York Compressor wiring into an sPod - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 30 Old 04-04-2012, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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York Compressor wiring into an sPod

Ok,
I'm a total wiring noob - so forgive me for stupid questions. I have an sPod on the way and will be connecting a York compressor clutch to it.

How do I wire it? The York clutch is a single wire (connection of the York to the engine acts as ground). Here is my thought on wiring it:

1. Run the clutch wire to one wire of the sealed pressure switch (without relay since the sPod contains the relays)
2. Connect the 2nd wire from the pressure switch to the positive sPod connection
3. Run a wire to the negative side of the sPod switch connection and ground to the frame/engine/where ever.


Does that make sense? I know it's a really easy connection - but I wanted to be sure I didn't miss anything. I'll be doing this in a few weeks and wanna make sure it's right.
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post #2 of 30 Old 04-06-2012, 05:20 PM
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Perfect!!!
Good Job!

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Originally Posted by 616fun View Post
Ok,
I'm a total wiring noob - so forgive me for stupid questions. I have an sPod on the way and will be connecting a York compressor clutch to it.

How do I wire it? The York clutch is a single wire (connection of the York to the engine acts as ground). Here is my thought on wiring it:

1. Run the clutch wire to one wire of the sealed pressure switch (without relay since the sPod contains the relays)
2. Connect the 2nd wire from the pressure switch to the positive sPod connection
3. Run a wire to the negative side of the sPod switch connection and ground to the frame/engine/where ever.


Does that make sense? I know it's a really easy connection - but I wanted to be sure I didn't miss anything. I'll be doing this in a few weeks and wanna make sure it's right.

-John the sPOD guy
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post #3 of 30 Old 04-06-2012, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Perfect!!!
Good Job!
Awesome. Thanks John. I ordered it from Jason at Krawl yesterday and look forward to the install.
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post #4 of 30 Old 04-06-2012, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Oh. I'm the guy that called and jawed with you about sPod, Tom Woods shafts, the nerd that is WayofLife, and general QA of manufacturing a few months ago.

I'll be proud to have your gear in my rig.
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post #5 of 30 Old 04-07-2012, 11:01 AM
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Anytime

That's why we're here....take care and let me know if there is anything else we can do for ya.

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post #6 of 30 Old 04-07-2012, 09:27 PM
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Since the York is grounded, I wouldn't think you would need to run a ground from the sPod switch to anything.

Jon

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post #7 of 30 Old 04-08-2012, 06:04 PM
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Just the positive will be fine.

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Originally Posted by JeepinJon View Post
Since the York is grounded, I wouldn't think you would need to run a ground from the sPod switch to anything.

-John the sPOD guy
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post #8 of 30 Old 04-11-2012, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
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My sPod should be here today or tomorrow. Guess what I'm doing this weekend?

The brackets and filter for the York should all be delivered by next weekend. So...
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post #9 of 30 Old 04-13-2012, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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John,

Question for you. I installed my sPod the night I got it. Stupid easy. I admit, I'm a guy and didn't read the directions. Literally took 45 min and 15 was looking for a wire coat glhznger to fish wire. I wired the source unit then ran the power to the battery. Jumped in and excitedly flipped a switch. Nothing...

So I jump out check my connections, etc so forth. Still don't read directions. Dead.

So I jump in the Jeep and fire the engine as it was getting late and I needed the garage lights. Hit Switch 1 and it's powered!!!

Now the sPod behaves as I would expect for any direct wired accessory. Power no matter the disposition of the key.

Question is what made the unit not activate until the Jeep was powered on the first time?
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post #10 of 30 Old 04-13-2012, 07:30 AM
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I'm obviously not John, but I'm willing to throw out a guess and see how it turns out.

I'm wondering if maybe the LVCO switch needed to "see" voltage through it. Since it had never been powered up, the LVCO had never "seen" power and was showing 0 volts and hence wouldn't let you use any accessories. After you powered it up, it saw the charge and now remembers it.

Feel free to flame away if I'm totally off base. I'm sure John will set us straight in due time.


