 of 296 Old 09-15-2017, 08:54 AM
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Fan setting are as follows.
PWM Fan is set for the low range speed until about 202 and then it runs in the medium range. Once it hits 221 it runs in the high speed range.

In the 220 range the jeep gauge will be moving off of normal range and by 235 it will be close to 3/4.

My Jeep even in very hot trail rides will run on low speed unless Iím really beating on it.
It will usually run around 200-210 during normal driving and will idle down to low speed only.

These motors were designed to run 235 and not hit overtime protection until 245 or so.

As the engine gets hotter the coolant expands and goes into the recovery tank. The tanks we use are pretty small so when the engine is cold you should only have it about 1/4-1/3 full. If it has too much it will purge it out when the engine gets warm. It doesn't mean its overheating.

If it was overheating the gauge would be high and a ton of coolant would be blowing out and shaking. Also the fans would be on full blast regardless of the AC settings.


I just did a test. I unplugged my fan and let it run.
It took about 20 minutes before it started to get hot. I let it get to 240 and then plugged back in the fan. Within 1 minute it was back to 194 and the fan was back to low speed.

I watched the commanded fan speed as the temp was rising and they were right on target as well as dropping down as the temp came back down once the fan was reconnected.


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post #230 of 296 Old 09-15-2017, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Are those temps even an issue though? Boiling temp is elevated under pressure and the chemistry of the coolant so over 212 isn't a problem. 220 is still perfectly safe.

I've been monitoring my 2015 ECT for shits and giggles and the stock 3.6 will get up to almost 220 but hang out in the 210 range mostly.


But for what it's worth, the 07 with the 5.3 would get to 203 and stay rock solid on that number. Only saw it climb to like 208 a handful of times.


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No, I don't believe that 220 is bad at all and I wasn't even quite there yet. What I do believe though is that I have plenty of cooling system and the system is more than capable of keeping the coolant temp down into the low 200's all the time. I'm thinking about more than just coolant temp though. I am still concerned with IAT's and am still thinking of a way to tinker with that to help lower those. What I see is that if the engine is running upwards of 20 degrees cooler then that makes a good difference in under hood temps and could translate to lower IAT's. Its obvious that these engines have a 195 stat in them so I like to try and keep it close to that.
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post #231 of 296 Old 09-16-2017, 06:05 AM
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Are you using the GM ECT sensor or the Jeep 3.6 ECT sensor? I question the resolution of the Jeep one after watching mine yesterday. It would jump from 200 to 205, then back to 195 ish, then up to 200 and on to 210+, wash and repeat. I would not expect a sensor with high resolution to report coolant fluctuations that quickly, or expect coolant to cool and heat up that quickly when the thermostat opens/closes.

This also makes me question the placement of the sensor on the Jeep engines... wonder if its in a hot pocket area. This wouldn't apply to your LS install I wouldn't think. Just some food for thought.

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post #232 of 296 Old 09-16-2017, 08:24 AM
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No, I don't believe that 220 is bad at all and I wasn't even quite there yet. What I do believe though is that I have plenty of cooling system and the system is more than capable of keeping the coolant temp down into the low 200's all the time. I'm thinking about more than just coolant temp though. I am still concerned with IAT's and am still thinking of a way to tinker with that to help lower those. What I see is that if the engine is running upwards of 20 degrees cooler then that makes a good difference in under hood temps and could translate to lower IAT's. Its obvious that these engines have a 195 stat in them so I like to try and keep it close to that.
DKJEEP we have yours setup to move from low speed to mid speed around 195.

There is not much need to have the fan blasting when the thermostat is closed.


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post #233 of 296 Old 09-16-2017, 08:29 AM
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Are you using the GM ECT sensor or the Jeep 3.6 ECT sensor? I question the resolution of the Jeep one after watching mine yesterday. It would jump from 200 to 205, then back to 195 ish, then up to 200 and on to 210+, wash and repeat. I would not expect a sensor with high resolution to report coolant fluctuations that quickly, or expect coolant to cool and heat up that quickly when the thermostat opens/closes.

This also makes me question the placement of the sensor on the Jeep engines... wonder if its in a hot pocket area. This wouldn't apply to your LS install I wouldn't think. Just some food for thought.
With our CAN based LS swaps we use the GM coolant sensor to run the gauges and everything. You should see an accurate temp reading of the engine.
The gauge will actually move more with our setup because for some reason chrysler decided to dampen the gauge reading on the stock vehicles to hide the temp fluctuation.
I would rather see my gauge start to creep up when the engine is getting warmer, not shoot to hot once the engine has overheated.


