2015 Rubi locker & Sensor mistake! - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 03-26-2017, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Rubi locker & Sensor mistake!

I installed Spicer's Ultimate Dana 44, it has the stock locker connection in but no sensor.
So, the Jeep's sensor connector just hangs there. When it locks, the rear is solid and the front flashes, not really a big deal but….
I tested the wires.
The sensor wires, on one leg it has 12vdc so when the sensor closes –pulls out- “locker is locked” it shorts the two sensor wires together to indicate locked.
The locker wires, one of those has 12vdc on it as well to energize the locker itself.
My dumb ass thinks…. “Why don’t I just stick the 12vdc from the locker to the return wire of the sensor wires and that should Lock the locker and indicate a solid Front Locker light on the dash. This will be great!”
I did that and - NOT!!! I must have burned up or de-programmed something because:
1. It will not indicate 4wd in HI or LOW
2. It will not shift out of first gear
3. The fuel gage indicates empty with the gas pump indicator
4. Dash brake light on constant
5. Flashing Sway Bar dash indicator
6. Check Engine dash indicator
7. & I cannot actuate the lockers or sway bar disco
I can use my JKS programmer to set tire and gear changes as well as pull and clear DTC’s
Some DTC’s are: P0463 Fuel level sensor 1 circuit high, U0414 Implausible data received from FDCM, C1008 Brake fluid level circuit high and C1405 Transfer case range position sensor circuit high.
I know guys…. I want to kick my own ass. So, besides: “Dude you really fucked up!” And before I call the dealership to schedule an ass rape, has anyone dealt with or know what could be wrong? Or what will probably need replaced?

BTW, it's an AutoMagic trans.

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Last edited by Sirjeepalot; 03-26-2017 at 02:23 PM.
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post #2 of 18 Old 03-26-2017, 06:57 PM
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Check all your fuses first. You might have burned up a control module.

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post #3 of 18 Old 03-26-2017, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rb6700 View Post
Check all your fuses first. You might have burned up a control module.

Pissing off my wife since way back
I checked for a popped fuse... Ill double check. Might as well check all of those relays while I'm at it.

Pretty pissed off at myself, hope It won't cost a shit load to fix.

Thanks

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post #4 of 18 Old 03-27-2017, 07:06 AM
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Check all fuses. I have found a (what I thought was unrelated) random blown fuse when I couldn't lock my lockers.


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post #5 of 18 Old 03-27-2017, 09:04 AM
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I dont have any help to offer but have a question....why is there no sensor in the UD44?

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post #6 of 18 Old 03-27-2017, 09:10 AM
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The UD60s do not have the sensors either. The sensor only confirms the axle is locked and stops the blinking on the dash. The stock sensor breaks quite often in the Rubicon housing...usually from people not paying close attention when either installing new gears or repairing broken lockers.


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post #7 of 18 Old 03-27-2017, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi-8 View Post
The UD60s do not have the sensors either. The sensor only confirms the axle is locked and stops the blinking on the dash. The stock sensor breaks quite often in the Rubicon housing...usually from people not paying close attention when either installing new gears or repairing broken lockers.
Exactly..

The front locker dash indicator was flashing and it bothered me... So I decided to fawk it up!

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post #8 of 18 Old 03-27-2017, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi-8 View Post
The UD60s do not have the sensors either. The sensor only confirms the axle is locked and stops the blinking on the dash. The stock sensor breaks quite often in the Rubicon housing...usually from people not paying close attention when either installing new gears or repairing broken lockers.
Thanks for the info. I had not realized that

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post #9 of 18 Old 03-27-2017, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirjeepalot View Post
Exactly..

The front locker dash indicator was flashing and it bothered me... So I decided to fawk it up!
I did the same thing!


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post #10 of 18 Old 03-27-2017, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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I removed and checked EVERY fuse and operationally checked EVERY relay in the fuse box.
Every fucking one of them are 100% GOOD. Now I'm really pissed!
After the removal and testing, I still have ALL of my broke ass symptoms.

