Guys I need some help. I am getting a full voltage drop at wide open throttle. Here's my setup.
2007 JK unlimited
Upgraded alternator, starter, and TIPM cables (2 gauge)
Upgraded ground cables (4ga right now, but I am in the process of changing them to 2 gauge)
New Alternator (that tests OK at the auto parts store, replaced this year)
Optima Yellow Top Battery
Distribution block and auxilary fuse box
What I've tried so far:
Replaced alternator (tested bad)
Replaced serpentine belt
Replaced belt tensioner
Replaced 4 gauge power wire with 2 gauge (thought there might be a short, there wasn't)
The starter wire has a fiberglass heat sleeve on it
I have an android based head unit with TORQUE installed and a bluetooth ODBII unit that communicates with it. So I can graph my voltage as I drive. When I give it heavy acceleration, the voltage drops from 14.4 v (alternator) down to 12v (battery power). I am getting Terminal field generator faults (sometimes) and sometimes random misfires (although that could be due to something else, like the RIPP long tube headers sucking air). I'm going to try to disconnect the auxillary power system and see if there is something there causing it, however all of that is fused. There is a large fuse on the 2/0 cable running to the distribution block, then two large fuses (160 amp and 200 amp I think) in there. Then the secondary fuse box has all 30 amp fuses. So any short beyond that which would be severe enough to pull all my voltage down would pop a fuse. The auxiliary fuse box is literally 3 or 4 inches from the distribution block. so no chance of short there. I've added an extra 4 gauge ground cable from the battery to the alternator bracket to ensure it isn't a block ground issue.
I don't think it is a belt slipping and I've not changed the alternator pulley. I realize that overspinning the alternator can cause this type of effect.
So all I'm left with is maybe a bad TIPM module. I think I read somewhere that the TIPM has the voltage regulator in it, not the alternator like the older alternators. Is that accurate? If so, how do I test that? I hate to replace a $500 + TIPM on a "might be" basis.
Tomorrow I will try disconnecting the winch cable and auxiliary fuse block system. That would leave only the starter, TIPM, and Alternator connected to the battery. If I still get drop what else can I check???