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post #1 of 7 Old 08-01-2012, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Intermittent starting problem

I have been having an intermittent starting problem. I have an 08 unlimited with auto trans. I will shift into park and try to restart and it just clicks. I have to shift in and out of park or to neutral for it to start.

Is there a switch somewhere that sees its in park to allow it to start?
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post #2 of 7 Old 08-01-2012, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jschmidt View Post
I have been having an intermittent starting problem. I have an 08 unlimited with auto trans. I will shift into park and try to restart and it just clicks. I have to shift in and out of park or to neutral for it to start.

Is there a switch somewhere that sees its in park to allow it to start?
Check the trans range sensor (TRS). Also do a search, there is many threads related to no start tsb's and issues.

For those having starting issues related to the TRS we have an electronic board which replaces the failure prone unit inside the transmission.

It is installed in the cab away from heat and contaminated fluid and is programmable for all JK's prior to 2012. It handles the PRNDL, reverse lights and the neutral safety functions and plugs into the OE connector.

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post #3 of 7 Old 08-01-2012, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoTech View Post
Check the trans range sensor (TRS). Also do a search, there is many threads related to no start tsb's and issues.

For those having starting issues related to the TRS we have an electronic board which replaces the failure prone unit inside the transmission.

It is installed in the cab away from heat and contaminated fluid and is programmable for all JK's prior to 2012. It handles the PRNDL, reverse lights and the neutral safety functions and plugs into the OE connector.
Something I don't understand about the "click-no-start" and the TRS...
When I put the transmission lever in anything but P or N, I don't get even a click. So for those who get just a click, why does moving the lever usually allow it to click and start?

It's unclear whether people are hearing the click from the starter relay in the TIPM, or the solenoid on the starter. If the electricity gets to the point where either one clicks, it should indicate all is well with the TRS.

2008 Unlimited Rubicon Automatic
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post #4 of 7 Old 08-01-2012, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
Something I don't understand about the "click-no-start" and the TRS...
When I put the transmission lever in anything but P or N, I don't get even a click. So for those who get just a click, why does moving the lever usually allow it to click and start?

It's unclear whether people are hearing the click from the starter relay in the TIPM, or the solenoid on the starter. If the electricity gets to the point where either one clicks, it should indicate all is well with the TRS.
It's tough to say it is the TRS. If you hear the starter solenoid click it is usually an indication the circuit from the key to the starter is functional...but not always. The TRS uses very small contacts to complete the starter circuit, they run in trans fluid which is often dirty or contaminated.

Electrical circuits fail when they are under a load, that is why we perform voltage drops on the circuit while the load is present. I can't tell you how many times I have had mechanics tell me they checked continuity on a circuit and it was good. They use an ohm meter and see continuity under 100 ohms and stop. They are surprised to see the circuit fail when plugged in and under a load.

It is possible, and common, for there to be enough continuity for the TRS to complete the starter circuit momentarily, then when under a load it goes open, or fails. If the starter solenoid is clicking hard and no crank it may be a starter but that would negate the jockeying the shift lever.

Jockeying the shifter around may establish better contact resulting is a successful start. There is also a host of other circuits involved depending on options, like the TIPM, WCM, etc. There are also software updates and ground issues, it goes on and on. Hands on it can be an easy diagnostic, but can be confusing for the average guy.

There is no guarantee this is the case but it is one likely cause. Grounding pin #10(yel/blu) at the green TRS connector will bypass the neutral safety function and eliminate the TRS. I find guys are reluctant to test the TRS circuit since it is a little difficult to get too, and a pain to replace the TRS. Another good reason for our circuit, no need to take the transmission apart.

I try and keep advice short and simple. I can write two pages on technical mumbo jumbo then they guy posts he had a loose battery cable or bad battery. I assume all that is checked prior to a diagnostic but you know what happens when you assume.

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post #5 of 7 Old 08-02-2012, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoTech View Post
It's tough to say it is the TRS. If you hear the starter solenoid click it is usually an indication the circuit from the key to the starter is functional...but not always. The TRS uses very small contacts to complete the starter circuit, they run in trans fluid which is often the dirty or contaminated.

Electrical circuits fail when they are under a load, that is why we perform voltage drops on the circuit while the load is present. I can't tell you how many times I have had mechanics tell me they checked continuity on a circuit and it was good. They use an ohm meter and see continuity under 100 ohms and stop. They are surprised to see the circuit fail when plugged in and under a load.

It is possible, and common, for there to be enough continuity for the TRS to complete the starter circuit momentarily, then when under a load it goes open, or fails. If the starter solenoid is clicking hard and no crank it may be a starter but that would negate the jockeying the shift lever.

Jockeying the shifter around may establish better contact resulting is a successful start. There is also a host of other circuits involved depending on options, like the TIPM, WCM, etc. There are also software updates and ground issues, it goes on and on. Hands on it can be an easy diagnostic, but can be confusing for the average guy.

There is no guarantee this is the case but it is one likely cause. Grounding pin #10(yel/blu) at the green TRS connector will bypass the neutral safety function and eliminate the TRS. I find guys are reluctant to test the TRS circuit since it is a little difficult to get too, and a pain to replace the TRS. Another good reason for our circuit, no need to take the transmission apart.
So what you are saying is, the TRS may make contact long enough to make the relay in the TIPM click, then fail, allowing the relay to open before the starter can turn over. This assumes the click-no-start is fixed by moving the transmission lever. Otherwise, it could be any number of other things.

I kind of wish mine would get the click-no-start, so I could do a little hands on troubleshooting. (That would be annoying, but you know what I mean.)

2008 Unlimited Rubicon Automatic

Last edited by ronjenx; 08-02-2012 at 12:11 AM.
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post #6 of 7 Old 09-15-2016, 05:13 PM
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My wife has a stock 2011 JK sport. Started having this problem this week. Putting it in neutral or shaking gear shift affects anything. Twice I've messed with fuses (just made sure thy were all in) and relays and it started. Once, on a whim, hooked it up to a battery charger and it was fine. Earlier I disconnected the positive cable and it died, but I know that may not always be reliable. Yesterday evening it started right up. We were in and out of it all evening and started every time ( at least 6 times). This morning, nothing. Very confused.
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post #7 of 7 Old 09-15-2016, 09:40 PM
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Most likely you have one or two problems, since you hear a click.
First: Starter relay defective J17 (in the Eng. Fuse Block (also called TIPM)).
2nd: Starter Solenoid is defective.
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