Parasitic Draw 2011 JKUR - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 22 Old 12-26-2015, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Parasitic Draw 2011 JKUR

Tested for the draw tonight and found a significant drop in draw when I pulled the 20A M3 fuse.

I believe this fuse is designated for the front and rear lockers so how exactly would I go about fixing this issue.

Mind you I have an Currie dana 60 in the rear with an ARB but the front is the stock Rubi 44.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 22 Old 12-26-2015, 09:36 PM
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How much of a drop do you see when you pull the fuse?
When you pull the fuse, is the total draw less than 0.035 amps?

The power that goes through that fuse feeds both locker relay coils, and both locker actuators.

I would remove the locker relays one at a time and see if that causes a drop in the draw.

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Last edited by ronjenx; 12-26-2015 at 09:45 PM.
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post #3 of 22 Old 12-26-2015, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
How much of a drop do you see when you pull the fuse?
When you pull the fuse, is the total draw less than 0.035 amps?

The power that goes through that fuse feeds both locker relay coils, and both locker actuators.

I would remove the locker relays one at a time and see if that causes a drop in the draw.
I get a .14 amp drop when I pull the fuse. Looking at the relays was going to be my next step. Could a bad relay be the culprit?
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post #4 of 22 Old 12-26-2015, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
How much of a drop do you see when you pull the fuse?
When you pull the fuse, is the total draw less than 0.035 amps?

The power that goes through that fuse feeds both locker relay coils, and both locker actuators.

I would remove the locker relays one at a time and see if that causes a drop in the draw.
Oh and total draw is still at .11 amps after pulling the fuse…starts out at .25 amps.

Probably still need to find the other draw but trying to fix one at a time.
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post #5 of 22 Old 12-26-2015, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rayzjeep View Post
Oh and total draw is still at .11 amps after pulling the fuse…starts out at .25 amps.

Probably still need to find the other draw but trying to fix one at a time.
Leave M3 out, and continue pulling fuses to see where the other draws are.

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post #6 of 22 Old 12-27-2015, 06:01 AM
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What made you start investigating the draw? Are you getting a dead battery?
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post #7 of 22 Old 12-27-2015, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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What made you start investigating the draw? Are you getting a dead battery?
Yeah…it would get pretty weak after about 3 days of sitting. Already had the battery checked out and everything was good.
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post #8 of 22 Old 01-19-2016, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
Leave M3 out, and continue pulling fuses to see where the other draws are.
So I kept investigating and found that the other drain is coming from something related to my LS swap. I pulled one of the fuses from the LS fuse block and my drain went to basically .02 amps which is good.

Problem is now how do I fix the issue? The swap was done using the Motech kit and I know they had issues a long time ago but this is a newer harness and shouldn't cause a drain. Probably need to talk to Robbie.
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post #9 of 22 Old 01-19-2016, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rayzjeep View Post
Probably need to talk to Robbie.
Yes. That's where I'd go next, too.
He's very knowledgeable about these JKs.

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post #10 of 22 Old 01-20-2016, 03:05 PM
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Im experience some sort of draw also. Pretty terrible with the wiring part of vechiles. It will drain my battery in a day of sitting. Makes a clicking noise when i connect my negative battery terminal any ideas? Or how to test anything?
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post #11 of 22 Old 01-21-2016, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Im experience some sort of draw also. Pretty terrible with the wiring part of vechiles. It will drain my battery in a day of sitting. Makes a clicking noise when i connect my negative battery terminal any ideas? Or how to test anything?
First disconnet your negative terminal on your battery and separtate it from the battery post.
Then with a digital multimeter on the 10A setting, connnect one lead of the multimeter to the negative on the battery and the other lead to your disconnected negative cable from the Jeep.

After you have it all connected you should see a number that represents the key off drain on your system.
Then start pulling fuses and when ever you see a drop in the amps you know that's the system causing your drain.

Make sure you don't have any doors open or anything else on that could cause the draw before starting the test.

Pull your M3 fuse and see if you get a drop in amps like I did. Below is a link to a video that explains it pretty good.

