Red led above fuel gauge blinking. Will Not Start - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 04-06-2016, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Red led above fuel gauge blinking. Will Not Start

Hey everyone, I have '14 JK. I have made numerous upgrades and modification to her:
G2 front axle chromoly dana 44 Auborn Ected locker
Yukon Grizzly locker, rear
Metalcloak Gamechanger Lift
4.88 gears
Smitybilt front and rear XRC bumpers and XRC fenders
I bought this Jeep for one purpose, I know I could have gone a used rout, but I got what I wanted, but in doing this I voided the warranty. The problem I'm have is intermittent, sometimes she'll start, but this time she's not. I have read all the threads that have anything to do with this problem. What I need is a lot more detail. Like a wiring diagram. But if there's a way to disable this security system or to disable the majority of the electronics I am open to suggestions. Again a wiring diagram would be great. I can't hook to a computer because it wont start. I have made no upgrades or changes to my wiring.
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post #2 of 15 Old 04-07-2016, 06:46 AM
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Sounds like your talking about the red security light blinking and shutting down the engine when trying to start. I had to fight this same issue. Couple of things to try. Problem is the jeep does recognize the key anymore. The key has a chip in it that sends out a code to the wireless modulator in the jeep. From what I know you can not disable the security system since it is tied to everything else. You can try a few things to reset the computer and the key fob. First try replacing the battery in the key fob it may be dying, second try to disconnect the battery for about 15 min and try it again, third pull the m3 fuse out and plug it back in. I think it's the m3 might want to do a search to check. I eventually ended up finding my key fob was bad and replaced it and never had any issues since.
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post #3 of 15 Old 04-07-2016, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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No fob

One problem I dont have a key fob. This is why I can't understand why the security system is enabled. I have tried disconnecting the baterry and removing the fuse. The motor won't even turn over. I can hear relays clicking but nothing happens. The radiator fan does come on. I,ve looked at a simple wiring diagram for the start system and it seems from what little info was on it, that the temp sensors are in series with all the other switches. I have attached a volt meter to the starter solenoid and no power when I turn the switch. I'm going through every connection and terminal a little each day til I narrow this down. If only I could get a complete wiring diagram. I know I can buy a maintenance manual for $200+, but I've read it doesn't go into much detail.
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post #4 of 15 Old 04-07-2016, 01:04 PM
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MY ram did the same thing last year. I had to tow it to the dealer for a computer reflash. IT was caused by a dead battery. Have you had in battery issues lately?

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post #5 of 15 Old 04-11-2016, 11:14 AM
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Question No Key Fob

Quote:
Originally Posted by ETNJEEPER View Post
One problem I dont have a key fob.
How can you not have a key fob? It's part of the key..... and what causes that red light to come on.....


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post #6 of 15 Old 04-11-2016, 11:44 AM
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OP, let us know when you find out how to fix it (and maybe what caused it).

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Originally Posted by jacktuttle View Post
How can you not have a key fob? It's part of the key..... and what causes that red light to come on.....

Easy, I have no key fob. I have a plain jane key (no lock/unlock/alarm buttons).

Of course, the only option my Jeep has is a hard top.

NDTguy

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post #7 of 15 Old 04-11-2016, 12:13 PM
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Had this no start happen to me out of nowhere (and in the middle of...). Finally decided to pull both battery cables off for a few minutes and then reconnected them. Started right up after. Happened one other time a few days later. Same process. It has not happened again since. ???? That was 18 months ago.

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post #8 of 15 Old 04-28-2016, 01:12 PM
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A FIX for this issue

Maybe this will help some of you. I have had this same problem with my 08 JKU for almost a year. It started with just the red security light blinking at random times. I noticed it was more frequent on hot days. Then I started to have a problem with my key fob not always locking or unlocking the doors. I tried both fobs and new batteries with no difference. The last few months I have had starting issues. Again, these where more prevalent when it was a hot day or if I went to the store and came back out. I already had a new starter and a new battery in the Jeep so I knew that wasn't the problem. Last week I literally had 2 days when I had to sit and try to start the Jeep for 15 minutes before it would crank all the way and start.

The more I thought about the times this happens it started to point me to a wiring issue. I have 142k on the Jeep and live in IL so corrosion and rust are common.

This last weekend I decided to take a day and check all the power and ground cables from the battery, fuse box and ecm/pcm. I found that the power cable from the battery to the fuse box had some corrosion at the fuse box connection so I cleaned it up really well. I also found that the ground cable from the battery to fender had some corrosion at the post on the fender so I cleaned it up. Then I proceed to check the other small ground wires from the fuse box and ecm/pcm to the fenders and found 1 a little loose and all a little corroded. I cleaned them all and replaced them.

