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post #1 of 11 Old 03-20-2010, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Need Aux Driving Lights Wiring Help!

So I installed some Warn SD 260s and ran the wiring harness under the hood and then ran the on/off/dual mode switch in the cab. Only one mode of the high/low is working and when the lights were off they drained the battery. Here is a diagram of how it is hooked up. What am I doing wrong here? Obviously I am no electrician!


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post #2 of 11 Old 03-20-2010, 10:53 PM
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I ain't no sparky myself, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night...

Maybe try going with an ignition = on circuit to pull power for your switches. I did that with my DIY harness and had no battery drain issues. It's a little late in the evening for a photo hunt, but I'll check which slot I used in the fusebox to run power into my switches

I'm wondering if having constant contact with the battery terminals is where your drain issues are coming from. Maybe hooking up the grounds to a grounding screw somewhere on the body instead of the neg terminal on the battery would help.

I'd go through each connection with a meter and make sure you're getting current through to where you need it so you can pinpoint the problem. They're cheap, and they'll save you tons of time staring at the system wondering where the failure is happening.

When you say only one of the hi/lo is working, do you mean one light, only hi or only lo? Could be you have a bad relay. Did you wire the harness yourself, or is it the plug and play sort of stuff?

Like I said, I ain't no sparky, but them's my two cents.



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post #3 of 11 Old 03-21-2010, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dancin Dan View Post
I ain't no sparky myself, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night...

Maybe try going with an ignition = on circuit to pull power for your switches. I did that with my DIY harness and had no battery drain issues. It's a little late in the evening for a photo hunt, but I'll check which slot I used in the fusebox to run power into my switches

I'm wondering if having constant contact with the battery terminals is where your drain issues are coming from. Maybe hooking up the grounds to a grounding screw somewhere on the body instead of the neg terminal on the battery would help.

I'd go through each connection with a meter and make sure you're getting current through to where you need it so you can pinpoint the problem. They're cheap, and they'll save you tons of time staring at the system wondering where the failure is happening.

When you say only one of the hi/lo is working, do you mean one light, only hi or only lo? Could be you have a bad relay. Did you wire the harness yourself, or is it the plug and play sort of stuff?

Like I said, I ain't no sparky, but them's my two cents.
X2 on the above. Is the the switch lighted? In other words, is it supposed to be lit at night when your dash lights are on? If so, and it's wired wrong, the switch's lamp may be on full time drawing down the battery.

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post #4 of 11 Old 03-21-2010, 11:12 AM
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Dancing Dan's write-up

Here's a beauty done up by Dancing Dan. Great place to start.

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25168


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post #5 of 11 Old 03-21-2010, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yelorubi-EVA View Post
X2 on the above. Is the the switch lighted? In other words, is it supposed to be lit at night when your dash lights are on? If so, and it's wired wrong, the switch's lamp may be on full time drawing down the battery.
OK. I rewired so that the negative leads are attached to one of the ground screws on the Jeep rather than directly to the neg post on the battery. I get power to the lights switch in the cab, but neither of the lights in either mode are working. Also, the power only comes on at the switch when I have the running lights switched on at the steering column, so that was not the issue on the power draw.

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post #6 of 11 Old 03-21-2010, 04:59 PM
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I do not know what Warn SD 260 is - I assume auxiliary spotlights and you still have your stock headlights, perhaps you mean SDB-160. If so, I'd email Warn, I'm surprised these expensive lights have no instructions - perhaps they just forgot to put it on the website. The switch is the problem - you have to know what those leads are for.

Your diagram leaves off the most important thing - the relay pin connections and what the Warn switch does. Do the Warn lights come with a wiring harness that has a relay socket - or did you connect wire to the relay pins individually?

A relay is like a manual switch - two pins are the contacts that open and close. The other two pins are the coil - power is applied to in order to close the contacts.

That you drained the battery is confusing because usually that means sparks or melted wires, etc. Since you did not see lights come on and I assume there are no signs of melted wires/relays - then you must of shorted through a relay coil or perhaps you have the coil connected to the lights which acted as a current limiter slowing draining the battery through the light bulbs but not enough to light them bright enough for you to notice. That 4 lead switch is confusing too.

Anyway, regardless of my confusion about the way the battery drained, the relay or switch may no longer work - look at the wiring, switch, relays, to see if they look damaged (melted?).

Relays often have a diagram on the side/bottom of them for which pins are the contacts and which are the coil.

using your diagram:

1 is 12V battery connected to one side of the relay contact

The other side of the relay contact is connected to low beam/high beam

2 is connected to ground/neg

4 with "yellow jumper" appears to be the positive side of the relay coil. This is hooked to a 12 volt supply. Relay coils draw little current - typically less than 1 amp so a 25 amp fuse is way too high - you'll melt everything before it blows. Do not use the JK low/high beam harness for supply - that runs on a special circuit and potentially causes problems. (if you are trying to run these to switch on/off with stock headlights - that is a whole different wiring)

This leaves the negative side of the relay coil. In your diagram, this is what is being used by the switch to turn the relays on and off.

Looking at the switch picture on the Warn website there are 2 buttons "power" and "mode". Without Warn instructions, I have no idea what those do. I suspect the Warn intention is "power" is where the relay gets the positive 12V (meaning your wiring for 4 and the switch is wrong because the switch switches the relay coil positive not negative) and "mode" is the hi/low switching.

