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post #1 of 37 Old 03-31-2012, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Backup alarms

Does anyone have any first hand knowledge of these...

http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=926

How difficult could it really be to wire it? I'm thinking it'd probably just hang out in the cavity behind the tail light and tap into the reverse light wiring, right?


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post #2 of 37 Old 03-31-2012, 07:27 PM
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Why ya looking at putting in a back up alarm?

Doug 08 4dr X 6 spd Det Yellow
You are a load that should have been swallowed, but someone as bitter as you are probably would have been spat out. Ahh Dancin Dan
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post #3 of 37 Old 03-31-2012, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Because I'm tired of people walking behind me when I'm backing up and I can't see shit out the back with that freakin' 41 up there. Figure I'll at least give them a fair heads up...


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post #4 of 37 Old 03-31-2012, 07:47 PM
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Because I'm tired of people walking behind me when I'm backing up and I can't see shit out the back with that freakin' 41 up there. Figure I'll at least give them a fair heads up...
I think you should hit a dixie horn or something, maybe put a duck call on your baby air-horns and activate it in reverse

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post #5 of 37 Old 03-31-2012, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeperjkj View Post
Does anyone have any first hand knowledge of these...

http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=926

How difficult could it really be to wire it? I'm thinking it'd probably just hang out in the cavity behind the tail light and tap into the reverse light wiring, right?
I'm guessing, but if this is just a standard alarm, then it's one solid tone. You need the electronics to make it beep. Could be wrong but you might want to check with the vendor first.

There's a ton of actual back up alarms on Amazon-dot-com. Just search on "back up alarm".
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post #6 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 02:26 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, so I'm gonna do this. Just ordered a cheap back up alarm off Amazon and I want to put a toggle switch on the dash (or thereabouts) to use as a kill switch.

Can someone walk me through this? I think I kind of know what I want to do, but I need reassurance (yeah, I'm high maintenance). I was planning on pulling the power for the alarm from my back up light and running the ground to the switch and then out of the switch to the ground. So, I'd just be interrupting the ground to turn off the alarm. I definitely want this kill switch in there because I'd freakin' kill someone if I have to listen to the backup alarm go off every time I put the bitch in reverse while wheeling.

Also, which wire in the back up light do I tap for the power? I'll need to tap the same wire for the power to my backup camera that I'm going to run to the Superchips TrailDash.


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post #7 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 06:34 AM
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I think you should let Darwin handle those folks dumb enough to walk behind a moving vehicle.

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post #8 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 06:43 AM
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Switching the ground for the alarm/beeper is a good idea, and how I would do it. As far as which wire? I think it's time to learn how to use a multi-meter before you get too much further into your electrical adventures.

Turn the key on, put it in reverse [parking brake applied] and just see which wire back there has voltage applied to it when in reverse; that will be your wire.

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post #9 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 09:10 AM
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why not just find your trailer wire connection for your reverse signal?
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post #10 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by FireTrail741 View Post
why not just find your trailer wire connection for your reverse signal?
The most common one on a JK, 4-pin, does not have a reverse output.

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post #11 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by jeeperjkj View Post
Because I'm tired of people walking behind me when I'm backing up and I can't see shit out the back with that freakin' 41 up there. Figure I'll at least give them a fair heads up...
I should strongly consider one of these


It was like 4-5 am, dark, raining, started backing up and I stalled... at the street = maybe the tranny's slipping?

Start her backup, realllllly give her some gas then I hear the snap, crackle, pop of a Mitsubishi four door sedan. My alcoholic neighbor across the street (theoretically came home drunk) parked at the bottom of my driveway.

I go across the street, pound on the door “hey can you move your car? Your blocking my driveway, I have to go to work…” Dum-Dum moves his car into his driveway and I go to work. He was so drunk he didn’t notice I caved in his windows, doors, etc. (remember it was raining). I called my wife “if they ask, you don’t know anyyyything."

After work, go home, knock on their door, wife answers, he’s not there “I’m sorry about his car, let me know how you want to handle this….” The woman was shaking in fear or relief I don’t know; probably both, figuring her hubby had pulled a hit and run?

Oddly enough my 60 year old alcoholic neighbor recently got a DWI, and now parks in HIS DRIVEWAY.

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post #12 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
Switching the ground for the alarm/beeper is a good idea, and how I would do it. As far as which wire? I think it's time to learn how to use a multi-meter before you get too much further into your electrical adventures.

