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post #1 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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HELP! jeep won't start

i just backed my jeep (2013 auto JKU) out of my garage. it started totally fine. i shut it off for about 5 minutes to load some stuff in the back and now it won't start.

when i turn the key, i can hear a click. it will click about once per second as long as i hold the key in the start position. the click sound seems to be coming from the area where the starter is located. i tried jump starting it. the clicking seems to be louder when the jumper cables are connected, but the jeep still does nothing other than click.

all dash lights, radio, headlights, etc seem to be working fine.

i don't think it is the battery since i was unable to jump it, although it is strange that the click sound gets louder when connected to the battery of another vehicle.

anyone know what is going on here, or what i should check?
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post #2 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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plugged in my flashcal and came up with the following error codes:

B162C - left low beam control circuit high
B1634 - left hi beam control circuit high
B210D - battery voltage low
B1630 - right low beam control circuit high

so it does look like my battery is probably dead or on it's way out, but if that was the only problem i would think i could still jump start it. something else must be wrong.

i'm researching the other codes right now but on the surface they don't seem related to the starting issue.
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post #3 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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for what it's worth, i have the susquehanna headlamp harness/relays with 80/100 bulbs. not sure if that could be causing the three codes related to the low/hi beams... but the headlamps still work fine in both hi and low mode.
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post #4 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 05:05 PM
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Are your battery terminals clean and tight? I'd verify condition and connections.

Sounds like a loose cable, bad connection, or broken ground strap unless you just had a cell short out (which can happen).

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post #5 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boopiejones View Post
for what it's worth, i have the susquehanna headlamp harness/relays with 80/100 bulbs. not sure if that could be causing the three codes related to the low/hi beams... but the headlamps still work fine in both hi and low mode.
Those codes are nothing - they are from your Susquehana harness, and not an issue.

The low battery voltage is the only code to worry about - volt meter time!

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post #6 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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voltage reads 10.5, so there's one problem. but assuming nothing else was wrong, shouldn't i still be able to jump it?

and i did doublecheck the battery connections. they look fine but i took them off and cleaned them anyway. problem persists.

Last edited by boopiejones; 06-25-2016 at 05:33 PM.
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post #7 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 06:15 PM
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[QUOTE=boopiejones;3927865]voltage reads 10.5, so there's one problem. but assuming nothing else was wrong, shouldn't i still be able to jump it?
QUOTE]

Maybe, maybe not. How good are your jumper cables? What where you trying to jump it from? How good were your connections at each of your jumper cable connections?

I've seen trouble jumping a car due to a bad battery causing resistance, poor jumper cable connections, cheap jumper cables, etc. Once I had a situation where I had to be squeezing the jumper cable clamps extra tight to get a good enough connection to get a vehicle to crank when jumping.

Not saying any of that applies, but I have seen a vehicle that was difficult to jump start, even though the only problem was a dead battery.
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post #8 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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i will try rejumping it when my wife gets home, using a different set of cables to eliminate that as the problem.

i tried hooking up a battery charger to it and the charger acts weird. charging indicator needle jumps around quickly between about 95% and 100% charged and the charging indicator light flashes wildly between red (charging) and green (fully charged).

i've used this charger before on other vehicles, so i know it works.
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post #9 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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here's a couple videos of the dash while tryign to start the jeep. first video is without any charger connected. second video is with an emergency quick jump starter connected. in the second video the clicking seems a tiny bit louder and it occasionally clicks faster as well.


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post #10 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 06:58 PM
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You are killing too many brain cells here. Your battery is bad. Replace the battery.

As said before, there can be a ton of reasons why jumping is not working. Bad cables, bad connections, or my bet, you have a short in your battery. Even when you connect jumper cables, the short is still there, causing havoc on your electrical system.

If you really have to beat this to death, try disconnecting the bad battery and just jumping it from another vehicle. Although personally, I think that is a waste of time. A new battery and you will be good to go.
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post #11 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 08:26 PM
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Yup. I had what I could have sworn was a good battery actually have such a short that was undetectable and microscopic that an unmagnified eye wasn't able to see the hairline crack around the positive post . I bought one of the diehard platinum 78/34s they no longer produce and it didn't display whacked-out electrical spazouts like yours any longer. OEM batteries are only pretending to be TrailRated , I'm guessing .....

I wouldn't send current thru like that pop pop popping test too much; JKs are tender little b*tches....
I concur , don't panic and look for a replacement battery ...



