First post - power inverter install details needed - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 14 Old 07-12-2010, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 21
Feedback: 0 reviews
First post - power inverter install details needed

Hey all,

I was browsing through old threads on here and it appears a few of you have installed power inverters of various wattages. The one I'm looking at is a 1.2kw continuous/3kw peak, and it's about 9x9x3.

What I need to know is this:

Where does one put fuses/etc in the JK engine compartment? There's no room in there! I'm doing headlight relays too, so ideally I'd put them all in the same place. Pics would help immensely, as I just can't see where the hell anything will fit. I had a TJ a few years ago, and it has TONS of room to put whatever you want. This thing has a smaller motor and has NO room!

To calculate amps for a load like this, do you divide 3000 by 12, or 120? I would assume that it's 12 since that's what's going through the wires to feed it. That said, what gauge of wire is recommended, and what fuse size? I'm guessing it's a 4ga minimum. I generally buy all my electrical hardware from Parts Express, and they seem to have a good selection of wires for a decent price - along with fuses that are rated pretty high.

That brings me to this question: what size fuse do I need?

And finally, I was scouting two places: passenger side in the cargo compartment (isn't there a hole or someplace for taillight wiring I can use if I run the wiring down the length of the frame?), or under the passenger seat. Under the seat has two problems: slushy boots in the winter time, and some sort of sensor arrangement on a steel bracket that hogs a good amount of space under the seat! I don't know what to do about slushy boots - mount it far enough back I guess, or turn it around backwards (same problem in the rear, though), but that sensor unit has me thinking....can I fab up a bracket to hold the inverter AND the sensor pack? My concern here is heat being given off by the inverter during use, and that pack being in close proximity to it since it can't be relocated very far.

How does one go about doing this?

Be patient with me; I had my 97 TJ for 3 years, and have had this JK for 3 weeks. I have a pretty good understanding of things but I'm still learning on this one. So far I've learned that whomever put the oil filler cap on that valve cover with all the stuff in the way is an idiot; first time ever I found the need for a funnel when changing oil!
wyldejackyl is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 Old 07-12-2010, 08:59 PM
Rock God
 
BumpInTheRoad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,694
Garage
Feedback: 7 reviews

Unless you have a dual-battery setup, there's plenty of room between the battery and the fuse box on the passenger side, and between the ECM and the brake booster on the driver's side. You'll have to make up you're own bracket/mounting surface.

I used snap-together relay plugs and actually attached them to the back side of the existing fuse box, and mounted my aux fuse box to the plastic base that holds the battery, just keeping clear of the battery hold-down clamp. It's dark here now so I can't take any pix, but I'll try to remember tomorrow.

There's also a lot of clearance on top of things, due to the curved sides of the hood.

Big question is, what the heck do you need 1.2kw/3kw for? You going to run a residential air conditioner or something? A laptop draws 100w, a 19" lcd TV about the same, a small dorm-room refrigerator about 500w to start, then around 200w to keep the compressor going. I find a 500w inverter (about 6A) sufficient for anything I've ever wanted to run in the Jeep, and that's well within the capacity of the cigarette lighter outlets (rated at 20A)

The inverter is rated 3,000w @ 120V/AC, so that's 3,000w/120v=25A, plus figure a minimum 20% additional for circuit inefficiency, so that's 30A total. I'd use a 40A auto-reset circuit breaker instead of a fuse and, depending on distance, 10 to 6 gauge wire (use automotive- or marine-grade stranded wire). And don't try using that inverter with the engine turned-off, or you'll wish you had a dual-battery setup.

I'm a JKO Reject

Last edited by BumpInTheRoad; 07-12-2010 at 09:01 PM.
BumpInTheRoad is offline  
post #3 of 14 Old 07-12-2010, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 21
Feedback: 0 reviews

Yes, pics would help immensely.

What do I need it for? Well, what does one "need" anything for, really? The truth is, I'm getting a great deal on it (roughly half price, NIB), and I would like it to run a shop vac and maybe some other power tools. In addition of course to things like my laptop, digital camera, cell phone charger(s), etc. Overkill? Probably, but I'm okay with it.

What is that thing under the seat, and can I move it? Where did you put your inverter?

I've always used auto/marine grade wire; what do you think I'm going to do, get THHN from the hardware store and wire it up like it was my house?!

I wouldn't know where to begin with a dual battery setup. Perhaps there's more space under the hood than I realize, but I just don't see where it all goes. Of course I'll keep the engine on. You're also assuming I'll be drawing full load, which I may never do. I was thinking of replacing my stock battery with an Optima Yellow Top, but we'll see. It seems dubious to me to be using a deep cycle battery as a starting battery, but I suppose people do it all the time with no ill effects.
wyldejackyl is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 14 Old 07-13-2010, 10:27 AM
Wheeler
 
ie43's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Empire, NV
Posts: 12
Feedback: 0 reviews

I recently posted about the install that I did.

As far as fuse requirements, the manual for your inverter should say. My 2500 watt continuous / 5000 watt peak inverter required a 250 amp slow blow fuse. The fuse you install has to be able to handle continuous output of the inverter plus some amount for losses in the inverter. In my case 2500 / 12 * 1.2 = 250

The amperage requirements that bump in the road posted about it on the AC side of the inverter. No need for a fuse there, you have to figure the DC amperage. 1200 / 12 * 1.2 = 120 AMPs. I'd round up to a 150 Amp fuse.

