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post #1 of 10 Old 11-01-2017, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Another JK no start thread

Been fighting this for several years(not kidding, people are making fun of me at work)....the common no start issue many of us have. Symptom is no hint when it will happen, cold or hot, turn key hear nothing except what sounds like a relay somewhere, (might be something else). Sentry key fob will activate security system. Horn or wipers don't get possessed like I have read some others have experienced. Maybe my issue is unique. I have not been to the dealer for any of this, don't have much faith given history of much more simple fails.

Subject JK, 2008 JKU Rubi, 70K miles, 6spd, lots of electrical accessories including LED fogs, tail-lights, 40" OUTLAW LED BAR, Warn Winch, 1000W Power Inverter.

Here is what I have done:

Replaced Battery for Interstate AGM; healthy, holds charge well, and alt putting out to spec.
Replaced Battery Terminals (just the terminals) for the quadratec multi connects to accommodate all the accessories
Replaced Starter Motor Twice.
Shifted manual shift and transfer case in and out and slammed door so as to jar any loose connections...
Unplugged fuse box from harness, cleaned plugs and terminals.
Added 50" 8AWG ground wire from negative post to Alt bolt.
Swapped out 8AWG for 4AWG above
Done some hammering on starter at time but mostly a slap on the fusebox, which usually works 9/10 times. Been doing this for the last year and a half. Its easy simple and doesn't get me dirty.
Pulled and Reset the I/O fuse or whatever its called

Next planned mod is to rig a switch to the I/O fuse to reset from drivers seat.....

P.S. I am so very sick of this. Any other options that most of us haven't tried. Is it time to try that fusebox relay re-build on ebay

2008 Flame Red Rubicon 35's on Rock Monsters, 3.5 AEV lift, AEV bumpers, Gobi Rack, Superchips Vivid, Synergized and Metalcloaked

Last edited by gooseygoose; 11-03-2017 at 09:31 AM.
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post #2 of 10 Old 11-02-2017, 08:54 AM
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my 2008 suffered from something similar and allegedly it was due to the neutral safety switch or something like that.

Simple annoying solution is to put the transmission in neutral and start your vehicle.

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OKAY FUCKMOUTH.
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post #3 of 10 Old 11-03-2017, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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yeah I tried that too didn't work....on a separate note does the 6spd manual actually have a neutral safety switch? I would ground that out if I had choice. Can be nice to use starter to edge up over an obstacle in a pinch.

I heard what you mention with the auto's. I am willing to bet the shifter movement creates just enough vibration to get the poor connection culprit somewhere just that much better.

2008 Flame Red Rubicon 35's on Rock Monsters, 3.5 AEV lift, AEV bumpers, Gobi Rack, Superchips Vivid, Synergized and Metalcloaked
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post #4 of 10 Old 11-03-2017, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gooseygoose View Post
yeah I tried that too didn't work....on a separate note does the 6spd manual actually have a neutral safety switch? I would ground that out if I had choice. Can be nice to use starter to edge up over an obstacle in a pinch.

I heard what you mention with the auto's. I am willing to bet the shifter movement creates just enough vibration to get the poor connection culprit somewhere just that much better.
Actually the 6 spd has a clutch interlock switch, which acts as a neutral safety switch to ensure jeep is not started in gear and lurches forward.
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post #5 of 10 Old 11-04-2017, 04:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tspevacek View Post
Actually the 6 spd has a clutch interlock switch, which acts as a neutral safety switch to ensure jeep is not started in gear and lurches forward.
The clutch interlock can be bypassed by shifting into 4-low... that might be worth a try.

_
'76 CJ-7, '43 CJ-2a, '78 Bronco,'78 CJ-7, '75 CJ-5, '78 CJ-7, '80 CJ-7, '78 SJ, '79 SJ, '78 and a '76 FJ-40 , '90 XJ, '91 XJ, '86 CJ-7, '95 ZJ, '68 CJ-101 Commando, '00 TJ, '68 M-715, 2 '86 Military Blazers, '96 LR Discovery, '86 CJ-7, '91 YJ, '99 TJ, 07' JKU Rubi, 1988 YJ, 1973 Commando, 3 Diesel Excursions....
Now back to a 2013 JKU Rubicon with "stuff", planning 37's with minimal lift.

I've tried them all... Jeeps are still the best. (0||||0)
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post #6 of 10 Old 11-06-2017, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guruman View Post
The clutch interlock can be bypassed by shifting into 4-low... that might be worth a try.

good point, may just start parking it in low all the time and see if the sporadic no start disappears.

2008 Flame Red Rubicon 35's on Rock Monsters, 3.5 AEV lift, AEV bumpers, Gobi Rack, Superchips Vivid, Synergized and Metalcloaked

Last edited by gooseygoose; 11-06-2017 at 05:32 AM.
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post #7 of 10 Old 11-07-2017, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gooseygoose View Post
good point, may just start parking it in low all the time and see if the sporadic no start disappears.
yep, well tried that, no help. I'm at a loss. Might just replace the starter cable since its not terribly expensive.

2008 Flame Red Rubicon 35's on Rock Monsters, 3.5 AEV lift, AEV bumpers, Gobi Rack, Superchips Vivid, Synergized and Metalcloaked
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post #8 of 10 Old 11-07-2017, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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just ordered a rebuilt TIPM from rockauto.com....$235.79 plus core of $67.5....customer comments say they self program in 30 seconds when turning key and leaving it in the on position. Will see what happens when it shows up. The rebuilds on ebay are about the same IIRC.

2008 Flame Red Rubicon 35's on Rock Monsters, 3.5 AEV lift, AEV bumpers, Gobi Rack, Superchips Vivid, Synergized and Metalcloaked
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post #9 of 10 Old 11-14-2017, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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Refurbished TIPM was delivered in short time from RockAuto, installed it this morning following the very simple procedure I found on interwebs....

So far so good, started strong, drove to work. Pulled over several times and restarted fine. Went out mid morning at office, still starts. No idiot lights on dash and as far as I can tell, everything is working normal. Will give it a few days before I call it a win.

2008 Flame Red Rubicon 35's on Rock Monsters, 3.5 AEV lift, AEV bumpers, Gobi Rack, Superchips Vivid, Synergized and Metalcloaked
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post #10 of 10 Old 11-28-2017, 09:20 PM
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Just had similar. Symptoms were relays clicking, dash lights up but no start. For me, once all the dash lights go off, Battery/lightening bolt thing warning light stays lit, (battery was actually good).

Mine was a bad ground. I'm hearing this is sorta common in JKs. Quick check for this: take one of your jumper cables, clip one end to engine block (mounting bolt from alternator mounting bar to block is a good one) and other end to battery NEGATIVE (-) post. Mine started right up.

So, taking the advice of another member's post, I bought a Duralast Switch-to-Starter Battery Cable 4 ga at AutoZone (40 inch is minimum length that works- recommend anything longer than 40") under $15 and permanently connected negative battery post to the alternator mount bolt. All good now.

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