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post #12 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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i took my battery out and tried using my wife's minivan battery. her battery is relatively new. i disconnected the + and - cables from her battery, and hooked the known good battery up to my jeep via jumper cables connected to the jeep's + and - cables.

this did not fix the problem. it still makes the clicking noise when i turn the key.

i am guessing i need a new battery AND a new starter? is it possible the battery crapped out and destroyed the starter, or the starter crapped out and destroyed the battery? any thoughts?

Last edited by boopiejones; 06-25-2016 at 08:46 PM.
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post #13 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 09:45 PM
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Sorry, my thoughts at this point are mostly questions:

Are your battery terminals and clamps clean (i.e., shiny on the inside surfaces)? A battery terminal brush may be your best friend.
A partially corroded connection can prevent adequate battery charging, and can prevent sufficient current flow.

Have you checked that all your ground cables are intact and connected well at both ends? (Most people forget that half of the electrical system).

Is there any discoloration or any corrosion fuzz at any connections?

Do you have a volt meter? Do you know how to look for voltage drop across a cable or component?

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post #14 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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1) yes the terminals/clamps are clean and i don't see corrosion anywhere. i did remove, clean and reinstall the clamps and nothing changed.

2) i have not checked all the ground cables. where are they located? i checked the one closest to the starter. it looked fine but i disconnected and reconnected it and the problem remained.

3) no corrosion or fuzz at any connections

4) yes, i have a volt meter, but no, i don't really know how to test for voltage drop. i tried googling it and it looks like i would need a solid battery before testing?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post
Sorry, my thoughts at this point are mostly questions:

Are your battery terminals and clamps clean (i.e., shiny on the inside surfaces)? A battery terminal brush may be your best friend.
A partially corroded connection can prevent adequate battery charging, and can prevent sufficient current flow.

Have you checked that all your ground cables are intact and connected well at both ends? (Most people forget that half of the electrical system).

Is there any discoloration or any corrosion fuzz at any connections?

Do you have a volt meter? Do you know how to look for voltage drop across a cable or component?
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post #15 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 10:15 PM
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Dood, why you gotta' eliminate all the easy fixes?

If you're hip to your voltmeter, don't worry about voltage drop, but follow the voltage.

Park your negative lead on the negative post, then look for your battery voltage (I'm guessing 12.5-13.1V) at the positive post, then the near end of the cable, then the far end of the cable . . . if you're losing less than a couple tenths by the time you get to the starter, everything upstream is pretty OK.

If it looks like the positive side is making the trip with no significant loss, park the positive lead on the + terminal and cruise the ground side.

Sorry I don't have a magic bullet, but a voltmeter will help you earn the answer. Electrical frustrates the shit out of a lot of people, but just relax and be methodical. As long as it's in the "dumb" (non-electronic) side of things, a voltmeter will get you there.

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post #16 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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to make sure i understand voltage drop testing correctly... i would start at the battery, post to post, to get a baseline. let's say 12.5v. then crank the engine and it should still read 12.5. then test the terminal connections (positive multimeter on one post and negative on the corresponding terminal clamp) the reading when the engine is cranked should still 12.5. then i test the starter the same way. positive multimeter on the starter cable and negative multimeter on the starter's positive post. crank engine and confirm reading close to 12.5. negative is tested by putting positive multimeter on ground cable and negative on body of starter.

question: can i test this while someone holds the key in the on position if the clicking is still happening? does that count as the engine cranking? or do i somehow need to stop the click first (remove whatever is clicking from the circuit, although i am 99% sure it is the starter/solenoid that is clicking).
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post #17 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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thanks. i will try this.

is there an easy way to test the starter solenoid? i am pretty sure that's the problem (aside from the battery, which i think may have gotten fried when the starter crapped out... if that's possible).

Quote:
Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post
Dood, why you gotta' eliminate all the easy fixes?

If you're hip to your voltmeter, don't worry about voltage drop, but follow the voltage.

Park your negative lead on the negative post, then look for your battery voltage (I'm guessing 12.5-13.1V) at the positive post, then the near end of the cable, then the far end of the cable . . . if you're losing less than a couple tenths by the time you get to the starter, everything upstream is pretty OK.

If it looks like the positive side is making the trip with no significant loss, park the positive lead on the + terminal and cruise the ground side.

