Daymaker style headlights and lighter questions - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 01-20-2016, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Daymaker style headlights and lighter questions

Anyone here running the daymaker headlights? I am running the original version on my Harley and love them and really need to upgrade my headlights from these horrible stock units. I can justify spending $600+ on the JW's and figured this might be the way to go and a nice compromise. After doing a search it seems like most in the group are running the JW 8700's but hopefully someone has experience with these on a Jeep.

My next question has to do with light bars and mounts for the JKU. This too is on my upgrade list but I have two concerns. I don't want to add a ton of added noise or whistling and cost. I don't want to spend a huge amount on these either as far as brand. The local 4x4 shop suggested running a light bar on the inside of the JK windshield and sealing it somehow so the light goes out and not in the cab. I'm open to one that mounts on bumper, hood, or even the windshield area if I an figure out the best way to not make a lot of extra noise.

Any suggestions?

2010 JKU, RK 3.5 short arm, Fox reservoir shocks and 2.0 steering stabilizer, 37"deegan 38 tires, Trektop Pro, Arias flat fenders
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post #2 of 29 Old 02-13-2016, 10:10 PM
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You will spend less money in the long run by just getting better headlights.
I have the HID's from TRS. And besides rock lights, there really isn't a need for more forward lighting.
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post #3 of 29 Old 02-13-2016, 10:52 PM
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i got the hella e code lenses, with 100/80w H4 bulbs and susquehanna harness.

you can buy the complete kit from susquehanna mototsports for about $220, or get it for a bit less if you shop around for deals. this combo works great and the plus side is that bulb replacements are cheap and easy to find (although i've had mine for well over a year and they are still going strong)

i got a cheap 20" light bar on amazon and it's been awesome.
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post #4 of 29 Old 02-14-2016, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer View Post
You will spend less money in the long run by just getting better headlights.
I have the HID's from TRS. And besides rock lights, there really isn't a need for more forward lighting.
Agree I have a retrofitted HID projectors in one jeep and the sealed 7s in the other from TRS and the light output is worth it !
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post #5 of 29 Old 02-14-2016, 11:02 AM
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Yeah, I have the Sealed 7's.
They really do about as good as you can expect from a street legal light could possibly do.
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post #6 of 29 Old 02-14-2016, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boopiejones View Post
i got the hella e code lenses, with 100/80w H4 bulbs and susquehanna harness.

you can buy the complete kit from susquehanna mototsports for about $220, or get it for a bit less if you shop around for deals. this combo works great and the plus side is that bulb replacements are cheap and easy to find (although i've had mine for well over a year and they are still going strong)

i got a cheap 20" light bar on amazon and it's been awesome
.
^X2 : it seems boopiejones & I have pretty much the same lighting going on; slight difference being I am using Delta e-Code lenses with Bosch 100/65w H4s & the susquehanna harness. One of the same ip68 20" elCheapOChineseO LED ( brighter than the damned sun w/ 24 3w diodes + it's continuing to prove that the high-end branded LEDs are the exact same diodes but have housings assembled in the US, they're given a classy sticker or brand logo and marked way the heck up in price ...) ) ;
I replaced my thrice smashed-out OEM fogs with some eSpec 4" lenses and OSRAM 100W H3 bulbs in the ExpeditionOne BasicDXs wingpods then two 3300 lm 2X10w CREE spot LEDs on the pillarguardz.
Suffice to say, I can see very far in the distance up to the edge of the front superbly well compared to the stock lighting & I've spent a very nominal amount of money to do so.


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post #7 of 29 Old 02-14-2016, 10:13 PM
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What is the set up you guys are running for the sealed 7? As in ballasts, bulbs, ect. And how long do they last? Any issues with delay or flickering?

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post #8 of 29 Old 02-14-2016, 10:21 PM
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I am mildly amused by guys who still stand behind dinosaur technology on a 45k Jeep with 10k in upgrades. Then cheap out on lighting because they don't want to spend any money.

Halogen -
Pros: Decent output and color temperature. Cheap to replace. Reliable.

