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post #1 of 8 Old 05-01-2009, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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fuse question

do i need an in-line fuse from positive on battery to accessory lights? if so what amperage is reccomended for two 150w lights?


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post #2 of 8 Old 05-01-2009, 07:05 PM
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Since Watts= amps X volts, amp= watts/volts----->150w/12v= 12.5 amps so a 15 amp fuse should work
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post #3 of 8 Old 05-02-2009, 04:59 AM
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Be sure to run the lights to a relay first, don't run them straight off the battery, the switch will melt.

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post #4 of 8 Old 05-02-2009, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeperjkjeeper View Post
do i need an in-line fuse from positive on battery to accessory lights?
yes, always, unless you like fires that is

and seeing as you will be adding more electrical stuff later on, now is a good time to add an additional fuse block under the hood for these accesories. Get one from a boat place or whatever, just not one of the crap ones from autozone.
It will make life easier in the long run and keep under the hood clean/neat.
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post #5 of 8 Old 05-03-2009, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eugene View Post
Since Watts= amps X volts, amp= watts/volts----->150w/12v= 12.5 amps so a 15 amp fuse should work
Thats just 1 bulb. Double it for 2 bulbs and you get around 25 amps. I say around because we don't know if the bulbs were rated at 12 volts or at the 13.8 volts they frequently run at. If they were rated at 150 watts at 12 volts then they will use 12.5 amps at 12 volts. However, if you feed the same bulb 13.8 volts it will use around 14.4 amps an put out around 198 watts. These numbers are not exact because of rounding and the lamps voltage/current curve probably isn't strictly linear.

The point here is that because we're uncertain of the actual ratings, circuit components have to be somewhat oversized. Realistically, this circuit could easily draw 29 amps. Yes there are switches out there that are rated at 30 amps maximum. Too close for my comfort. This circuit will definitely need a relay to be safe. If it were me, I would size the relay, wire, and fuse for 40 amps. The additional benefit of using a relay is that you can use almost any switch you want to turn on the relay.

Edit: Try a 30 amp fuse. If it lasts for 10 minutes at full load with at least 2000 engine RPM you should be good to go. Feel the fuse and see if its hot. If it is too hot to touch you're on the verge of blowing it so switch to the 40. Just don't go above the 40 because the relay and wiring aren't sized for it.

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Last edited by Alter Ego; 05-04-2009 at 06:00 AM.
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post #6 of 8 Old 05-04-2009, 12:02 PM
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At least you are asking the right questions...

Oh yeh.. fuses and relays....you don't want this:

-John the sPOD guy
switches jeeps panels jk-forum carling contura led switch windshield
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post #7 of 8 Old 05-04-2009, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by sPOD-guy View Post
Oh yeh.. fuses and relays....you don't want this:
hey thats was my jeep i was wiring up my neon undercar kit lol



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post #8 of 8 Old 05-04-2009, 02:13 PM
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Hey Dr.Dirty...you will not have this problem!!!! And you know why!
More important than a "meltdown" like the picture is that you want to keep your accessories electrics separate from and CANBus system wires as possible.

Look for the UPS guy (or girl) tomorrow!

-John the sPOD guy
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