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post #11 of 30 Old 04-13-2012, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jeeperjkj View Post
I'm obviously not John, but I'm willing to throw out a guess and see how it turns out.

I'm wondering if maybe the LVCO switch needed to "see" voltage through it. Since it had never been powered up, the LVCO had never "seen" power and was showing 0 volts and hence wouldn't let you use any accessories. After you powered it up, it saw the charge and now remembers it.

Feel free to flame away if I'm totally off base. I'm sure John will set us straight in due time.
You're exactly where my head was. The part that isn't making sense is that it is directly connected to the battery, so wouldn't the LVCO had seen charge, or does it also take into account the alternator pushing voltage back into the battery?
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post #12 of 30 Old 04-14-2012, 11:39 AM
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Good question. Maybe John will chime in...


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post #13 of 30 Old 04-14-2012, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 616fun View Post
You're exactly where my head was. The part that isn't making sense is that it is directly connected to the battery, so wouldn't the LVCO had seen charge, or does it also take into account the alternator pushing voltage back into the battery?
(Also not John, but...)
How old is your battery? The lvco will cut out so you should have enough to start the Jeep. The starting of your Jeep, and the charging of the alt may have been enough to switch the lvco to allow the sPod to work again.

You may have run the battery below the threshold with the door open and the lights on.
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post #14 of 30 Old 04-14-2012, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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(Also not John, but...)
How old is your battery? The lvco will cut out so you should have enough to start the Jeep. The starting of your Jeep, and the charging of the alt may have been enough to switch the lvco to allow the sPod to work again.

You may have run the battery below the threshold with the door open and the lights on.
Battery is the original. Jeep is a 2011.
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post #15 of 30 Old 04-14-2012, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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I should also say I've been looking for a reason to throw a few Yellow Tops under the hood....
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post #16 of 30 Old 04-14-2012, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 616fun View Post
My sPod should be here today or tomorrow. Guess what I'm doing this weekend?

The brackets and filter for the York should all be delivered by next weekend. So...
Please take lots of pics of the install. And as much info as possible. I've had a York sitting in my garage from my CJ and never thought of using it as on board air.

How does it stay oiled? AC is a closed oiled system.

Big B.

2011 4Dr Unlimited... Rubi springs & shocks, Rubi tires, JKS QD's, CoverKing Seat covers, Rugged Ridge trail doors, A.C.E. stubby bumper, A.C.E. Rock Rails, A.C.E. Hi-lift jack mounts, Superwinch LP8500.

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post #17 of 30 Old 04-14-2012, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Please take lots of pics of the install. And as much info as possible. I've had a York sitting in my garage from my CJ and never thought of using it as on board air.

How does it stay oiled? AC is a closed oiled system.
York 210 has an oil pan integrated. I'm placing a coalescing filter in the line before the manifold. I tapped the existing flange fittings to 3/8" NPT. I'm using hydraulic hose to feed the unit and the manifold. I'm mounting the manifold on an ARB/Viair compressor mount that attaches to the master cylinder. Here are a few random pics of what I have done so far:
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post #18 of 30 Old 04-14-2012, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Parts List:

York 210 A/C Compressor - can be had at several junkyards or eBay. The best unit to get is the 210L (2 pistons, 10 cb ft volume, long stroke pistons). They produce the most air.
York 6 groove clutch - may be found on the recovered York or via A/C suppliers. Most have a single wire (positive). Ground is achieved via the body of the unit being mounted to the engine block

Manifold Set Up:
Manifold - I went with an 8 port manifold - 6 1/4" NPT 2 3/8" NPT.
The actual manifold I am using:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details

Attached to the Manifold I have:
4 1/4" 90 degree elbows
1 Viair 90217 Sealed Pressure switch:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details
1 1/4" to 1/8" NPT conversion to adapt the pressure switch to the 1/4" port
1 1/4" bleed valve
1 1/4" 175 psi safety valve
1 1/4" compression fitting to connect the in cab pressure gauge
Manifold will be mounted to the Synergy ARB Compressor mount. I'll drill some holes to align with the manifold and mount it.
http://synergysuspension.com/Synergy...B-p-24327.html

