m13 fuse causing parasitic draw, help me locate these modules to test ~2014~ - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-24-2017, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Question m13 fuse causing parasitic draw, help me locate these modules to test ~2014~

Hey guys, new here to the forum so Hello

~2014 Wrangler Unlimited Sport 58k miles, 100% original purchased new

Here in the last couple weeks when the car is parked something is draining the battery to where the car won't start. I busted out the voltmeter and test light and did some extensive testing. I've concluded that whatever the m13 fuse is powering is draining the battery.

I've pulled the fuse and I've been driving the car, after the car sits for say 12 hours it fires right up. So I have confirmed with the m13 fuse physically removed it has solved the parasitic drain on the battery.

~~So here's my question, does anybody know where some/all of these modules are in the car/under the dash? There are several things powered by this fuse and I'm not sure what/where they all are. I want to get a good understanding before I get in there, and even have to potentially remove the dash

m13 fuse power in order

>Cluster
>Node wireless ignition-win
>Switch multi-function left lin
>Siren
>Module intrusion transceiver
>Sensor intrusion ultrasonic 1-lp left
>Sensor intrusion ultrasonic 2-lp right
>Sensor intrusion ultrasonic 5-cargo
>Sensor intrusion ultrasonic 3-console left
>Sensor intrusion ultrasonic 4-console right

I've also attached a link for the wiring diagram if you want to take a look yourself. It's page 2 and 3

file:///C:/Users/Loat/Desktop/m13%20fuse%20Diagram.pdf

I appreciate any help and insight guys. This is my wife's car and she's pretty bummed that her beloved Jeep left her stranded one night. So I've been driving it since.
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-24-2017, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2014OEMJEEP View Post

I've also attached a link for the wiring diagram if you want to take a look yourself. It's page 2 and 3

file:///C:/Users/Loat/Desktop/m13%20fuse%20Diagram.pdf
The link is to a place on your computer. We can't get there from here.

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post #3 of 9 Old 05-24-2017, 06:37 PM
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Do you know how much draw the circuits on that fuse are actually causing? How old is the battery?

First, I would test the battery. All modern vehicles will have some draw on the battery all the time, so a weak battery can cause a no start after sitting for a few hours, even if it starts fine when only allowed to sit a short time.

If the battery is for sure good, I would use an accurate ammeter to measure the actual draw with and without that fuse in place (let the vehicle sit, doors closed for at least a couple minutes to allow temporary draws to subside). Some draw on those circuits is probably normal.
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-24-2017, 08:39 PM
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Normal JK ignition off draw is five to thirty-five milliamperes.
More than that requires further investigation.

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post #5 of 9 Old 05-28-2018, 04:25 PM
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I'm having exactly the same issue on my 2014 Jeep JKU Rubicon. Measured the current before pulling M13 @ .57A and after pulling at 0.01A. Were you able to find a root cause ?
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post #6 of 9 Old 07-26-2018, 09:33 AM
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Hate to bump this, but I'm having the exact same issue right now. Fuse M13 is drawing 0.68 amps (1.6 initially), which falls to 0.07 after I pull it. Anyone have a solution? Dunno diddly squad about testing each individual circuit.

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post #7 of 9 Old 07-26-2018, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoraBora View Post
Hate to bump this, but I'm having the exact same issue right now. Fuse M13 is drawing 0.68 amps (1.6 initially), which falls to 0.07 after I pull it. Anyone have a solution? Dunno diddly squad about testing each individual circuit.
the reasons can be as many as there are modules controlled by the TIPM since the “ignition-off draw” ( note where the hyphen is on that ...) is essentially the bootstrap loader for the various system functions ( think of the clock , the anti-theft , alarms , etc) that are important for operability. I’d say that you should be more worried if it did NOT have a draw when turned off. There is usually a temporal window of time which permits the module to detect an ACK-ID or input code which should only demand that level of current draw during . It can be upwards of 5 min but eventually there will be a decrease by some amps (tho’ not completely). It is designed such that a properly grounded, regularly operated vehicle with such a memory function will usually be in service frequent enough for the power-off draw to not be noticeable because by the time it would be enough drain to be noticed , it will have been turned on again and thus any parasitically drawn amount would be recharged .

I guess wht I’m trying to say is, if you didn’t have a parasitic draw on your IOD fuse, the memory stored specifics would have to be relearned at every startup and the sh*t wouldn’t work right.
If you have issue where this is what you suppose is draining your battery to the point of not being able to start the Jeep , you’ve either let it sit for over 21(iirc?) or 24 days , I can’t recall precisely , and maybe the IOD resulted in a far too low of a starting amperage availability but that is not too common. FWIW, if your jeep isn’t run for long periods of time , disco the battery ( edit: or pull the IOD fuse)
However , if this is a daily driver and you’re finding it drained over night after just parking it , I’d sggt there’d be faulty switch, a ground ( my money’d be on that ) ,an add-on or possibly a bad battery or something that is exacerbating the amperage draw that is normally supposed to be occurring. ronjenx was accurate with his statement about anything different or exceeding between 5 to about 35 milliamperes is something to look into.

Many people inadvertently loosen or even have some ground strap or nut loosen-up from road vibrations. I know I’ve read some people bump that ground nut or kick one of those ground wires nearest the drivers left foot loose from time to time. But, yeah...the draw for when the ignition isn’t ‘On’ is supposed to occur...the IOD draw isn’t the issue tho it can contribute when something else is mucked-up w the finicky electronics of the JKs.






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Last edited by j3ff3ry_j33p; 07-27-2018 at 06:28 AM.
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-26-2018, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
ronjenx was accurate with his statement about anything over .25 to .35 milliamperes being something to look into.
That was 5 to 35 milliamperes.

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post #9 of 9 Old 07-27-2018, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
That was 5 to 35 milliamperes.

corrected. Thnkyou.



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