Additionally, I was a little surprised at the lack of ground straps. I added a new ground wire from the battery to the pass side fender. I also added on from the DS fender to the alternator bracket on the engine and a third from the DS fender down to 1 of the starter mounting bolts. I used 6 gauge wire for the additional grounds.

I have gone all week now without a single problem. No red light blinking. All my key fobs work and lock/unlock with no problem. The Jeep starts right away and seems to run smoother.

All of you that are having this issue should check your wires. The nuts that tighten the small grounds to the fenders are a 10 mil wrench. The power to your fuse box is a 13 mil. My starter bolts are 18 mil. Don't forget to check both ends of the short wire that grounds the ecm/pcm to your DS fender.

Hope this helps you all. Let me know if you have any questions.

Just for kicks I also talked to the service manager at the Jeep dealer by me after I fixed everything. He said "Oh yeah, there is a service bulletin to add 5 ground wires to the Wrangler. We can do it for about 200$." I laughed and told him I already figured that out.

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post #9 of 15 Old 12-15-2017, 09:45 AM
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I actually figured how to get the Jeep going on this by

1. Step out
2. Double click key lock fob
3. Wait for the red blinking security indicator to shut off
4. Use the actual key to unlock it and the Jeep should crank right up

keep in mind you'll have to do this til the end of time when you have this issue other than that it will crank up great for a while without any issues.
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post #10 of 15 Old 12-16-2017, 02:12 AM
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Looks like I'm about to go ground wire hunting! I was on my way to Hidden Falls Adventure Park a month and a half ago and I noticed the same little light flashing at me. It lasted about 2 minutes before going away completely. Haven't seen it again since. My Sahara didn't come with electric door locks, so it would either have to be something loose/corroded, an issue with the security module, or the chip in the key is going bad.

Current vehicles:
2007 Sahara 2-Door
5.38 gears
Trussed, sleeved, gusseted Dana 44 front w/ factory Rubi locker and RCV shafts
Stock rear Rubi Dana 44 with Auburn Ected locker w/ 35 spline chromoly shafts
6 Speed
2.5 Rock Krawler X Factor System w/ Bilstein 5100 shocks
17X9.5 Spyderlock Beadlocks
37X12.50R17 Nitto Trail Grapplers
F&R AEV Bumpers w/ AEV rear tire carrier
JCR Stage 2 rock rails
Warn Zeon 10-S winch

2010 Jeep SRT8 w/ 440 stroker making 550 whp
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post #11 of 15 Old 12-16-2017, 09:03 AM
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The easiest way to determine if it is the key itself is to use your other key. Put the suspect one in the house and use one of your spares. If you only have one key then you are a dumbass. You should have a minimum of three. One for use, one in the house and one hidden inside your Jeep in case you lose one off roading.

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post #12 of 15 Old 12-16-2017, 10:06 AM
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These systems are voltage dependent , so the above mentioned posts to grounds are valid .
But if variations in voltages are present IE: bad connections on the hot conductors or connectors to the device connected to are corroded or are not complete , you can experience the same conditions .

When I have seen this happen it is usually been my experience that the battery itself is weak or that the connections at the battery are suspect .
At other times the alternator has caused voltage fluctuations that have been the cause .

The reason that people usually disconnect the battery and let it sit , then have success with this issue is they then make better connections at the battery , then TA-DA the problem goes away , simply look for bad connections all around , then see if the situation persists .

In one case I found that the starter was faulty and caused voltage spikes in the system , leading to the security system to believe that the Jeep was somehow being compromised .

Good luck and report back your findings , your experience may help others .
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post #13 of 15 Old 12-16-2017, 01:26 PM
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Well, that would certainly make sense now! I keep my battery connected to my Battery Tender Plus when I'm not driving it. I also have an 8 month old Optima Yellow top, so I know that wouldn't be it. However...the alternator is going to be my culprit!! My light was flashing at me on a Friday evening. Sunday morning, the alternator crapped out on me. For the record, if you ever go through that...make sure you call ahead to make sure the alternator is in stock! I had a helluva time trying to find one. There is every kind of part store in Marble Falls, and no one had it. Thank god I called ahead! I had AAA tow me 45 miles to the closest town that had it, and there was only one place that did. It was in the opposite direction of Marble Falls. The first 100 miles is free but you only get 1 tow, so it would've ended up costing me to have to get towed to another town. Seeing as how we have the same engine as minivans and the sheer popularity of the JK/JKU's, you would think more places would have that alternator in stock.



