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post #1 of 19 Old 04-22-2015, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Stereo Upgrade

Next on my mod list is to tackle the stereo. I have the 130n with connectivity group. No factory sub or amp. My plans are to add a 4 channel amp and replace all the speakers. I really want to keep the head unit as is for now. Im planning on using a PAC-LP7-4 for my LOC to the amp and running 75-100W RMS to either the Polk db651's or Kicker CS series. My question is about the factory speakers/tweeters in the top of the dash and sound bar. I have seen that they are not a normal tweeter anymore and just curious about replacements. Anyone done it yet? I have seen discussions on it but haven't really seen a good replacement yet.
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post #2 of 19 Old 04-22-2015, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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I did actually find some info on another forum that suggested doing the db6501 components and cutting the factory 3.5" speakers as a mount.
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post #3 of 19 Old 04-22-2015, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gafirefighter20 View Post
Next on my mod list is to tackle the stereo. I have the 130n with connectivity group. No factory sub or amp. My plans are to add a 4 channel amp and replace all the speakers. I really want to keep the head unit as is for now. Im planning on using a PAC-LP7-4 for my LOC to the amp and running 75-100W RMS to either the Polk db651's or Kicker CS series. My question is about the factory speakers/tweeters in the top of the dash and sound bar. I have seen that they are not a normal tweeter anymore and just curious about replacements. Anyone done it yet? I have seen discussions on it but haven't really seen a good replacement yet.
I have them. Love them, but the tweeter was a PITA to install. I have a 2014, so I am going to assume (yeah yeah yeah) that the 2015's are the same (size/etc) I had to trim the tweeter dash pod a little bit with an exacto knife and smooth it down with some sand paper.

Was it worth it. To me, yes. But I am picky on how my music sounds. If you're not as picky, just get the co-axial set and be done with it.

If you need directions on how to put the speakers/stereo in, I have a write up in the write up forum.

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post #4 of 19 Old 04-22-2015, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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I have them. Love them, but the tweeter was a PITA to install. I have a 2014, so I am going to assume (yeah yeah yeah) that the 2015's are the same (size/etc) I had to trim the tweeter dash pod a little bit with an exacto knife and smooth it down with some sand paper.

Was it worth it. To me, yes. But I am picky on how my music sounds. If you're not as picky, just get the co-axial set and be done with it.

If you need directions on how to put the speakers/stereo in, I have a write up in the write up forum.
The 2015's are a little different. They are flat in the dash and are around 3-3.5" and have the same ones in the soundbar next to the 6.5" woofers. I did find these http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...nd-BS9-10.html. Sonic has a video of using them to make a bracket to install 1" tweeters in the same location on a Dodge Charger with what appeared to be the exact same size tweeters in the dash. I think I am going to go with the Polk Components and fab up a bracket to fit them in the stock location or tear apart the factory speakers to use as a mount. I will definitely be installing an aftermarket amp to push them. I know the 130n is a horrible stereo with poor signal quality but running an amp and good speakers behind it will still be tons better than what I have now.
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post #5 of 19 Old 04-23-2015, 07:56 PM
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I'm interested in know this as well! Let me know what you use and how it turns out! The stock sound system is pathetic at best!
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post #6 of 19 Old 04-23-2015, 08:46 PM
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I've ordered from SE (don't know if they're a sponsor so didn't want to put their name in). Anyways, if you can wait, wait until things go on sale.

I have a Clarion deck that I bought off my co-worker who had it in his EVO. 50.00.

Bought the polk components (fronts) and the co-axial (sound bar). Also did the PAC harness for the deck. Wired in an Alpine Class D amp (45x4 rms) for the full range and set the cross over to 100hz.

Bought a Rockford Fosgate Class D amp 100x2 with the low pass crossover set at 100hz . It is bridged running my 10"JL sub in a seal box.

It rocks and is really clear. No way would you get that type of clarity with the stock deck, no matter what you did short of a sound processor (IMHO).

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post #7 of 19 Old 04-23-2015, 11:29 PM
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^^^ Agreed.

