Rubicon Locker Bypass - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 22 Old 02-10-2015, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Rubicon Locker Bypass

is there anyway to use a Rubicon's stock lockers in 4hi while keeping the factory locker switch? I have seen bypass threads on here but they utilize aftermarket switches. i'm really not wanting to spend money on an aftermarket toggle switch panel and/or add more switches. I would like to be able to keep using my factory locker switch while being able to use my lockers in 4hi. i'm in the process of switching my gears to 5.38's and with my Rubicon's 4:1 transfer case, i'm afraid my 4lo will not be used very often due to the gearing now being too low and I will be using 4hi more.

I wheel mostly in sand and mud so the super low crawling that the 4lo would provide would be kind of useless for me. right now it's not bad with my stock 4.10 gears but I needed to switch my gear ratio for better on road handling with my 37" tires.

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
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post #2 of 22 Old 02-10-2015, 08:04 PM
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The short answer is no. The factory switches do not actually control the lockers, they just tell the computer that you would like to have them on. A bunch of other factors come into play. The computer checks to see if you're in 4 wheel drive high or low, and if your speed is below a certain speed. Then, and only then, will it send power to the locker to engage.

You *might* be able to trick the computer into thinking you are in 4 low, but I suspect the lockers would disengage automatically when the speed threshold is hit. I'm not sure anyone has been able to trick the computer into thinking it's in 4 low, but it might be remotely possible, if the transfer case position sensor is a simple ground circuit and not some freaky CANBUS weirdness.

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post #3 of 22 Old 02-10-2015, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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then how much of a PITA is it to just do the bypass and add new switches? by going this route, will it mess up anything over time in my Jeep? I have a SC Flashpaq that will allow me to run my lockers in 4hi BUT I have to keep it plugged in to do so. I find this ridiculous in that the programmer or connection port will just get damaged over a short time period by doing this. it would only be a matter of time before it gets bumped and damaged while plugged in and driving.

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post #4 of 22 Old 02-11-2015, 06:08 AM
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I just ran a 2 separate switchs to the ground signal of each the lockers relay it seems to work just fine in my 2011 rubi i can lock just the rear even in 2 wheel if i want.

Last edited by Moose660; 02-11-2015 at 06:11 AM.
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post #5 of 22 Old 02-13-2015, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moose660 View Post
I just ran a 2 separate switchs to the ground signal of each the lockers relay it seems to work just fine in my 2011 rubi i can lock just the rear even in 2 wheel if i want.
will your lockers unlock at a certain speed or does this bypass that too? locking the rear in 2wd would definitely be a cool feature to have. what do your dashboard locker indicator lights do when you activate your lockers with your new switches?

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's

Last edited by CamoCop; 02-13-2015 at 06:01 PM.
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post #6 of 22 Old 02-13-2015, 06:56 PM
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If you bypass the factory switch you can use it in 2wd it will not unlock until you flip the switch back. It bypasses all computer bs. When you have it locked. The locker icons will flash telling you their locked they won't light up cause the computer is trying to figure out what's going on lol so they flash.

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post #7 of 22 Old 02-13-2015, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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so instead of a solid locker light on your dash that indicates a locked locker, you will now have a flashing locker light. which by the stock configuration meant your locker switch was activated but your lockers are not locked?

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
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post #8 of 22 Old 02-13-2015, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamoCop View Post
so instead of a solid locker light on your dash that indicates a locked locker, you will now have a flashing locker light. which by the stock configuration meant your locker switch was activated but your lockers are not locked?
The flashing locker light just means the locker is in a different position than the computer thinks it should be.
When you throw the bypass switch to lock it, the computer sees that it's locked, but a request to lock has not been received by the computer.

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Last edited by ronjenx; 02-13-2015 at 09:14 PM.
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post #9 of 22 Old 02-13-2015, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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so which is the easiest most reliable way to run this set up? I guess I will look for a couple toggle switches and some wire.

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- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
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post #10 of 22 Old 02-13-2015, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
The flashing locker light just means the locker is in a different position than the computer thinks it should be.
When you throw the bypass switch to lock it, the computer sees that it's locked, but a request to lock has not been received by the computer.
so short and sweet...when this bypass is ran, you will know your lockers are engaged when your dash locker lights flash. when they are not engaged, you will not see any locker lights on your dash?

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- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
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post #11 of 22 Old 02-13-2015, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by CamoCop View Post
so short and sweet...when this bypass is ran, you will know your lockers are engaged when your dash locker lights flash. when they are not engaged, you will not see any locker lights on your dash?
That is what people have been reporting.