Turn the key on, put it in reverse [parking brake applied] and just see which wire back there has voltage applied to it when in reverse; that will be your wire.
Depending on the load it draws, small I am sure, you MAY need a relay. I'd try it without first but the TIPM is sensitive to adding extra load on the lights. I wouldn't think this small load would be much of an issue but just a heads up in case you wonder why your lights no longer work at all

You could also use a multi meter on the housing where the reverse bulb plugs in and see where it goes to figure out which wire.

Should be white/grey or white/lt green.
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post #13 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 01:07 PM
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Not putting it on my Jeep, but I am about to install this on my wife's car:

http://www.amazon.com/XD-066-Display...ords=autosonar

I think it is a better option than the alarm.

Just my 2 cents...

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post #14 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 01:29 PM
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I think you should let Darwin handle those folks dumb enough to walk behind a moving vehicle.
But Obama won't allow Darwin to do that anymore.
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post #15 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 02:34 PM
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Not putting it on my Jeep, but I am about to install this on my wife's car:

http://www.amazon.com/XD-066-Display...ords=autosonar

I think it is a better option than the alarm.

Just my 2 cents...
Until they are covered in mud or ice. I think they are a great thing on toad driven vehicles. But they'd be prone to early failure on something wheeled.
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post #16 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 03:08 PM
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Until they are covered in mud or ice. I think they are a great thing on toad driven vehicles. But they'd be prone to early failure on something wheeled.
At a whopping $20 for the whole kit, I think I can live with replacing a few sensors now and then...

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post #17 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by yerfttam View Post
Not putting it on my Jeep, but I am about to install this on my wife's car:

http://www.amazon.com/XD-066-Display...ords=autosonar

I think it is a better option than the alarm.

Just my 2 cents...
Eh, the camera and alarm should do the trick. Would a simple test light work to show me which one is getting power?


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post #18 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 09:12 PM
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Why ya looking at putting in a back up alarm?
He's just jealous of dumptruckrich.

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post #19 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jeeperjkj View Post
Does anyone have any first hand knowledge of these...

http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=926

How difficult could it really be to wire it? I'm thinking it'd probably just hang out in the cavity behind the tail light and tap into the reverse light wiring, right?
That will work. This might be easier if it fits into the light housing:

http://www.etrailer.com/Lights/Hopkins/HM20101VA.html

Just replace one of the bulbs and done. No wiring needed.

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post #20 of 37 Old 11-30-2012, 09:21 PM
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Until they are covered in mud or ice. I think they are a great thing on toad driven vehicles. But they'd be prone to early failure on something wheeled.
Bonecollector is going to rake your shins if she hears about you driving on toads.

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post #21 of 37 Old 12-01-2012, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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That will work. This might be easier if it fits into the light housing:

http://www.etrailer.com/Lights/Hopkins/HM20101VA.html

Just replace one of the bulbs and done. No wiring needed.
Yeah, but I'm guessing a kill switch would be a little harder to wire into that. Maybe not, but I've already ordered the alarm so I'm going this way. I did see those and opted not to go that way.


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post #22 of 37 Old 12-01-2012, 10:24 AM
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At a whopping $20 for the whole kit, I think I can live with replacing a few sensors now and then...
Totally agree, I was hinting at the troubles of putting them on a Jeep that get's wheeled.

The only problem I have with them (in my wife's car and some of my work trucks) is I get used to them, then I get in a work truck that doesn't have them and forget


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Bonecollector is going to rake your shins if she hears about you driving on toads.
HA!

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Originally Posted by jeeperjkj View Post
Eh, the camera and alarm should do the trick. Would a simple test light work to show me which one is getting power?
Yes, as long as it's in reverse with the key on. The wire colors I listed should be right, the left hand light just lists white/grey and white/lt green as the two possibilities. You won't have both wires unless they are connected to each other. But I'd still put a test light to it and make sure I had the right wires before cutting.
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post #23 of 37 Old 12-01-2012, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, so I've got a question. If I want to run my kill switch to my sPod, would I just run the negative from the alarm to the negative in the sPod controller?


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post #24 of 37 Old 12-01-2012, 11:13 AM
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Negative of what on the spod controller? I'm assuming the SPOD controls the low side of the relays under hood. Then yes, you could run it to the switched side of a low. Depends on the wiring but I'm assuming this alarm is low enough current. Certainly the Carling switches the SPOD runs can handle the alarm, its up to the wiring of the SPOD, that would be your weak point. But again I am assuming this alarm only pulls a couple amps AT MOST, I'd expect it to be in the mA range.

I'd probably hide a toggle under the dash or somewhere and save my SPOD for other things.

I'll see if I can find a SPOD schematic.
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post #25 of 37 Old 12-01-2012, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, the alarm is a very low draw. The spod is just setup for a +/- off of the part.


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