sPOD, 3-Way & LED Backup Lights - Help Needed - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 03-09-2016, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
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Question sPOD, 3-Way & LED Backup Lights - Help Needed

So I've spent many hours searching for a good answer and have come up short so I'm hoping someone here can help me. I'm have a sPOD installed in my 2012 Wrangler next week along with some LED lights. The shop has done a lot of sPODs and LED backup lights but not how I want them to work. I need to give them a wiring diagram so they get it hooked up right. Can someone help, please?

I want to swap out one standard sPOD two-way switch with a new three-way switch (ON-OFF-ON) and have it operate like the following.
  1. The top ON position should turn on the backup/reverse LEDs regardless of the OEM reverse lights or transmission gear. Forced on if you will.
  2. The middle OFF position should turnoff the LED backup/reverse lights completely.
  3. The bottom ON position should allow the LED backup/reverse lights on come on with the OEM backup lights when I switch into reverse.

Post #16 from the thread below sounds like it is just want I want but there's no specifics on what OTRATTW DSDT switch I need or how to wire it up. As I understand it, with the right DSDT switch in the sPOD the wiring is pretty straight forward. Unfortunately, all the drawings I've found get way too complicated with multiple relays, multiple switches, etc.

www jkowners com/forum/showthread.php?t=85337

Can anyone help with a diagram for what I'm looking for?
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post #2 of 18 Old 03-09-2016, 10:09 PM
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Contact sPod, they are great at providing support with their units.

Personally I think thats a lot of effort and money for something with very little benefit. Especially when you can just keep it simple with the ON-OFF 2-position switch you already have in place.

My understanding is you want to have it ON, OFF, or ON-when in Reverse. It's too easy to just reach up and press the button. I just put LED's in my rear bumper and they are way too bright to get away as "reverse" lights.
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post #3 of 18 Old 03-09-2016, 11:32 PM
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There are a few ways to do what you want to do, but they all take a bit of work - be ready to pay a few extra hours of shop labor if you're making someone else figure it out and piece it all together.

One method uses 2 relays & 2 switches (sPOD or other):
  • 1 relay controlled by an on-off switch, as a master kill switch for your aux reverse lights
  • 1 relay fed (through diodes) by your reverse light wiring and by a second switch

If you really want it as an on-off-on rocker in the sPOD, it can be done (I've considered it), but you have to "hack up" the sPOD wiring:
One sPOD relay fed by on-off-on Carling switch wired backwards: the center contact triggers the relay, and the 2 outer contacts are fed by a fused positive and by reverse light wiring (again, both through diodes).
Note: that^ will leave your rocker switch light not working (also fixable, but fuggit, I'm going to sleep).

EASIEST OPTION: PUT THE MUFUGGER ON A SWITCH AND CALL IT GOOD.

Also, pretty much everything TJT said

EDIT: a guy in the thread you linked did exactly what you're looking to do, and explained it better than I did:
Quote:
Originally Posted by oO_Rogue_Oo View Post
I've done pretty much exactly what the OP is talking about without an additional relay and no need for diodes. I talked to John at sPOD about this and he told me that the sPOD had diodes built into the board and none would be needed. Second I had Jim at OTRATTW ship me a DPDT switch to fit the sPOD and had the rocker lazer cut to match my others.

Tap into the reverse light wire where ever you feel comfortable doing it. If you're not very familar with wiring you can just do it at the taillight where it is very easy to identify. Run that wire to the sPOD bank of switches where you have replaced the SPST stock switch that controls your backup light with the DPDT switch. Wire the switch normally on one side (as it came from sPOD) and on the other side of the switch plug in the reverse light tap that comes from the taillight and jumper the neutral side (if I remember correctly it will be the color coded wire. Green is ground for the switch illumination, red is the hot side and the nuertal will be another color like gray or yellow etc) of the curcuit from the other side of the switch to the neutral lug on this side.

What this will do is use the sPOD relay (so no diodes needed) for both sides of the switch (on with reverse lights and manual on) and use the reverse light curcuit as a trigger. This works very well; I have been running it this way for quite some time now with no issues and it is very simple to do.

It is the first switch in the picture; up is manual on and down is on with reverse lights; center position is off



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Last edited by ExWrench; 03-09-2016 at 11:40 PM.
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post #4 of 18 Old 03-10-2016, 04:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJT View Post
Contact sPod, they are great at providing support with their units.

Personally I think thats a lot of effort and money for something with very little benefit. Especially when you can just keep it simple with the ON-OFF 2-position switch you already have in place.

My understanding is you want to have it ON, OFF, or ON-when in Reverse. It's too easy to just reach up and press the button. I just put LED's in my rear bumper and they are way too bright to get away as "reverse" lights.
For me, the effort and expense is going to be worth it. I'm also planning to do the same setup on my front driving lights so they are tied into the high beams. Yes, I could certainly hit an additional switch for both backing up and turning on the aux high beams. But, I'd rather have it be automatic so there's one step instead of two. On an average day I backup in the dark at least twice and turn on my high beams a half dozen times or so. I'm sure, for myself at least, that I wouldn't use either set of auxiliary lights if it requires flipping a switch twice every time (on then off again). But, that's just me.