So, now I guess I have to check for power at all of those points. This sucks...

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post #11 of 18 Old 03-29-2017, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Well I'm out of things to try. I really fucked it up this time!
Ill have to schedule an @$$ rape at the stealership!

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post #12 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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So apparently the dealer fixed it and it’s ready for me to pick up. A burned up TIPM totaling just under $800!
That’s a lot of beer I could have bought!
So I had to ask, “What is actually burned up?”

Dealer: “A circuit inside the TIPM is burned open going to ground and the entire TIPM needs to be replaced.”

Me: “That is really retarded, Isn’t that what the fuses are for?”

Dealer: “Yeah the circuits inside those are not very robust and that wire getting pinched blew the ground circuit to the frt diff , fuel sender, brake fluid sensor, t-case switch and frt sway bar. They all have the same ground from the tipm . Crazy how one pinched wire caused all that.”

Well guy’s, I’m sure I could have replaced the TIPM AKA: THE FUCKING FUSEBOX!” myself but supposedly it needs to be properly programmed, and if that gets messed up you need to buy another. What a Fucking jack booted thug, planned obsolescence bullshit thing for Jeep to engineer! That really pisses me off!
You guy’s better make sure the cover is on your “Fuse box”! Any moisture, lint ball or bug gets in there and just dare looks at the circuits and that fucking thing will melt down!
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post #13 of 18 Old 04-12-2017, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Blanco Loco is back home.
Everything is functional.
$848 for the labor TIPM with an alignment and all the shitty tax and other charges. Fuckers!

Still want to fix the blinking front locker light but need think it through A LOT Better! WTF!
So, the install sheet for the UD44 axle specs out a Dana switch harness kit 10021771. Sounds like an entire dash switch to axle deal for Sports etc. They also say that "If the flashing light is undesirable, use the Dana switch harness kit above."
Suck ass Dana! I'm not replacing my (even thou stupidly designed) POOPicon locker harness. There has to be an easier way.

So here is my advice: Do not be a fucktard like me and feed the locker + voltage to the return of the locker sensor wire!

Hope my mistake can or will help someone in the future!

Oh, by the way. (According to the Stealership)
Before the alignment the traction control was kicking on because the steering wheel was not centered while driving straight.
Too many fucking sensors in my opinion! Whatevs!

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post #14 of 18 Old 04-13-2017, 07:18 PM
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You could wire both the front and rear lockers to individual switches. You wouldn't have any lights on the dash in that scenario

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post #15 of 18 Old 04-13-2017, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TCdawg View Post
You could wire both the front and rear lockers to individual switches. You wouldn't have any lights on the dash in that scenario
Yep, I've been thinking of doing just that.

Cut off both sensor plugs, seal the wire ends and install lighted toggles/buttons or nipples on the dash and be done with it. And the plus side of that, Ill get to lock them up whenever I fuggin want.
Stupid ass Rubicon switches anyways!

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post #16 of 18 Old 04-13-2017, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Now that I think a bit more on this... The Rubicon harness surely runs through that fucking TIPM
The Rubi harness is more than likely 40-90% worthless other than the locker plug.
I guess Ill find out how much of it I can salvage.

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post #17 of 18 Old 04-23-2017, 05:07 PM
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Now that your knightmare is over, just do what i did. Take a small relay, take the leads going to your locker and connect them to the +|- of the relay, connect the old locker sensor wires to the NO and C termainals. Your JK will now behave just like before. I can snap a few pics and upload a diagram if you need one.
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post #18 of 18 Old 04-29-2017, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schnauzer View Post
Now that your knightmare is over, just do what i did. Take a small relay, take the leads going to your locker and connect them to the +|- of the relay, connect the old locker sensor wires to the NO and C termainals. Your JK will now behave just like before. I can snap a few pics and upload a diagram if you need one.
The relay trickery sounds like a good deal if I change my mind on Illuminated Rocker Switches directly to the lockers.
What relay did you use?
Was thinking a solid state relay but stopped looking.

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