I got my jeep a month ago. I have already put 6K in it in parts. I a lot of posts of people doing the same thing. All have pieces of critical info I ran into needing. The 2014 is the last year with crappy audio. 2015 it changed and it sounds much better stock. I would not stay stock there either but I am starting with a 2014 with the amp and alpine sub. I started with a single disk radio and no nav but it did have uconnect installed and sat.
1. speaker swap sound bar. Starting point. took out stock speaker. Speaker is mopar part #. Heavy mag. No sound from sound bar so this is weird. changed speaker to JL 6.5 speaker with adapters. had to drill holes as noted in other posts. not bad. Chop some plastic edges. Got them mounted back up. These are 4ohm. Sounds much cleared but not loud of course. Highs are there, the prior speaker was one way and did not have good highs. Unimpressed with this but it is needed end state.
2. got parts for coming sections. amp, amp bracket from ebay for under seat, wiring, good quality bussman fuse @ amps needed for amp(180A), etc.
3. Take down: Took apart the dash on the passenger side first. Followed a forum post and it was great. that thing does not come out of there easy but it is not too bad. That screw under the dash coming in from floor to speaker pod is kind of a pain without good extensions. I used a 1/4 with swivel. Got speakers out and put in a set of polk MM6501 speakers. components speakers with crossover. the speaker mounted directly to the speaker pod not usedin the bracket. reused the seals. Worked great. Took tweaters out of dash pods. Not going to be able to stuff these tweeters in the factors pods which is not what I wanted. I took the tweater wire and zip tied it to the new wire I ran then connected new wire and used included polk mount to put it flush to the dash using a brace on the back I made. Worked fine and now I can move the tweeter too. I kept stock parts just in case.
4. Next found space under glove box for both cross overs.
5. Had to replace the dash on the passenger side. It has scratches all over it. You do not need to do this for audio I did it for looks. Had to tear the air bag out and put it all back with battery disc of course. All went fine.
6. Tear apart drivers side. This was not as bad as it sounds. Just as easy as pass I think. Took out box using the pry method instead of entire deconstruct. Worked fine, swapped the woofer and tweeter. wires for both and the wire I soldered to the leading wire for woofer went through dash with coat hanger to pass side. attached wires to the units and zipped them down. Then ran 4 wires back to pass seat... 1-2 for feeds to new speakers(R&L)3-4 for high level inputs for my amp. Ran them all to pass side and down to channel on door then to seat.
7. uninstalled the sub in back. Bought a standard panel and installed that over the space. Installed a 10" JL sub(JL Audio SGR-10TW3) I had sitting for something else new in box. And bought a Sound Ordance box from amazon. The box takes up less room than the one for the 8. and I can move it or take out if needed quick.
8. Took out seat. Installed amp bracket. Have to buy bolts but he gives you the list. You do not need all of them. I used two of my existing and only used two of the ones in his list for the 2014. It all fit fine with heated seats. The heated seats do not really seem to show on this model. But got amp installed too(Alpine PDV75v9). Ran wires. High level to rcas. Speakers to speaker outs. fronts only. Installed my heavy power to the battery using the handy method though door jam. mounted fuse to existing hole with hardware and zip tied it. Came out nice. Ran ground to existing. This is weak and I know it but I am dying to hear this.
9. Test. Ehhh. Cannot hear back at all now. Ok front even full down back is quiet. Front rocks though. good bass. Man with sub run I can really hit with 350W @2ohm. fronts are hitting too much. those Polks are really nice speakers. Turned on HP and cut it at about 120. I can hear the damn speakers rattling the speaker pods! Man I read about that but had no filler handy. Now it is all reinstalled. But that is terrible. Going to have to fix that with filler for sure. It simply cannot handle real speakers. Something missing cannot spot it. Need to add rears to amp.
10. spliced into rear wires at pass door run. Got feeds and inputs just like I did in dash. 4 wires. Ran them to the amp. High level in via RCA. Tested. What the heck? when I use fader for rear I have zero bass. I mean nothing. All highs. those highs are clear as a bell though but still.
11. read more. Found out that the outputs on the amp are...
a. Front tweeters: not positive on this but sounds like feed from the radio RCAs(kind of a cheat) since they are low power.
b. Front woofers: the best one to use if you cannot sum outputs. This one has all but the very highs. Barely noticeable the very tops are cut here.
c. rear sound bar: cut out for highs only. no bass at all. 120ish.
d. Sub stereo feed is bass from C only.
So nice. no full channels. And I want fader on radio to work if at all possible. Bought a lc6i. On the way. I am going to sum the rear two and put that in for front and see how I like it. I am going to look into that tweeter feed too. I do not really want to sum that if it is just a rca with all signals and no amplitude level. the LC series will sum but even the top of the line lc8 will not sum two different outputs. so you could not sum 2 + 2 for 2 outputs. only 1 channel can be summed too'. you can sum 3 to 1 stereo feed but not 2 into 2 separate.