I have had this crazy notion rattling around in my head about redoing my system, AGAIN! Currently I have a Pioneer DEH-X3500UI (Sorry ndt, I effin hate Clarion head units.) crossed at 80hz running Infinity 6032 coaxials. My front pods are SS Damplifier pro'd internally with two layers and fiber filled. The soundbar has the exact same setup and treatment. Even with all of that, it needs more when I kick out the crossover and try to run full frequency with no sub. It produces bass, just not great bass mostly because of the way they positioned the drivers in the Jeep. I toyed with the idea of glass'ing the pods to make them more rigid so I could switch to separates and drive the ever loving shit out of them, but that is a lot of work for an unknown outcome. So I run a Polk DB DVC 8" in a small volume box driven off a R series Fosgate amplifier and that makes a world of difference in sound. The stock radio employs something called bass contour circuitry. That is a fancy term for speaker protection nanny to avoid warranty issues. What that means is for every notch it gets turned up, a certain portion of the low frequency is clipped.

The only way to overcome that is a sound processor like the JLAudio Clean Sweep, JBL MS-8, or the infamous MTX RE-Q (if you can find one) and those cost more than a new head unit, CanBus adapter, and install kit. Just food for thought.

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post #8 of 19 Old 04-24-2015, 07:55 PM
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^^^ Agreed.

I have had this crazy notion rattling around in my head about redoing my system, AGAIN! Currently I have a Pioneer DEH-X3500UI (Sorry ndt, I effin hate Clarion head units.) crossed at 80hz running Infinity 6032 coaxials. My front pods are SS Damplifier pro'd internally with two layers and fiber filled. The soundbar has the exact same setup and treatment. Even with all of that, it needs more when I kick out the crossover and try to run full frequency with no sub. It produces bass, just not great bass mostly because of the way they positioned the drivers in the Jeep. I toyed with the idea of glass'ing the pods to make them more rigid so I could switch to separates and drive the ever loving shit out of them, but that is a lot of work for an unknown outcome. So I run a Polk DB DVC 8" in a small volume box driven off a R series Fosgate amplifier and that makes a world of difference in sound. The stock radio employs something called bass contour circuitry. That is a fancy term for speaker protection nanny to avoid warranty issues. What that means is for every notch it gets turned up, a certain portion of the low frequency is clipped.

The only way to overcome that is a sound processor like the JLAudio Clean Sweep, JBL MS-8, or the infamous MTX RE-Q (if you can find one) and those cost more than a new head unit, CanBus adapter, and install kit. Just food for thought.
Nice setup. Agreed on the stock radio. GAWD I hated that POS.

Mine had no sub or amp and just driving down the road with the front windows down (top up/rear door windows up) I had to put it on 35 of 46(IIRC) just to listen to it at a decent volume. Highway at 65...LOL, one number under max. As you said, as the volume goes up, the curve for bass is adjusted/hacked off/clipped so it protects the paper POS speakers.

I mis-typed. It's a JVC, why I typed out Clarion, I have no idea (been crazy here between family/work). You probably still hate the JVC.

Still, it jams out and the sub hits so HARD that people think i have a 12 with more power. It's always nice to see the bewildered look on their faces.

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post #9 of 19 Old 04-24-2015, 10:00 PM
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Actually, JVC isn't bad and they pack a lot of features into their head units for decent money. I have had two Clarion head units in the last 7 years. First one was a double DIN DVD unit with a 6.1 inch screen. Started rebooting randomly after a few months, conveniently out of warranty. I sold it it to a guy with the understanding that it had issues. I had a single DIN FZ501 and the USB navigation of iPod and thumb drives was terrible. I couldn't give it away on here. I think IIRC I gave it to GoodWill. I won't buy another one. I have had excellent results with Pioneer stuff. I still have a Pioneer GM-D8500 Class D monoblock with maybe 20 hours on it and a REF1262W DVC 12 sitting in a tote if I want to take it all the way, but I don't want that stuff to get stolen, so I will sit on them until I get a different vehicle to use them in.