Do you know what each lead from the Warm switch does? I'm thinking that is where your problem is. Do you have a multimeter so you can test the switch? I suspect the mode button is two of the lines - it changes which of them connects to positive which is a third line on the switch. The purpose of the 4th line on the switch is connect to ground so the switch leds light up - nothing to do with the light relays.

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post #7 of 11 Old 03-21-2010, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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I do not know what Warn SD 260 is - I assume auxiliary spotlights and you still have your stock headlights, perhaps you mean SDB-160. If so, I'd email Warn, I'm surprised these expensive lights have no instructions - perhaps they just forgot to put it on the website. The switch is the problem - you have to know what those leads are for.

Your diagram leaves off the most important thing - the relay pin connections and what the Warn switch does. Do the Warn lights come with a wiring harness that has a relay socket - or did you connect wire to the relay pins individually?

A relay is like a manual switch - two pins are the contacts that open and close. The other two pins are the coil - power is applied to in order to close the contacts.

That you drained the battery is confusing because usually that means sparks or melted wires, etc. Since you did not see lights come on and I assume there are no signs of melted wires/relays - then you must of shorted through a relay coil or perhaps you have the coil connected to the lights which acted as a current limiter slowing draining the battery through the light bulbs but not enough to light them bright enough for you to notice. That 4 lead switch is confusing too.

Anyway, regardless of my confusion about the way the battery drained, the relay or switch may no longer work - look at the wiring, switch, relays, to see if they look damaged (melted?).

Relays often have a diagram on the side/bottom of them for which pins are the contacts and which are the coil.

using your diagram:

1 is 12V battery connected to one side of the relay contact

The other side of the relay contact is connected to low beam/high beam

2 is connected to ground/neg

4 with "yellow jumper" appears to be the positive side of the relay coil. This is hooked to a 12 volt supply. Relay coils draw little current - typically less than 1 amp so a 25 amp fuse is way too high - you'll melt everything before it blows. Do not use the JK low/high beam harness for supply - that runs on a special circuit and potentially causes problems. (if you are trying to run these to switch on/off with stock headlights - that is a whole different wiring)

This leaves the negative side of the relay coil. In your diagram, this is what is being used by the switch to turn the relays on and off.

Looking at the switch picture on the Warn website there are 2 buttons "power" and "mode". Without Warn instructions, I have no idea what those do. I suspect the Warn intention is "power" is where the relay gets the positive 12V (meaning your wiring for 4 and the switch is wrong because the switch switches the relay coil positive not negative) and "mode" is the hi/low switching.

Do you know what each lead from the Warm switch does? I'm thinking that is where your problem is. Do you have a multimeter so you can test the switch? I suspect the mode button is two of the lines - it changes which of them connects to positive which is a third line on the switch. The purpose of the 4th line on the switch is connect to ground so the switch leds light up - nothing to do with the light relays.
Yes, sorry, fat fingers - Warn SDB-160s. The wiring harness was complete. The two relays were pre-wired and the wiring from the switch plugs into a prewired plug in the harness so there shouldnt be anything to figure out as far as the harness and switch goes.

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post #8 of 11 Old 03-21-2010, 05:59 PM
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Quick glance and I think the relays should be grounded...

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post #9 of 11 Old 03-21-2010, 06:41 PM
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Yes, sorry, fat fingers - Warn SDB-160s. The wiring harness was complete. The two relays were pre-wired and the wiring from the switch plugs into a prewired plug in the harness so there shouldnt be anything to figure out as far as the harness and switch goes.
So you just have the 4 wires - the rest is done for you? Did they label the 4 wires? I assume the wiring connectors can only be plugged in one way to the relays and switch - so you can't put them in upside down or something?

The way the wiring diagram is drawn, the switch white is going to 12 volt supply through the yellow jumper and to connection 4. This would be the relay coils positive side.

The switch green to the relay coil negative would connect to ground through switch black when the mode button is one position and it would connect to switch dk blue when it is in the other position. This activates the appropriate relay.

I would test the connections. It would be best if you had a jumper wire with a fuse in it in case you get it wrong (assuming you don't have a voltmeter, if you do then you can measure voltage at relay terminals instead).

Disconnect the relays and switch from the harness. Connect the white line from the lights to the battery to test low beams come on and then dk blue to see if high beams come on. This would confirm the lights are OK.

If that works then connect the relays but not the switch. Take the green wire and touch it to ground - the relay should click on. Do the same for dark blue.

If this works then it has to be the switch. Do the switch led lights come on?

Quote:
Originally Posted by zjr View Post
Quick glance and I think the relays should be grounded...
It appears that his switch turns the ground on for the relays - but difficult to tell.

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Last edited by chasinternet; 03-21-2010 at 06:43 PM.
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-22-2010, 10:42 AM
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Here's a beauty done up by Dancing Dan. Great place to start.

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25168


Thanks for the street cred

How the hell did I become the guru on lighting though? I'm just a schmuck who stumbled and bumbled his way into getting his lights working!



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post #11 of 11 Old 03-22-2010, 11:20 AM
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run all neg to the batt neg and screw the HI beam lead (#4 in your picture)... just run that to the batt pos side and viola... just went through this same thing with my IPFs

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