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post #1 of 9 Old 04-03-2011, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quick general wiring questions.

I have some rock lights I am installing, 6 in all, they are roundeyes LEDs.

Questions:

1) Can I run all of these to one switch?

2) How do I tie them together. For example, eac light has a ground and hot wire, can I get a thicker (larger gauge) and tap all of these hot wires into that one (from the battery)?

3) Each light has an inline fuse, do I need a relay?

any input is great.

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post #2 of 9 Old 04-03-2011, 01:03 PM
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Relay is a good Idea

A relay is a good idea but not required. I have done both depending on the application.

I would think a 30 amp fused circuit would work.

Yes you can tie them all together or split them up if you don't want them all on at the same time.


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post #3 of 9 Old 04-03-2011, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbh View Post
I have some rock lights I am installing, 6 in all, they are roundeyes LEDs.

Questions:

1) Can I run all of these to one switch?
yes, if the switch is rated for the amps

2) How do I tie them together. For example, eac light has a ground and hot wire, can I get a thicker (larger gauge) and tap all of these hot wires into that one (from the battery)?
yes, just multiply the amp draw of the total being attached and it will tell you what gauge wire you need.

3) Each light has an inline fuse, do I need a relay?
if wiring them all off the same lead you could actually ditch the inline fuse for each and just common fuse them all. (once again multiply the amp draw)
I run relays when I do not feel like running thick wire into the cab or want to use a smaller (usually lower amp rated) switch


any input is great.
for LED rock lights I HIGHLY doubt you will go past a 15A draw and I would run them all off one lead and no relay.
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post #4 of 9 Old 04-03-2011, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Below is what I am running, says it draws 350 miliamps (each one). I was just going to run the Daystar switch (20 amp) to run these. So if I tie them altogether, run a fuse on the lead, wire the lead to the switch and then the switch to the battery, I should be good? Of course I will have the ground as well.


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Last edited by lbh; 04-03-2011 at 06:35 PM.
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post #5 of 9 Old 04-04-2011, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-04-2011, 03:14 PM
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Pretty much already answered, but just to recap:

6 x 350 mA = 2.1 amps

Your switch can easily handle that with no relay. Just wire all the power leads in parallel, pull to the switch, then pull from the switch to your +12v source. Put the fuse (3A would be good and should be easy to find close to the +12v source - ideally within 18" for maximum protection in case of a short.

You can ground each light individually to the frame. No need to tie them all to a single wire.

16 ga. wire is plenty.

Any other questions?

Heck, I see you're in CA. If you aren't comfortable with electrical work and you're local I could probalby pop by and give you a hand. It'll take longer to mount the lights than to do the wiring. I'm in NorCal - PM me if you want a hand.

Last edited by zelatore; 04-04-2011 at 03:17 PM.
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-04-2011, 03:15 PM
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What lights are these?


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post #8 of 9 Old 04-07-2011, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the inpuit guys! I have the lights mounted and the majority of the wire ran. I test them last night, just tapping the battery and everything looks good. I have all of the wires tied in at one point, then to the switch, the switch to the 12v source and a fuse mounted on the wire going to the battery 12V source. Sound good?

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post #9 of 9 Old 04-07-2011, 01:31 PM
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I relay it and use a manual resetting breaker.
The only reason is that I've seen so many cheap-o switches fail lately.
Pfffffft. Out go the lights. And the switch seems to be the last thing you check when you're trouble-shooting.
And the breaker because of the harsh underside environment. They're cheap.

Safety fast,

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