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post #10 of 19 Old 04-25-2015, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by JKCTAZ View Post
Actually, JVC isn't bad and they pack a lot of features into their head units for decent money. I have had two Clarion head units in the last 7 years. First one was a double DIN DVD unit with a 6.1 inch screen. Started rebooting randomly after a few months, conveniently out of warranty. I sold it it to a guy with the understanding that it had issues. I had a single DIN FZ501 and the USB navigation of iPod and thumb drives was terrible. I couldn't give it away on here. I think IIRC I gave it to GoodWill. I won't buy another one. I have had excellent results with Pioneer stuff. I still have a Pioneer GM-D8500 Class D monoblock with maybe 20 hours on it and a REF1262W DVC 12 sitting in a tote if I want to take it all the way, but I don't want that stuff to get stolen, so I will sit on them until I get a different vehicle to use them in.
Damn, I'd hate them too. I was looking at a few Pioneer and Alpines, but when my co-worker told me about his JVC, I was like, hell I'll give it a whirl. It has a 7 band eq, sub controls (gain/freq/etc), usb and 3.5mm ports, etc.

It wasn't a touch screen which makes me happy. My fat fingers + touch screen = frustration.

Brandon, my co-worker, had the JVC in his EVO. He took it in for a warranty issues for the AC. Gets the car back, a few days later, the JVC starts to cut out every time he hits a bump then come back on on another bump. Thought it was the deck.

Takes said deck out and gets a new pioneer. Does the same thing. He takes the EVO back to the dealer and they said they didn't do it/wouldn't look at it/etc. Got pissed, took it to the stereo shop he bought his stuff from and asked them to look at it. Sure enough, when they did the warranty work, they pinched a wire to the deck. After the wire was fixed, he had no more issues.

He had the JVC sitting there and when I said about getting a new deck/etc, he offered it to me. Best 50.00 I ever spent. The blasted canbus cost me 25.00 more than the stereo. SMDH.

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post #11 of 19 Old 05-01-2015, 05:53 PM
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I also have a 2015 2dr Rubicon with the UConnect130/connectivity group/no sub (so no amp?!?).

I want to put my Kenwood DNX6140 GPS Nav unit in, so if I remove the stock radio and use the wiring adapter will the non-radio steering wheel controls still work or do you need the PAC (or Maestro) adapter?

The Kenwood has bluetooth built in.

Not really sure what functions are controlled by UConnect - and is that a separte module from the headunit?

Thanks.

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post #12 of 19 Old 05-01-2015, 09:39 PM
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I have replaced all speakers in my 2015. I have also been a car audio installer in the past. First and foremost, don't expect a lot from the factory speakers. In the rear soundbar I did Dynomat internally as well as polyfill. Use a small amout of polyfill. The rears hace a Tweeter and woofer. They both get full range from the headunit, so if using those wires just get the Chrysler clips. I unplugged the tweeter, and left it in place, and installed 6.5" MB Quart. In the front you MUST line the inside of the speaker pods with Dynomat(or suitable substitute), and I also put it on the outside of the enclosure. I really wish somone made these in Fiberglass, and that may be my next project because the factory enclosures suck balls bad!!. I did MB Quart Reference 6.5" components up front. I took the factory Dash tweeter and cut the cone out with a razorblade, then cut the basket out with snips and used the factory speaker frame to hold the tweeter in place. I used the surface mounts for the tweeters, and drilled a self tap screw through the factory speaker frame into the plastic surface mounts that came with the tweeters. I then mounted them back under the factory grills with factory screws etc. Being an audiophile, they sound good, but understanding now, just how bad jeeps sound, I will be changing to the Polk DB651, as they are much louder due to a higher sensitivity (which means they won't sound as good just louder), but in a Jeep JK who cares. If you have time......scuff up the enclosures, and wrap them in fiberglass and resin....it will make a huge difference. I mounted my JL Slash amps under the seats, installed a Pioneer double DIN head unit so I could have iPod control, and backup camera and run my CB radio through the system If you add amps make sure you use a large, and short ground as the JK has a poor grounding system.

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post #13 of 19 Old 05-01-2015, 09:44 PM
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Steve, the Uconnect 130 without a sub/amp, just remove the Head unit, remove the metal bracket around the radio and discard, or save for later (you wont need it). Remember the screw in the top of the dash goes into it so you will not replace that screw. You can simply use a Chrysler 2008 and up standard wiring harness. You will need to run the IGN+ wire of your new head unit to the hot side of the cigarette lighter to allow the radio to work on the timed power that shuts the radio off when the door opens. the U Connect is pretty useless. I have it in my 2014 and never use it, so I don't miss it in the 2015! It does hands free calls essentially. If you have Sirus/XM in your new head unit you can call them and get your 1 year free transfered to the new head unit.

