oh yaaaa...time to replace the HID's - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 04-01-2011, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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oh yaaaa...time to replace the HID's

With something a little harder to kill


50 inches of love



I figure I may get a few MPG out of it as well seeing as i will not have that ginormous air dam of a light rack up there
(just in case you have not figured it out, the Rigid E-series is replacing my 5 35w HID bar in the same location)

You will see a full review and main page writeup that will not only include comparing my old HID's to Rigid's LED's but also on correctly wiring it and other common electrical items.
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post #2 of 26 Old 04-01-2011, 05:58 PM
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Can't wait to see the outcome of this. I am thinking about getting one of the 50 inch bars to go along with my D2's and 20 inch bar

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post #3 of 26 Old 04-01-2011, 06:20 PM
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Welcome home Doc.

I personally think you should keep them both. If the sun starts to go dim you could recharge it.

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post #4 of 26 Old 04-01-2011, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Welcome home Doc.

I personally think you should keep them both. If the sun starts to go dim you could recharge it.
Thanks, I get to be "home" for a month or so and then I leave for SoCal for a year.

I have been getting shit for that light bar since I installed it Funny how no one bitches when something needs to be lit up

I am going to see if the Rigid bar makes my HIDs look like a joke. Its already a hell of a lot easier to install and wire I will have to get a new much smaller actuator eventually to make it aim-able like my HIDs are.
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post #5 of 26 Old 04-01-2011, 07:02 PM
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I am going to see if the Rigid bar makes my HIDs look like a joke. .
My bet would be like night and day.

Dang I wish I had one of those.

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post #6 of 26 Old 04-01-2011, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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My bet would be like night and day.

Dang I wish I had one of those.
I will be doing a throw and distance measurement using both actual light thrown and usable light (like being able to read/ID something at a distance)

I know it will already kick its ass in power draw and durability.

Start small, you don't have to dive in the deep end of the pool like I did they sell smaller bars and pods like the Dually's. I may pick up a set of them to replace my driving lights.
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post #7 of 26 Old 04-01-2011, 07:58 PM
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Doc that is going to be incredible.

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post #8 of 26 Old 04-01-2011, 10:09 PM
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whatcha doing with the old ones?


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post #9 of 26 Old 04-02-2011, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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whatcha doing with the old ones?
try to sell the whole rack as one unit first and if no go then the rack and lights separate.
I am sure there is a jeeper or a small airstrip that could use it
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post #10 of 26 Old 04-02-2011, 09:53 AM
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Nice Doc... I know you'll enjoy it.

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post #11 of 26 Old 04-02-2011, 10:06 AM
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Nice to have you back. That light bar looks good. I was a little slow to warm up to them. The whole square and rectangular thing just looked odd. But now that they have been out a while not so much. The power draw difference I would imagine is drastically lower.

Looking forward to the write-up
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Welcome home Doc.

I personally think you should keep them both. If the sun starts to go dim you could recharge it.
Nice, I really did laugh out loud.

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post #12 of 26 Old 04-02-2011, 01:06 PM
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post #13 of 26 Old 04-05-2011, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by usmcdoc14 View Post
try to sell the whole rack as one unit first and if no go then the rack and lights separate.
I am sure there is a jeeper or a small airstrip that could use it
Let me know if you do decide to sell your old light bar set up, i am in the process of collecting materials to make my own, and if you no longer need/want yours i'd be happy to take it off your hands.

-jackson

side note: i'm kinda jealous, not gonna lie
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post #14 of 26 Old 04-06-2011, 12:29 AM
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Are you hunting vampires with that thing? Haha.
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post #15 of 26 Old 04-06-2011, 05:40 AM
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I will be doing a throw and distance measurement using both actual light thrown and usable light (like being able to read/ID something at a distance)
For practical purposes related to human vision, target acquisition, & object identification, place a ROYGBIV card at about 25 feet and compare the two arrays for SPD/CRI/CCT. These are the sorts of things that usually get ignored but make a lot of difference to the operator, especially when things are happening fast and with consequences.
I'd expect the LEDs to perform better across the board in this sort of test.

Safety fast,

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post #16 of 26 Old 04-06-2011, 05:45 AM
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I say, leave it like this and hook it up.

I'm sure I'll be able to tell when you have the lights on down here in Orlando.



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post #17 of 26 Old 04-06-2011, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Are you hunting vampires with that thing? Haha.
nope, just 2 legged omnivorous

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For practical purposes related to human vision, target acquisition, & object identification, place a ROYGBIV card at about 25 feet and compare the two arrays for SPD/CRI/CCT. These are the sorts of things that usually get ignored but make a lot of difference to the operator, especially when things are happening fast and with consequences.
I'd expect the LEDs to perform better across the board in this sort of test.
I plan on measuring out and placing a readable 6" letter at like 25, 50, 100, 200, 300 and so on till I can no longer read it.
As for the color chart it is kinda subjective. I will set the camera to daylight balance but the human eye has a tendency to see color off a little when the rods in your eyes are used.
It also depends on the temp color you choose for LED or HID
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post #18 of 26 Old 04-06-2011, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by usmcdoc14 View Post
try to sell the whole rack as one unit first and if no go then the rack and lights separate.
I am sure there is a jeeper or a small airstrip that could use it
Hmmm... I might need some more lights on my jeep.

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post #19 of 26 Old 04-07-2011, 07:10 AM
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I plan on measuring out and placing a readable 6" letter at like 25, 50, 100, 200, 300 and so on till I can no longer read it.
As for the color chart it is kinda subjective. I will set the camera to daylight balance but the human eye has a tendency to see color off a little when the rods in your eyes are used.
It also depends on the temp color you choose for LED or HID
Yeah, that's what I mean.
When I did my testing, I had to choose a constant for white balance and try to level the playing field.
I finally chose settings that would eliminate the first LUX or two of background light --- moon/star light, ambient from city splooge-lighting, etc.
The result of that is that you can see the artifacts from the lamps more clearly and the beamshots aren't as impressive.
But I used a light meter at 25 yard intervals at the same height on either side of the road. It's easy to fool the human eye but you can't fool a meter...

I really like my LED headlights, driving lights, and floods, btw. The light just agrees with me much more than the HIDs. In fact, my HIDs are sitting on my work bench and I'm not sure what to do with them.

Safety fast,

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post #20 of 26 Old 04-07-2011, 07:23 AM
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Sub'd. Love to see the results once you get this thing connected and tested. Debating on whether or not to add a light bar up top and if this LED bar works out right, it just might help make that decision a little easier.

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post #21 of 26 Old 04-13-2011, 09:10 PM
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Day time , any time ! Thats killer. Haha
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post #22 of 26 Old 04-13-2011, 09:22 PM
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Doc, it's been two weeks! Throw us a bone here!

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post #23 of 26 Old 04-14-2011, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Doc, it's been two weeks! Throw us a bone here!
hey...I had to find a good place to test them I have to pull the images
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post #24 of 26 Old 04-15-2011, 10:28 AM
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Soon?

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post #25 of 26 Old 04-16-2011, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Soon?
I am on leave from a deployment....would you like to ask my wife for me to spend more time online?
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