E-Lock solenoid - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 09-01-2010, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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E-Lock solenoid

Like so many others, I have a pissed off rear e-lock. Magnet gets hot as a habenero when switched but does not move the sliding actuator disc. I presume it is the solenoid. So, I read some threads where some dealerships are just replacing the solenoid in lieu of the full carrier. This would suggest that they can get the damn part. I called 3 dealers and each parts counter knew nothing of what I was talking about (subnote: what the hell level of education are they requiring at the dealerships these days? I thought it was an employers market??). Does anybody know if this magical little doodad is available on its own? I cannot find it through Mopar site either. I have an '07 rubi and, of course it barely has any miles on it but it is past the warranty date. Hooray for me. Go Jeep for continuing to make a part with well documented failure rate. Thanks to ANYBODY with a part number that is not the whole tru loc.

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post #2 of 11 Old 09-02-2010, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnTheRoks View Post
Like so many others, I have a pissed off rear e-lock. Magnet gets hot as a habenero when switched but does not move the sliding actuator disc. I presume it is the solenoid. So, I read some threads where some dealerships are just replacing the solenoid in lieu of the full carrier. This would suggest that they can get the damn part. I called 3 dealers and each parts counter knew nothing of what I was talking about (subnote: what the hell level of education are they requiring at the dealerships these days? I thought it was an employers market??). Does anybody know if this magical little doodad is available on its own? I cannot find it through Mopar site either. I have an '07 rubi and, of course it barely has any miles on it but it is past the warranty date. Hooray for me. Go Jeep for continuing to make a part with well documented failure rate. Thanks to ANYBODY with a part number that is not the whole tru loc.
Sorry man to hear about yours... I can't help you with a part number either. Mine has failed twice.... but I bought the extended warranty thankfully so it was covered. Good luck on getting what you need! I will tell you, that Chrysler changed the design sometime after the 2007my went into production, and the first time they had to replace the whole ring gear and associated parts (basically a rebuild. New ring, pinion and locker mechanism).

The second time it failed, they got by with "only" replacing the locking mechanism (it shattered leaving metal parts in the rear end). (At least that is what I was told, they may have had to rebuild the whole thing again.)

The next time it fails, I will be way out of warranty (88k miles now) so I think ARB or maybe new axles altogether will be called for.

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post #3 of 11 Old 09-02-2010, 04:37 PM
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It's not the best or least expensive answer your looking for, but I have the spod and ran the locker straight to it, not taping in the oe wiring and TOTALLY independent so can use it when ever I want.

Plus, you have the option of running lights, OBA, and etc.

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post #4 of 11 Old 09-02-2010, 04:39 PM
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I believe you are SOL, they dont sell any of the locker parts separately and I've never heard of anyone just getting the solenoid replaced. The only part that is available separately.

Post up in the wanted section, someone may have one for parts or you'll be spending about 600 for new locker.


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"The tkob is coming!! The tkob is coming!!"
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-02-2010, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tkob1060 View Post
I believe you are SOL, they dont sell any of the locker parts separately and I've never heard of anyone just getting the solenoid replaced. The only part that is available separately.

Post up in the wanted section, someone may have one for parts or you'll be spending about 600 for new locker.
Now I am bummed. Obviously, there are few options for the rubi axle with the extra spline count. I either have to buck up for a stock lock POS or go with the 35 spline with ARB. I guess that's why I got this thing for 21k. I miss my Toyota FJ rear end. Don't miss the IFS. I guess its a wash.

ANDRE: Can you expand a little on your fix? I'm not opposed to anything at the moment.

Jeep Tru Lok = Jeep False Lok
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post #6 of 11 Old 09-02-2010, 11:14 PM
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Now I am bummed. Obviously, there are few options for the rubi axle with the extra spline count. I either have to buck up for a stock lock POS or go with the 35 spline with ARB. I guess that's why I got this thing for 21k. I miss my Toyota FJ rear end. Don't miss the IFS. I guess its a wash.

ANDRE: Can you expand a little on your fix? I'm not opposed to anything at the moment.

Jeep Tru Lok = Jeep False Lok
Well I didnt like being limited to being able lock the diff only in 4lo. I messed up my rear axle replaced with arb.

So in turn hooked up the rear Arb to the spod and decided to ditch the oe electronics relay fuse and use the another spod switch that has it's own relay and fuse for the front locker.

And now I have full control of my lockers no matter which position my tcase is in.

However there are write ups of how to bypass the canbus. But I understand your relay f'up..

Hoped this helped.

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post #7 of 11 Old 09-03-2010, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by andrelopez99 View Post
Well I didnt like being limited to being able lock the diff only in 4lo. I messed up my rear axle replaced with arb.

So in turn hooked up the rear Arb to the spod and decided to ditch the oe electronics relay fuse and use the another spod switch that has it's own relay and fuse for the front locker.

And now I have full control of my lockers no matter which position my tcase is in.

However there are write ups of how to bypass the canbus. But I understand your relay f'up..

Hoped this helped.
Yep. I get it. I'm going the same route. So I presume you went with the 35 spline ARB? Or do you not have the rubi rear axle? I have not found anything to match the 32 spline. I can't believe i'm going to throw 2k at a 44. I guess it will be stout.
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post #8 of 11 Old 09-03-2010, 11:56 AM
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Well, I replaced the rear axle currie D60. The cost of parts and labor to fix rubi d44 was about the cost D60 housing only. FAWK THAT! So I bit the bullet

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post #9 of 11 Old 09-03-2010, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Damn brother. Good for you. I'm SO envious. I was quoted about $1300 for parts to fix up the 44 with ARB, shafts & stuff - then I gotta do the damned gears too. Now I'm lookin at $2,000 and will still have a 44. I'd consider the 60 route, but I JUST welded the damn Rock Krawler truss over the rear pumpkin for my lift. AAAAHHHHHHHHHHGGGhhhh
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post #10 of 11 Old 09-03-2010, 01:48 PM
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It took a while to get where I'm at, alot of penny pinching. Alot of lying to the other half, NO I DONT HAVE MONEY, but then I got fedex/Ups making frequent visits, DAMB I'M A DICK, but I got a cool jeep. LMAO..

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post #11 of 11 Old 09-03-2010, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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It took a while to get where I'm at, alot of penny pinching. Alot of lying to the other half, NO I DONT HAVE MONEY, but then I got fedex/Ups making frequent visits, DAMB I'M A DICK, but I got a cool jeep. LMAO..
Apparently, we live clone lives. Still married, but confidence is waning. I'm going to dye an old loner coot like the ones we see on the way into Rubicon Springs every trip. You know the one's: Grizzley beards, wearing 44" boggers around their wasteline driving the old jeep with 31" kendas that crawls past you while you're airing down your 37's.
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