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post #14 of 19 Old 05-02-2015, 01:38 AM
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post #15 of 19 Old 03-03-2017, 11:34 AM
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Did a similar setup on my 2012 JK 2 door. Threw the factory 6.5 inch speakers in the pond, installed Polk DB6501 components up front / Polk DB651 coaxles in the sound bar. Alpine KTP 445U power pack running 45watts RMS to all (4) 6 1/2" polks. Mounted it behind the glovebox( zip tied it to the a/c vent tubes, right above the glovebox, fits nice there and easy access if I need to adjust the settings).
Kicker Hideaway 8" sub with 300watt built in amp in the storage tray behind the back seats. I screwed the velcro straps that come with it to the bottom of the tray, sinched the straps down tight and it just does clear the carpeted cover to lay down flat over it. Like it was never there.....

This system is a vast improvement from the base model stereo (non infinity) However.... Im wondering if the stock 130 head unit is fouling up the acoustics, on what should be a pretty clean sonding system. It sounds good with certain songs, but it leans to the pitchy side regardless of the crossover and EQ settings. it just seems out of sync. The rear channel doesnt get an equal amount of power for some reason, if you adjust the fader to the rear, the volume drops way down. I would rather not pull the stock head unit,unless I have to. I like the connectivity controls for the phone and would rather not draw attention to thives with a flashy aftermarket deck.

Has anyone tried a similar setup with aftermarket head unit? does it make a big difference. Are there any other options to override the crap coming out of the stock head unit? Has anyone tried a sound processor with the factory head unit?
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post #16 of 19 Old 03-06-2017, 06:28 AM
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You need to run some kind of line driver , it will take the speaker outputs and turn them into RCAs. Different one's have different features I like the one from Audio control. The lc6i or. Lc7i work great.


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post #17 of 19 Old 05-25-2017, 07:02 AM
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Hey guys, coming from an audio guy with a current 5000 watt multi amp setup I can give some input on My trial and error with different options. The tweeter is an odd shape and few coompanies make that size an replacement one being sundown audio . They have the size and it looks like it would fit but I have not ran it so I don't know. Your best bet to put a nice high quality tweeter in dash would be to remove the factory tweets flip them upside on a sheet of 1/8 -3/16 abs plastic trace the perimeter and cut out your own adaptor and your good to go. For the guy who started this thread if you plan on updating and adding and potentially adding more like we all do opt for a 5 channel amp so you have the option to add a sub onto the 5 channel when your ready. If not you can always add The sub amp later on ,which you will lol. The line output converter is key and pac will do but audiocontrol might be something worth looking into.

Current setup
Dual xs power d3400
Singer 240 alt.
2 runs of 1/0
8 image dynamic 6.5s
4 xs28 tweets
2 800.4 crescendo amps
1 3500.1 mini amp
1 sq. Hdc312
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post #18 of 19 Old 05-25-2017, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noisemakerjk View Post
Hey guys, coming from an audio guy with a current 5000 watt multi amp setup I can give some input on My trial and error with different options. The tweeter is an odd shape and few coompanies make that size an replacement one being sundown audio . They have the size and it looks like it would fit but I have not ran it so I don't know. Your best bet to put a nice high quality tweeter in dash would be to remove the factory tweets flip them upside on a sheet of 1/8 -3/16 abs plastic trace the perimeter and cut out your own adaptor and your good to go. For the guy who started this thread if you plan on updating and adding and potentially adding more like we all do opt for a 5 channel amp so you have the option to add a sub onto the 5 channel when your ready. If not you can always add The sub amp later on ,which you will lol. The line output converter is key and pac will do but audiocontrol might be something worth looking into.

Current setup
Dual xs power d3400
Singer 240 alt.
2 runs of 1/0
8 image dynamic 6.5s
4 xs28 tweets
2 800.4 crescendo amps
1 3500.1 mini amp
1 sq. Hdc312
HU ?

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post #19 of 19 Old 05-26-2017, 01:21 PM
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