2008 Unlimited Rubicon Automatic
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post #12 of 22 Old 02-13-2015, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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which switch panel/switches is everyone running for their bypass? I was originally thinking of just buying 2 toggles and mounting them somewhere in the Jeep. then I got to thinking I will probably run some off-road lighting in the future so I might as well get a panel that will hold multiple switches. I have heard some out there have significant fitment issues even though their panel was designed for specific models. I also don't want to spend a fortune.

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post #13 of 22 Old 02-15-2015, 08:48 AM
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I made my own switch console put it between the sun visors. Just like the spod

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post #14 of 22 Old 02-15-2015, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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I've got my CB mounted there. I think i'm just going to buy me a couple toggles and put them next to my factory switch. they will be out of the way there and won't cost a whole lot.

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post #15 of 22 Old 02-15-2015, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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I've been reading the other threads on this modification and i'm trying to understand how this actually works. if you are just tapping into that wire and running a ground to a toggle, that wire is still connected like the factory has it. so how does this bypass the computer control? is the toggle just creating a "short" which allows the locker to be engaged manually?

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post #16 of 22 Old 02-15-2015, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamoCop View Post
I've been reading the other threads on this modification and i'm trying to understand how this actually works. if you are just tapping into that wire and running a ground to a toggle, that wire is still connected like the factory has it. so how does this bypass the computer control? is the toggle just creating a "short" which allows the locker to be engaged manually?
The wire in question goes back to the TIPM, where it gets connected to ground when the computer throws an internal solid state switch.
What this mod does is, it grounds the wire through a mechanical switch in the cab. The relay coil doesn't care how it gets grounded.

2008 Unlimited Rubicon Automatic
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post #17 of 22 Old 02-15-2015, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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oh ok. thanks for the explanation.

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post #18 of 22 Old 02-25-2015, 11:41 AM
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FWIW I'm running 5.38's and 37's on my Rubicon and still use 4low all the time. I don't find the gearing to be an issue with the automatic off road. On the road is another matter, its still a gutless pig but now its geared so low I can't go as fast in the respective gears. It drove better with 4.10's and 35's because I could just hold 3rd gear on the interstate and 2nd gear in the mountains.

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post #19 of 22 Old 02-25-2015, 09:35 PM
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I bought the cool basic switches with the little red flipper covers. I plan on mounting them to the left of the steering column in a vertical line. Top for front and bottom for rear.
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post #20 of 22 Old 02-27-2015, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
FWIW I'm running 5.38's and 37's on my Rubicon and still use 4low all the time. I don't find the gearing to be an issue with the automatic off road. On the road is another matter, its still a gutless pig but now its geared so low I can't go as fast in the respective gears. It drove better with 4.10's and 35's because I could just hold 3rd gear on the interstate and 2nd gear in the mountains.
the problem I run into is 90% of my off-roading is in the mud. while in the mud you want lots of tire spin for your tires to clean and bite. two things are happening when you do this. 1.) my lockers are disengaging because when my tires are spinning, they are spinning at over 18 mph and 2.) my RPM's are getting too high too fast with those 5.38 gears coupled with the Rubicons 4:1 gear reduction transfer case. I can solve problem 1 by running the bypass switch. the only way problem 2 can be solved is by being lighter on the skinny pedal which will reduce my tire spin. unless I run 4hi which will keep my RPM's from getting too high too quickly but I can't use my lockers in 4hi with the factory set up. so the locker bypass will solve this issue as well.

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post #21 of 22 Old 02-27-2015, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stangbuster View Post
I bought the cool basic switches with the little red flipper covers. I plan on mounting them to the left of the steering column in a vertical line. Top for front and bottom for rear.
I ended up ordering that Daystar panel that goes in front of the shifter and a couple rocker switches that are pre labeled for my front and rear lockers. this way when I get to adding my lighting I can just buy rocker switches and I already have a place to put them.

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- 5.38 Yukon gears
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post #22 of 22 Old 03-09-2015, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Saturday I completed my locker bypass and so far it works flawlessly. due to there not being much wire to work with under the locker relays, I just use those "quick splice" wire clamps. I know this isn't as good as stripping the wire and soldering but I couldn't get to the wires very easily due to their location, limited amount of exposed wires and my big ass hands.

I was able to test it out yesterday at SOAR (Southern Off-road Adventure Rally) on the modified course and they worked great. I was able to run the stock course in 2wd with just my rear locker engaged and had no issues. this is probably the best mod I have done to date!

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- 5.38 Yukon gears
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