Sorry I don't have a magic bullet, but a voltmeter will help you earn the answer. Electrical frustrates the shit out of a lot of people, but just relax and be methodical. As long as it's in the "dumb" (non-electronic) side of things, a voltmeter will get you there.
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post #18 of 36 Old 06-25-2016, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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did a bit more research online and i am pretty sure that the clicking sound i am hearing is the bendix gear extending and retracting. but it is clearly not spinning. the solenoid is not the kind i am used to... it only has one post for the positive cable, and a wiring harness snaps into the solenoid. if i remove the starter, is it possible to jump this style solenoid to confirm that is the real problem?
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post #19 of 36 Old 06-26-2016, 03:00 AM
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Hey man.... sorry for not getting back to you. We had guests and kids running around everywhere plus I was outside grilling.

If that was the original battery out of your Odyssey then those are known to be weak too.

That clicking doesn't sound right. Does the Jeep battery start the minivan?

Anyway... when my starter failed, it failed mechanically. The nylon bendix flew apart after getting stuck again and putting it back together a couple of times, I just bought a new one with a lifetime guarantee from orielly.

With the dash lights cutting out and the clicking, it really does seem like a bad battery. They can short internally or get a dead cell or two. I think if you charge it and take it to an auto parts store they can load test it for you. I sold mine years ago otherwise I would say come get it.

The bendix is also a switch so when the plunger flings out the pinion gear the back end of it is a switch that makes contact and spin the starter motor. Unless it flies out all the way, there is no contact. I am suggesting that if you are sure the battery is good then something could be preventing the bendix from fully extending. If you feel there is reason to look here then you can do two things. Turn the key off and maybe even disconnect the battery as a precaution. Then get a socket and a 1/2" drive ratchet and turnover the motor by hand a little to rotate the flex plate a little. It would be a long shot but it might do it.

The next thing if you are sure the battery is good is to pull down the starter and bench check it. I had a video. I will try to repost in the morning.
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post #20 of 36 Old 06-26-2016, 07:04 AM
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Holy fucksticks! Replace the battery, THEN see if anything else is wrong. The battery is fubar, fix, move on. I'll bet a dollar the battery is the only problem.

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post #21 of 36 Old 06-26-2016, 08:35 AM
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Holy fucksticks! Replace the battery, THEN see if anything else is wrong. The battery is fubar, fix, move on. I'll bet a dollar the battery is the only problem.
I have had all kinds of crazy ass electrical problems, from clicking starters to strange dash lights, to CELs...........all fixed when I changed the battery. I had an Optima that gave me all sorts of weird symptoms that I fought for months. I finally shit canned it and never had another issue.
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post #22 of 36 Old 06-26-2016, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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i tried the battery from my wife's van and it didn't fix the problem. her battery is relatively new (replaced within the last year) and starts her van just fine. that's why i don't think the problem is just the battery.

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Originally Posted by ASSFROW View Post
Holy fucksticks! Replace the battery, THEN see if anything else is wrong. The battery is fubar, fix, move on. I'll bet a dollar the battery is the only problem.
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I have had all kinds of crazy ass electrical problems, from clicking starters to strange dash lights, to CELs...........all fixed when I changed the battery. I had an Optima that gave me all sorts of weird symptoms that I fought for months. I finally shit canned it and never had another issue.
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post #23 of 36 Old 06-26-2016, 09:36 AM
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I can try and stop by for a look later but here is the video of my starter where the bendix came apart.

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post #24 of 36 Old 06-26-2016, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boopiejones View Post
i tried the battery from my wife's van and it didn't fix the problem. her battery is relatively new (replaced within the last year) and starts her van just fine. that's why i don't think the problem is just the battery.
Well that sounds like it is not the battery. Did you try moving the flexplate a little and see it that helps at all? Or try hitting the starter with a dead blow hammer a couple of times. Sometimes that can free it up.

If you take the starter off, will AutoZone or Napa test it? Not sure, but I think they used to do that............maybe not anymore.
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post #25 of 36 Old 06-26-2016, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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where is the 1/2" drive located that allows me to manually turn the motor? it does sound like the bendix gear might be bouncing off the teeth of the gear on the motor, not allowing the switch to engage. total longshot, but i've tried a fresh battery and no one local has the starter i need so i might as well try this before ordering a starter online.


Quote:
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...
The bendix is also a switch so when the plunger flings out the pinion gear the back end of it is a switch that makes contact and spin the starter motor. Unless it flies out all the way, there is no contact. I am suggesting that if you are sure the battery is good then something could be preventing the bendix from fully extending. If you feel there is reason to look here then you can do two things. Turn the key off and maybe even disconnect the battery as a precaution. Then get a socket and a 1/2" drive ratchet and turnover the motor by hand a little to rotate the flex plate a little. It would be a long shot but it might do it.

The next thing if you are sure the battery is good is to pull down the starter and bench check it. I had a video. I will try to repost in the morning.
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