Cons: Cheap. Lowest output of any technology available. Piss poor color temperature for critical activities like night wheeling anywhere but flat ground. Large current draw once you leave stock wattages meaning more load on your charging system and battery.

LED -
Pros: Lifespan second to none. Better color tenperatures especially when using true 5K chips. Second best output of the available technologies out there. Super low current draw saving juice for other accessories. Reliable. Instant on.

Cons: Expensive in comparison to Halogen and HID. Not capable of generating enough heat to melt snow. Finnicky with certain vehicles with PWM because they present no load.

HID-

Pros: Best light output period. Choice of color temperatures. Reliable. Fairly affordable if you do your own retrofit. Moderate current draw that is far lower than halogen but still higher than LED during warm up only.

Cons: Warm up delay until full bright. Some experience required in installing and tuning systems such as projectors. Components aren't on the shelf everywhere.

I had the S7's, still hand down the best headlight I have ever owned and blew away dinosaur halogen and LED comparable units. Even the famed JW Speaker 8700J. Just my opinion from my fairly vast experience with lighting. YMMV.

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post #9 of 29 Old 02-14-2016, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCTAZ View Post
I am mildly amused by guys who still stand behind dinosaur technology on a 45k Jeep with 10k in upgrades. Then cheap out on lighting because they don't want to spend any money.

Halogen -
Pros: Decent output and color temperature. Cheap to replace. Reliable.

Cons: Cheap. Lowest output of any technology available. Piss poor color temperature for critical activities like night wheeling anywhere but flat ground. Large current draw once you leave stock wattages meaning more load on your charging system and battery.

LED -
Pros: Lifespan second to none. Better color tenperatures especially when using true 5K chips. Second best output of the available technologies out there. Super low current draw saving juice for other accessories. Reliable. Instant on.

Cons: Expensive in comparison to Halogen and HID. Not capable of generating enough heat to melt snow. Finnicky with certain vehicles with PWM because they present no load.

HID-

Pros: Best light output period. Choice of color temperatures. Reliable. Fairly affordable if you do your own retrofit. Moderate current draw that is far lower than halogen but still higher than LED during warm up only.

Cons: Warm up delay until full bright. Some experience required in installing and tuning systems such as projectors. Components aren't on the shelf everywhere.

I had the S7's, still hand down the best headlight I have ever owned and blew away dinosaur halogen and LED comparable units. Even the famed JW Speaker 8700J. Just my opinion from my fairly vast experience with lighting. YMMV.
you're persuading me, just like three other ( 2 Jeep owners + one Nismo head) friends I have that continue to say the exact same thing about HID. My thing with "dinosaur" isn't to save the money ( I run LED tails and between the light output - basically a blob of light- and the flickering & the resistors and the cost it just is not gonna happen up front as I haven't the confidence to put my nor my family at risk from headlights not being there) as much as I just know the halogen Xenon crap will work +they are not AS horrid as the stock lighting. Honestly, I don't wanna have to bake my lenses in the oven to loosen the silicone sealant @ just the right temp, then locate somewhere to put a ballast on each side of an already tight engine bay ,then wait for them to warm-up each time I turn them on ALL while paying what is not too far removed from the ludicrous cost of a set of JWSpeaker ... and , actually,now that I say that , the money DOES come into play; If I can spend very little money to improve my lighting 4-5 times for the better, I can then allocate those saved funds ( that are not unlimited) to use on the insanely expensive drivetrain ,chromoly double-cardan-dildos , recovery upgrades or lockers, armor or any of the countless other shit that I break just because those things are gonna get the dibs on fund allocation way before a $300-$600 set of projectors headlights that are the devil to assemble and setup will.
Yes. I would very likely upgrade if I could have a low space-occupying ballast & very minimal work aside from the installation to make it happen . I have seen the light output; it is like 50x better ,even light years away ,from H4s.....So, show me the light, JKCATZ ; educate me so I can run the HIDs without spending $500 and I will. ..I am in for no more than approx $150 per headlamp...
( edit:listen, I really am not provoking anything; maybe I am honestly missing something you know way more than I do about . I have read USMCDocs lighting comparisons and all of the installations & it really seems great but I always have something expensive with one of the Jeeps ( recall I have multiple high mileage jeeps aside from this JK wallet drainer...) that takes precedence over what I still deem decadent headlamps)


<edit2: I would like these. They are incredible even tho'; rather brah-ish. They are ostentatious enough that I would be proud to sport them though,lol. Considering them, I am sorry but that is just a boatload of money until I have my locker and regear done. See? Oh, the XJ needs seats and a freaking water pump & the YJ has a bloody TUBE BUMPER still on it. I can continue....lmao>


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post #10 of 29 Old 02-14-2016, 11:20 PM
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Simple, buy the base S7 kit, don't buy halos or other goofy shit. Spend the money on the XB35 bulbs in 4500k or 5500k and buy 50W ballasts. Build them yourself, it is easy, I did a build thread, I am always willing to help others assemble. 492.00 in parts. Best headlight you'll ever own. Completely rebuildable too, so let's say the projector fails, install a new one, move on. If the LED fails in the Trucklite or JW, buh-bye... Wasted money. See image, that is the exact kit I'd buy if I was going to build a set, no goofy halo or angel/devil eye shit.
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post #11 of 29 Old 02-15-2016, 07:19 AM
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Well, boy had I not done my homework. I thank you and will check these out after work today .... Awesome , JKCTAZ.


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post #12 of 29 Old 02-15-2016, 09:28 AM
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I would love a set of those but with our dollar now it's gonna cost me about $700 CAD for those. I noticed Quadratec has the Truck-lights for $399 a pair on their website as well, must be the left-over Gen I's I'm assuming.

I was interested in the Rebel Off-Road Hellfire HID's but it doesn't look like they make them anymore.

I got a cheap lightbar off ebay that actually lights up great for offroad use and it was only $65. So I guess I'm that guy that put about $25000 into my jeep but I'd rather have ram assist steering than headlights.
(not meant to be offensive, kinda true haha).

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post #13 of 29 Old 02-15-2016, 10:15 AM
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i'm not offended, as i've pretty much cheaped out on every single thing i've purchased lol

i try to pick items that provide the most value to me. i can't see (no pun intended) spending more than double on a set of headlamps when my current set was cheap and performs great. it throws out better light than nearly every single vehicle near me on the road.

i'm not saying a $500 set wouldn't be even better than what i currently have. i am just saying that my $200 set works great for me and i was able to use the extra $300 to cheap out on a winch LOL
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post #14 of 29 Old 02-15-2016, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boopiejones View Post
i'm not offended, as i've pretty much cheaped out on every single thing i've purchased lol

i try to pick items that provide the most value to me. i can't see (no pun intended) spending more than double on a set of headlamps when my current set was cheap and performs great. it throws out better light than nearly every single vehicle near me on the road.

i'm not saying a $500 set wouldn't be even better than what i currently have. i am just saying that my $200 set works great for me and i was able to use the extra $300 to cheap out on a winch LOL
Just want to add to the pro-halogen bandwagon because they're what I have by choice.

I have basically the same setup as boopiejones, and I do have the extra cash for whiz-bang Fast & Furious lighting, but no desire for it.
I'm also not opting for a wing, chrome rims, titanium valve springs, NOS, or a shift handle shaped like Vin Diesel's nut sack .

TAZ -
  • Feel free to be a snippy elitist about the lights you put on the Jeep you don't have, but don't assume that shit's best for everyone
  • A relay setup negates your point about amperage draw of 100W halogens
  • Dunno what you were smoking, but the color temperature of my Hella 100/80 bulbs is perfect
  • 100W/80W H4s are reasonably self-defrosting in any navigable ice storms (unlike HIDs? )
  • Halogens don't crap out if they get splashed or moisture is really high (offroad thing - Google it)
  • Halogens either work or need a bulb replaced, and usually one of the two filaments is still good (redundancy is good)
  • If I crack or shatter a headlight housing (shit happens), it's fixable for less than 50 bucks and 10 minutes (and no epoxy).
Remember, for many of us, it's a fucking Jeep (which you didn't need) and simplicity has tangible benefits as well as traditional appeal.

Not hating, but while you're laughing at cave-man halogens on a wheelin' rig, I'm laughing at Vin Diesel's nutsack on the car you sold.

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post #15 of 29 Old 02-15-2016, 12:55 PM
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So which halogens are best?

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post #16 of 29 Old 02-15-2016, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post
Just want to add to the pro-halogen bandwagon because they're what I have by choice.

I have basically the same setup as boopiejones, and I do have the extra cash for whiz-bang Fast & Furious lighting, but no desire for it.
I'm also not opting for a wing, chrome rims, titanium valve springs, NOS, or a shift handle shaped like Vin Diesel's nut sack .

TAZ -
  • Feel free to be a snippy elitist about the lights you put on the Jeep you don't have, but don't assume that shit's best for everyone
  • A relay setup negates your point about amperage draw of 100W halogens
  • Dunno what you were smoking, but the color temperature of my Hella 100/80 bulbs is perfect
  • 100W/80W H4s are reasonably self-defrosting in any navigable ice storms (unlike HIDs? )
  • Halogens don't crap out if they get splashed or moisture is really high (offroad thing - Google it)
  • Halogens either work or need a bulb replaced, and usually one of the two filaments is still good (redundancy is good)
  • If I crack or shatter a headlight housing (shit happens), it's fixable for less than 50 bucks and 10 minutes (and no epoxy).
Remember, for many of us, it's a fucking Jeep (which you didn't need) and simplicity has tangible benefits as well as traditional appeal.

Not hating, but while you're laughing at cave-man halogens on a wheelin' rig, I'm laughing at Vin Diesel's nutsack on the car you sold.
good points; yet-again, to each their own as Ex has pointed out more than succinctly.
Re: breaking the glass lenses ; been there/done that....I've found that 7" stone guards off of a 70's era Triumph sports car are a good protection from such a "shattering-of-visions" by rocks, cedar limbs,road-bouncing jetsam,small animals and insects.....I don't think Vin Diesel's Scrotum will require any protection, tho I ain't testin' this theory.....


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post #17 of 29 Old 02-15-2016, 02:28 PM
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Ex, you clearly don't understand that 100W of current through a relay is still a 100W of current being consumed from your battery... Halogen uses a lot of current, period. Doesn't matter what controls it. You're not getting anything near 4000k which is daylight as we perceive it with your halogens, which would actually be perfect.

Quality lighting has no bearing on Fast and Furious whiz bang blah blah blah. So being able to see isn't important to you, cool. Doesn't change facts, being what they are...
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post #18 of 29 Old 02-15-2016, 08:38 PM
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Stock headlights.
And HIDs in the same spot. Raining, so not perfect.
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post #19 of 29 Old 02-15-2016, 08:40 PM
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And two more showing just how far you can actually SEE with them.

I have ran a lot of lights before, and nothing has beat these.
They are NOT CHEAP.
But I do a LOT of night driving. So I flat out wanted the best.
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post #20 of 29 Old 02-15-2016, 08:42 PM
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Oh, and for you cheap buggers
These lights cost less then cheap lights, a new grill, radiator, etc. you have to replace if/when you hit a deer.
I live in the hills where there are a LOT of deer, and a good number of elk. Being able to see them sooner makes a big difference.
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post #21 of 29 Old 02-15-2016, 08:55 PM
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So what kind are they, where'd you get them?????
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post #22 of 29 Old 02-15-2016, 09:50 PM
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Mine are the Sealed 7's from TRS.
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/fu...eadlights.html
I got the 50W with Night Breaker bulbs (not listed on the page anymore? )
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post #23 of 29 Old 02-15-2016, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCTAZ View Post
Ex, you clearly don't understand that 100W of current through a relay is still a 100W of current being consumed from your battery...
I'm nobody's Nikola Tesla, but I have taught small seminars on V=IR and P=IV, and nobody's yet accused me of not understanding.
By the way, on your subject of understanding this voodoo: there is no such thing as "100W of current".
You may have 100W of POWER which ( @12.5V ) would be 8A of CURRENT.
(Might I humbly suggest learning at least that much before gettin' all preachy and condescending? )


Quote:
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... Halogen uses a lot of current, period.
"A lot" is relative, Sir.
My Jeep can spare 16A to run 2 100W halogen high beams, and 16A through a 30A relay is an "easy" load - it's a non-issue.
My winch (hydraulic) only draws 2A at full load, so I have to do something to keep the 160A alternator interested.
On my DR 650 I'm an amp miser, but on the JK there's just no need.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCTAZ View Post
Doesn't matter what controls it. You're not getting anything near 4000k which is daylight as we perceive it with your halogens, which would actually be perfect.
Perfect for you, and you're welcome to it. Some people may have different criteria than you.
I'm getting old(er) and my eyes strongly dislike the bluer lights - I like to stay on the "warmer" side of 4000K.
I can get halogen bulbs at 4000K, but that is not what I want.
My Hella halogen bulbs are somewhere between 3200K and 4000K, and that's "perfect" for me - I wouldn't change a thing.
HIDs at ~4200K are closer to "daylight" (5-6000K), but I get glare issues at the bluer color temps (esp. in fog and dust).


Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCTAZ View Post
So being able to see isn't important to you, cool.
Being able to see is very important to me. That's why I've put a lot of thought into my lighting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCTAZ View Post
Doesn't change facts, being what they are...
Maybe I didn't make this clear enough in my first post, so let me kiss your ass for a minute if that helps you:
YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY RIGHT . . .
. . . FOR YOUR NEEDS . . . NOT FOR EVERYBODY'S NEEDS.
You have your go-to, ultimate solution - cool, I'm vagina-tastically happy for you.
I (and possibly one or two other people) may want something different, that we see as better.
That doesn't make you or us wrong, just different - and that's OK. Smug elitism = unjustified.

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post #24 of 29 Old 02-16-2016, 12:01 AM
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Pot, meet kettle. Facts are facts are facts. Not opinion.

I know OHM's law.

You can calculate watts from amps and volts. You can't convert amps to watts since watts and amps units do not measure the same quantity. Blah blah blah. You stated that somehow magically controlling a 100w load through a relay somehow reduced it's effect on the device feeding it with power. Therefore making a retarded amount of incandescent load somehow magically less detrimental to the charging system.
A 5W LED or a 50W HID is still going to consume less than a single 100W halogen and consume less doing it in numbers.

Fucking fact.

4300-4500k is not blue, unless you're wearing your Elton John glasses. Halogen puts out 3000-3500 kelvin. True daylight is above 5000k, but 4000-5000k is perceptible as clear and comfortable on the human eye with less strain.

Fucking fact.

You may have put thought into your aged and outdated lighting, doesn't mean I haven't researched the fuck out of this and know all about the facts.

Having done the research, I kind of know what i'm talking about on this subject and the OP asked for experienced information, not your opinion. I HAVE side by side compared just about every brand out there. The S7's are the best for light output. Sorry if that doesn't align with your limited opinion based on zero experience about this subject. Yeah.
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Some folks are fine with being screwed over, perhaps finding confrontation to be more stressful than just living with whatever the problem is. These are excellent consumers, manufactured to the finest specifications.
Reformed Jeep addict... Jeepless for now.

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post #25 of 29 Old 02-16-2016, 05:15 AM
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Jeezus, guys.....
this is good stuff!
Take it easy on each other but your dialogue is teaching us a boatload ...
I am considering the Sealed7s but only after the locker and R&Ps are upgraded in next month or so.... & there are new seats in the XJ .......
Those comparison images really lay out the difference, Hammer....


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