Sub & Amp with stock head unit - write up - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 34 Old 02-28-2010, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Sub & Amp with stock head unit - write up

**This is actually kind of old, but saw the other poster's thing here and thought this might help some people**

Write Up: Amp + Sub with Factory Stereo

I installed an amp and sub today and connected it to my standard factory radio. I do not have the Infinity sound system just to be ultra clear. I used a PAC SNI-15 to wire my amp up and connected it to the speaker wires on the radio harness right behind the head unit.

Here's a couple of things you might find handy during your install. Add a straightened hanger to the plan!



Start out by opening your hood and taking the positive battery terminal off so that you're dealing with a dead vehicle. I like to lay my hood back against the windshield so I have plenty of room.

Next come back into the Jeep and take out your stock radio. You can do this by following these steps:

1. Use a medium sized flat head screw driver on the forward most corners of the top of the dash. This panel will pop up and then slide forward and off. Its simple, just use some force.

2. Use your screwdriver again on the lower most panel that on 07/08 is just blank on X models. 09/10 has a net thingy here. Pry it from the top and it will pop out with a little force.

3. Use a small socket (sorry I didn't check size, maybe a 6mm?) and remove the four little screws. Two in the top, two in the bottom. This will free up the rest of the panel that holds all of your A/C controls ect. Pull it. Just do it. Keep pulling on it. Its gonna pop off but you're gonna have to pull on it.

*NOTE* I did not remove this completely, I just got it out of the way enough to get my head unit free.

4. Use your small socket again and remove the four screws holding your head unit in place.

Once you have all of this done you'll want to reach behind the head unit and remove the PIN connector. Just leave the Sirius and FM antenna connected and set the radio on the dash to the right, over the glove box. You'll see the radio here and the harness you're going to be playing with.



Now take the PIN connector and take notice how it is routed back behind the metal in the picture below. You're going to want to pull it behind there and bring it out in front of that metal bar. This is going to give you more room to work with the wiring. I've included an awkward picture trying to show you what I'm talking about.



The wiring is covered with a black fabric and you'll need to cut the tape off of it so that you can access the wires. You'll find more tape holding the wires together beneath that which you'll also want to remove. This stuff is STICKY so get a damp towel out so you're not sticking to everything.

CONNECT THE PAC OR LINE LEVEL CONVERTER:

I'm gonna make this REEEAL easy for all of you guys so you don't have to go decipher a PIN plan out or anything like that. K? K.

Go get into your Jeep and get comfy, you're gonna be here for a few minutes.

I purchased my connectors at Radio Shack (who was hiring, now sells T-Mobile, and connectors were free with purchase of a flat screen...) for $1.99.




You're going to use the following wires for this (They are twisted together, you'll have to untape them and play with them to get some room for your connectors.) These are the wires you're going to use no matter what model your level converter is....

RIGHT FRONT speaker wires:
+ (positive) Dark Green with a Violet Stripe
- (negative) Dark Green with a Yellow Stripe

LEFT FRONT speaker wires:
+ (positive) Gray with Violet Stripe
- (negative) Gray with Yellow Stripe

This is a photo of ALL of the wires on the factory PIN harness:


These are the wires you're going to use:



PAC w/connector:


Last edited by MarcusRTJ; 02-28-2010 at 10:03 PM.
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post #2 of 34 Old 02-28-2010, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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You're probably going to look at the connectors and try to figure out how you're going to get both wires stuck in there and smashed at the same time. Well...put the wire on your PAC into the side that has a stop and smash it down and then pry it back open. Wa'la! Your wire is stuck in the connector and you can now work with getting the wire on the harness in there. Here's an image:



Here is the PAC all wired up and ready for hiding:



Notice how I pushed the PAC off to the left side of the head unit's house and pulled the PIN connector back around that metal piece. Thats is a little frustrating because it doesn't want to just pop back around there with those connectors piled on it. Be patient.

Here it is going around the "pole".



Here's how you should look when its done. There is only so much you can do to beautify those connectors and the factory harness but knowing that its easily reversible is worth knowing its ugly.



Once you have this done you're on the road to bass. The rest of the install is a piece of cake and that part wasn't even that bad!

RUN THE POWER WIRE:

You're going to want to take your power wire out and go to the front of your Jeep. If your hood is laid back against the windshield you'll have plenty of room to dance a jig in the engine bay. Look on the passenger side of the firewall, all the way in the corner, then look past the firewall and you'll see a big blob of expansion foam. Now go back inside and with your passenger door open use that screwdriver and pop off the side of the dash. Once again, it's going to pop right off!

Here you'll see a small bit of the expansion foam, about the size of a quarter. Here you'll see my stunt double pointing it out:

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post #3 of 34 Old 02-28-2010, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Take your power wire and that wire clothes hanger that you've bent out straight. Use a little tape and connect the power wire to the hanger and push it through from inside to out (engine bay). Make sure you leave enough slack in the engine bay to add your in-line fuse and have room to connect it to the battery and tidy things up later.



