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post #1 of 10 Old 10-23-2014, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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Fuse/Relay box

So I am looking at adding an accessory fuse/relay box and I found one I like but there is 2 choices and I am not really sure what the difference is. Can someone with more electrical knowledge help me out. I have asked 2 of the smartest electrical guys I know and they were stumped.
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46357...AY-2-88-MM-NO/
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46354...-2-88-MM-DUAL/
Now if I understand it the dual bus model will have 2 bus bars one for each leg of fuses. Anyone?

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1.5" X .25" wall DOM tubing Draglink with 7/8" hiem's
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post #2 of 10 Old 10-23-2014, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woomdawg View Post
So I am looking at adding an accessory fuse/relay box and I found one I like but there is 2 choices and I am not really sure what the difference is. Can someone with more electrical knowledge help me out. I have asked 2 of the smartest electrical guys I know and they were stumped.
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46357...AY-2-88-MM-NO/
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46354...-2-88-MM-DUAL/
Now if I understand it the dual bus model will have 2 bus bars one for each leg of fuses. Anyone?
Cooper # 15401-2-0-1-0 has dual bus bars, 15404-2-0-1-0 has no bus bars.
(Look at the data sheet link and the catalog page link on your linked pages.)

Offhand guess is that you want the dual bus bar model, or plan to run individual power leads to each of your fuses.
Depends on what time is worth to you - I'd pay the extra $24 to save over an hour and have a less cluttered setup.

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post #3 of 10 Old 10-30-2014, 04:09 PM
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On the 15401-2-0-1-0, half the fuses are tied to one common +12V rail and the other half to the second common +12V rail. One rail could be always-on and the other could be only on when the ignition switch is on, or they could both be always on, or both always switchede; it all depends on what you connect the rail to in terms of power.

The advantage of the dual bus is you'll save a little money and a lot of time, trouble and mess because it's all pre-wired internally. The disadvantage is that you have a max of 100A per bus. You need to be careful not to exceed that rating, and should put an appropriate fuse in-line with the connection between the PDU and power source to avoid melting/shorts/FIRE.

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post #4 of 10 Old 11-01-2014, 12:07 AM
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So this thing is sort of a quick start to the Source box of an spod?


I used a BlueSea fuse block for the accessories in the cab (cb, ham, fridge, etc..), but am looking for something to handle the external accessories that need to be ran off relays.
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post #5 of 10 Old 11-01-2014, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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So I was right. One leg I will run key on power and the other straight B+. thanks guys.

2007 unlimited X
rough country 4" lift
18" KMC Rockstars
superchips flashpaq
1 ton Offset TRE's with 1.5" X .25" wall DOM tubing Tie Rod
1.5" X .25" wall DOM tubing Draglink with 7/8" hiem's
Adam's Front Driveshaft


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post #6 of 10 Old 11-02-2014, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conejo View Post
So this thing is sort of a quick start to the Source box of an spod?

I used a BlueSea fuse block for the accessories in the cab (cb, ham, fridge, etc..), but am looking for something to handle the external accessories that need to be ran off relays.
Yes. But building a one-off isn't necessarily a cheap project. You have to buy the connector pins, wire seals, cavity seals for unused positions, relays and a special crimp tool. You then need the switches, a bezel for the switches, the switch caps and labels and the wire itself. Everything is available through Waytek Wire or OTTRAW, but there are minimum quantities for many pieces. The switches alone will run you $13-18 each, depending on style.

Then you'll have to do some electrical design work if you want to incorporate low battery cutoff.

You will save some money, and get the sense of accomplishment of doing it yourself. But it's not like you're going to build an S-Pod for half price.

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post #7 of 10 Old 11-02-2014, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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I like this idea better than spod only because of its greater expandability and flexibility. Plus like you said it will be something I created.
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post #8 of 10 Old 11-02-2014, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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You can also get the cavity plugs, pins and crimpers on Amazon.

2007 unlimited X
rough country 4" lift
18" KMC Rockstars
superchips flashpaq
1 ton Offset TRE's with 1.5" X .25" wall DOM tubing Tie Rod
1.5" X .25" wall DOM tubing Draglink with 7/8" hiem's
Adam's Front Driveshaft


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post #9 of 10 Old 11-02-2014, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BumpInTheRoad View Post
Yes. But building a one-off isn't necessarily a cheap project. You have to buy the connector pins, wire seals, cavity seals for unused positions, relays and a special crimp tool. You then need the switches, a bezel for the switches, the switch caps and labels and the wire itself. Everything is available through Waytek Wire or OTTRAW, but there are minimum quantities for many pieces. The switches alone will run you $13-18 each, depending on style.

Then you'll have to do some electrical design work if you want to incorporate low battery cutoff.

You will save some money, and get the sense of accomplishment of doing it yourself. But it's not like you're going to build an S-Pod for half price.
Oh yeah, didn't think it would be cheap or easy :-) And S-Pod is probably what I'll end up going with when I add more lights / switched accessories.
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post #10 of 10 Old 11-03-2014, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Spod is really cool

2007 unlimited X
rough country 4" lift
18" KMC Rockstars
superchips flashpaq
1 ton Offset TRE's with 1.5" X .25" wall DOM tubing Tie Rod
1.5" X .25" wall DOM tubing Draglink with 7/8" hiem's
Adam's Front Driveshaft


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