Compressor Mount:
There are two options to mount a York to the JK engine. Kilby and ORO. I went with the ORO mounting brackets. Primary reason was the Kilby is mounted above the engine and requires an A/C line to be moved. Since I'm trying to keep costs down I don't want a $100 charge from a wrench monkey to replace the A/C line. Both kits contain all required brackets, pulleys, belts, etc needed to integrate the York clutch into your engine belt loop. Both are great mounts.
https://secure48.mysecureorder.net/o...ribqp88vuujjv3

Air tank:
I will be running an air tank with this set up - but it's the only part I haven't defined yet. I'll update when I do.

Coalescing Filter:
The York tends to burp oil, and will make a mess of your air lines. To keep this from happening you need a compressor coalescing filter that will separate the oil from the air. This needs to be installed BEFORE the manifold. Optimally you do want this as far from the compressor as possible. The York's do create a lot of heat and giving distance (in terms of hose) helps cool the air. Also note due to the heat, it is wise to get a filter with a metal bowl instead of polycarbinate. The plastics tend to get weak and will eventually fail. I am using 4' of hydraulic hose between the compressor and the filter.
The filters can be sourced from several locations. Again - ORO and Kilby sell them. I got lucky and picked up a lightly used Norgren on eBay for $45. Expect to pay between $100-$150 for a new unit.

Regulator:
The system will have up to 145 psi in it at any time. You'll want the ability to tune that down for air tools or tire filling. I picked up a Viair reg and will place it on the manifold. From there I'll run two hoses for quick connects at each foot well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details

Also you'll need lengths of hose to reach Q/C points and the air tank. Depending on configuration the amount will vary.
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post #19 of 30 Old 04-14-2012, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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First - wiring diagram. I'm using an sPod to run the compressor. Basically just run the positive from the sPod to the pressure switch. From the pressure switch, attach it to the York clutch. Wiring is done...


Manifold I'll be mounting to a Synergy ARB Master Cylinder bracket. One update to this pic. I added a bleed valve to depressurize the system.
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post #20 of 30 Old 04-14-2012, 06:41 PM
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Awesome, thanks? Please keep posting as you do more.

Big B.

2011 4Dr Unlimited... Rubi springs & shocks, Rubi tires, JKS QD's, CoverKing Seat covers, Rugged Ridge trail doors, A.C.E. stubby bumper, A.C.E. Rock Rails, A.C.E. Hi-lift jack mounts, Superwinch LP8500.

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post #21 of 30 Old 04-14-2012, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Awesome, thanks? Please keep posting as you do more.
Will do. Only thing I have left to figure out is my air storage. I saw where a guy turned his Rubi rails into tanks by welding the ends and sealing them up
Trying to decide id it's worth that or just put a tank on the JKs belly.
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post #22 of 30 Old 04-14-2012, 06:59 PM
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With that much cfm, you probably don't need much. I've seen a small tank between the radiator and the engine. Or a piece of 4"-5" dia steel pipe with domed ends welded to it along the drivers frame rail. You probably only need a one gallon tank.

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post #23 of 30 Old 04-14-2012, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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With that much cfm, you probably don't need much. I've seen a small tank between the radiator and the engine. Or a piece of 4"-5" dia steel pipe with domed ends welded to it along the drivers frame rail. You probably only need a one gallon tank.
Ya. I've looked into the 2 ga tank to mount behind the radiator. I'm concerned that with the York hanging off the front of the engine will actually interfere with that tank mounting location. I want the storage to power air tools on the trail.
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post #24 of 30 Old 04-14-2012, 07:13 PM
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Two or four door? If four I'll crawl around tomorrow and see if I can come up with ideas.

Big B.

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post #25 of 30 Old 04-14-2012, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Two or four door? If four I'll crawl around tomorrow and see if I can come up with ideas.
4 dr. Places I've considered is muffler (relocate the muffler to beside the evap). Evap - relocate evap above the rear axle. Behind the radiator. Again, convert Rubi rails to tanks.

Considered two small tanks under the rear seat also.
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