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post #12 of 22 Old 01-21-2016, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayzjeep View Post
First disconnet your negative terminal on your battery and separtate it from the battery post.
Then with a digital multimeter on the 10A setting, connnect one lead of the multimeter to the negative on the battery and the other lead to your disconnected negative cable from the Jeep.

After you have it all connected you should see a number that represents the key off drain on your system.
Then start pulling fuses and when ever you see a drop in the amps you know that's the system causing your drain.

Make sure you don't have any doors open or anything else on that could cause the draw before starting the test.

Pull your M3 fuse and see if you get a drop in amps like I did. Below is a link to a video that explains it pretty good.
What you wrote is pretty good. I would add, the ignition off draw on our JKs will be high until about 5 minutes after you make the connection, as it takes that time for all the systems to shut down.
Also, once you make the connection, make sure it's a good one, because if you loose continuity, the wait time starts over when you re-establish the connection.
Normal ignition off draw for our JKs is about 0.035 amps.

edit to add:
I finally was able to see the video. This guy covers the subject very well, making some of the points usually left of instructional videos.
Very good, and worth watching.

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Last edited by ronjenx; 01-21-2016 at 02:44 PM.
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post #13 of 22 Old 01-21-2016, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
What you wrote is pretty good. I would add, the ignition off draw on our JKs will be high until about 5 minutes after you make the connection, as it takes that time for all the systems to shut down.
Also, once you make the connection, make sure it's a good one, because if you loose continuity, the wait time starts over when you re-establish the connection.
Normal ignition off draw for our JKs is about 0.035 amps.

edit to add:
I finally was able to see the video. This guy covers the subject very well, making some of the points usually left of instructional videos.
Very good, and worth watching.
Well said especially about keping the continuity. If you don't have good clips it's tough to keep a good connection

I still haven't found a solution to the draw coming from the M3 fuse unfortunatley.

Since I only have a front locker (rear has an ARB) I swapped the rear locker relay into the front relay position to see if there was any change but no luck.

What in the locker wiring could cause a draw like this?
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post #14 of 22 Old 02-01-2016, 05:46 PM
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So its been i bit i tested how you guys said. Getting a .64 only time it drops is when i pull the iod fuses which makes since. Went to hook my cb back up last weekend and noticed when i put my mountng bracket against my cage it sparked. No power wire hooked up to it ? Any clues
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post #15 of 22 Old 02-02-2016, 02:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07 rubicant View Post
So its been i bit i tested how you guys said. Getting a .64 only time it drops is when i pull the iod fuses which makes since. Went to hook my cb back up last weekend and noticed when i put my mountng bracket against my cage it sparked. No power wire hooked up to it ? Any clues
Static discharge?

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post #16 of 22 Old 02-02-2016, 11:40 AM
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No clue. Cant find a short any where.
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post #17 of 22 Old 02-02-2016, 04:40 PM
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Does anyone know if the hood pin switch needs to be depressed while testing for parasitic draw?
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post #18 of 22 Old 02-02-2016, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by coilrod View Post
Does anyone know if the hood pin switch needs to be depressed while testing for parasitic draw?
I don't see anything about it in the service manual's description of the ignition off draw test.
Remove the under-hood light bulb if you have that option.

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Last edited by ronjenx; 02-02-2016 at 05:58 PM.
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post #19 of 22 Old 02-02-2016, 09:08 PM
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Thanks.
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post #20 of 22 Old 02-03-2016, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Anybody try testing for a drop after pulling the M3 fuse? Still not sure how to fix this.
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post #21 of 22 Old 02-04-2016, 06:52 PM
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My m3 fuse draws power too. Cant figure it out. Been reading that thw factory amp can draw power randomly with a aftermarket head unit.
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post #22 of 22 Old 02-10-2016, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07 rubicant View Post
My m3 fuse draws power too. Cant figure it out. Been reading that thw factory amp can draw power randomly with a aftermarket head unit.
Thanks for trying the M3 fuse...wish I could find a fix for that. Something to do with the locker switch I think.
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