Poke em' thru:



This is the wrong side but you get the picture...LOL (rookie mistake)





Put your in line fuse in place:



Make it pretty:



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post #4 of 34 Old 02-28-2010, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Now come back to the interior. Run the power wire down through the dash and get ready to yank on some more plastic. Take the door sill plastic out with some force. Its going to come out and you shouldn't break the studs. I jerked the crap out of mine during this install and everything went back together just as good as new.



You'll be able to run the wire to the post between the two doors if you're working on an Unlimited and things are going to get a little tight. Don't bother trying to run the wire back behind the seatbelt, just use something to push it under the plastic around the seatbelt and continue on. I'll leave the rest of the run to you but I ran mine under the carpet and towards the side of the back seat. Worked great. Do what you want here.


RUN YOUR RCA CABLES:

You might want to do this differently than I did but I'm happy with the way mine turned out.

Pop off the driver's side of the dash board like you did on the passenger side in the beginning.

Remember where your PAC lives now? Look through there and you'll see daylight. Get that trusty hanger out again and bend it to "hold" the RCA cable. Poke it through and grab for it with a few millimeters of your finger tips between the windshield and the dash. There's about 3/4" of room go get in there. Once you've got that you're going to feed it across and down the side of the dash and run it the same way you did your power wire. Same story over here, jerk on that stuff till it comes out.

You can see where its going here:



Its gonna come out and look like this before you tuck it in:



and run down the driver's side:

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post #5 of 34 Old 02-28-2010, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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CONNECT AND RUN YOUR REMOTE WIRE:

I used the cigarette lighter on the DRIVER'S side of the Jeep. This is a keyed power point that will only have power when your key is on. Other people spoke of using the "radio fuse" in the fuse box. I didn't see anything labeled "radio" in there even though I had decided to use the cigarette lighter. Curiosity got the best of me.

Remember how your dash is in shambles? Return to the driver's seat.

If you grasp the back of the cigarette lighter you can unclip it and get yourself some more room to work with.

There are two wires back there. A black one and a blue one with a pink stripe. The pink stripe is your golden girl. Use another connector here and attach your remote wire.



I chose to run my remote wire down into the side of the console and up towards the firewall. I ran it behind the carpet in front of the pedals and down the side of the Jeep where I ran the RCAs. After I did it I thought I was going to possibly get noise but it didn't happen. All is good.

GROUND WIRE:

Its been stated that there is a post by the front cupholder in the center console that you can ground your amp to if you're mounting it beneath your driver's seat.

I mounted my amp to the box so that I could just pull it out all at once. Or the theives can...LOL

So I used the back, right seat bolt to ground my amp. It worked great and there's a number of bolts back there to choose from.

I don't have a picture of the gorund wire but here's where the rest of my wires came out. The ground is over in the corner by the power wire, but its not in this photo.




ALMOST DONE!

Now you've got the hard part out of the way, the rest is really up to you. The only other advice I have for you is to make sure you don't connect the power wire to the battery until you have everything connected to the amp.

I would do a rough test run on the amp wiring just to make sure you're getting signal. I'd hate for you to get everything mounted up and realize that something is wrong and have to undo your hard work.

Here's some photos of my finished product.

I hope that you guys find this amp install, line level converter or PAC install, remote wire install, and which speaker wires to use on the factory harness write up handy and that I help at least one person.

This is my favorite mod so far out of everything. I love having some loud music capabilities again!

Party on Garth.





Nope, the add a trunk doesn't make a peep and I can shake the mirrors.


Last edited by MarcusRTJ; 02-28-2010 at 10:02 PM.
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post #6 of 34 Old 03-01-2010, 03:07 PM
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Thanks for the AWESOME write up.
I have been waiting for a write up that is detailed and has exactly which wires you hook to. I will be installing this weekend! Thanks again!!!

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post #7 of 34 Old 03-07-2010, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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Thank YOU for your appreciation mate!

RED DRAGONS! LOL

Let me know how your install goes!
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post #8 of 34 Old 03-12-2010, 05:29 PM
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Thats really cool, great details!

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post #9 of 34 Old 02-10-2011, 03:16 PM
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I know this is an old thread but I hope MarcusRTJ is still monitoring.

The AMP is powering just the SUB, right?

I see you tapped into the front R & L speaker. I assume this is for sound signal to the SUB and the AMP isn't amplifying the front speakers, right?

Thanks.

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post #10 of 34 Old 02-10-2011, 03:25 PM
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Great writeup.
Mine is dont the exact same way (great minds Eh?) except I got my speaker level from the stock sub I had from the Infinity system and didnt have to bother with the radio removial.

Nicely done.

