Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda
Clock spring shouldn't have anything to do with those symptoms.
Why diode for what can bus signal, to the fuse slot for the heated seats? There should be no CAN on just a power circuit. It would be like an output, such as between the TIPM and the headlights (which is pulse width modulation, not CAN), or between modules (CAN).
Off the top of my head, and I'm no Jeep technician, I'd say the TIPM is crap. It has something to do with all of those circuits I believe. Mine was replaced because the driver's door switch wouldn't operate the dome light! It's tied into the electrical system very heavily, and the likeliness of you having a bad headlight switch/circuit, wiper switch/circuit, brake switch/circuit, etc, etc is pretty slim, but they all share a common source which is the TIPM.
Again, I'm no Jeep tech...
I'd expect it is the TIPM. I have a "similar" issue but it's off and on and only the rear lights. I have a spare TIPM for when it starts acting up again, it's been driving me nuts.
To answer Goodys comment, no it's not the CAN bus that is damaged and the diode does NOT protect the CAN bus, what happens is relays/solenoid are as you know just mechanical switches, but these switches are controlled by a coil, coils build up energy and when you shut them off that stored energy needs to go somewhere, so it ends up back feeding the electrical system it is connected to, in the larger solenoids (those used for battery isolation, snow plows, utility beds.....) I've seen reverse voltage spikes as high as -300 volts DC. It's only a matter of milliseconds (chances are you won't catch it on a digital multi meter, you really need a scope) but it's enough to cause damage to the sensitive electronic components found in today's vehicles. Standard practice is to install a recirculation diode on the control terminals of the solenoid, this way the power is slowly dissipated back through the solenoid and not through the electrical system. It doesn't eliminate the spikes but it does significant reduce them to much safer levels. These diodes are just your typical $0.05 diode available all over.
When you buy a relay/solenoid made specifically for modern automotive they have this built in. But many people buy the cheaper alternatives such as old Ford starter solenoids, or lawnmower starter solenoids because they are cheaper and easier to find. They aren't bad but they need the recirculation diode put on them.
Even if you are going strait to the batter or to a separate fused/relay circuit that you think has no connection to anything ALWAYS use a recirculation diode.
The headlight controls go from the stalk to the instrument panel then to the TIPM via a CAN message. You can check the wires from the stalk to the IPC pretty easily, but unless you know what you are looking for it's hard to monitor the CAN bus. Do your brake lights work? The peddle is hardwired to the center brake light and to the TIPM.
Here is a good explanation of how to put the diode on: