07 2DR HELP! - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 06-03-2010, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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07 2DR HELP!

So, as of a hour ago, my Jeep is sitting on the side of the road. I got to lunch and it starts just fine. Go less than 2 miles down the road and turn it off. I am out of the Jeep about 20 seconds and go to start it back up. It does nothing. The lights light up in ACC. just fine. In the crank position, nothing and the light deem way down. The wipers come on and NO FUSE comes up on the dash. Hooked it up to a Dodge fullsize to jump it and no luck!

Any ideas?

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post #2 of 12 Old 06-03-2010, 11:31 AM
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have you gone trhu all the fuses, esp large ones?

'92 YJ
'13 WK2
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post #3 of 12 Old 06-03-2010, 11:38 AM
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1. Get in Jeep, close the door, put key in ignition. Push the key straight in and turn forward very slightly. It will go to a detent. Now, turn the key from that point to on/run three times. This will put the Jeep into diagnostic mode and allow you to see if any codes are visible. They will show up on the odometer display. If no codes have been thrown you'll see -------------- and then it will reset. If you have codes, you'll see something like PO0137, PO113 and so on until all codes are reported. Write them down.

It sounds like your battery/alt could have taken a dump or you have a bad ground.
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post #4 of 12 Old 06-03-2010, 11:41 AM
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I found this tidbit of info.

"The IOD (Ignition Off Draw) fuse is the only one to trigger the No Fuse error."
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post #5 of 12 Old 06-03-2010, 11:43 AM
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IIRC, that fuse should be in your PDC under the hood. The PDC is that black looking box on the passenger side over between the battery and airbox. There's a map of the fuses on the other side of the cover. The IOD should be something like a 10amp.
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post #6 of 12 Old 06-03-2010, 11:45 AM
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If the IOD fuse looks okay, reseat it a few times and see if it helps.
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post #7 of 12 Old 06-03-2010, 11:48 AM
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Okay, I also found a TSB relating to the condition.

Bottom line up front - pull out IOD fuse, wait 30 seconds, reseat and try it again until it can be fixed.

Here's the TSB.
NUMBER: 08-007-08
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: March 04, 2008
SUBJECT: No Engine Crank Or No Engine Start Due To Electronic Lockup Of The WCM / SKREEM

This bulletin involves the replacement of the Wireless Control Module (WCM). The WCM is also referred to as the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM).



Symptom
The customer may experience a no engine crank and/or a no engine start condition. Also, the remote keyless entry (RKE) system may not operate.



Cause
This condition may be due to an electrostatic discharge (ESD) from the ignition key into the Wireless Control Module (WCM), causing the WCM to electronically lockup. This condition may occur more frequently in dry and/or cold weather conditions where a sufficient electrostatic charge is more easily produced. This condition is corrected by the replacement of the WCM.

Until the WCM is replaced, the WCM may be reset (unlocked) by either: disconnecting and then reconnect the battery negative cable at the battery, or by removing the IOD fuse (with the key out of the ignition switch), waiting 30 seconds, and reinstall the IOD fuse.



Solution
DIAGNOSIS:
1. With the vehicle in the no crank / no start condition, connect the StarSCAN� scan tool to the vehicle.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the �ON� position, and power up the StarSCAN�.
3. If the WCM is electronically locked up, the StarSCAN� will display the WCM as being �off bus�.
4. If the no crank / no start condition is present, and the WCM is �off bus�, then reset the WCM by temporarily removing the IOD fuse (with the key out of the ignition switch), waiting for 30 seconds and then reinstalling the IOD fuse.
5. If the above condition has occurred, and if the part number of the WCM is earlier than the part number of the WCM listed in the parts list in the Service Bulletin, then perform the Repair Procedure.

REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Replace the WCM/SKREEM. Refer to TechCONNECT for detailed service information. From the Service Info tab select: 8 - Electrical > Vehicle Theft Security - Service Information > Module, Sentry Key Remote Entry > Removal and Installation.

NOTE: After a WCM/SKREEM is replaced, the ignition/transponder keys need to be programmed to a new WCM/SKREEM. Follow the directions on the StarSCAN�. The transponder key for the SKREEM/WCM and the RKE will be programmed during this operation. There is no need to program the fob of the key for RKE functionality once the transponder key is programmed to the new WCM/SKREEM.
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post #8 of 12 Old 06-03-2010, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Wow, Bigt your the man! Tanks for all the info. I work at a Honda dealership and we own the Jeep dealership next door. After the OP, I went over and talked to the shop forman. He said it could be a split cell in the battery. He said first try a new battery. So, cam back over to the Honda side a got a use 550CCA that was showing 450CCA. Took it to the Jeep and installed it. It fired right up! I just have never seen a vehical with a dead battery act so strange before. I was worried the problem was going to be deeper than just the battery. Plus the fuse message! Any clue to how well the 550CCA will hold up in the Jeep?

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post #9 of 12 Old 06-03-2010, 12:30 PM
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Not a problem...that's what we're here for.

I would upgrade to better battery. Heat and cold take a toll on them. Try a Sears Diehard group 34 or a Odyssey Group 34 if you can. The Odyssey is a nice battery and will be my choice when I upgrade.

See http://www.odysseybatteries.com/batt...1500series.htm

Good luck and I'm glad to hear that it worked out.
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post #10 of 12 Old 06-03-2010, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, Odyssey is what we used in my car audio compatition vans back in the day. Great battery! What about a referb Optima Red top?

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post #11 of 12 Old 06-03-2010, 01:31 PM
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I had good luck with the older Optimas. I heard that the newer ones aren't as good but I can't say for sure. We did have an Optima in our CRD Liberty and it bit the dust with only 2 years on the clock. I have a Optima in one my old musclecars and it has been great. I bought it back in 04 and it still runs strong.
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post #12 of 12 Old 06-03-2010, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, our battery supplier has a referb red top for $60 I might have to pick up. I think it will do better than the Honda battery that is in there now!

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