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post #1 of 14 Old 11-16-2010, 06:02 AM Thread Starter
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Multiple ground accessory wiring question.

I can't seem to fine what I am looking for so maybe someone here has an idea where to find it. I am going to install a 80 amp 12v circuit breaker to high amp relay (switched by cigarette lighter socket) to a sub panel distribution block fuse holder. This will allow me to turn on all of my future accessories at once. What I am wondering is where can I find a terminal strip for wiring up all the accessory grounds. The ideal would be 6-12 screw terminal connectors and one 8 gauge ground wire going out to attach to the negative battery connection. Anyone know where to get such a thing?

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post #2 of 14 Old 11-16-2010, 06:20 AM
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I'd honestly just make one out of a strip of 1/4" aluminum or something from lowes. ~5/16" bolt through it for your big ground. Either self tapping, tap threads, or nut/bolt your grounds.

Get exactly what you need, size, no real worry on corrosion, doesn't need to be isolated or anything since it's a ground block.

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post #3 of 14 Old 11-16-2010, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mallow View Post
I can't seem to fine what I am looking for so maybe someone here has an idea where to find it. I am going to install a 80 amp 12v circuit breaker to high amp relay (switched by cigarette lighter socket) to a sub panel distribution block fuse holder. This will allow me to turn on all of my future accessories at once. What I am wondering is where can I find a terminal strip for wiring up all the accessory grounds. The ideal would be 6-12 screw terminal connectors and one 8 gauge ground wire going out to attach to the negative battery connection. Anyone know where to get such a thing?

Thanks
Mallow
Sorry I can't find a pic of what I did. Go to the electrical dept. of Lowes / Home Depot. Near the breaker boxs you should find some accessarys. Look for the "Ground Bar Kits". They will look like a long piece of aluminum with set screws every 1/4" or so. They come in a varity of lengths. Hear is an example.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1

I just bolted it up to the body next to the battery. To accept larger gauge wire, just fray out the end and twist up into smaller strands

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post #4 of 14 Old 11-16-2010, 03:30 PM
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Don't bolt aluminum to steel or you will get some bad inter metal corrosion problems. Better to use copper or stainless steel.

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post #5 of 14 Old 11-16-2010, 05:48 PM
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Don't bolt aluminum to steel or you will get some bad inter metal corrosion problems. Better to use copper or stainless steel.
Well in my case I have a #4 ground conductor connected between the buss and the negative side of the battery. So even though there may be some conductivity between the aluminum buss and the steal tub. There is no intended current path between the two. Therefore if there is any corrosion due to metal transference. It should be minimal at best. And should not cause any electrical interference.

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post #6 of 14 Old 11-16-2010, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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I eventually remembered what the name of I was looking for. Blue Sea Busbar.



Thanks for jogging my memory guys.
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post #7 of 14 Old 11-16-2010, 08:43 PM
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Hey Mallow that looks real good. Where do you get those from?

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post #8 of 14 Old 11-17-2010, 05:19 AM Thread Starter
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Hey Mallow that looks real good. Where do you get those from?
Generally you can get Blue Sea stuff at any Marine equipment store. I order all mine online due to not having any of those types of stores in WV
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post #9 of 14 Old 11-17-2010, 08:03 AM
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I eventually remembered what the name of I was looking for. Blue Sea Busbar.



Thanks for jogging my memory guys.
Isolated blocks like this are usualy used for the ungrounded circuit. I can't think of any reason to isolate the grounded circuit.

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post #10 of 14 Old 11-17-2010, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JK-Ford View Post
Isolated blocks like this are usualy used for the ungrounded circuit. I can't think of any reason to isolate the grounded circuit.
This isn't the normal termal strip where each set of screws are isolated from the other. All of the screws are connected. I will run a larger gauge ground wire to one of the main lugs then wire each of the accessories onto the little screws via crimp on terminals.
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post #11 of 14 Old 11-17-2010, 09:32 AM
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This isn't the normal termal strip where each set of screws are isolated from the other. All of the screws are connected. I will run a larger gauge ground wire to one of the main lugs then wire each of the accessories onto the little screws via crimp on terminals.
I was refering to the terminal strip being isolated from the mounting surface. That is why it appears to be designed for an ungrounded circuit ( hot ). I personaly do not see a need for this type of isolation for grounded circuits. And I prefer the type of screw terminals on the ground buss that I used. I do agree with "genesbro" about not using the ground bar to conduct a current between the body and the bar. However, I do not aggree with "genesbro" about any type of corrosion between the disimular metals being in contact with each other. This product is designed to be bolted to the inside of electrical enclosures ( metal ). And is currently in use probably all over the world. Bottom line_ ITS YOUR JEEP

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post #12 of 14 Old 11-17-2010, 11:21 AM
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Thanks for the info Mallow.
When I say don't attach aluminum to steel if you don't want bad corrosion I am not just saying that it might happen. I am saying that because I have seen first hand just what occurs when that is done and it is not a pretty sight. If you are in the desert with dry air you might be ok but if you have mositure around, especially if you are in an area where they salt the roads then it would be bad.
Just use stainless steel like the device that Mallow has shown and you won't have any worries.
They have outlawed aluminum wiring in homes because of the corrision that occurs resulting in high resistance and then fires.

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post #13 of 14 Old 11-17-2010, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
When I say don't attach aluminum to steel if you don't want bad corrosion I am not just saying that it might happen. I am saying that because I have seen first hand just what occurs when that is done and it is not a pretty sight.
Obviously you only know a little about what you are talking about. Maybe you should contact the technical service department @ Squard D and explain to them how they know not what they are doing.
http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

Quote:
They have outlawed aluminum wiring in homes because of the corrision that occurs resulting in high resistance and then fires.
This one you obviously know nothing about. I'm a master electrician. So explain this a little more please.

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Last edited by JK-Ford; 11-17-2010 at 01:29 PM.
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post #14 of 14 Old 11-17-2010, 03:32 PM
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Galvanic Corrosion Pics

Be fore warned. The following photographs may not be appropriate for pregnant women, small children and electrical idiots. These are photographs of the deadly "Galvanic Corrosion" actually taking place on my Jeep. Don't say I didn't warn ya.



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