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post #234 of 296 Old 09-16-2017, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Are you using the GM ECT sensor or the Jeep 3.6 ECT sensor? I question the resolution of the Jeep one after watching mine yesterday. It would jump from 200 to 205, then back to 195 ish, then up to 200 and on to 210+, wash and repeat. I would not expect a sensor with high resolution to report coolant fluctuations that quickly, or expect coolant to cool and heat up that quickly when the thermostat opens/closes.

This also makes me question the placement of the sensor on the Jeep engines... wonder if its in a hot pocket area. This wouldn't apply to your LS install I wouldn't think. Just some food for thought.
I am using the coolant temp sensor that came with the LS engine. It is on the drivers side head. This plugs into the GM harness and I am reading it through the OBD port from the GM harness.
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post #235 of 296 Old 09-21-2017, 12:29 PM
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nice build
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post #236 of 296 Old 09-23-2017, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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A lot of folks had stated with the 6l80 that 5.13 was too steep of a ratio. Granted I am on 40" tires this negates a bit of that BUT, on the HWY this thing lugs when it gets into 6th and the convertor locks up. I am positive that even with a 37 that 5.13 is more than manageable and the torque is crazy. Like snap your head against the headrest when you blip the go pedal and thats on 40's....
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post #237 of 296 Old 09-23-2017, 12:28 PM
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A lot of folks had stated with the 6l80 that 5.13 was too steep of a ratio. Granted I am on 40" tires this negates a bit of that BUT, on the HWY this thing lugs when it gets into 6th and the convertor locks up. I am positive that even with a 37 that 5.13 is more than manageable and the torque is crazy. Like snap your head against the headrest when you blip the go pedal and thats on 40's....
I think most people want their JK to run like the truck their engine came out of. Silly if you ask me.

What rpm are you running on the freeway?

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post #238 of 296 Old 09-23-2017, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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I think most people want their JK to run like the truck their engine came out of. Silly if you ask me.

What rpm are you running on the freeway?
I have not got up to more than 65ish. I am afraid to find out exactly where the price will have to be paid for not balancing the tires one bit. I am sure at some speed it will start to come undone. For now though at that speed it is surprisingly smooth and when it gets to 6th and locks up and starts to lug along it cant be doing anymore than 2k. I haven't paid attention to the exact rpm but I will next time out. The tuner really swapped the trans tuning around from the way that Jon had it. The convertor doesn't lock up really at all in any of the gears until you get to 5th. I don't know if its tuned to lock up in the higher RPM range in the lower gears as I have not ran it up high yet or floored it yet. My reading tells me that it should and will feel real nice when it does. The convertor has been NICE so far. Its always seems to be in the power band range even from low speed or takeoff. Just easing along it will flash to about 2500. Its weird to watch and feel the vehicle accelerate but the RPM hardly change. If you apply more pedal it will flash up to its stall speed and the motor really likes it from there on up.

The trade off to this so far is.... just going around town the trans fluid temp starts to heat up. Ive done a shit ton of reading on the 6l80 and the consensus is that 200 aint shit for these BUT 170ish is waaay better. Well I hit 150-160 really quick and then it very slowly climbs up to 170 and a bit slower up to 180 and repeat that up to 190 and I hit 200 today. I jumped on the hwy at 190 degrees trans temp and within a few miles I was back down to 174. I feel like it may have kept dropping a bit more if I would have stayed on the hwy. In town though its like thermal runaway.
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post #239 of 296 Old 09-23-2017, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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I think most people want their JK to run like the truck their engine came out of. Silly if you ask me.

What rpm are you running on the freeway?
Just went out again, I keep needing to go get fuel for some reason

On the Hwy, with my speedo and GPS both showing right at 60mph. I am showing 1775 rpm in 6th with the convertor locked up on both the dash and my torque app. Like I said 5.13 IMO puts you right where you need to be with larger tires.
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post #240 of 296 Old 09-23-2017, 10:53 PM
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Just went out again, I keep needing to go get fuel for some reason

On the Hwy, with my speedo and GPS both showing right at 60mph. I am showing 1775 rpm in 6th with the convertor locked up on both the dash and my torque app. Like I said 5.13 IMO puts you right where you need to be with larger tires.
That sounds just about perfect.

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post #241 of 296 Old 11-14-2017, 09:52 AM
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Now that you've had it rolling for a few months, how's it running?

Besides the fact you want to boost it.

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post #242 of 296 Old 11-17-2017, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Now that you've had it rolling for a few months, how's it running?

Besides the fact you want to boost it.

Good, I have gone full steam ahead on another project non jeep related and only drive this on the weekends. Its been very reliable, since I started driving it I haven't had to do anything to it. I've only put on about 400 miles so I'm getting close to that first oil change. Its loud, it will bust the tires loose at part throttle, and its fun.