I got the Rigid SR-M backup light kit so the output is fairly low, as compared to other LEDs or even their SR-Q kit, and the lights have a diffused lens. I'm hoping it will be good as is but I also figure I can also tame it down some if needed with a smoke vinyl lens cover. What model lights did you put into your bumper that are too bright?
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post #5 of 18 Old 03-10-2016, 05:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post
There are a few ways to do what you want to do, but they all take a bit of work - be ready to pay a few extra hours of shop labor if you're making someone else figure it out and piece it all together.

One method uses 2 relays & 2 switches (sPOD or other):
  • 1 relay controlled by an on-off switch, as a master kill switch for your aux reverse lights
  • 1 relay fed (through diodes) by your reverse light wiring and by a second switch

If you really want it as an on-off-on rocker in the sPOD, it can be done (I've considered it), but you have to "hack up" the sPOD wiring:
One sPOD relay fed by on-off-on Carling switch wired backwards: the center contact triggers the relay, and the 2 outer contacts are fed by a fused positive and by reverse light wiring (again, both through diodes).
Note: that^ will leave your rocker switch light not working (also fixable, but fuggit, I'm going to sleep).

EASIEST OPTION: PUT THE MUFUGGER ON A SWITCH AND CALL IT GOOD.

Also, pretty much everything TJT said

EDIT: a guy in the thread you linked did exactly what you're looking to do, and explained it better than I did:
Yea, that thread and many many others have people doing exactly what I'm looking to do. The problem I'm running into is that there are a lot of options for DPDT/SPDT switches and lots of different ways to wire it and jumper them up. Not being an electrical guy taking generalizations from the threads and putting them into an detailed and usable drawing is proving to be challenging. I was hoping that with some many people doing it, someone might have the details done already. If not, I guess I'll continue down my path to learn it and put together a drawing.
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post #6 of 18 Old 03-10-2016, 07:31 AM
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The easiest way to accomplish what you're trying to do will be to use diodes. This will keep the current from one circuit from backfeeding into the other circuit.

I'll draw up a diagram later and post it here.

Chase

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post #7 of 18 Old 03-10-2016, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Here are two diagrams, albeit very simplified, of what I was thinking based on what I've read and people's input. The first diagram is the standard sPOD setup with only the sPOD controlling the aux lights.

The second diagram is what I think I need to do to accomplish what I want.
1. Replace the stock sPOD switch with an ON-OFF-ON SPDT.
2. Run one wire from the OEM reverse lights circuit to the sPOD switches. (I don't think the diode is really needed but might be a safety net.)
2. Use the one input/common terminal as an output instead running it to the sPOD source box and relay. This is really already done by the stock sPOD wiring so I just need to move from input to output at the switch.
3. Use the two output/dedicated terminals as inputs instead with one from the sPOD and the other from the OEM reverse circuit.

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post #8 of 18 Old 03-10-2016, 02:02 PM
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You are correct that diodes can be skipped if the 2 power wires are never connected to each other.
(I'm not falling asleep now, so shit's a bit more clear ).

What you're describing will work. Only drawback is you can't have switch indicator light(s).
Here's another way (refer to pic below) that lets you have indicator light(s) on your switch :

On a DPDT switch as shown -
  • + from sPOD and from reverse lights go to 2 and 5 (isolated from each other)
  • Cap off or ignore 3 & 4 (don't connect either to 1,6,2, or 5)
  • Connect 1, 6, and your output wire to the sPOD relay
If you tear into the switch and move the switch lamp power from 3 to 6, both switch lights can work.
If you're cool with a single indicator lamp, skip the above sentence and save yourself the aggravation.


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post #9 of 18 Old 03-10-2016, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MontelG View Post
For me, the effort and expense is going to be worth it. I'm also planning to do the same setup on my front driving lights so they are tied into the high beams. Yes, I could certainly hit an additional switch for both backing up and turning on the aux high beams. But, I'd rather have it be automatic so there's one step instead of two. On an average day I backup in the dark at least twice and turn on my high beams a half dozen times or so. I'm sure, for myself at least, that I wouldn't use either set of auxiliary lights if it requires flipping a switch twice every time (on then off again). But, that's just me.

I got the Rigid SR-M backup light kit so the output is fairly low, as compared to other LEDs or even their SR-Q kit, and the lights have a diffused lens. I'm hoping it will be good as is but I also figure I can also tame it down some if needed with a smoke vinyl lens cover. What model lights did you put into your bumper that are too bright?
Please, don't let my thoughts detour you. I actually think you're on to something here. Im interested to see how it turns out.

My bumper lights have been burnt out for over a year, so I squared-off the cutouts and put some $60 LED flush-mount cubes in.

Please excuse the swiss-cheese looking fenders and zip-tied tail lights. My new corners are at powder coat this week.
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post #10 of 18 Old 03-11-2016, 08:57 AM
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If you use this switch you have independent lights. This would eliminate the need for a diode and only require a wire run from backup lights + to the switch and a few jumpers at the switch.

EDIT: Original schematic did not work correctly.

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post #11 of 18 Old 03-11-2016, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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I'm getting it narrowed down. I've got the big picture figured out. Now I just need to determine the stock sPOD switch's setup and determine how to hook up the new ON-OFF-ON SPDT switch.
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post #12 of 18 Old 03-11-2016, 12:17 PM
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My schematic would still require a diode.

Updated new schematic. Requires no diodes. Switch in top ON position, lights on. Off position, Lights off. Bottom On, Lights turn on when reverse lights on (led on when reverse lights activated). You can change to LED on all the time in bottom position by disconnecting #10 and jumper #10 with #1/


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post #13 of 18 Old 03-14-2016, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cduemig View Post
My schematic would still require a diode.

Updated new schematic. Requires no diodes. Switch in top ON position, lights on. Off position, Lights off. Bottom On, Lights turn on when reverse lights on (led on when reverse lights activated). You can change to LED on all the time in bottom position by disconnecting #10 and jumper #10 with #1/
Thanks!! That's very helpful. I've got SPDT switches instead of DPDT but your drawing really helped. I think I've got the wiring figured out, if my assumptions on the current setup is right, for replacing two existing switch new ON-OFF-ON SPDT switches. The lower light will come on with the button only and not when the switch is in the lower ON position, which is fine. The upper switch will come on when the switch is in the upper ON position. The upper ON position will turn the Aux lights on manually and the lower ON position will allow them to be trigger with either the reverse light or high beam circuits. In the middle OFF position they wan't come on no matter what.
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post #14 of 18 Old 03-14-2016, 12:09 PM
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Why not just use a SPST switch with an independent light on the upper and lower. The sPod switches are using the positive wire for the trigger. Using a switch like this couldn't you wire the upper light, and switch the same as the sPod is out of the box, and just run the trigger for the backup lights/high beams to pin 3? In your drawing I would run the jumper between pin 8 and 2 so the upper light comes on when the switch is flipped up. You drawing would have the upper light on any time the switch it triggered to be on (lower position, and reverse lights on).

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post #15 of 18 Old 03-14-2016, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinJon View Post
Why not just use a SPST switch with an independent light on the upper and lower. The sPod switches are using the positive wire for the trigger. Using a switch like this couldn't you wire the upper light, and switch the same as the sPod is out of the box, and just run the trigger for the backup lights/high beams to pin 3? In your drawing I would run the jumper between pin 8 and 2 so the upper light comes on when the switch is flipped up. You drawing would have the upper light on any time the switch it triggered to be on (lower position, and reverse lights on).
The schematic you sent is the same DPST switch I'm using. I'm just reversing the inputs and outputs already in my drawing. The actual switch is designed pins 1 and 3 to be outputs and 2 to be input. By reversing them and using them as inputs I'm able to have the sPOD positive feed the up ON position and the reverse light circuits trigger the bottom ON position with the new output on 2 going to the sPOD relay in the source box. Does that sound right?
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post #16 of 18 Old 03-18-2016, 04:33 AM
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The switch configuration shown is DPST (Poles are inputs to the circuits and Throw is the number of output circuits). The circuit would work except the push button. I'm assuming you want it to be able to manually trigger the lights temporarily while in the down position. They are currently just going to the bottom switch led and not activating the load. Chhange to pins 3 vice 10 or jumper if you want the light but it would probably be cleaner since then both lights light up for push button activation and seems pointless since you're pushing the button you don't need an indicator telling you you're pushing it as well as lights on. You also need a SPDT switch (or diodes, or two push buttons) or else you'll make both loads turn on for either trigger (if both in the down position either reverse lights or high beams will turn on both aux lights). I'm also assuming these are different loads? I'm presuming backup lights and additional front lights?

Without the push button you wouldn't need diodes. The diodes are protecting the SPOD circuit from trying to power the reverse lights / high beam lights through the tiny SPOD relay + wire.

I'd get rid of the push button all together unless you have a specific need. If you need to turn on the lights you can flip the switch to the on position.

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post #17 of 18 Old 03-18-2016, 08:35 AM
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Another fun twist, the headlights use PWM instead of a separate high beam, low beam wire. That would require a relay with a parallel capacitor and series resister to set trigger or other relay triggered by PWM.

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post #18 of 18 Old 03-29-2016, 05:05 PM
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Ok, so this isn't really the same thing, but it's honestly the closest thing I could find to what I'm wanting to do. I, too, am wanting to add a three way switch, but for a different reason. I plan on installing aftermarket heated seats, and wanted to wire them to the sPod. However, I didn't want to lose the Hi/Lo settings, and thought I could add a three way On/off/on switch that functioned as Lo/off/hi. Is this possible? Which switch would I need to purchase and how would I wire it?

Sorry I know this is a lot to ask, and only vaguely related to this thread, but y'all seem to know what you're talking about with the three way switches. Thanks!
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