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post #1 of 26 Old 06-27-2009, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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JK WIRING FOR BEGINNERS

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post #2 of 26 Old 03-14-2010, 04:49 PM
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This has been very helpful to me as I do some light wireing. Thanks

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post #3 of 26 Old 03-14-2010, 06:10 PM
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I have been doing my own wiring for years using these basic techniques. I must say your wiring 101 class was very well thought out and includes some very helpful information for people just starting out. You clearly answer a lot of questions that come up A LOT, maybe should be a sticky in this area or the library.

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post #4 of 26 Old 03-14-2010, 06:11 PM
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Very nicely done!

Toss in WIRE as another section. Try to get the best you can afford. It is not much of an issue up front, but will be down the road, particularly if you are in the engine compartment, near the battery or drawing a lot of current. It doesn't hurt to oversize a little. And if possible, use tin plated copper instead of bare copper. This will help with long term corrosion issues.

Try a marine store instead of your local FLAPs for quality wire.
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post #5 of 26 Old 03-15-2010, 05:23 AM
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Let's add on and make this a sticky
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post #6 of 26 Old 03-15-2010, 09:26 AM
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Rated (5 stars), subscribed, and agreed lets make this a sticky. Great thread.
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post #7 of 26 Old 03-16-2010, 06:49 PM
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Sticky please.
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post #8 of 26 Old 03-18-2010, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nocoastfocus View Post
Sticky please.
done, please link any JKO threads you think apply with a description of what the links is and re-post any off-site info as other peoples web pages move.
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post #9 of 26 Old 03-20-2010, 08:51 PM
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post #10 of 26 Old 04-10-2010, 06:12 AM
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The only thing that's missing is how to properly connect wires together...

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post #11 of 26 Old 04-10-2010, 08:43 AM
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http://www.the12volt.com/

if you are unfimiliar with wiring this site has all the info tips and tricks that you could think of.

Also if you have the factory alarm you can take the wire from the hood pin, extend it and tap it into the purple wire right inside the driver side dash end piece that pops off so if the hood is opened the alarm will go off as it should have been done from the factory.

You can also run a pair of 55watt back up lights off the factory reverse light wire with no I'll effects. Been running mine for over a year and no issue and tested the draw with a volt meter and it didn't cause a drain surge.

As for wire connections, solder, electric grease, heat shrink tubing or the paint on tape stuff and I always go back and wrap with electrical tape for added protection. I installed custom and show stereo and alarm through my 20's and am very OCD so use your imagination.

When soldering it is just like brazing copper so you don't get a cold joint that corrodes:

strip the wire and then hold a wire in each hand and then twist them together where it look like the wire just had the insulation cut off and there is no need to wrap the wire over the insulation but no biggie if you do, don't forget to put heatshrink on before you twist them.

Let the solder iron get hot, place the tip against ( I like under) the twisted wire and occasionally touch the solder to the WIRE not the tip, when the wire is hot enough it will literally suck the solder into the wire and it will not take much, after it is all silver I will then slide the tip back and fourth to make sure it is good to go.

Wait for it to cool then apply grease if you want, just a little bit, then slide the heatshrink over and heat it. If it's not cool the end of the hs will srink and you can't get it over the wire.

Scotch locks and t-taps suck as they end up breaking the wire and the wiring in the jk is too thin as it is, butt or crimp connectors are great for quick fix but never make the long haul in moist or humid conditions unless you crimp then solder. I know many will argue this and give testimonials but at well over 2000 alarm installs and warranty work I can tell you what will last and what will not and I am the type when I install something I never want to have to go back and f... Tinker with it.

If I can ever help please let me know.
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post #12 of 26 Old 04-10-2010, 10:07 AM
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Thanks for that last post.... Helped me a lot!!!!!

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post #13 of 26 Old 04-10-2010, 10:20 AM
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No problem we all have to learn somewhere!
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post #14 of 26 Old 04-10-2010, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlegRock View Post
The only thing that's missing is how to properly connect wires together...
Ask and ye shall receive. Great addition Rob!



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post #15 of 26 Old 05-15-2010, 01:42 AM
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That's a very nice intro. Allow me to add some info tasty bacon for you.
Bacon is delicious. It is truly the candy of meat. No fair and loving god
would ever hand down a law that deprived mankind of this delicious pork
product.

I'm a JKO Reject

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post #16 of 26 Old 12-17-2010, 09:44 AM
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In regards to the illustration above, how would someone wire driving lights to turn off when the brights are activated. Great write up, this has been very helpful.
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post #17 of 26 Old 01-06-2011, 06:45 AM
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Can anyone explain further into different switches and thier installation. Maybe some info on momentary, SPDT, DPDT, and the like?