And sniped, yeah the speaker level input is hooked to the speakers, but runs the whole frequency to the sub. You then use a low pass filter (most amps have one built in) to get the frequencies you want. I keep mine set to about 70hz

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post #11 of 34 Old 02-10-2011, 03:28 PM
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Cool. I have a non-Infinity system, which is same as the write-up. However, I'm looking to amp all 4-speakers AND install a sub.

I doubt if I can find a quality AMP small enough to fit back into the factory location (under the steering column).

I wonder if I can buy a used OEM amp and use it?

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post #12 of 34 Old 02-10-2011, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snipedu1st View Post
I know this is an old thread but I hope MarcusRTJ is still monitoring.

The AMP is powering just the SUB, right?

I see you tapped into the front R & L speaker. I assume this is for sound signal to the SUB and the AMP isn't amplifying the front speakers, right?

Thanks.
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post #13 of 34 Old 02-10-2011, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snipedu1st View Post
Cool. I have a non-Infinity system, which is same as the write-up. However, I'm looking to amp all 4-speakers AND install a sub.

I doubt if I can find a quality AMP small enough to fit back into the factory location (under the steering column).

I wonder if I can buy a used OEM amp and use it?
I believe the PDX series Alpines will fit. They are pricey though...

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post #14 of 34 Old 02-12-2011, 07:45 PM
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just wanted to say thanks for this awesome write up. I followed it to a 't' and threw in an old 10" sub and amp I had laying around and two hours later my system rocks. and I didnt have to pay anyone.

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post #15 of 34 Old 02-12-2011, 08:42 PM
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What about for infinity systems? Would I use the sub wires

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post #16 of 34 Old 02-13-2011, 12:14 AM
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I tapped into the wires where you disconnect the Infinty sub, so I didn't have to get behind the radio. There is 2 +s and 2 -s going to the sub. I also used a amp that turned on by speaker level signal instead of turn-on wire that made things even easier. Just ran a fused power cable from battery to amp in rear cubbie.

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post #17 of 34 Old 02-24-2011, 11:20 AM
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I used the Kicker amplifier upgrade for the base sound system. It mounts in the steering column and has a line out for a sub. it's speaker level to connecect to their sub kit but I didn't use thier kit. I bought a 150-2 bridgeable amp.. and bridged it, used the PAC line level converter. The converter provides remote amp control too!
I like this add a trunk idea and enclosing the amp in the sub box. Nice job!
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post #18 of 34 Old 03-02-2011, 06:23 AM
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Great Job!

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post #19 of 34 Old 05-29-2011, 07:29 AM
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for anyone looking for a good place to mount an amp (I did all 4 speakers) The back door worked great. I followed the wiring harness for the brake light, screwed it to the door. Ran all the wires under the wiring harness cover and it turned out to be a clean install that is out of the way. It's hard to find a good spot in a jeep. They wont fit under the seat and I didn't want to lose cargo area because eventually my sub will go there.
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post #20 of 34 Old 05-29-2011, 03:19 PM
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This is what I call a patient-man !!!

Stellar write up MarcusRTJ !!!!!

Wow i feel bad i don't take more pictures and do a write up. I just don't have the patients to stop while working..... PLUS your pictures were well lit for the detailed areas !!!!


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post #21 of 34 Old 08-09-2011, 07:18 AM
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I had to pull this up this morning to remind myself how I ran a few wires.

I'll bump it for our newer members.

Marcus


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post #22 of 34 Old 08-09-2011, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverCityOffroad View Post
I had to pull this up this morning to remind myself how I ran a few wires.

I'll bump it for our newer members.

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I'm not new and I appreciate the bump
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post #23 of 34 Old 08-16-2011, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chipmaker View Post
I tapped into the wires where you disconnect the Infinty sub, so I didn't have to get behind the radio. There is 2 +s and 2 -s going to the sub. I also used a amp that turned on by speaker level signal instead of turn-on wire that made things even easier. Just ran a fused power cable from battery to amp in rear cubbie.
How exactly did you tap into the stock infinity sub wires? Also, my amp has a speaker level input connection, so does this mean that I don't need to hook up the power control wire? Wasn't sure if this was the same thing that you have where power on is automatic with a speaker level signal.

The wiring on the speaker level input that came with the amp is small and very short. Should I plan on replacing via Radio Shack to get more length and perhaps heavier gauge wire?

Thanks.
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post #24 of 34 Old 09-18-2011, 05:44 PM
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I have to agree that this is a great write up. Over the weekend I installed Alpine component speakers to the front along with a Boston Accoustics amp for those speakers. I mounted the amp under the drivers seat, now looking at options for subs as I do not want to take up the rear/cargo area since I use it all the time.
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post #25 of 34 Old 07-19-2012, 08:57 PM
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I know this thread is 2 years old. But I made an account and want to thank you MarcusRTJ for doing this thread. I did a 2008 Jeep 2 15's kicker install today for one of my friends, the pics and everything made it so much easier where I should run my wires and such. Appreciate it!

-Kevin
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