I haven't gotten around to posting where I mounted the fuse but I'll get it up today in the thread below. I just used a right angle portion of the cut off pieces of the fender liners from when I went to flat flares to mount to the firewall bolt for the battery tray, and mounted the fuse holder to it.

See the link below for how I mounted it up. I put mine under the passenger seat facing forward. I have a 2 door so facing forward seemed to be the best access for me.

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31994

As far as wire gauge, once again what is suggested in the manual. For mine 4 ga. was recommended for lengths less than four feet and 2 ga. for lengths over. I got my wire at Lowes and covered the portions in the engine bay in wire harness wrap.

Last edited by ie43; 07-13-2010 at 10:30 AM.
ie43 is offline  
post #5 of 14 Old 07-13-2010, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 21
Feedback: 0 reviews

I did end up getting it today; and it did come with a manual. It also came with (what looks like) about 6' each of 4ga hookup cable. I'll probably need more than this but it's not the end of the world.

Wire at Lowe's!? Isn't there a difference in insulation between household and automotive wiring? Although I suppose covered in a loom, it really won't matter. I'm assuming you used that hole in the firewall everyone speaks so highly of, ran the cable beneath the door sill, and under the seat?

I read the link on your writeup but there are no pics there, and there's another link within it of another install - at least two of the pix on that one are dead. It turns out I have access to a rather large supply of scrap aluminum to make mounting plates; now I just need to figure out where to locate everything. 150A seems enormous! That really puts things in perspective considering the alternator only puts out 160A!
wyldejackyl is offline  
post #6 of 14 Old 07-14-2010, 09:12 AM
Wheeler
 
ie43's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Empire, NV
Posts: 12
Feedback: 0 reviews

Yeah I got it at Lowe's. I'm not sure of the differences in insulation although the insulation on the wire I got is quite a bit stiffer than the insulation on all of the other wires under the hood. But I figure with wrapping it in a loom it should be fine anyway.

The pictures should be working, I just opened the link and they all popped up.
ie43 is offline  
post #7 of 14 Old 07-14-2010, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 21
Feedback: 0 reviews

I apologize; your link works, the other one has some dead pictures. I was thinking of using the larger holes that go top to bottom - not on the sides of the track like those you used, although I think your method is better.

Aside from seeing some examples of how peripheral fuses are mounted beneath the hood, the other thing I'd like to know is what is that thing beneath the passenger seat, and where did you relocate yours? Looks like a box, with some harnesses coming out of it. It's on the left side seat track as you're looking forward.
wyldejackyl is offline  
post #8 of 14 Old 07-15-2010, 10:06 AM
Wheeler
 
ie43's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Empire, NV
Posts: 12
Feedback: 0 reviews

On mine, there wasn't anything under the seat from the factory. That space was completely open with the exception of the harness you can see running next to the center console. I don't know what it is for. However, my inverter called for a chassis ground and there happens to be a ground stud right there near the harness.

A picture of yours would be helpful. I didn't have to relocate anything from the factory. I'll get the picture up of how I mounted up the fuse as soon as I can.
ie43 is offline  
post #9 of 14 Old 07-15-2010, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 21
Feedback: 0 reviews

If I have time I'll take a pic in the next few days. I'm going up to the Northwoods for the weekend, leaving right after work. This project is definitely going to bleed into the next few weeks! 2ga wire is expensive as hell too!
wyldejackyl is offline  
post #10 of 14 Old 07-16-2010, 11:35 AM
Wheeler
 
ie43's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Empire, NV
Posts: 12
Feedback: 0 reviews

Yeah that's why I went with Lowes a ton cheaper for the wire there even if it isn't automotive...
ie43 is offline  
post #11 of 14 Old 07-18-2010, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 21
Feedback: 0 reviews

Bending that stuff had to be a bitch. I looked at some of the THHN and it is pretty stiff. I'm going to see if welding cable is cheaper, and I have to get you a shot of under that seat.
wyldejackyl is offline  
post #12 of 14 Old 07-19-2010, 01:32 PM
Wheeler
 
ie43's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Empire, NV
Posts: 12
Feedback: 0 reviews

Yeah I had to use a few choice words when trying to fish the wires up to the battery.
ie43 is offline  
post #13 of 14 Old 07-19-2010, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 21
Feedback: 0 reviews



Here's a shot of that box under the seat. I don't know what it is - inertial sensor for the airbags? The TJ used to have it on the hump just forward of the shifter. Otherwise maybe something with the passenger-side airbag sensor/disable? It's blatantly in the way and will have to be relocated. I'm assuming so long as it's oriented properly, I can move it someplace else nearby.

I found #2 welding cable for about $1.15/foot. Sounds like a no-brainer. The only problem is the shop is open from 7:30 til 4:30, and I work from 6:30 til 6.

Next question: for a fuse as large as the one needed, did you use a wafer-type fuse? I can't find any others that will carry that kind of amperage.

I secured a piece of .250" sheet aluminum from work to mount the fuse block as well as all the hardware for my headlight relays (should the actual headlights ever get here).
wyldejackyl is offline  
post #14 of 14 Old 07-21-2010, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 21
Feedback: 0 reviews

Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?
wyldejackyl is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome