Factory headlights are a joke.
I've tried LED replacement bulbs in stock housings- output was alright, poor beam pattern.
I had the Lantsun 13 LED Headlights
- not too bad, good output, alright beam pattern (had hotspots), but way better than factory (Beachbound is getting those bad boys)
I wanted a light with a great pattern, awesome light penetration, and of course, badass looking. Cue the holy grail of lighting
; HIDs through a projector housing. While there are some awesome retailers that sell some kits ready to go, I wasn't prepared to pay $600-$700 for their housings, plus, I like doing things myself!
I ended up getting an AWESOME set of headlights with EXCELLENT light output, with top of the line components, for roughly $300-$350. You will not be disappointed with the light output and its a fun little project to undertake. The following are some light output pictures. (Note that my projects need to be aligned and tweaked just a little bit, but are pretty close. It's not really noticeable when driving, but when you are looking at a wall or back of a car, you'll notice it until it's aligned/tweaked)
Drool a little bit...
I was able to knock this project out over the course of a few days, the most time consuming part was painting the housings and making slowing perfecting the size of the hole in the housing.
-OEM JK Housings - $FREE
-JK Horizontal Headlight Adjustment Screws
-Epoxy of your choice; I chose a quick set JB weld - ~$10
-RTV/Silicon Sealant - ~$10
-x2 PVC 1.5" to 2" coupler (I believe this was the size, you get the idea) - ~$5 (Buy an extra in case you mess up, they're cheap)
-x2 Large washers to glue to the PVC (Can't remember the exact size, but the OD should be about 1-1/2", ID should be that of the projector mounting shaft) - ~$3
-Dremel with appropriate attachments for PVC/plastic housing
-Paint of your choice (I used satin black Krylon fusion)
-Safety Equipment (Face mask, safety glasses, you will make a TON, like a lot, of fine dust)
-The Retrofit Source Morimoto H1 Universal Kit
---Mini Gatling Shrouds
---55W XB55 Morimoto Ballasts
---I went with 6500k bulbs due to the 55W kit; it's has a tint of blue and it fine, but will try the 5500K next time for a more pure white
---IMPORTANT: If you have a 2013+ with the CANBUS, call them and get the MOPAR Bi-Xenon harness; it's not listed as an option, but they'll hook you up
---I got the black sealant; you will have a ton left over
---The kit is all Morimoto (excellent quality stuff)
I'm going to skip the removal of the headlights as it's a VERY straight forward process(5 push pins, disco mark lights, pull) If you can't figure that bit out, then I don't suggest taking on this project.
Bake each headlight housing for 8-10 minutes @ 285*F; wearing gloves and using a scraper/screwdriver, carefully pry the lens off of the housing, taking care to not chip the housing. Slowly pry your way around the housing and they'll come right off. If you have a lot of resistance, throw it back in the oven. I highly recommend doing this one at a time so that you can take your time and not risk melting your housing if the first housing takes longer than expected.
Remove the reflector bulb cap from the housing using a Torx bit; throw this wherever your want, you will not need it any more.
Time to back the mounting platform for our projectors; this is where the PVC coupler comes into play! Cut (sand with belt sander for perfectly flat surface) down the small size of the PVC coupler. There is a point where the inside of the coupler starts to bevel into the large side -- cut it down to this point. You can see the point I'm talking about in the following picture. On the large side, I ground off the width of one of our washers; reference the sharpie marks on the large side. (Easiest way to do this is put the washer next to the PVC, mark, rotate, mark, do this as many times as you want so you have reference points to make sure it's a level grind.
Next you need to cut a relief for your Bi-beam actuator wires. Make sure that you cut a slot big enough to get the connector through as well.
Set these aside when cut down.
How the washer will sit on top of the PVC coupler:
Take a deep breath, grab a beer, shit is about to get real.
It's time to cut up your housings. This process is going to be trial and error, slowly grinding away material until the projector sits far enough in the housing to clear the lens. I started back whacking the H13 bulb platform off with a dremel bit, don't worry about being super precise, this is only the beginning. From there, I recommend using a belt sander to evenly take down the material until the opening in the reflector matches the ID of the 2" side of the PVC coupling(NOTE: You might have have some points where the hole is bigger than the PVC). Note that due to the shape of the housing, the PVC coupling will NOT make fully contact on all points of the housing so there will be gaps. You didn't mess up, that's just how it will be. We will fill those in later. I also beveled down the inside of the housing to contour to the projector, this will gain a good bit of clearance.
Before calculated molestation:
Making some progress:
Test the PVC housing, washer, and projectors into the housing. The projector nut and housing will clamp everything together while you test fit the lens onto the housing. You want to have about 1/4" of clearance between the projector lens and housing lens. Keep reverting back to Step 4 until you have the required clearance. Slowly remove material, check, rinse, repeat. NOTE: Make sure you account for the silicone washer that will go between the PVC and projector.
When you're happy with how the projectors fit into the housing and have proper clearance, it's time to epoxy everything together. Because there are gaps, I covered the gap between the PVC and housing with tape from the inside. This will keep the epoxy from leaking through and gluing the projector to the housing. I don't have a picture of it, but it should make sense when it comes time. Use a narrow tape and tape vertically, not a continuous piece around the gap. Go all the way around the housing, even if there's not a gap; it's cheap insurance.
Time to glue;
The best way to accomplish this is to put it all together, clamping with the projector nut like when you were test fitting. MAKE SURE THAT YOU INCLUDE THE KEYED WASHER(small one in the kit) BETWEEN THE BIG WASHER AND NUT! It is important that you align the key with the top of the housing so that your beam is level. Let your epoxy set up a little bit so that it won't run. Be liberal with the epoxy, extra won't hurt. Glue to PVC to the housing, the big washer to the PVC, and the small keyed washer to the big washer.
Let the epoxy set up overnight. If you're going to paint, then do so after the epoxy is set up. Also paint your shrouds if desired at this point. Make sure you rough up all surfaces with the scotchbite pad. I used a satin black. Go have a beer, you're done for the night. :wootrock: (I don't have any pictures between epoxy and paint)