Infinity Amp shutting down - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 02-12-2010, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Infinity Amp shutting down

I recently installed an alarm with the the ignition on wire from the alarm tapped into the 12v ignition on wire on the amp. I also mounted the alarm brain to the bottom of the stock infinity amp. Now the amp shuts down whenever I crank the stereo above 19 or so. I am guessing that either I have messed up a multiplex wire by tapping into the stock amp power wire, or the alarm brain being right next to the amp is causing it to get hot. The amp cooling fins are on the top and sides of the amp, so they are not affected.

Any insight before I tear into it would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 9 Old 02-12-2010, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Rednroll View Post
1st off the Infinity amp does not have an "ignition on" connection wire. It has a Battery connection that is always on. So if you're expecting something to turn on/off with that wire connection, it's not going to work like you expect.

2nd off, the infinity amp requires all the power from that particular wire to function. So you're stealing the power with the other device and it will most likely shut down when it doesn't get enough power, like when you try to turn up the volume.

Buy a volt meter and you can observe what is going on with that wire.
Will do. It may very well have been the always hot wire I was using. It has been a month or so. Thanks.
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post #3 of 9 Old 02-12-2010, 01:19 PM
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did you just splice into the power wire or did you use a relay. If not then you need a relay or your going to overload the circuit
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post #4 of 9 Old 02-12-2010, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sunburst Sahara View Post
did you just splice into the power wire or did you use a relay. If not then you need a relay or your going to overload the circuit
Spliced and soldered. I am just going to find another wire that is always hot, and stay away from the amp power.
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post #5 of 9 Old 02-12-2010, 06:27 PM
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Use the ignition wires. They are high current and you'll have all the various powers sources you need (ignition, accessory, starter, and constant 12v). In addition, there will be easy ground access in that area as well.

And as stated above, if you're at all worried about current issues, use a relay connected to an ample supply.
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post #6 of 9 Old 02-13-2010, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rbuckenmeyer View Post
Use the ignition wires. They are high current and you'll have all the various powers sources you need (ignition, accessory, starter, and constant 12v). In addition, there will be easy ground access in that area as well.

And as stated above, if you're at all worried about current issues, use a relay connected to an ample supply.
Thanks. I cannot imagine that the power to the alarm brain draws much at all. All functions that the brain triggers are running through relays. I will change the power source and see what happens.
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post #7 of 9 Old 02-13-2010, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bthibodeaux View Post
Thanks. I cannot imagine that the power to the alarm brain draws much at all. All functions that the brain triggers are running through relays. I will change the power source and see what happens.
Two things.

1. I'm not sure that the ignition switch is a high current source. I think all of the switched power there is low current and and multiplexed on the CANbus.

2. The brain is unlikely to draw much current, but when it triggers the alarm, parking lights or the door locks it WILL draw a reasonable amount of current. I'd assume that at the least the alarm and and parking lights are fed from the constant hot that goes into the brain.

Regards, Tim
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post #8 of 9 Old 02-13-2010, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Timbo2000 View Post
Two things.

1. I'm not sure that the ignition switch is a high current source. I think all of the switched power there is low current and and multiplexed on the CANbus.

2. The brain is unlikely to draw much current, but when it triggers the alarm, parking lights or the door locks it WILL draw a reasonable amount of current. I'd assume that at the least the alarm and and parking lights are fed from the constant hot that goes into the brain.

Regards, Tim
This may very well be true... and if so, do NOT use those wires for power. I haven't been under a dash for electrical work in a few years, and I know Chryslers starting going to the low current ignition wires all the way back in '00 on some of their vehicles. When you look if it's like a 18 or smaller gauge wire, it's low current. If it's 12 guage or so, then you're good to go.

With low current wires, you can still use them as triggers, ie ignition, accesory, starter kill... but don't use it as the power source. You will likely find another power source somewhere close under the dash or coming through the firewall.

As for second highlight, it is true. Your main power source on the alarm is what powers all the relays and such inside the brain, so choose that one wisely.

Edit... all ignition wires are low voltage. Do not use as a power source. I confirmed this last night.

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So I guess you're calling him a dick for pointing out something dangerous, which kinda makes you a dick for calling him out and well holy fuck, it makes me a dick for calling you a dick.

Last edited by rbuckenmeyer; 02-17-2010 at 08:37 AM. Reason: updated info
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post #9 of 9 Old 02-17-2010, 02:13 AM
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Youd be better off not to use any existing power source to power the alarm. Add a wire from the positive of your battery with an inline fuse at the battery then run the wire inside to a relay mounted right beside your alarm brain.

Then you can splice into the ignition on wire like the one on your amp, or the one on the cigar lighter style plug that is only on with the ignition. Let that wire you spliced into kick the relay on then it will let the power from the battery come through and into your alarm.

Relays are you friend with stuff like this, and they are super easy to hook up they just look a little complicated at first.



I do have a question though. If the power to the alarm goes off with the ignition doesnt that defeat the purpose of the alarm? i.e. alarm will be off when you leave the vehicle? Are you needing an allways hot wire to power the alarm when activated or do you need a wire that goes off with the ignition to activate the alarm? Im not sure on alarms, never messed with any so I dont know....

Last edited by Sunburst Sahara; 02-17-2010 at 02:18 AM.
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