I will put a bit more miles on it before I get serious about the blower BUT I am doing my homework on that for sure. I am not sure the cam in these motors will play nice with that kind of overlap. Either way I believe that will happen at some point next year along with a much larger rear axle with rear steer.
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post #243 of 296 Old 12-01-2017, 09:35 AM
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Good, I have gone full steam ahead on another project non jeep related and only drive this on the weekends. Its been very reliable, since I started driving it I haven't had to do anything to it. I've only put on about 400 miles so I'm getting close to that first oil change. Its loud, it will bust the tires loose at part throttle, and its fun.

I will put a bit more miles on it before I get serious about the blower BUT I am doing my homework on that for sure. I am not sure the cam in these motors will play nice with that kind of overlap. Either way I believe that will happen at some point next year along with a much larger rear axle with rear steer.
Ya, I don't think the ASA cam we have would work very well with boost. It has a narrow lobe separation and a lot of overlap. A custom grind, taking in to account the weigh, gearing, tire size, etc. of the Jeep would be the way to go.

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post #244 of 296 Old 01-02-2018, 05:39 PM
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Interested in an update on the headers now that you have a few miles on them. How is the finish holding up? Any issues with loose fasteners or flange leaks?

Also, can you confirm that you had clearance (realizing you trimmed the pass. UCA mount) to come off of the header with a 3" 45* bend?

I'm here in FTW and wouldn't mind seeing the setup first hand given the opportunity as I am getting ready to redo the exhaust on my LS3.
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post #245 of 296 Old 01-03-2018, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Interested in an update on the headers now that you have a few miles on them. How is the finish holding up? Any issues with loose fasteners or flange leaks?

Also, can you confirm that you had clearance (realizing you trimmed the pass. UCA mount) to come off of the header with a 3" 45* bend?

I'm here in FTW and wouldn't mind seeing the setup first hand given the opportunity as I am getting ready to redo the exhaust on my LS3.

Plenty of room and this is with 3" tubing. It doesn't look like there will be much room until you get the pipe in there and then you see there will be plenty. You will need to trim a tad off of the upper mount though. I bet it would clear even without doing it but you should to provide adequate clearance.

Headers are holding up like a champ, I did NOT install a header gasket. I used a light coat of the ultra high temp orange/copper colored permatex around the exhaust ports. I did use a copper flange gasket from sanderson (which is who makes the headers). No leaks at all so far even when really cold, as you know its been in the teens here this week. I attribute that partially to using good quality hardware. get the ARP headder stud kit and the headder bolt kit. Also get as thick of flange as you can for the exhaust tubing to bolt up to the header with.

You're not going to pull this off easy with a 2dr unless you ditch the tank though. I went fuel cell for a variety of reasons the clearance needed for this exhaust being one of them.

This is a breakdown of what I have in the exhaust and the part #'s. This was able to be 100% done in the floor of my garage. I will say that I ordered about 1.75 too many sticks of the 4' long straight stainless pipe.

ARP exhaust collector bolts P/N: 400-1215 $39.99

ARP headder stud kit P/N: 434-1301 $108.33

3" stainless x pipe (ebay special) $49.53

RPM EXTREME ceramic headers $595

Borla XR-1 mufflers x2 P/N: 40943 $301.98

Sanderson 3" gasket P/N: SHN-COPPER3 $35.00

Pypes 3/8" stainless flange x2, P/N: HVF13S $26.72

o2 bungs stainless M18 x 1.5 $12

o2 sensors x2 P/N: 12583804 $96.32

Verocious Motorsports 304 stainless $463.27
mandrel bends

2x 3", 90 degree bends on 3" radius
2x 3", 45 degree bends on 3" radius
3x 3", 4' long tubing
4x 1/2" rubber exhaust hanger
4x 1/2" exhaust hanger rod
9x 3", 45 degree elbows


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post #246 of 296 Old 01-03-2018, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Also, I've heard that kooks is coming out with long tubes for these jeeps with LS engines.
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post #247 of 296 Old 01-03-2018, 05:46 PM
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Also, I've heard that kooks is coming out with long tubes for these jeeps with LS engines.
That would be nice. Jeep sounds fantastic.

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post #248 of 296 Old 01-03-2018, 07:04 PM
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Appreciate the reply, thing sounds great. Luckily, in this case, Iím dealing with a JKU so no tank worries, just another 90.

Full length headers would be fantastic, may have to put in a call and see how close they are.
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post #249 of 296 Old 01-03-2018, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Appreciate the reply, thing sounds great. Luckily, in this case, Iím dealing with a JKU so no tank worries, just another 90.

Full length headers would be fantastic, may have to put in a call and see how close they are.
Get your wallet out, they are super proud of their stuff.

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post #250 of 296 Old 01-03-2018, 07:37 PM
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That sounds like fun right there. Surprised you still have rubber on the rims.
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