Quote:
Originally Posted by un lupus View Post
These systems are voltage dependent , so the above mentioned posts to grounds are valid .
But if variations in voltages are present IE: bad connections on the hot conductors or connectors to the device connected to are corroded or are not complete , you can experience the same conditions .

When I have seen this happen it is usually been my experience that the battery itself is weak or that the connections at the battery are suspect .
At other times the alternator has caused voltage fluctuations that have been the cause .

The reason that people usually disconnect the battery and let it sit , then have success with this issue is they then make better connections at the battery , then TA-DA the problem goes away , simply look for bad connections all around , then see if the situation persists .

In one case I found that the starter was faulty and caused voltage spikes in the system , leading to the security system to believe that the Jeep was somehow being compromised .

Good luck and report back your findings , your experience may help others .

Current vehicles:
2007 Sahara 2-Door
5.38 gears
Trussed, sleeved, gusseted Dana 44 front w/ factory Rubi locker and RCV shafts
Stock rear Rubi Dana 44 with Auburn Ected locker w/ 35 spline chromoly shafts
6 Speed
2.5 Rock Krawler X Factor System w/ Bilstein 5100 shocks
17X9.5 Spyderlock Beadlocks
37X12.50R17 Nitto Trail Grapplers
F&R AEV Bumpers w/ AEV rear tire carrier
JCR Stage 2 rock rails
Warn Zeon 10-S winch

2010 Jeep SRT8 w/ 440 stroker making 550 whp
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post #14 of 15 Old 12-16-2017, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsukey View Post
Well, that would certainly make sense now! I keep my battery connected to my Battery Tender Plus when I'm not driving it. I also have an 8 month old Optima Yellow top, so I know that wouldn't be it. However...the alternator is going to be my culprit!! My light was flashing at me on a Friday evening. Sunday morning, the alternator crapped out on me. For the record, if you ever go through that...make sure you call ahead to make sure the alternator is in stock! I had a helluva time trying to find one. There is every kind of part store in Marble Falls, and no one had it. Thank god I called ahead! I had AAA tow me 45 miles to the closest town that had it, and there was only one place that did. It was in the opposite direction of Marble Falls. The first 100 miles is free but you only get 1 tow, so it would've ended up costing me to have to get towed to another town. Seeing as how we have the same engine as minivans and the sheer popularity of the JK/JKU's, you would think more places would have that alternator in stock.
Well I hope I don't start a shitstorm here but Optima Batteries are Crap , at one time they may have been pretty good , but no more .
They are now made in Mexico and their reliability is questionable In MY HUMBLE Opinion .
When I see one anymore , and there is a electrical issue combined with a Can-Bus related malfunction , that is my first task is to remove that battery , in one particular event the starter and the battery because of age and a battery with a faulty cell , resulted in a low voltage situation that also took out the alternator .
It also resulted in other problems that I wont go into , but suspect the Optima as to the culprit .
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post #15 of 15 Old 12-16-2017, 04:36 PM
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No offense taken. I was having an electrical draining issue before that I suspected may be the battery earlier this year. I had the battery replaced under warranty 8 months ago. As it turns out, it was the factory navigation that was draining the battery. Confirmed by the multimeter leakdown test. I keep a close eye on the voltmeter on my auto meter now. It reads perfectly normal. I run an Optima Red Top in my supercharged 3rd gen 4Runner as well to keep up with the JL Audio 750/1 amp. No problems whatsoever.



Quote:
Originally Posted by slick pickel View Post
Well I hope I don't start a shitstorm here but Optima Batteries are Crap , at one time they may have been pretty good , but no more .
They are now made in Mexico and their reliability is questionable In MY HUMBLE Opinion .
When I see one anymore , and there is a electrical issue combined with a Can-Bus related malfunction , that is my first task is to remove that battery , in one particular event the starter and the battery because of age and a battery with a faulty cell , resulted in a low voltage situation that also took out the alternator .
It also resulted in other problems that I wont go into , but suspect the Optima as to the culprit .

Current vehicles:
2007 Sahara 2-Door
5.38 gears
Trussed, sleeved, gusseted Dana 44 front w/ factory Rubi locker and RCV shafts
Stock rear Rubi Dana 44 with Auburn Ected locker w/ 35 spline chromoly shafts
6 Speed
2.5 Rock Krawler X Factor System w/ Bilstein 5100 shocks
17X9.5 Spyderlock Beadlocks
37X12.50R17 Nitto Trail Grapplers
F&R AEV Bumpers w/ AEV rear tire carrier
JCR Stage 2 rock rails
Warn Zeon 10-S winch

2010 Jeep SRT8 w/ 440 stroker making 550 whp
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