Doug
Valparaiso, IN

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post #18 of 26 Old 01-06-2011, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_natural78 View Post
Can anyone explain further into different switches and thier installation. Maybe some info on momentary, SPDT, DPDT, and the like?
With switches, that refers to Single Pull Double Throw or Double Pull Double Throw. It is all about the internals of how the switch works, and how the contacts are set up on the back.
From Wiki (I took out a lot of garbage):
Quote:
...
In the simplest case, a switch has two conductive pieces, often metal, called contacts that touch to complete (make) a circuit, and separate to open (break) the circuit.
...
A pair of contacts is said to be "closed" when current can flow from one to the other. When the contacts are separated by an insulating air gap, they are said to be "open", and no current can flow between them at normal voltages.
Switches are classified according to the arrangement of their contacts in electronics. Electricians installing building wiring use different nomenclature, such as "one-way", "two-way", "three-way" and "four-way" switches, which have different meanings in North American and British cultural regions as described in the table below.
In a push-button type switch, in which the contacts remain in one state unless actuated, the contacts can either be normally open (abbreviated "n.o." or "no") until closed by operation of the switch, or normally closed ("n.c. or "nc") and opened by the switch action. A switch with both types of contact is called a changeover switch. These may be "make-before-break" which momentarily connect both circuits, or may be "break-before-make" which interrupts one circuit before closing the other.
The terms pole and throw are also used to describe switch contact variations. The number of "poles" is the number of separate circuits which are controlled by a switch. For example, a "2-pole" switch has two separate identical sets of contacts controlled by the same knob. The number of "throws" is the number of separate positions that the switch can adopt. A single-throw switch has one pair of contacts that can either be closed or open. A double-throw switch has a contact that can be connected to either of two other contacts, a triple-throw has a contact which can be connected to one of three other contacts, etc.[4]
These terms give rise to abbreviations for the types of switch which are used in the electronics industry such as "single-pole, single-throw" (SPST) (the simplest type, "on or off") or "single-pole, double-throw" (SPDT), connecting either of two terminals to the common terminal. In electrical power wiring (i.e. House and building wiring by electricians) names generally involving the suffixed word "-way" are used; however, these terms differ between British and American English and the terms two way and three way are used in both with different meanings.

SPST Single pole, single throw
An example is a light switch.

SPDT Single pole, double throw
A simple changeover switch: C (COM, Common) is connected to L1 or to L2.
SPCO

DPST Double pole, single throw
Equivalent to two SPST switches controlled by a single mechanism

DPDT Double pole, double throw
Equivalent to two SPDT switches controlled by a single mechanism: A is connected to B and D to E, or A is connected to C and D to F.

01111001011011110111010100100000011011000110111101 11001101110100001000000111010001101000011001010010 000001100111011000010110110101100101

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post #19 of 26 Old 02-11-2011, 10:17 PM
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Great sticky!

I'm a complete retard when it comes to electrical wiring. I have a multimeter but I don't even know how to use it properly.

Question 1 - For signal light wires, how do you identify the purpose of each wire (without diagrams)?

Example - The front turning signal light is composed of 3 wires. I'm guessing 1 is the ground, 1 is the power for the signal light (to make it flash) and the remaining is the power for running lights (stays lit when you turn your lights on).

Question 2 - Based on the above signal light (and the wires being identified), if I wanted to hook it up to a new light (like the picture below) and it only had 2 wires (I'm guessing 1 positive & 1 ground) does this mean that I the new light can only have the function of either (a) signal (flashing) or (b) as a running light, but not both?

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Last edited by BryGuy; 02-11-2011 at 10:23 PM.
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post #20 of 26 Old 02-12-2011, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BryGuy View Post
Great sticky!

I'm a complete retard when it comes to electrical wiring. I have a multimeter but I don't even know how to use it properly.

Question 1 - For signal light wires, how do you identify the purpose of each wire (without diagrams)?

Example - The front turning signal light is composed of 3 wires. I'm guessing 1 is the ground, 1 is the power for the signal light (to make it flash) and the remaining is the power for running lights (stays lit when you turn your lights on).

Question 2 - Based on the above signal light (and the wires being identified), if I wanted to hook it up to a new light (like the picture below) and it only had 2 wires (I'm guessing 1 positive & 1 ground) does this mean that I the new light can only have the function of either (a) signal (flashing) or (b) as a running light, but not both?
This is a pretty good write up that details a lot of the wiring issues you may run into if you're working on the blinkers/marker lights.

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showth...ht=Blinker+Mod



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post #21 of 26 Old 06-17-2011, 09:05 PM
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Ive got one question, I bought a bumper with factory fog lights w/o the wiring plugs. I had to get them from dealer but don't know on the 2 pins on the lite bulb which is hot and which is ground. The plugs kit Mopar#1-05102410AA came with 4 wires w/pins, 2 green, 2 white, 2 blue..


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post #22 of 26 Old 07-24-2011, 12:51 AM
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From the original post:
"FUSES:
If you plan on running three 100W lights on one circuit, you will need protection rated to at least 25Amps in the form of a fuse rated at or below 25Amps."

If the circuit has to carry 25 amps to run the three lights, the fuse has to be greater than 25 amps.

So, to support a 25 amp load, you would need wires that can carry more than 25 amps over the distance of the run, and a fuse rated below what the wires can safely carry, but still more than the 25 amps for the lights.
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post #23 of 26 Old 06-20-2012, 06:02 PM
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Just got a pm sayin one of my links busted. I'll take a look in the mornin.



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post #24 of 26 Old 12-11-2012, 05:39 AM
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I highly recommend these for easy wire splicing and soldering. Just make sure your wires are clean when you insert them into the butt-connector prior to heating. They also have them with adhesive in the ends of them.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#butt-connectors/=kjng34
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post #25 of 26 Old 06-19-2013, 10:54 AM
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So by edit you mean taking someone elses post with instructions then re-posting as your own? Wouldn't that be plagiarism?

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