Yes, it is try, in order to get the most improvement in your audio system quality, you should be looking at the pre-amp first. In this case, the head unit.
After that, giving it more power with amps (not even bi-amping) will give you noticeable improvement too.
I've had fancy audio systems in other vehicles but I took a different approach on the jeep.
Not sure what you are starting with but I started with the Alpine system on my 2013 Rubicon.
The way I got the most out of the factory sound system was to do the PRS mode but you may want to hunt down the "PRS+" version of that if you don't have the factory subwoofer in your system.
The PRS mod is a couple of things...
1) Damp the speaker enclosures using something like HushMat. This one package was enough to use on the two front enclosures, the sound bar and the factory sub enclosure.
2) Stuff the speaker enclosures with PolyFil. Don't pack them too tightly, just stuff a little into each enclosure. One package of this should be enough to stuff all of the enclosures (fronts, sound bar plus sub) on 2 vehicles.
3) Change the crossover point of your dash tweeters. You do this by replacing the tiny capacitors that are soldered to them. There are two possibilities, depending on what head unit you have. You will need to remove one of the tweeters and read the markings on the capacitor to see which one you currently have. I used a PolyPropelen capacitor on mine which are known to audiophiles as an excellent choice for using in crossover networks. Problem is that they can be huge and I had to wire mine in with extended leads and remotely mount the capacitors. They are about the size of an M80 (explosive).
4) This is the "+" in the "PRS+" modification.... Since your system may not have the factory sub, you can wire one in. The pictures are missing from this thread and it is also on JK Forum but this guy wired in a small Rockford Fosgate amp under the dash. He made some stand off brackets and attached it to the factory amp.
You may want to consider the Mopar/Kicker 77KICK10 speakers. I just sold a set because they were not ideal for the Alpine system in my vehicle but are intended as an upgrade for the standard head unit (non-Alpine). One system is like 4 ohms and the other 6 ohms. These speakers are also plug and play with OEM connectors.
I think the other part to the Kicker package is to use the improved amp, 77KICK46 but with that, I think you still need to wire in a subwoofer amp and speaker as it bypasses the bass signal.
Anyway, I am pleased with the PRS mods on the stock Alpine head unit. I listen to the radio at volume with the top off and it works for me on road and on the trail. Bass and midrange are tightened up and more clear.
On my Alpine system, I also did a subwoofer swap of just the driver itself. I used this Pioneer shallow mount dual coil sub as a direct replacement for the stock driver. It fits perfectly in the factory enclosure and with the free wiring adapters that are often included, the coils connected right to the stock wiring for the OEM twin coil sub.
And the best head unit that I have ever heard in a car was the McIntosh MX406. I had one. It was available with on board Burr Brown DACs or you could get an outboard DAC. The optional meters made it look so cool.... I bought this one because of the pre-amp. No frills or unnecessary features. A real rotary volume know with self cleaning detents. A stout, outboard power supply. yeah, it probably is still among the best head units ever produced. It was made by Clarion and based on the Clarion DRZ-9255.
Back in the tape days, I had the venerable Soundstream TC-308 (non-amplified) as a head unit. Only thing better back then was the Nakamichi Dragon head unit if you wanted to pony up for that one.